Goldwing 50cc Pitts Python V3.
#27
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The next problem is the fit of the top wing panels to the center, not to good at all.. The screw goes through the metal strut and into a blind nut that is installed on the wing panel. I will have to rework this or make it a one piece wing, we will see how it goes...
Jimbo
Jimbo
#28
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Here is how the cowl looks from the front when installed, look at the silver stripes and how far they are off.. I know it's consmetic and I will be the only one that will notice it, but it's the point.. I am just giving my honest opinion on everything so others can get good honest info on the plane..
Jimbo
Jimbo
#29
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Here you can see I have the motor mounted, the guide that came with the plane was for a DA or a 3W so I just made my own.. Pretty straight forward, but I do think I will get some shorter standoffs (about a 5/8" shorter) to get the motor further back.. I have no idea where they want it as there is no parts on mounting the motor in the manual...
Jimbo
Jimbo
#32
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ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
Yikes,,, a friday afternoon built fuse,, no excuse for that
I alway pin the firewall anyway,, I use bamboo skewers,, stronger than wood dowels,, and my wife always has them in the kitchen
good luck
Yikes,,, a friday afternoon built fuse,, no excuse for that
I alway pin the firewall anyway,, I use bamboo skewers,, stronger than wood dowels,, and my wife always has them in the kitchen

good luck
I don't think I everasked you how yours is in the air.. I am at a crossroad as to if I will just slap the thing together, or do it up right... Your answer to my question will push me one way or another, so be honest...lol

#33
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I see the problem on the upper wing and how they meet to the center section...
The blind nut is in the wing as you can see in the pic, and the screw goes through the bracket and center section and into the blind nut.. The problem is that they did a crap job drilling it out, should be an easy fix.. Worst case is I put a piece of CF over the key slot and drill a new hole in the right spot...
Jimbo
The blind nut is in the wing as you can see in the pic, and the screw goes through the bracket and center section and into the blind nut.. The problem is that they did a crap job drilling it out, should be an easy fix.. Worst case is I put a piece of CF over the key slot and drill a new hole in the right spot...
Jimbo
#34
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Another QC issue, this is the fit of the rudder to the fuse...
I'm really not one to complain about things, but I'm sure you find that hard tobelieve with all the post I put up on thebad things..
<span style="color: #ff0000">Is this normal for GoldWing planes, or did I get a lemon?
</span>
Their site also said the fuse was 80", well I am 70 1/2" with out spinner.. They also said removable stabs on a CF tube, well my one piece stab is flat, maybe there is a CF tube onthe inside...lol
I'm really not one to complain about things, but I'm sure you find that hard tobelieve with all the post I put up on thebad things..
<span style="color: #ff0000">Is this normal for GoldWing planes, or did I get a lemon?
</span>
Their site also said the fuse was 80", well I am 70 1/2" with out spinner.. They also said removable stabs on a CF tube, well my one piece stab is flat, maybe there is a CF tube onthe inside...lol
#35

My Feedback: (158)
Seams to me you're making good decisions.
They fly very good,, the only quirk is it doesn't have great ailerons athority in the hover being the ailerons are so far outboard from the fuse and prop wash. If you like to torque roll, you have the right plane
They fly very good,, the only quirk is it doesn't have great ailerons athority in the hover being the ailerons are so far outboard from the fuse and prop wash. If you like to torque roll, you have the right plane
#37

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From: Va Beach, VA
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
I am pretty impressed with the hardware, unlike most arf's where you shuck the hardware back in a bin and get good stuff.. The HW that comes with the plane looks pretty good and I will use most of it, I will probably shuck the tank though.. I like the looks of the new RotoFlow and think I will try one... http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html
Jimbo
I am pretty impressed with the hardware, unlike most arf's where you shuck the hardware back in a bin and get good stuff.. The HW that comes with the plane looks pretty good and I will use most of it, I will probably shuck the tank though.. I like the looks of the new RotoFlow and think I will try one... http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html
Jimbo
#38
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ORIGINAL: airega1
I like the idea of the rotoflow tanks but concerned about the longevity of the swivel clunk seal. After a season or 2 of flying will the engine begin sucking air through the seal?
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
I am pretty impressed with the hardware, unlike most arf's where you shuck the hardware back in a bin and get good stuff.. The HW that comes with the plane looks pretty good and I will use most of it, I will probably shuck the tank though.. I like the looks of the new RotoFlow and think I will try one... http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html
Jimbo
I am pretty impressed with the hardware, unlike most arf's where you shuck the hardware back in a bin and get good stuff.. The HW that comes with the plane looks pretty good and I will use most of it, I will probably shuck the tank though.. I like the looks of the new RotoFlow and think I will try one... http://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html
Jimbo
#39

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From: Va Beach, VA
Hey mustangman, sorry to see all the extra work you need to do, too bad the manufacturer's not as dilligent as you are. You seem to have the situation at hand but don't second guess anything, especially stress points. bathtub caulk in the squeeze tube will work wonders blending in that dorsal fin, but you're going to need paint.
And there's no excuse for those cowl lines, that would drive me crazy because it's noticable.
And there's no excuse for those cowl lines, that would drive me crazy because it's noticable.
#40

