gjeffers

i told you once you did it you wouldnt go back
great huh Ron[8D]

sdcranford

My Feedback: (4)

38,

No prob, thanks for the help though. Got it to work but dont want to have
to mess with the trim on the ground. So until I get a 9c (sometime in the
future) I will keep the reversing y in there.

Everybody happy turkey day.

airstik2003

sorry sdcranford

i wish i could be more help
my friend has a 7cap and flys a 60 ucd without any ys
and his trim works

btw: get a 9c super one of mine is a suoer and i like it more that my 9cap

38

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

4 sure Gary... It's on to stay:-)

stikpilot

I'M FINALLY IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING MY UCD46. MY QUESTION IS SIMPLE HOW DOES ONE INSTALL THE WHEEL PANTS,TWO #8 WASHERS AND THE WHEEL COLLAR IN SUCH A SMALL SPACE. DO YOU USE THE STOCK TIRES OR THINNER TIRES??MY PLANS ARE TO USE HI- TECH 475BB FOR ELEV'S AND RUDDER AND FUT 3003'S FOR AIL, AND A MAGNUM 80 FOR PWR AND A FUT-8U RADIO.

gjeffers

stikpilot welcome!!

first, the wheelpants are kinda small and i didnt use them and wouldnt at least untill i beefed up the landing gear because they will sheer off clean after the first hard landing but that is an easy repair, just need a little white ultra coat, but they will go right thrrough the wing bottoms if on when the gear goes, but back to your question----you need to put the tire and washer in the pant then slide the pant and wheel over the vertical axle and then with the collar on your driver already pry it open a little and insert it and tighten, shewwww i know its a little tight but it works

sounds like you will have a nice setup with the rest and you will have a ball with this plane[8D]

airstik2003

stikpilot

i didn't put the wheel pants on my 46 ucd and don't worry about
putting them on until you land hard(like gary said)

the servos are ok and i have the same transmitter on one of my 60 ucd
so you have a good radio for the plane you don't need a y you can put
each servo in a different port and ues the p-mixes

btw:
ch1 ail
ch2 ele
ch3 tro
ch4 rud
ch5 gear (don't use this ch unless you have smoke or retracts
ch6 flap (ues this for the other ail servo)(turn on flpron mix set both at +100
ch7 aux1 (ues this for ele)(ues pmix)(mix 2&7
ch8 aux2


good luck

38

stikpilot

THANKS EVERYBODY FOR THE INFORMATION. FOR MY ELEVATORS I HAVE ONE OF THOSE MAGIC CABLES THAT I USED ON MY ULTIMATE BIPE(LONG GONE) AND IT WORK WELL. HOWEVER I WILL COPY DOWN THESE MIX'S.
THANKS AGAIN AND HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL

STIK

airstik2003

hey guys

still stuffed from yesterday lol
in the morning my dad and i are going to help
a friend finish his showtime the after we might
take our ucds out to our field and do some snow
flying[&:]
it will be cold but i haven't flown my ucd in two
months[:@]
cant wait to fly her again, i missed her []
lol

well good luck on all your projects
my dad and i will not start ours until jan

38

perkinsm

HERES SOMETHING THAT MIGHT BE FUN:

What do you guys think about a UCD 46 Fly-In, somewhere this coming summer?

We'll have to somehow come up with a location thats central to everyone if thats possible.

What do you guys think?

gjeffers

my brother and sister inlaw live in hutchinson Kansas, how does that sound?

here is what i did this weekend

airstik2003

perkinsm

thats a good idea,there are 12 guys at my field who have ucds
we live in/near pittsburgh

one ucd owner thought of doing that next summer...but where?[:-]

gjeffers

that's some good flying
keep it up, lol


38

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

There's that Gary again flying inverted, slow and low.............[>:] Dang! I wish I could do that. [&o] I couldn't even keep mine running yesterday. I did a little tuning on it because it kept deadsticking and the tuning helped a little bit but it still shut off about 5 minutes into flight. I gotta get it set up right again so I can fly...... I have the cowl off now and I'll check the valves, fuel lines, and tuning of it. (again)

A UCD fly in would be great. That's a neat idea.

sdcranford

My Feedback: (4)

The MacDaddy,

I recieved the piece of covering, thank you sooo much. If you ever need anything like
that let me know first, I may have it and would be very glad to send it to you!

