Hi guys,

I'm after some help....

I'm trying to setup my throws but am having some real problems getting the maximum throws. I am using the correct H9 arms.

The manual states:
Aileron: 3 3/4" Up / 3 5/8" Down
Elevator: 3 1/8" Up / 4 1/2" Down

I get about 2 1/2" each way on the ailerons and about the same on the elevators.

I'm using the outer most hole on the arm.

What throws are you guys using?

Thanks
Simon

The plane weighed in at about 9lb 8oz. No wheel pants or cowl on. Small amout of fuel in tank.

I ordered the inverted muffler but have to wait to put it on. new plane. Probaly will get replacement xmas time.

Yesterday the engine quit at bad spot and when I got control from my son was in a worst place. So thinging of replacing the fuse or just get the kit for replacement part. Fuse is some what fixable. But no time flying up here is almost over.

So what you say is no gas should drip out of a Conley pump? If it does is the pump broke?

Never heard of Conley pump, but as the name implies, a pump is different from a pressure system which the Cline is. The Cline uses crank case pressure off a tap you must install in the backplate. It will only feed fuel if the carb is "asking" for fuel, with the engine off, the carb can be full open & it won't feed any fuel even if the tank is still pressurized. Tank placement/fuel line runs don't matter with the Cline and invert mounted engines. I,ve used a Cline on .40 size up to OS160 without a problem.
I hope my Showtime doesnt weigh 9.5lbs, might be too much for the Moki 135 to hover on. I had it in a 8.5lb U-Can-Do and that was perfect.

I test flew my Showtime today and it is lovely.

Powered by Moki 135 and 16/8 APC prop (brand new only 4 tanks through it)

james.l.hill,
Mine weighed in at 9lb 10oz with everything on it, and believe me the Moki has tonnes of power. It will hang at half throttle with plenty of pull out.

I didn't feel at all heavy in the air either.

Man those SFG's are something else. first 2 flights were without them and I thought that it was good then, but last 2 flights I put the SFG's on and wow what a difference, its actually really hard to knife edge without being tempted to do a KE loop.

All in all, thoroughly impressed

Simon

Just about have mine finished. Hope to test fly next weekend. Hurricane kind of messed plans up for this weekend, not knowing where it was going. Mine weighs 9lbs 7oz w/Saito 150 and a mish-mash of different servos, 1600mah NimH 6V pack. I was able to get the Saito to fit in the cowl really well, with only a couple of holes for the rocker covers. Debating now on whether to open up the bottom of the cowl more for cooling.....

Hi Guys,just wondering about the wings and spar tueb in this beast.Are the 1/4" nylon bolts the only attachments holding the wings.They also mention 4/40 bolts but cant fine any reference to installation of them

The 4-40s hold the stab on. The wings are held by the two 1/4-20 nylon bolts. That's plenty of strength. There's not much outward force on the wings that would cause them to pull away from the sides. All that's needed is something to keep it from slipping.

I forgot to bring my SFG today, hence I haven't flown it with it, but even without the SFG, rolling harriers, hovering is not that bad at all (I can't say good, because I'm not good yet, but I'm sure in more capable hands, it'll be easy to do). Harriers are solid without any wingrocking (or minimal at most). flies straight and true, and snaps like a monster .

Just wondering if anybody using a ys 110 in the showtime has had to move the mount forward (shim it )Thanks for the help.

I just mounted it. No special shims or anything. Seemed to work fine.
thanks
Barry

i was using a YS 110 untill i crashed mine.. but my 110 was mounted withe the edge of the motor sqare with the edged of the end of the mount,, in other words the "ears" on the mount on the engine were flush with the tips of the mount on the plane..

Does anyone else's stock mount have a lot of flex to it? My engine is mounted at the end of the mount it has a lot of up and down flex when you move the spinner up and down. Everything is tight so I figure the mount is flexing.

JVB,

Yes, I too feel the stock mount has a bit of flex to it.
I have a YS 1.10 in mine.
APC 16X6 on 30% Coolpower Heli Fuel.
9600 RPM peak and richened the high end needle to 5390.
This is where the rpm's held steady with out droppng off at all.

Ran the engine and flew it for the first time today.
Overall, it will be a good airplane.
Just needs some trim work and some engine tuning on the low end.
I used the pull pull setup. I don't have a spinner on it yet. Plan to get a Tru-Turn for it I guess.
It is just a little noseheavy. I have the battery and reciever mounted right behind the wingtube.
The fuel tank is mounted right in front of the wingtube.
I will have to move my battery back some, especially when I put that aluminum Tru-Turn on there.

