raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Tom, I used GP Standard Nylon pinned hinges(first time), they looked small, but there working
great so far.. I also used them on the "Do", Their a whole lot better than C. A. hinges IMO.. Really
not much more work, should be a lot stronger?? and the move freely! Was going with the Robart's
but did not like having just one barb in the bulsa... And I did not want to create more work....

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

JPal101.... Heck... I tried to get a free engine....... Didn't work... Almost didn't get my decals
But as I was school'd.... Ya gotta try

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Raideron

You must be in sales I am. and as the old addage goes "you cant hit the ball if you dont swing the bat"

RoughLandin

You need a Y-harness reverser there are two types of Y-harnesses, some uses require the same direction movement like large ailerons. On the Showtime elevators you will need the reverser version if your radio does not have enough channels. I used this one on my ST: http://www.electrodynam.com/cgi-loca...html?E+scstore

Note: I had some glitching with Expert Electronics brand reverser.

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

From what I've read, it seems that the ys 110 has more than enough power. Is this what people feel? Does it pull with authority out of hover? And it seems comparable to a saito 125. right now I have a ys 91 that barely pulls out of a hover and the 5% gain in power the description of the 110 says doesn't seem like a lot. just want to make sure because before I buy one.

I also had a problem with snapping in tight pull ups. I found some play in the wing tube and seating of the wing. If the leading edge of the wing was pushed on, it moved. I put dowels into the wingtips into the fusealage and also painted the tube where it fits in the fuse. This didn't fix the snap problem, but made the plane track even better. what already seemed good, just got better making the plane feel more solid and responsive.

wings19

I recently got my Showtime finished and I am running a Saito 150 in it. Mounted up with no problems using the stock blind nuts, I had to shave the mount a little to fit the crank case but no big deal and a small notch in the firewall for the muffler in which i put a block and shaped it out so it is still solid. I have Hitec 5625 digital and a 5645 digital for rudder with a 2700 mAh NiMH. I put the rudder servo in the tail and the receiver sits next to the throttle servo with the batter right behind the wing tube on the CG. Awsome engine for 3D, looks and sounds cool and all the power you could ever need, it will yank right out of a hover without hesitation! Walls are straight, wing rock is minimal until established in a harrier then it goes away, parachutes are smooth with no rock.

Banche

Just got back from out of state. I was able to work on this plane for about 2 hours on the 4th and I just got finished mounting the engine this morning. This plane is really sharp looking. Everything was in perfect condition when I got it, just a few wrinkles on the covering.

There was only one problem. When it arrived it was missing 4 of the nuts that secure to the controle horn bolts. The plane was supposed to come with 6 of them but it only came with 2 so I did the ailerons. Home Depo didnt have any bolts that would work so I just ordered some from Horizon, $10.

This is going to be a real easy build but.....

Got one question for you all:

Are there any pictures of the cowl cut-out for a saito 100???? It would be a nice starting point in helping me see where it needs to be cut. The instruction manual's way is nice but I personally think it is just easier to cut and see if it fits, then cut some more and see if it fits again.

I mounted the engine as far foreward as I could, I thought it would help with the CG, it will still fit in the cowl though.

I know its underpowered, thats why I bought that DA 50 in the picture there, If I dont like the saito I will just swap them!

I am going to mount the fuel tank back up against the with tube. I dont know where the battery needs to go to give it the correct CG but I hope it can mount on that mounting piece of wood for the original fuel tank.

I will try to get some pictures of it flying this thursday, atleast thats when I plane to fly it.

Best of luck with yours....

-John-

Banche

The pictures are huge on the computer but for some reason it downsizes them when I upload um, oh well.

Banche

some more.

Banche

Here's a good view of the workshop.......

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

the reason for two nuts is all the bolts are epoxied in except for the rudder which uses the two nuts. one for pull push and two for pull pull

RoughLandin

Nate1001,
This has been addressed many times on this forum, snapping can occur on any plane even on an $8k 44% plane if too much elevator is used in combination with heavy thumbs resulting in a stall. Dial your low rates WAY back to pattern type deflection and you will be amazed at how well this plane flies. At the very least use some expo to smooth out your input. I fly mine 90% of the time on low rates that are 32% of the recommended high rates and have never experienced snapping at any attitude or speed. High rates offer amazing response on any plane at the expense of precision, because things happen so quickly on high rates as third person pilots (not inside the plane) we do not have enough time to recognize and counter and issue before it is too late or noticeable.
All planes I have flown but especially pattern or a pattern styled planes like the ST fly very true and emphasize any and all pilot errors. Chances are you are leaning ever so slightly on the aileron due to how you are holding your controller. Try to adjust your grip on the controller or use a neck strap. This is the very reason top pattern pilots use those goofy looking controller trays, to eliminate the thumb’s limited arced range of motion. [8D]
This is not intended as a flame I just thought I would point out pilot error as the most common cause of perceived poor flight performance.

Banche,
Save the DA50 for a plane that needs the power there are so many great 3D power combos available for this bird that it would be a waste of an engine and certainly your time to shoe-horn something that big into a 90 size plane. It's always up to you but whats the advantage to having that much wingload. Mine will torque roll at 1/3 throttle with the OS 120AX... I just don't see the point of hovering at idle speed. But again there are always those that want to; why?, "Because they can"

Banche

YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING, BUT YOU ARNT, THATS HILARIOUS, YOU ACTUALLY THINK I AM SERIOUS???!!!!??? PUTTING A DA ON THIS PLANE, WHO WOULD BE DUMB ENOUGH TO TRY $500 ON THAT. [X(]

OH WELL I AM JOKING!

