AncientCityFlyer

FB, I used Fourmost cockpit coaming from tower. It's a bit tricky to install it. I found warming it up slightly with a heat gun on "low" helped.
Here's a link for it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG861&P=0

ACF

Free Bird

Which size did you use? Thanks for the info and continued good luck with your Waco.

FB

lablover

Fixed my nose over issue. It normally takes 67 cranks on my hand fuel pump to fill the tank. I reduced it to 50 pumps and 8 min flights. No way she wants to nose over now! get the smmooottthest landings ever. No need to fill the tank I guess unless you plan to fly like an hour straight

AncientCityFlyer

FB, I used the 1/4" size. ACF

Free Bird

Thanks ACF!

FB

skylarkmk1

Guys,

Go on over to the WACO YMF thread, I just post a few picture of some of the Wacos that were at the American Waco Club Fly In at Creve Coeur this year.

skillet92

Guys what size pilots are yall finding that works good?? Any Ideas on where to get some good ones? I have got the hang of flying this plane and want to finish her out with a pilot and a scarf!!

Stickbuilder

Well, for starters, your plane would be 1/5th scale, if it were scale.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Pilot P51

My Feedback: (6)

Go to Ace of Iron pilots. I used the 1/5" scale WWI pilot.
Walt

skillet92

Thanks guys!! P51, Great site! They also have a nice looking Pilot for my Corsair that I just finished!!!

n6iap

I just ordered the Great Planes WACO and it is in route to its new home. Guess I need or should have, a WACO member number. I'll read what has been posted and update with my thoughts as I build.

Thanks,

jimm

skillet92

Jimm you are going to love it. What engine are you going to power it with? I love mine and the way that it flys.

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

skillet, cannonball200 here;;;; did you use y-harness's for your aileron's or seperate channel's?

thanks,

skillet92

I used 2 y harnesses. I mixed the aileron channel with the gear channel. I then put one y harness on the top wing and just put the one wire out. I ran a y harness from the aileron to the bottom wings servo wires and a 12" servo extension from the gear channel out to the top wing. That way I only have one wire that can be seen. Remember correctly I had to change one of the channels direction in the mix function so that they would all go the way the needed to. I can check when I get home tonight if you want.

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

Thanks, Your answer made my decision to do it the way you did. I will get it hooked up today.
Your flying pictures made me get going.
Thanks,
Eddie

Pilot P51

My Feedback: (6)

Cannonball
I ran the same set up as Skillet92, it is the simplest set up. I haven't flown mine yet still waiting on the engine.
Walt

mmn

My Feedback: (4)

Just mounting the engine. This thing seems to have some up thrust built into the firewall. Anyone else seeing that? (No, I don't have it upside down!)

Regards
Michael

cannonball200

My Feedback: (36)

pilot 51; I agree it is a simple way to set it up. I got the top right aileron working already...last evening. The Dle 20 is already mounted, just need to hook up the fuel lines and throttle linkage-servo. The tail is all done except for a screw or so. I made up a pull-pull tail wheel out of several parts and it works great.

skillet92

I don't remember any and it does not fly like it has any in it. I have aDLE 30 rear carb version and mounted it just like the plans showed. Flies great. Might check mine when I get home just to see. You have perked my interest.

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

I'm surprised this plane isn't getting more attention. Its a really good looking plane (show stopper at the field), well-engineered, and flies well although I suppose the price may be keeping people away. I just maidened mine this past weekend and couldn't be happier. I used an OS 1.60 twin which fits the cowl perfectly and has just the right amount of power. I did have to build a motor box because of the short, integral motor mount that the 1.60 comes with but it was pretty straightforward. The only change I made was to discard the lock nuts that are supplied for all of the strut attach points and instead soldered 4-40 nuts to the brackets. Makes assembly and disassembly a snap and they actually hold better than the lock nuts. I also installed the Foremost Cockpit Coaming like ACF did and it really dresses up the cockpit openings. Well worth the buck or two.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

RB, pictures PLEASE! especially of the soldered nuts detail

thanks

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

RB,

Vasek asked for you to post some pictures of the soldered nuts and I would like to also ask if you could tell us the preparation and actual process that you used to solder the nuts in place. I try hard to do a good job soldering but, the truth is that no matter what I do it never gets any better than average so any help you can provide in the way of directions would be most appreciated.

Thanks Howard

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

Give me a day or two to get some pictures and post them with an explanation. It was really quite simple. Also, for those of you setting up the aileron servo connections to Y together the servos as top-wing/bottom-wing, rather than left-side/right-side, while you'll only have 1 wire exiting the top wing, you do lose the ability to electronically mix your aileron differential and will be forced to do it mechanically.

leedees

Electronic mixing of the aileron differential is important in my book.

There's a review of this GP Waco in the July issue of the AMA Model Aviation magazine. Tom Sullivan notes as I have proposed that the model is overpowered with the OS 95AX. I am still thinking to fly mine with the OS FS95 and have a nice clean cowl, good sound and nearer to scale flight.

Here's the page with Youtube flight video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mNdxxLRdMo

Build video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq1Oh9Ml2kA

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

OK, here's a picture of the soldered on 4-40 nuts that I used in place of the supplied lock nuts. I didn't bother roughing up the brackets because they were so nice and shiny I didn't want to ruin the look. All I did was to remove the bracket from the plane, wipe it down with alcohol to remove any grease and then put some flux around the hole where the nut would be attached. Then, I took an alloy (black) 4-40 socket head screw (solder won't adhere to them) and a normal 4-40 nut and screwed them onto the bracket so the 4-40 nut was where the lock nut would normally go. Heat it up with your soldering iron and run a bead of solder around the nut. After its cooled down, remove the socket head bolt and reinstall the bracket on your plane. Simple

If your upper wing is already glued together (like mine was), you'll have to solder the nuts for the 4 upper cabane brackets with the brackets installed in the wing because there's no way to get them off wing. I did it and didn't have any problem. Just keep a damp rag handy and as soon as you take the soldering iron away, you can use the damp rag to wick the heat away from the bracket. Just don't hit the covering with the soldering iron.

If you're worried about your soldering skills, the worst thing that will happen is that the nut will fall off when you take the plane apart and you can re-solder it. Its not going to come off in flight. I have probably 8 flights so far and haven't had any problem with mine.