300s for 3d work
#104
You said earlier in your posts that this airframe is way overbuilt. That is true but you are making holes everywhere !! Don't you think it could be time to stop lightening a bit ??? Just a question.
What kind of radio gear are you going to use?
What kind of radio gear are you going to use?
#105
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: sterling hts, MI
LOL......Ya im done cutting. I did what i wanted to do. Its light but not to weak. I hope!
I will be running stock servos and a 5cell pack. I am running that combo on my 540 profile and its great. 60 oz of tork in a 1.1oz package. I tried micros on another plane and they dont hold up. Unless i get some $90 a piece servos. Not gonna happen.
I will be running stock servos and a 5cell pack. I am running that combo on my 540 profile and its great. 60 oz of tork in a 1.1oz package. I tried micros on another plane and they dont hold up. Unless i get some $90 a piece servos. Not gonna happen.
#106
Current Status:
Cowl Mounted and ready for paint (Weather Permitting!)
Elevator Servos installed at rear locations, awaiting Pushrods.
Aileron Servos installed and linked to Ailerons (All Done with Wing!)
Installed Rudder Servo and ready for Pull-Pull Setup.
Thats about it for now.
Phil (Mesa, AZ)
Picture with outer covering completed, only need to do the cockpit.
Cowl Mounted and ready for paint (Weather Permitting!)
Elevator Servos installed at rear locations, awaiting Pushrods.
Aileron Servos installed and linked to Ailerons (All Done with Wing!)
Installed Rudder Servo and ready for Pull-Pull Setup.
Thats about it for now.
Phil (Mesa, AZ)
Picture with outer covering completed, only need to do the cockpit.
#108
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: sterling hts, MI
Merry x-mas all!!!!!
Well i got a dig cam for x-mas. hehehehe.
Ok last pics your gonna get untill its coverd.
The first one is of a stock built 300s.
Well i got a dig cam for x-mas. hehehehe.
Ok last pics your gonna get untill its coverd.
The first one is of a stock built 300s.
#110
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
I just got mine today... from you know who
, and there was a product update in it. I'm not sure how long this has been in effect, but it said that GP has replaced their spars from balsa? to hardwood. I won't be working on it for a while though.
da king: First off, nice pics... Second, when I compare your 300sx to the stock pic it looks like you just extended the rudder and elevator, when I compared Did you shorten/lengthen/move the stab and fin, or did you just extend it? I hope your 300sx
turns out well!
Merry Christmas!
-Brian
, and there was a product update in it. I'm not sure how long this has been in effect, but it said that GP has replaced their spars from balsa? to hardwood. I won't be working on it for a while though.da king: First off, nice pics... Second, when I compare your 300sx to the stock pic it looks like you just extended the rudder and elevator, when I compared Did you shorten/lengthen/move the stab and fin, or did you just extend it? I hope your 300sx
turns out well!Merry Christmas!
-Brian
#111
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: sterling hts, MI
somone 11.....I move the trailing edge of the fin and stab a 1/2 inch to shorten them. I doubled the rudder and add a inch to the elevator. When i mounted it i put the stab in the stock place and just butted the fin againt the back of the fuse. Thats why the fin looks like it sits behind the stab.
I didnt see anything about the spruce spars but yes my kit had them. I changed mine to 1/4 x 1/8 spruce and doubled it up in the first 3 ribs. Plus i made my own ribs. Yes sounds like a lot of work but two or three of the ribs i cut wieght as much as one of the kit ribs. Saved a ton of wieght in the wing.
Or you could use some real lite balsa for the spars and glue some carbon to it. Light and strong.
I thought about replacing the ply fuse with balsa but it was to hard to find 48" 1/8 balsa.
OK...Hope this helps.
I didnt see anything about the spruce spars but yes my kit had them. I changed mine to 1/4 x 1/8 spruce and doubled it up in the first 3 ribs. Plus i made my own ribs. Yes sounds like a lot of work but two or three of the ribs i cut wieght as much as one of the kit ribs. Saved a ton of wieght in the wing.