Thanks again!!!

Jack211

RC, make sure your clunk is attached to the brass lead and free-moving on the tank bottom. Check, too, for bubbles in your fuel line. If you bumped it hard a while ago, the clunk may be FORWARD and stuck as opposed to rearward and free moving. Just pick the bird up, nose high, and wiggle the fuse. You'll know right away.

If it's hard to tune, bubbles in the line may be the problem. That means the tank is vibrating, hard against some piece of the plane; OR you have holes in your lines. Even a pinhole can make tuning the engine difficult.

Give it a try. Dead sticks are fun, but you need more than 5 mins in the air to justify them. :-)

Jack

perkinsm

I think it would be a blast to get together and fly for a few days. We'll just have to wait and see how many are interested and where everyones from and go from there on a location.

GJEFFERS - WOW , nice flying and in just a t-shirt too. I attached a pic of our Turkey Fly-In yesterday. Yeah, snow and cold but we still flew.

gjeffers

yea Perkins, you guys are a lot tougher than me
my son was here from Vegas for the holidays and we flew again today and it was a nice 60 deg but the summers here are a little hard on ya for flying thats why i have flying season is here on the bottom of my posts i think id be like you even there because i go out an fly in 110 deg sometimes because i just cant stand it!!

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Jack. You're awesome. I haven't gotten around to doing all that yet. I thought I would install a new door on the hangar.... er umm..... house today and then work on the UCD. The door job took waaaaayyyyyy longer than I thought it would. Looks great though...... [8D] I'll have to do the Do tomorrow.

Perkinsm. Kudos to you guys flying in that kind of weather. [X(] WoW! that's cool..........

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Gary Looks Great!!... I see your getting better at flying and taking pics.. I
have to work on that

Rob It's a pain when you have outtings like that, Just go through it all and
the problem will show up... It just happened to me with the S-100 it just
did not want to idle long or dead sticks on long low throttle flying.. Re-tuned
check this and that.... Changed the plug and problems no more..

perkinsm It does look cold.. Like Gary said... I'd be flying too..

Well another great day with the "Do" a couple days ago(a bit windy since)
I even had a L.G. repair test... I was leaning the low end and somehow did
not notice that the idle was too hi.. came in hot, it touched down lite but
because of the speed started flying again so I forced it down a bit to fast
and it hit pretty hard a few times:-) and even with the kill on no way to get
it... So I had to go back up and deadstick it in... Man I get a lot longer flts.
now, It's unbelievable... Still working on the flat spins, it still wants to loop
out.. I did get a pretty good one in, but it looped out while working on the
throttle to increase it's rising, It's going to really climb once I get this worked
out... I'm playing with spoilerons now for assistance...

Kaos

I don't know the proper place to post this (I tried the gas/fuel area) so forgive me if this isn't the proper area.

To get right to the point, I had a close call last Friday when the fuel pump on my flight box caught fire while fueling up my U-Can-Do 3D .46. I have a fueling port valve on my UCD and I had just topped off the tank for the first flight of the day. As a habit, I always reverse my electric fuel pump for a moment before unplugging the fuel line from the airplane. When I hit the reverse switch I remember hearing a very subtle "whump" sound. I didn't think much of it until my left thumb (near the pump) started getting hot! I immediately jerked the fuel lines off the gallon jug, along with the velcro straps and set the fuel jug on the ground. Next, I grabbed a cloth rag and wrapped it tightly around the fuel pump. I waited a bit and then checked for heat (remember, burning alcohol does not produce a visible flame, at least until something else starts burning). When I was sure the fire was out I removed the pump from the flight box and sure enough, I could see a small amount of heat damage on the plastic case, near the fuel tube exit. Out of curiosity, I disassembled the pump and it was pretty damp inside with fuel. I also noticed that the switch is not encased or isolated from the pump area (bad design). I figure the switch made a spark when I hit reverse and set off the fuel vapor and drips.

