BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Servos, at least a metal gear, HS 645 / 625, and more on the rudder
ZDZ40 should be fine

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My Feedback: (2)

Well guys the wind gods didn't want me to fly today so I didn't get to maiden the plane.[:@] I think a ZDZ 40 would do great on this thing! Plus you can run duel 645s on the rudder I think that would work fine.

keary

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks guys,
What about the hardware package?

keary

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

The hardware package looks to be ok, but there are some stuff that I plan to do different anyway. I always use carbon fibre rod over 4-40 all-thread to make it stronger on all the big planes I build.
Extra....did you go by the instructions for installing the control horns? The manual says to not drill completely through and use a #4 x 1/2" screw. My hardware package has backing plates for the control horns...to use those, (backing plates) you will have to drill through and use machine screws about an inch long.

keary

My Feedback: (10)

Hi,
I do exactly the same thing, with the carbon rods over 4/40- Guess I was wondering about the rods.If they were 4/40 or not and
the control horns. I prefer the bolt thru the surface with the screw down connecting link-usually reinforce base with a small square
of 1/64 ply.

keary

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My Feedback: (2)

The instructions are correct the only place you will use a backplate for a control horn is on the rudder if you use one rudder servo. I used 2 control horns on my rudder and connected them with the supplied 4-40 bolts and nyloc nuts.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Wonder why they gave me (8) backing plates then? I guess they were feeling generous that day.[sm=thumbup.gif]

paulputman

Hi

I have recently received the great planes ultimate 160 with the Fuji 43cc EIS motor - I realise I will need to add tail weight with this motor. Can anyone give me an indication of flight performance of this combination ??

Is it better to fit the pitts stlye muffler or keep the one that comes with the motor?

thanks in anticipation

Paul

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Paul, is there a pitts muffler for the Fuji 43? If so, then (just my preference) I would go with that. I don't know anything about the engine, but I hope with the engine and the plane it turns out to be the "ultimate" combination. I'm kinda hedging around and waiting untill somebody flies it and lets us know if the reccomended engines are enough or if a stronger one would be better.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

If there is a pitts muffler for that engine I also would love to know about it

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My Feedback: (2)

You shouldn't need to add any tail weight my Ultimate balanced right on the money with one rudder servo.

paulputman

Hi
ULTIMATE 160 and FUJI 43
I have not got the pitts muffler yet - but have been promised one - will let you know what make etc.

Really thats good to hear that little or no tail weight is a possibility once I have mine built - from the instructions though they do seem to suggest that tail weight is required for engines over 1.5lb. I hate the idea of adding lead to this particular model.

I am a bit slow unfortunately and probably wont have this built and ready to fly until early next year.

Any hints as to the best prop for this model with a Fuji 43?

Cheers

Paul

UltraBob

What's everyone's thoughts on the CA hinges?

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Paul,

I have a Belia 20X8 that I'm gonna try first then probably move up to a 22X6 Mejlik when the engine is broken in

The engines manual says that after 60 minutes of breakin, they turned and APC 20X8 at 8000. They converted that into 23lbs of thrust and most likely did the conversion using HPthrust. It's been my experience that HPThrust is not entirely accurate.

I've learned the Belia 20X8 will turn a little slower than the APC but it's a slightly wider blade so it does generate more thrust.

I had the Belia on a Roto35 (35CC) it turned roughly 6000 but generated 18lbs of thrust using my trusty fish scale. The same engine using the same size/pitch APC put out 6300 rpm but only generated 17.5lbs of thrust. On a 15 pound airplane, that .5 lb of thrust was noticeable.

I'm thinking that anything that gives 20lbs of thrust will be just fine for this plane. So far from this thread it seems that GP may have the weights actually close to what we will see so if you go by the high end and add a half pound, then at 14lbs and 20lbs of thrust then you'll have a pretty good plane. If you can get 23lbs of thrust then you'll end up with a great plane.