Put the SFG's on it and really makes the knife-edge stuff easy.
The one cracked in flight though so I have do a small fix to it. Just some CA I think.

Anyone using a JR 10X tranny?
If so, please E-mail me your settings.
I would like to compare to mine.


Oh, I got one of those new JR Synthesized receviers and transmitter modules so now I can fly whenever.
No more waiting for my frequency !

Barry Finck
Enola, PA

I am running an inverted OS91FX with a Slimline inverted pitts muffler. On the first flight, the engine ran fine on the ground, but after a couple of minutes it lost power and wasn't running well. Second flight, same thing. Cleaned all the lines and carb and put the engine a stand and it ran great. Back in the plane, same result. Decided to fly once with the cowl off. It ran well the entire flight. Cowl back on, it ran ok for a couple of minutes then loss of power, etc. I believe I have an overheating problem. Anyone running a similar combination have an overheating problem? The in-cowl pitts muffler doesn't help the situation. Thanks.

Ok i was gonna be running with a Saito 150, but about page 12 or 13 i think, there were 2 guys one with a saito 120 and the other with the 150, both were saying they couldny get the muffler to clear the firewall.
Did anybody figure out an easy way to remedy this ??? I really dont want to hassle with making holes and filling them with Fiberglass [&o]
Any helpfull advise on the matter would be greatly appreciated [8D]

The balsa between the stringers have no structural purposes and can be cut. That's what I did, and I just laid some balsa on it and epoxy it to make another floor.

You guys that are using ys 110's, did you mount inverted or sideways? I haven't gotten to that stage yet, but thought i'd ask.

Thanks.

-Alan

I mounted mine inverted. Be sure and measure, mine ended up right at the very end of the mount. Works fine though.
Thanks
Barry

Hey all
Anyone looking for a YS 110? I was just at one of the local hobby shops and he has 4 in stock. They are priced about $50 more then Central hobbies but I just picked up one for $350.00 The $23 over Central I just consider it the cost it would take to ship a motor up from the lower 48. If you don't want to wait until late fall early winter for a 110, let me know and I will get you the hobby shop info.

Alan,

I mounted my YS 1.10 inverted too. The engine mount beams are almost even with the end of the engine mounts.
I am using an APC 16X6 prop and found that it tends to pull to the left on a straight vertical upline.
So, I brought it home and put a washer between the firewall and engine mount in order to give it some right thrust to help correct this.
But I have not flown it since I mad this adjustment.

Barry Finck

I added a washer to the left side of mine to add RH thrust as well. I'd forgotton about that. Made it fly a little better. And hover easier.
Thanks
Barry

Thanks Barry & Barry. Inverted it is then. Should help the lateral balance too. I'll probably be using a 17x4w or 16.5x5. I've used the 17.x4w on my funtana 90 & it's great. Haven't tried the 16.5x5 though. 16x6 flew it a little to fast for my style. May be a different story on this plane though. Thanks for the tip on right thrust, I'll probably go ahead and add it. My other .90 size planes have needed it as well.

I'm curious if any has tried some home made SFG's on an Extra or Cap - or something similar to see what effect it has. There was a fun fly plane that was a around about 12 years ago. It came about about the time the original "yard dart" made it's appearance. This plane, however, had a box fuselage, a REALLY thick wing, wing was high mounted, and the wing was swept back about 10 degrees. The plane looked like a classic stick, but with a thick swept wing... I'm thinking the plane was called a "blue max", but I could be completely wrong with that.

ANYWAY... this plane had wing tip plates. The plates were basically oversized wing ribs... maybe about a quarter inch bigger than the wing ribs all the way around. The plates were supposed to help with low speed performance.

I'm thinking... why not install some blind nuts in the outboard wing rib of an extra, and attach some SFG's to the wing tips and see what happens. Or... install some hard wood blocks in the wings, and then use some small aluminum angle extrusion to temporarily install some SFG's to the middle of the wing on the Extra or a Cap 232.

It would be in interesting experiment.

Has anyone tried this?

I've got two of the old Goldberg Extras and one Sukhoi sitting in the box in my garage. One of these kits will be next on the list to build (I've had four Extras during the past 12 years)... but it's going to be November before I have time to start building one.

-Doug Brindle

For all the YS engines guys,
Do you have any vibration problems ?
It's the first time I use YS and I have a lot of vibrations (in low and mid range).
Eran

Did you balance the prop ? (we use SAITO and a small imbalance couses vibrations)