To cure this problem, I am going to bypass the built-in pump switch and just use the power panel fuel pump switch.

Be careful out there.

Kaos.

Jack211

Proper area, Kaos, and good words, thanks! Everybody needs safety--and SOOO right about not SEEING the flames. If a guy says he's on fire, he IS. So often we forget how "volitile" we are out there. I smoke, too, and my buddies have had to remind me about that. You can throw a lit cigarette into a bucket of gas--and it will extinguish the butt without a fire, BUT YOU CAN'T DO THAT WITH NITROMETHANE! It takes only a spark, low ignition temp.

HELP! I want to show you guys what it's like flying in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan--with pictures. [If Lake Superior scribes a wolf's head on the map, I live in the mouth. Lots of cold and snow.] Where is the "attachment" button so I can attach photos?

I'd also like to show my home-made skiis. I'm just putting together skiis made out of the side of a bucket for my UCD 60. They're easy to make and cheap--work like a dream. My Model Tech Magic, Extra, Big Stik, Dirty Birdy, and Twist already have them attached. Of course, now it's raining and we're losing our snow. Best made plans of mice and men....

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Jack, at the bottom of the block that you post your reply there is a link that says "Click here to upload" Just click on that and a box will come up that has boxes that say "browse" From there you can select the pictures off your computer to upload.

gjeffers

to get the upload at the bottom you must click on the reply button on the last post then it will be at the bottom

raideron

My Feedback: (1)

Kaos Great report!!... Besides just having something else that could go
wrong, I have stuck to hand pumps so far my first and only...

Yes, we all should "always" remember safety!! For a lot of us( if not all of
us) we do let it slip at times and thank goodness, for the most part we all
get by... But like our flights... If you play... It's not if... but when...

Keep you flt. gear up to par!!.. Check it regularly and before each flight..
They say... a good crash, means sending the receiver in for a check up..
Do we??... Do range checks, more/always so when new/repaired.. Double
nut all engine/props... Paint the prop's tips... After starting the engine, get
in back of the model... etc. etc. OK I'm done...

I was just reminded about safety at our field.. I tend to let the peanut gallory
get me in trouble at times... I was just making a slow/low up right flyby at
about three foot and close to me, just as the wing tips went by me someone
yells go inverted now... Well, next thing I know I'm rolling it over inverted
about a foot away from the pit/runway fence... Safety wise that's not a great
idea and or a smart thing to do.. So many things can go wrong at the wrong
time, But the biggest problem is getting someone hurt or.... Safety People!!

Jack211

Raideron, again, all good words. The only way I've been able to check myself--and keep SAFETY primary in my flying--is by thinking about it as a PROCESS, each step of which must be checked off and often repeated. I fly every day, weather permitting (less than 30 mph gusts, 1/2 mile visibility, no rain) all seasons. I've never written it down, but I should. It goes in our heads and we HOPE we've caught everything.

Flight-line etiquette and AMA frequency rules are followed without saying. I fly mostly alone, but those few of us here who do fly know one another and have bought radios with different frequencies. The only FREQUENCY problem I've ever had was when I one day took both my Futabas (I use one for gliders only) same frequency. I forgot to turn one off when I returned it to the Jeep. When I range checked my OTHER radio for the next flight, the servos on the plane went berserk--another reason for range checks.