In any case, the wing loading will not be bad at all

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I wouldn't use the CA hinges, but that's me. I've had too many break on me.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I have used CA hinges on many planes and not had one single problem (knocking on wood) The Great Planes hinge material seems to be a little thicker than other brands. I tried tearing one in half and I couldn't do it. Just make sure there are no knicks or small tears in the material and they should be just fine.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Personally, I have used, and will use good CA hinges since they came out. There are a lot of reasons these hinges fail. Most, I think fail due to too much glue, too loose slot, or combination of those. I use the following technique, it has been very reliable on lots of aerobatic airplanes.

First, I try to make sure that CA is going to penetrate WOOD. That means that I carefully cut away any covering around the hinge slots BEFORE gluing. Usually, that's about 1/16" either side of the slot.
Second, before fitting the hinges, I use a soft graphite pencil, drawing a center line on both sides of the hinges at the middle. This becomes the "flex point", and CA will not penetrate/stick to the graphite.
Next, I always install the hinge to the movable surface. After inserting the hinge up to the pencil line, I insert a straight pin parallel to the hinge, sticking several holes in the wood adjacent to the hinge, right up against the hinge surface. This makes small glue paths to force the CA to wick to the full depth of the hinge. I prepare the NON-movable surface the same way, using a spare hinge in the slots to permit the straight pin to do it's thing.
Then - on the movable part, I put a VERY, very small droplet of CA at the edge of the slot where the hinge is making contact. This doesn't wick, but simply stops the hinge from shifting.
Finally - I insert the movable surface into the lifting surface slots, making sure that the hinge goes all the way to the pencil line. This method permits VERY close gaps, usually less than 1/16". At this point, holding the wing/stab/fin horizontal, I apply several drops to the hinge, usually about 6 or so. Top or bottom first, but after letting that first side glue "set", immediately flip it over, apply the glue on the OTHER side. Leave everything alone for 15 - 20 minutes..... You will NOT pull that hinge apart without destruction of the wood.

Try this on a test piece. Put vise grips on the hinge, pull with scale attached; Write back what your test reveals is the "pull apart" load. You will be happily surprised, because what you will really learn is the WOOD pull out strength of grain.

Sorry for the length of this post, but MY Ultimate just arrived, and I'll be doing CA hinges on her, so thought I'd share the technique I've had success with.

Of course, YMMV, and this may not work for someone who doesn't want it to. But for everyone else, it will provide a VERY durable, and amazingly strong hinge.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

To add some insurance to the CA hinges to keep them from coming out is to do what I do on the big planes. It is to simply push a large straight pin through the leading and trailing edge of the hinges and cut off the excess with snips. Do this after the CA has cured completely.

scottfl78

I guess no one has maidened yet if I read correctly.. I really like the looks and initial impression you guys have about this plane.. My buddy is thinking about getting the GP Pitts with a big Fuji but I am really trying to discourage him.. Hopefully this plane ends up as good as I think it will

Scott

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I should be done this weekend and maiden mine with the Brison 2.4

Right now, though, I'm trying to sort out flutter on tail servos. Setting up elevators for the 3D travels in the book, with JR 8231's, they are both doing the "can't find center" bounce/flutter. And on surfaces this big (*HUGE*), that is a horrible sight to see and sound to hear, just sitting on the bench. Brand new 8611 on rudder is even doing a LITTLE bit of this, so I'm not getting crazy just yet.... will sort out some known things like servo lead locations, antenna, etc.

I'll post findings when I sort this out.

scottfl78

You mean interference/glitch, or just servo centering and travel? Anyhow good luck..

alpsat

Aerobob are you using a pcm reciever and a regulator? JR servos do not like high voltage. I had one friend with a brison 2.4 having the same problem two years ago.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Just a standard 4.8v pack, HD switch, FM Jr 549 Rx, nothing weird/special. Strange to see, though!

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My Feedback: (2)

AEROBOB, I have seen my servos do this if my transmitter is too close to the plane. I am using the same reciever and Hitec servos and it seems more pronounced if the antenna of the transmitter is inline with the antenna of the reciever. Just acouple of thoughts for you. Also did you run your antenna through the plastic tube in the fuse? I am not real crazy about that it is probobly not a problem I just always rum my reciever antenna outside. Good luck and let us know what you find out!

alpsat

Change your reciever with a pcm (like 649 or 770). Most probably it will be ok.