Yallaair :
Did you remove the plug and check the spark by moving the prop near the top end by hand ?

Hi!
The following has been tested:
Replaced / tested different plugs. Tested with different plug gap from
0,7-1,0mm
Ignition module gives a spark, but timing on high RPM is difficult to
check. ( Low RPM is OK)
Tested with different new battery pack 4,8-6 volt, 1100-1800mah.
Tested with two different carburetors. (Walboro)
Tested with different gasoline (ASPEN and 95 octane with 1:33 synth oil.)
Replaced all gasoline hoses / filters.
Tested different engine orientation.
Tested different ignition timing on magneto pickup.
Tested with start gas in carb. Does not help.
I tested with different needle settings. From 0,5 turn to 6 turn
open.

Question, is the ignition wrapped in foam? An overheated ignition will produce what you are experiencing. Good luck. Joe

The engine in question was mounted on a teststand and all hardware was also "out in the day" and very exposed to cooling air, nothing got hot. Anyway on both engines tested they both started and ran flawless during first day of running and then suddenly the next day nothing at all will make them run??? Both me and Yallaair are out of ideas other than that the ignition module does not last more than a couple of hours of running. Are we the only ones having problems with this engine???

I have looked into this plane because I was looking for a home for my 26gt gasser. Excited because it was under 300$
Has anyone weighed this plane total, with a 26gt, evo \(mvvs\)?
I though I heard around 11 pounds for the yak version?
I had put the evo 26gt mvvs header and pipe combo in a funtana 100x and with fully loaded;including a metal spinner, 2extra servoes (1for choke, 1-for ignition cut off\) all metal gear servos, and heavy duty after market carbon fiber main gear, and 2- lipo batteries with a gws power regulator was== 11 lbs 5-ounces (no joke)
I weighed it on a expensive mail scale so I have got to think that these are in the same weight category.
no way 8.8lbs with a 26cc gasser even if 38 ounces for engine. I can only now get my funtana 100x with a os 120ax striped down feather weight of a plane to 8-8.5 lbs]
It looks like it flies well. How does it land\?

My brand new EDGE weigh 2497g empty but with tank, wheels, bolts and nuts, etc.

You have to calculate motor and radio weights to know the final weight of your future EDGE. [8D]

I think mine will weigh 4kg-4,2kg.

To Yalaair :

If you get the spark at the right time at low rpm, as you said, then you should get some detonations when flipping the prop. Do you get no ignition at all ?. In such a case I suggest :

Low the oil content to 1:45 and use a good synthetic oil.

Make sure the gasoline flows and exit the muffler.

Try 98 octanes gasoline.

gpar!

Already tested. Did not make any difference. ASPEN, 95, 98 octane...Just to make sure there was nothing wrong with the gasoline, I put it into my chainsaw and started it..... I use only good quality synth. oil (shell racing). The strange thing is that the engine has been running OK for about 2-3 hrs before the problems started. No adjustments done before it refused to start.

With a gas engine, failure to run usually only happens when one of three things is missing:

1. spark
2. a suitable air/fuel mixture
3. compression

You seem to have tested and found a spark, I assume the engine has compression -- so all that's left is air/fuel.

Is there fuel actually getting to the chamber?

Choke it good, flick it over a dozen times or so, then take the plug out. If it's getting fuel, the plug should be wet (or at least have some trace of fuel on it). If it doesnt' then chances are that your fuel jet (or the fine mesh filter) in the carby is blocked.

I'm not sure what carby is used on the SPE but some of these engines have an incredibly fine (probably sintered) filter between the fuel pumping diaphram and the fuel-jets. If you have *any* dirt or suspended solids in your fuel, this filter will clog and the engine won't run.

The filter is usually a loose-press-fit into the hole and you have to push it back out using a rod from the other side. Once it's out you need to give it a blast with compressed air (against the fuel-flow direction) so as to get rid of all the dirt.

Is your plug damp/wet after choking?

One spray of starting fluid will get that mother to pop. A continuous spay should keep it running once it starts to pop. If it does then its a fuel issue and back to the carb. If no poping with the starting fluid its back to the compression test. You may want to use a sulivan starter motor to get the ign. cranking too if you have a spinner. Just what works for me.

Starting fluid and electric starter have been tried and the engine is still dead.The plug gets wet with gasoline. There is some popping when handflipped but when the el.starter is applied it is completely dead no matter what. For those of you who jumps in here at the end, read the whole thread, everything has been tried to get the engine running. This have happened to TWO different SPE 26`s. As said before they start and run good the first day and next day nothing at all will make them start. Compression is better day two than day one due to some running in time the first day when the engines actually starts. I am a frustrated friend of Yallaair. Me and him combined makes for a really smart and competent team( just kidding) at least average and a we are not able to get this engine started. Did I mention that I can start my MVVS 26cc gasser in a matter of no time? We are not unfamiliar with engines at all. He is a ship machinist and I am a scootertuning freak

There's another thread, where PLUM CRAZY had an issue with his SPE26 and he had to adjust the carby. Check out POST#52 in the following thread ...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_48...tm.htm#4800289

It might be something similar to this.

