I think I had 2 ridges on it, or something like that.

Don't do it for all of the elevator ones, just the ones that bumpagainst the stab tube

Hi Josh its me again...just got my Lanier edge today so a hith s5995 tg for the rudder, 5645's for the aileron's and the elevators, GX58 22x8 prop, 2300 mah nihm's for the ignition, 2700 mah nihm's for the flight pack 21oz tank, sound good??? I have a problem ...no engine mount for the motor i need some stand off's any Idea's? I know you made yours but do you know where I can find some TI ones if not ally??? what about the wing tube shall I get a CF tube??? Sorry to bombard you with questions I have just bought a BME Edge 540 1 30% with a DA 50 ready to fly, this will be my first gas plane ....but I have to say it is only just longer than my Showtime and i was not intimidated by it!!!! I am sure i will find the BME easy to fly because I have not built it ( it was used) any tips are welcome!!!!!!!! how is yours flying any more footage???? new video's, thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions, kind regards Colin.

I have the DA mount. You can use that if you want. I'm not sure what kind of distance you will need though.

As for other upgrades, I would say FLY it first, if you don't like it, then upgrade. I'm perfectly happy with my performance, and it's pretty much stock, other than the LION batteries, and CF tailwheel that I ALREADY have. Are you building both? I'm not sure why you would need 2 edges that are of similar size though.

HTH
Josh

Hi Josh well it was an impulse thing,I have no experience with big planes or gas motors so I thought I would buy a used one that was ready to go and practice on it first, also I will not have built it so won't be so afriad of flying it for the first time!!!! I intend to sell it on after I am done with it, a buddy has agreed to buy it for what I bought it for when i am done so long as it is still somewhat stright!!!! so it will be like flying some body else's plane I have been told that the BME fly's very well and I have seen you fly yours so I will have two great flying planes and who know's maybe if all goes well a 40% next year. This Lanier is rated at 30% is it not?? thanks for the comments Josh regards Colin.

It's about that size, but actually a tad bigger, since the wing is slightly larger than scale. The most important thing when flying giant scales is to grease your landing. It should be easier given their size, and preception of slower flight, but you make sure that you keep some speed up until you're ready to touch down. Good luck with both planes.

Did anyone modify their Lanier to a pull-pull setup?

I'm about to do this and looking for any feedback on the best location for the servo tray, structure and the best exit location for the cables.

I'm doing this on the Extra but i assume they are almost identical in structure from the cockpit aft.


Thanks.

Yarom, Josh has done it in this post go back to the first pages of this post and you will see how he did it. there are some detailed pictures and don,t forget to check out his video too regards Colin.

You pretty much have to do it if you go with anything smaller than a 60cc engine (4 lbs).

Cool, thanks. I just looked at it.

I'll post a picture of my setup once the epoxy cures and I start connecting things.

I built a tray that I have not fixed into the plane yet. I will wait until I have the cables running to find the best location and fix it then with side rails.

It seems quite evident it will have to run low in the fuselage to clear below the two elevator servos.

If i may make a suggestion, get it wired first, then find out whether they rub or not. Mine actually do not rub once I cross them. Got kinda lucky that way.

I will.

I also don't know which type of arm I need until I figure out if they need to be crossed or not.

I did figure out I will need a 4" arm to match the rudder mechanically.

Not sure if I should use a tiller arm or go straight from the servo (JR8611A).

Bonedoc--if you were to build it over again would you stay with the DA50 or would you go with the Evo 58--your present setup looks like it flies very well--I have the DA 50 on my H9 Extra 260--could snatch the motor and electronics for the Lanier or just buy the Evo 58--also- what servo arms did you use--thanks for any help

Bonedoc---one more question--I see you added 1/4 inch more to the motor mount with the ply pieces--what if someone just used the 3 inch standoffs--it might not look quite as good but would extending the DA 50 out the extra 1/4 inch be enough not to have to make a pull-pull for the rudder?--just a thought--thanks

You can use the 3" standoff. I have that for my DA, but ended up using my 2.5". Either way, you still HAVE to use the pull pull, if you go with the DA. I had a DA on hand, and so that's what I used. If I were to start from scratch, then I'd probably use the Evo58. I doubt I'll feel the difference in wingloading that much. But I sure will feel it on the pullout (not to say that pullout with DA is bad).
I used 1" Dubro arms on the ailerons (cheapest method), and 1.25" on the elevators (you can probably use 1.5" also, but 1.25" is what my LHS has). I used a tiller arm because it supposedly makes your BB on the servo last longer.