Or you could use some real lite balsa for the spars and glue some carbon to it. Light and strong.
I thought about replacing the ply fuse with balsa but it was to hard to find 48" 1/8 balsa.
OK...Hope this helps.
#112
Does anybody know why GP changed those spars? I obviously got the old kit since I have bought it 4 years ago.
If it is for structural problems, I don't think they strengthened at the right place --> the stab is a little weak and likes to flutter even on level flight or it is only because mine is real old.
Has anybody comments regarding to the structural integrity of the wing?
If it is for structural problems, I don't think they strengthened at the right place --> the stab is a little weak and likes to flutter even on level flight or it is only because mine is real old.
Has anybody comments regarding to the structural integrity of the wing?
#113
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
I don't know anything about the structural integrity of the wing when they used balsa spars, but my friend DGrant had to reinforce his stab with carbon fiber and flying wires on his GP extra. His fist extra had a failure in the stab... see his posts about it in this thread:http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...ber=1&forumid=]
#114
Senior Member
For every stab failure, there are dozens of successful planes. I have been flying mine with a Supertigre 75 for well over 150 flights and have not had any problems with the tail fluttering.
#119
Well, I have started to paint the cowl. I just have the white added so I won't post any pics of that. I do, however, have the cockpit done except for 1 small piece of monokote for the gauges to go on. As for the rest of the cockpit I decided to try using the "stone" spray paint. I added grey primer first so I wouldn't have to use as much paint when trying to cover up the balsa floor. I knew this from past experience with painting wood with this stuff. Always use a paint or primer first! Unless you want several ounces of the rock paint.
Here is a pic.
Phil (Mesa, AZ)
Here is a pic.
Phil (Mesa, AZ)
#120
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Apalachin,
NY
Particleman:
Thanks for the picture. The reason I asked was because I have seen the straight landing gears and bent also. Is it more comfortable to land with the bent landing gear (ie, less bounce )
Regards,
GL
Thanks for the picture. The reason I asked was because I have seen the straight landing gears and bent also. Is it more comfortable to land with the bent landing gear (ie, less bounce )
Regards,
GL
#121
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: FRANCE
About the landing gear, I use the stock landing gear (ie bent) and found it very adequate. Almost no tendency to bounce, and when you slam the plane the landing gear takes the hit, the airframe remains undamaged, at worse you need to straighten the landing gear, no big deal.
Now that I have moved the CG aft though, I find it tends to bounce more than usual. I will try to flip the landing gear (ie front/rear side) so that the wheels get a bit further aft. That should more or less follow the CG change... we'll see...
Now that I have moved the CG aft though, I find it tends to bounce more than usual. I will try to flip the landing gear (ie front/rear side) so that the wheels get a bit further aft. That should more or less follow the CG change... we'll see...
#122
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: sterling hts, MI
i think the reson it bounc's now is becuse the plane still wants to fly. try slowing it down a little more be for touch down.
Oh you might not want to flip the gear. It will probily nose over on take off and landing. I put the gear backwards on my cap and i couldnt land without the nose digging in the ground now matter how slow i landed.
Hope this helps
Oh you might not want to flip the gear. It will probily nose over on take off and landing. I put the gear backwards on my cap and i couldnt land without the nose digging in the ground now matter how slow i landed.
Hope this helps
#123
I have been flying this plane for four years now and the more the CG is aft, the more the plane tends to bounce on landing. The reason I think for this is that with an aft CG, you can not do real good 3 point landings because it will snap before touching down. The bounces are really soft but just don't look good.
Reversing the landing gear appears to me like a good idea but as Da king sais, maybe you will have some nose-over problems and maybe not. Be sure to check for the toe-in in your landing gear because it is bent in the aluminum and you will have toe-out, which is not good. Maybe it was the real problem of your Cap Da king ??
Reversing the landing gear appears to me like a good idea but as Da king sais, maybe you will have some nose-over problems and maybe not. Be sure to check for the toe-in in your landing gear because it is bent in the aluminum and you will have toe-out, which is not good. Maybe it was the real problem of your Cap Da king ??



