Igot my new project and can't seam to find much on RCU about it, so if any are interested in a build thread let me know, I will be starting on it Monday. I will be putting a DLE55 in for power and right away I noticed the already glued inhinges aren't to my liking, I plan on cutting them out and doing my own thing...

If anyone hasthis plane, please join in with youideas and pics...

Jimbo</p>

I really like the Pitts Python and this new one is interesting. Will you need...do you plan to use multiple servos on any control surfaces?
Regards
JC

JC,
it calls for 8 servos, 4 on the wings, two for the Elv., one on the rudder and throttle...

I picked up my DLE 55 yesterday, but still haven't made up my mind on servos yet..

I need 8 for this plane, but have two other planes that need all the goodies, so price is a concern..
My guy at the LHS recommended Hyperion Atlas Servos, the price and specs both looked good to me..

$35.95 for the DS20-FMD which puts out 226 oz/in .13 sec on 6V, they are a digital servo and metal gear.
Anyone have any experience with these, I haven't been able to find out much about them...


Jimbo

I have a gen 2

It has a history outlined on FG, you'll need to read through a few pages
Flying,,Giants > Giant Scale Planes > Airframes and Kits > GW (Goldwing RC) airplanes > post 296


and the rebuild here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10620644/tm.htm

I also re-hinged the elevators because the stock hinges started to get sloppy.

Glad you got her back together, looks good... Who's pilot is that, looks real good?

Thanks,

It's a Hanger 9 25-28%
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...te-blue-HAN365

Thanks buddy........

My shop in the basement is under construction, by me, so I built my new benches first.. Here is a couple pics of them, pretty happy how they turned out.. The shop in coming along, still have some work, but it's coming along..

On to the pitts!!!!

I took out all the goodies and just did a quick fit to get the juices flowing, there is a couple issues... But first the good pics....

I have a few issues that I need to call Gary at GMP about on Monday and see if we can get them taken care of..

The first is the canopy turtle deck. In the first pick you can see where the paint is cracked and the fit to the cowl is poor, it is also to high at the back and to wide at spots on the fuse... I could live with the paint, a little ca and a decal and it is good as new. But with the poor fit, I will talk with Gary and see if there is anything we can do...

I also have three cracks in the paint on the cowl, tried to take pics but they didn't turn out.. They are on the top side and I plan on getting a big DLE55decal for the nose, so it should cover the problems.. The last pic shows where they left out the wood in front of the center strut on one side, I can fix that pretty easy..

I am pretty impressed with the hardware, unlike most arf's where you shuck the hardware back in a bin and get good stuff.. The HW that comes with the plane looks pretty good and I will use most of it, I will probably shuck the tank though.. I like the looks of the new RotoFlow and think I will try one... http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html

Jimbo

The canopy fits the same on mine, although it's black so the gap isn't as noticeable.

I've been using the OEM tank without any issues since I took it apart and re-built it, the stopper did come loose on me, It just wasn't tightened enough, but that was my bad assuming the guy I got the plane from built it right in the first place.

Looks like they changed the horns, mine has the bolt style control horn hardware

Did you read my all posts over on that FG thread? Some things there to consider looking for in the wing tube areas, I don't want to clutter or hijack your thread here re-posting it

Something I would invest in if you don't already have, is a good set of Allen and Nut drivers, they make the 12 bolt strut assembly much easier and quicker

Thanks again, for the heads up.. I read all of the post and seen the vid on how you repaired the first wing, I will stick a tape in mine later tonight and see how far it goes in on the center section... I have the V3 version and it's got CF tubes for both wings, the fit was pretty good when I put it together last night, but I will go over it with a fine tooth comb..

If you don't mind, I would like to pick your brain a bit on thebuild of mine since you have one.. The manual still has me laughing, after reading the cover, which made no sense what so ever, I opened it up and this is what it said " BERORE you begin" Soda shot out my nose!!!!!

No problem, I'm subscribed so ask away, I'll help if I can

Actually, you made a good choice going with the Yellow, the black airframe really is more difficult to see sometimes,, it silhouettes fast when between the sun and the flight line,

I took some pics of the top center section and the tube does go through the third rib and hits the stop ring on the aft side of the rib.. It sure was a pain in the butt to get the bottom wings on, very tight.. I actually had to put the left wing on and slide theCF tube in, I will work on this to make it an easier task. The tube slides in the panel fine, so it's an alignment problem.. I also have to tweak the top wing holes at the center section a little, not a big issue..


I do see what you mean about the 12 screws that attach the top wing and the cabanes, this was a task in the comforts of my shop, I can only imagine what itis like at the field in 90 degree heat!! Mine are a cheap philip's head with the built in washer with a 5.5mill lock nut on the back, this is being changed for sure.. I think I will make a ply piece on the the nut side and have the nuts locked into the ply and then change to a good allen cap screw...

This is to funny, I had to post this. The manual is pretty much useless!!!!!


What the hell did they just say!!!!!!

Scale,
what motor do you have in yours? I went with the DLE55, going to mount it today.. Was just wondering how you did the cooling on yours.. It calls for a 3-4" spinner, which I still haven't decided on yet..

She fits captain, but it needs some cooling holes...lol

Yeah,, just look at the pictures, LOL
It's obvious the used a computer translation program,, too cheap to hire some one bilingual


I dumped the crappy hardware and use 3mm Allen bolt/nuts. the nut/bolts and wrenches are from when I was racing rc cars,, good tools and good harware is a must

I've been flying it with a Brison 3.2, the original owner had a DLE55 also, the brison fit with no additional cutting,, Lets just say the OO wasn't afraid to remove fiberglass.. I do have a new cowl for this,, maybe I'll replace i t,, that's ugly,, good thing it's on the bottom,, LOL

plenty of entrance air flow with a 3.5" spinner

10/4 on that......... Do you ever have a problem with the screws holding the center section to the struts coming loose? Being they are upside down and just go into a blind nut, it has me thinking it might be a problem...

Yeah I see what you mean. lol
The 3.5" spinner looks like a good fit for the plane, thanks for posting the pics..

Jimbo

No, I use the same allen bolts and crank them down tight,, so far never had one come loose

Thanks a bunch, I think it will go into my pre flight to do a quick check of all the screws....

Had to pick up another plane today, a hangar 9 katana 50, to replace my reactor I busted up pretty bad yesterday.....

Well Ihad to doanother plane and that's done so I jumped back on the pitts today. I figured I would get the motor mounted and start from there, being the manual is useless, I am going to just address everything as if I built it. Set up the motor first, then move on to the control surfaces and so on...

<span style="color: #ff0000">The more I get into this plane the more it starts smelling like dog crap....
</span>

Here is how they glued the firewall in to the motor box, besides packing some epoxy in the gaps there is not much I can do, they have tristock glued in on the inside. I might pin it with some 1/8" dowel rod just to be on the safe side...

Jimbo