Thanks Bonedoc--only need to talk the wife into buying the motor and the rest of the electronics and I won't have to rob the Extra--BTW- my H9 Extra 260 weighs 14.3 lbs and still flies really good--I,m thinking the extra weight for the 58 won't really matter--thanks again

Good luck, such is the life of a married man

Josh

I checked out your videos and you dont need a lighter plane it looks like it flys very well at 17.3lbs or 17.5 what ever it is it looks like it flys very light. I was just messing with you about the 16lbs and the Dremel tool.

. I could spend another 100 dollars for CF parts to drop it to 16 lbs, but I don't feel the need. Verticals are plenty and slow speed handling is just fine. Now if only the design has less coupling, it'd be perfect. I must say though, that craftsmanship is definitely better than the H9 products I've purchased

I have to agree, I have gotten some stinkers from H9.

Hi Josh started to build my Edge today, weighed all the parts before the build some are lighter some are heavier than yours, I can't even start to mount the GX58 yet as I don't have a muffler for it (back order), so I cannot order the standoffs yet[>:] I guess it is a bit of a dumb question??? but you had to chop off the hinges for the elevator halves so as they missed the stab tube right??? I know I have asked you before but I am fitting just one servo for the rudder a HS 5995 TG( I put one in my BME Edge in replacement of the HS 5645 that was originally in there) man they are powerful, managed to find a programmer off e-bay now thats a cool and well needed gadget....... any how the GX58 is a pond heavier than the DA50 so I guess it would be ok to mount the one servo in the tail and it will pretty much balance ok with the batteries up front, what do you think??? I know you worked it out with weight and lenth etc I just don't want to end up cutting and shaving to balance it out after or add the dredded dead weight [:@][:@],
I weighed the landing gear and the stab and wing tubes and the tail wheels man they are heavy!!! 1.3 pounds right there, so we know where to start the diet don't we, the Lanier appers to be smaller than the BME Edge even with that barn door for a rudder, josh how do you have your ailerons connected up you are not using "y" leads are you I am using my old faithful 9C Super for the tranny, Thanks Josh regards Colin.

Yep, just cut enough so that it doesn't go through the stab tube.

The LG is heavy, no doubt, but it's not that much heavier than CF. I started looking at CF gear from graphtech, and it weighs about 9 Oz. My alum gear weighs 12 oz.

I had a "hard" landing on my Edge yesterday. Basically I was trying to do a harrier landing (never done it before). At any rate, the plane rocked a bit hard to one side, and I wasn't quick enough on the throttle to compensate for the descent rate. So I pancaked it from 10 feet, hard on the L side. Amazingly, the plane survived unscathed, other than the fact that the tip of the wing has a couple of crushed balsa sheeting (nothing structural), and the landing gear is quite severely bent. I was even more impressed with the strenth of the construction because when I try to bend the LG back, I could not. I've tried many many different ways and still couldn't. That shows me how much force the plane was getting on impact, and still survived mostly unscathed. It definitely got my 2 thumbs up for durability.

... now, should I go with graphtech or replacement from TNT?

If you ever plan to try a harrier landing again, do NOT go with CF gear. Even with my best landings, I've gone through 3 gears on my 33% CAP (from graphtech). I wouldn't mind trying the rc supergear though. It seems to be the only brand that gets wrapped.

Peter

I eventually got the LG fixed (looks a bit ugly now, but functional nevertheless). At my CG, this plane TOTALLY ROCKS when it comes to waterfall and KE Spin. The KE Spin you see on my video is nothing compared to what I can make it do now. It practically pinwheel on the cg itself... so much so that after 5-10 tries of that over 3-5 flights, the canopy blew apart. Basically the ply attachment point came off from the canopy itself. So if any of you guys are doing hard 3D, be sure to reinforce that area.

If I can get someone to video my flights again, I'll show you what I mean. I've got the KE mixed out now. It takes about 19% aileron, and 7% elevator.

Josh, what did you do for the choke?

On the DA 50 there is a very little lever that requires quite a hard pull to open and close.

I put a servo on it temporarily, but I doubt it is that necessary. The same servo doubles for me as ignition cutoff (one side of the arm moves the choke, the other one hits the switch).

Is there a way to connect a lever to it and pull it only when needing to prime the engine?

For IMAA, you need another way to kill the engine, other than the throttle. So a servo actuating as a choke will do. If not, you can fashion a bell crank, or get a thicker piano wire, making a small L bend at the end, and just stick that thing inside the cowl when you need to choke / release choke.

I hope that makes sense