Another thing you may want to check it to see if your piston rings are stuck in their respective grooves (they should be free).

-R

I'm hoping that you post your findings when you get your problem solved. The exact same thing happened to my MVVS 26cc gas and I spent time trouble shooting it on three different days and could find nothing wrong with it.

On the third day I got the usual few feeble pops and was ready to give up. Then after a another long period of flipping with not even one pop, it suddenly sprang to life with no warning and ran just as well as it ever did. It somehow got well on it's own and has been starting on one or two flips ever since.

Since I did nothing to fix it I fear that condition may return again.

Has anyone put a Brillelli 26 gt on one of these they are the same as the spe only gone through and set up. From all I've heard comes with great custumer service. I wonder if the set up will give it that little bit some say it needs.

Most important thing Brillelli does to the SPE is to change the ignition unit, I guess we have discovered why. By the way we have tried adjusting the carb in every possible and impossible ways, reset it to factory settings included. Stripped down the carb completely and blown it with compressed air and also tried different Walbro carb from a working chainsaw. No luck:-( This engine is going back under warranty like the one before it and is beeing exchanged for an glow ASP 180 fourstroke

Too bad, I have the BCMA 26cc and I love it! I put it on a H9 Showtime 4D and it screams through 3D maneuvers! I guess that's why they cost a little more through BCMA, not to mention that he'll give you 1-on-1 help anytime you call him.

I'm pondering buying that Yak from Peakmodels. I have yet to see a pic of it all put together, though...

Oh, I had a similar problem once, and I turned the needles all the way in, (lean) and then brought them both out 1/4 turn at a time, trying with a heavy duty starter between adjustments. I was used to glow engines, and the symptoms I was seeing made me think it was too lean; however, gas engines act somewhat differently and won't even pop if they're too rich sometimes. So, before sending it back, you could try that. If it ran great during the initial run, I'm wondering if you were breaing it in correctly. Gas engines should NOT be run rich during the break-in, it will damage them. Also, too much prop during break-in can kill them too.

Hey, if all that has already been mentioned, my apologies... I'm guilty of not reading the original post about the engine problem, just some of the follow-ups since then...

hmm

Freebird1 :

The video does not prove the spe 26 can pull the edge out of a hover, since the plane in the video was flown by Jose Ribeiro and he said the engine used was "a rear carburetor engine"
not the spe 26, but a 26 cc from another company.

In the engine forum, in a post about the spe 26, Jose Ribeiro himself states the spe 26 is "too weak" for 3d.

So i'm keeping my doubts about the spe 26 cc capacity for 3d as well.

Freebird1:


You are right, I will have my rear carburetor engine today,( I hope) to try. If the rear carb engine is any good we will be the US inporter for the engine, look back a few post and you will see a picture of the engine.

disregard prev answer...
I couldn't get mine to run right
sending it in because spent way too much time wasted on it already,,,,
Time is money\!!!
14hours and still not running for me.....not worth it!

I'm not familiar with this engine but something to consider if it uses reed valve induction

In regards to the engine problem,3W has this issue on some of the 50cc engines that use reed valve. I know because I have had it happen to me.

All the flipping in the world does nothing.

For the first few flights it ran like a top, then one day it took forever to start it then the very next flight I could not start it. Tried everything that was already tried in the posts on here and one day I pulled the carb off. Low and behold I found a piece of balsa that had wedged itself in the reeds that I had cut out for a servo mount thus holding them open. Removed the wood, engine ran flawless again

Fast forward to two days ago

Say exact problem, first flight starts up the same as always. Next flight nothing, nada. Pulled the engine thinking something was hung in the reeds because I had just installed a smoke tank and had o cutoff a wire tie so I'm thinking I left the cut tie in the plane and it ended up in the reeds again. Nope noth the problem but I did notice the reeds were not closed all the way. Took them out, flipped them over. Now the engine starts just like it used to.

Called Aircraft International and ordered a new set of reeds. Original set was some kind of plastic and had warped, new ones are supposed to be better

Moral is, look at the reeds. If this engine has them, then I'll bet they are not closing all the way which will seriously lean the engine. You can test this by putting some gas directly into the carb (prime) and flipping to see if it at least pops. In all cases mine would but would not keep running once the "prime" was burned off. This test is by no means valid but still look at the reeds if so equipped

By the look of them, the SPEs use straight sub-piston/piston-port induction without any reeds.

well, so far I am about 2/3 done with the edge and it seems light. Over all seems like a good ARF. I am going stock with the SPE, but not some of the hardware. Hinges are crap and the rods are 2-56. I do not like the idea of a single srevo with a single push rod for rudder and elevator. I am going to test fly her then go with 2 servos in the tail for elevator and pull pull on the rudder. Over all it sould be a great bird. As fas as the power of the SPE, time will tell.

Early Zenoahs had issues with the carb block warping and causng no start problems so maybe that's what you have here. Give RCIGN1 a shout via PM and ask him what he thinks or ask over in the gas engine forum