We survived all last winter, my buddy and I, without a voltmeter--and NEVER had a problem, though we often flew our birds for 50 air minutes or more. NOW I find, with the voltmeter, that's PUSHING it--with a four bat 600 mAh flight pack And I've also learned to monitor the performance of my batteries--but I haven't committed all that to paper, numbering the batteries, giving each its own history, when purchased, etc. I should. [Last week I had a noisy aileron servo in my Magic, and despite a good bat check (564--no load), in the 35th minute of flight time (3rd flight), I lost BAT power on board. I sensed what it was immediately. I was lucky to get the plane to the field. The ailerons and throttle worked, but the rudder and elevator wouldn't. Bat check showed 420 (with load)--should be AT LEAST 475.] So when the plane goes on the table, MY first job is to check the bat with the voltmeter--and either keep a monitor on board or RECHECK the bat in a long flying session--even if you have to take off the wing to do it. That was my problem, laziness--and I paid the price with the Magic--a broken prop, carb, and mainifold.


Given the batteries have been charged and checked, RX and TX, I start preflights scrutinizing the mechanical connections of servos, horns, clevises and keepers. I move each control surface by HAND to feel if the servos are still tight (esp. the ones I can't see on board)--and for broken or loose hinges. [I found one aileron servo on an Uproar had broken gear teeth that way-- hangar rash?] THEN I put the wing on, if necessary, making sure the aileron leads aren't pinched under the wing and are clear of all servo arms. I check each landing gear screw and wheel keepers, too. I grab the engine and try to twist it and the carbureator, then the prop, checking for looseness anywhere. [I actually DID lose a Super Tigre .45 carb in flight once. Believe it.]

I turn on the RX, TX. and check the model number. [The number of the plane is taped just behind the firewall, with my name, address, phone, and AMA #. I check to be sure the model number on the TX and plane are the same--and I've taught my buddies to ask me if it is so [I've flown as many as six planes in one session], then I walk away from the plane for a range check. This, too, is when I check proper direction of all surfaces. [You fly with ailerons reversed just ONCE (like me), then you ALWAYS check not only for movement and response (high rates show up then, too, likewise flaperons/spoilerons if you have them) and DIRECTION.]

At the plane again I check for reasonable trim on all surfaces, then turn off the RX, TX, and gas up, watching for weaknesses in the fuel and pressure lines.

[When I maiden a bird, I ALWAYS wait until someone else is there to check out all the connections, throws, trims, center of gravity, etc. Four eyes and two brains are better.]

Power on TX; power on RX (check again control surface movement and throttle); power on glow: PROP, PROP, PROP!

Clear to start the engine, TIMER ON! Secure starter. Get behind prop. Remove and secure glow igniter. Warm it up, 30 seconds minimum, 15 of which are at full throttle for glow engines.

Check control surfaces again. Beware of getting your aerial or wind ribbon near the prop. Then do the pinch test for glow engines (tach test for 4 cycle if new).

Idle back, wait 15, then give full throttle to check for response. Check the field. Look at radio to check for power, correct model number (again!), aerial extended fully, flaps off, low rates on.

Check the wind. Because we have no "club" field, I fly mostly out of "shoeboxes," small fields, lots of trees and baseball fences around, so before I even get in the air, I'm asking myself, "Where do I want to fly so if I flame-out, I can get back to the field?" At a new field I make sure to check for problem poles, trees, wires, vehicles, flight lines, etc.

Then I pick up the plane (or have it picked up). With a new or questionable engine, we test full throttle response in the verticle plane. Then I take a deep breath, make a visual check of everything again, on the plane and on the field, then taxi and take off.

Within 10 seconds I always do a full roll, plus a hard turn, or something ELSE to check all is well aboard the bird. It's usually in the first minute of flight that something goes wrong--even if you've preflighted well. Might as well check everything while safely away from the flight line.

ALWAYS be ready to yell for a "HEADS UP!" if something goes wrong and you lose control.

95% of crashes are caused by poor preflight checks. It pays HUGE dividends, safety being the first, to do them right.

There are probably dozens of things I'm not mentioning. Please help me. Add them. For example, ALWAYS make sure you can kill your engine aloft. We have both dogs and kids who occasionally come into the area, out of control. We get down IMMEDIATELY and generally kill the engine before touch down, just in case a dog plans to chase a plane--and lose his nose in the prop.

Jack