Oh and well I don't intend to flame you rough landing but I am sure pilot skill has nothing to do with those stalls, its obvious that your inexperience in 3d flying the showtime has led to your misconception of its characteristics, airframes have shortcomings and maybe people with smaller engines don't have any thrust of air coming over their elevators when they are in a certain angle of attack with their plane, and maybe the airframe causes a stall, not the pilot, who after flying many planes the way he has been flying his showtime is not ready for this abrupt stall.

I cant wait to go out tomorrow and figure out if I can get mine to stall like that, why don't you try and then you might have a more informative opinion.

On another note,

Guess reading the manual would of helped me there on those control horns.

Even so, some of the bolts don't go in all the way unless given the pressure of that nut to pull it all the way into the hole. Oh well I think I am still going to use the stuff I ordered.


Why does everyone hate the tail wheel so much.

The steel or aluminum rod, whatever the thing is that the well attaches to bends a little bit and the spring method sucks but other than that its pretty good. I love the whole carbon bracket thing and the wheel is big and soft.

Is it really that much of a problem getting off the ground on take off. All I do on take off is punch full throttle and hold full back elevator, does it really make a difference if the wing are level to the ground or not.

I imagine it would help on landing to have the wheels in a level plane with the wings.

Banche

I just cut the cowl for my saito so I guess that takes care of my question, had nothing else to do, it wasnt that hard.

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

I know any plane can snap, but this is on low rates. I also had other people try it and it happens to them too. And everyone who watches it do it doesn't think its too much throw. its more of a roll then a sudden snap. I ve try adjusting throws on elevator and checked the incidence. A friend who flies giant scale had this problem and said it was his wing flexing which he found out when it broke. I checked this and found some movement, thats why I put dowels in the leading edge of the root. I have also purposely given a small amount of left aileron during loops and also tried some left rudder, but it still goes right at the bottom of a loop. I know many people have adressed this already and just wanted to let everyone know the dowels made the plane fly better but not fix the problem.

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

The tail wheel always comes loose. Not the bracket but the wheel itself. I either have to leave it a bit loose or tighten it up the way it should be and then it does'nt spin right. I hate this tail wheel and it was the same thing with my extra 260 from Horrizon. My showtime would snap on low rates while banking at times. When you bank you give a little elevator to remain level and it would happen at those times every so often and you know thats not much elevator input period. It would snap to the other side from which I was banked. All and all the plane flies nice and would'nt snap doing a wall believe it or not after reading what I wrote a few lines ago. Can't explain it just know that it did it.
Scott

RoughLandin

Banche, Thank you for taking to time to prove to all of us on this forum what an *SSHOLE you are.

Next time I'll keep my "inexperienced" and un-"informative opinions" to myself when I'm in the presence of such obvious majesty. I'm sure pilot induced error has never affected someone so gifted or arrogant as you. My whole point was that before people start modifying their planes incessantly they should confirm they are not a contributing factor to the symptom they are experiencing.

Banche you’re a *****!!!

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

I agree with roughlandin, I do not fly 3D I fly pattern and although this is not a pattern plane it will do the sequences fairly well. I have pulled out of split S at full throttle and have done many loops with mine and never have had the snapping problem we are discussing here. If the plane rolls out it is because of aileron or rudder input.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

OK folks,

The bickering needs to stop. If it continues I'll start removing posts and if it still continues after that I'll lock this thread

Banche

you got it Bubba

RoughLandin

Enough said Bubbagates.

NOW BACK TO THE PLANE. The stock tail wheel assembly is fine for me except the spring setup. I like how light it is but my springs added waaay too much tension and ended up breaking. i then tried to use it without them as more of a castor setup. Worked great except in the wind. The big rudder would act like a sail and I would get spun around at taxi speed. Finally my grass field caught up with it and the metal rod the wheel is directly mounted on bent and sheared off. I switched to a Sullivan TW that is OK but much heavier...

I think a simple modificaton could be made to the stock TW to improve it. I would recommend only mounting the spring on one side, loosen the nut and re-adjust so that the side connected to the spring is paralell to the fuse (cut off the other arm not in use to free movement). Mount the other end of the spring to the recommended hardpoint this will establish more of a tiller setup like the one used on the sulivan TW I just bought. Tension is 1/4 what it used to be. Now if that spring breaks you have the other one as a backup... I might give this a shot to reduce weight over the Sullivan one.

The tall height has never bothered me as I like to gain a fair amount of speed before easing it into the air.

Banche

Wait, I just have to ask.

How does the Plane snap when it is going so fast in a strait line, say, when you are coming out of a bottom of a loop?????????????? [sm=confused.gif][sm=RAINFRO.gif]

nate1001

My Feedback: (2)

I took the springs to the front of the rudder and put a stick the same width as the steering on the wheel. I drilled holes and ran both springs forward to the stick. I mounted it to the bottom of rudder and it works good. no more tesnion when it is turned and keeps positive control of tail wheel

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

About the tail wheel, I installed the bolt that would normally be used for the pull-pull in the rudder (I have a servo in the rear for the rudder) I extended the springs to the bolt and wrapped them around it. I have many flights on this plane and the tail wheel arrangement works fine.

Koenieboy

Maybe this question came already along, but this thread is quite long to read all from the beginning.

Is the OS 120AX enough for (extreme) 3D flying with the showtime. I like a 2-stroke more because it's cheaper (I'm still a student with not much money ). Which other engine would you recommend otherwise??

Thanks in advance