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From: Va Beach, VA
The firewall looks hefty, but don't overlook where the motorbox goes through the first former, I've seen plenty of failures at this point! especially with all that leverage you have with those long standoffs
#41
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ORIGINAL: airega1
Hey mustangman, sorry to see all the extra work you need to do, too bad the manufacturer's not as dilligent as you are. You seem to have the situation at hand but don't second guess anything, especially stress points. bathtub caulk in the squeeze tube will work wonders blending in that dorsal fin, but you're going to need paint.
And there's no excuse for those cowl lines, that would drive me crazy because it's noticable.
Hey mustangman, sorry to see all the extra work you need to do, too bad the manufacturer's not as dilligent as you are. You seem to have the situation at hand but don't second guess anything, especially stress points. bathtub caulk in the squeeze tube will work wonders blending in that dorsal fin, but you're going to need paint.
And there's no excuse for those cowl lines, that would drive me crazy because it's noticable.

The hinging is a big issue, I am going to have to cut off all the control surfaces and open up the covering on the bottom side. I will take picks in a bit, this one has me pretty upset..........
#42
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This should be the last of the problems, I hope...
The hinges are glued in at the factory on everything except the stabilizer, since you have to slide thestab. into the fuse and glue in place...
Here is a pick of the hinges that they are using and the quality sucks on them, if you grab it and pull out wards from the joint, it moves almost 1/32" and what ever glue they used on them at the factory has bound them up but good.. Some of them are moving when you work the control surface, really piss poor if you ask me... The Hinge gap is also unacceptable to me, almost an 1/8" in places then add in the movement of the hinge and you see where I am coming from on this.. This gets better!
The hinges are glued in at the factory on everything except the stabilizer, since you have to slide thestab. into the fuse and glue in place...
Here is a pick of the hinges that they are using and the quality sucks on them, if you grab it and pull out wards from the joint, it moves almost 1/32" and what ever glue they used on them at the factory has bound them up but good.. Some of them are moving when you work the control surface, really piss poor if you ask me... The Hinge gap is also unacceptable to me, almost an 1/8" in places then add in the movement of the hinge and you see where I am coming from on this.. This gets better!
#43
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One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8" thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
Jimbo
#44
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I think for the tail the sulution will be a flat hinge, I will use the bigger ones on the ail. and the smaller ones on the tail...
<span style="color: #ff0000">This is sure turning out to be a lot of extra work, but It must be done.. If I just slapped this thing together and something let loose that I could have fixed and it hurt someone, I would hate myself...
</span>
Redwing is getting a nice long letter about all of the problems and i will try and use the same language they use in the manual so they can understand it...
This is my first RW plane and i have a feeling i got stuck with something a beginner did, I have heard a lot of good things about their planes so i was kind of surprised at everything I am finding, just my luck..
Jimbo
<span style="color: #ff0000">This is sure turning out to be a lot of extra work, but It must be done.. If I just slapped this thing together and something let loose that I could have fixed and it hurt someone, I would hate myself...
</span>
Redwing is getting a nice long letter about all of the problems and i will try and use the same language they use in the manual so they can understand it...

This is my first RW plane and i have a feeling i got stuck with something a beginner did, I have heard a lot of good things about their planes so i was kind of surprised at everything I am finding, just my luck..
Jimbo
#45
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I know most of you reading this will call me crazy for what I am about to say, but this is how i feel..
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... 
I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
#46
Senior Member
What did you decide on for servos? I looked at my GP Ultimate 160 (ZDZ 50cc), I went with HS 645MG's in the wings and throttle , Power HD 9150's on the tail.
#47

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From: El Reno, OK
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
I know most of you reading this will call me crazy for what I am about to say, but this is how i feel..
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... 
I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
I know most of you reading this will call me crazy for what I am about to say, but this is how i feel..
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
I know the 30cc lineup is later in their experience, and I think the Pitts you have was when they were learning. I'm glad you're keeping it after all the work - my bet is that it will fly very nicely and reward you for the efforts.
I'm not chiming in to debate or derail your thread - I just wanted to point out what I've found with their 30cc bird.
#48
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ORIGINAL: OldFart1
What did you decide on for servos? I looked at my GP Ultimate 160 (ZDZ 50cc), I went with HS 645MG's in the wings and throttle , Power HD 9150's on the tail.
What did you decide on for servos? I looked at my GP Ultimate 160 (ZDZ 50cc), I went with HS 645MG's in the wings and throttle , Power HD 9150's on the tail.
I just bought two of their micros for the elv. on a hangar9 Katana 50 that I just did and they center verynice and are quick..
I will let you know how I like the ones I'm getting for the pitts.
Jimbo<font size="5"></font>
#49
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ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello
Jimbo - I read this thread, because I am just now finishing a Goldwing 30cc Yak 55M. There have been what I would call "normal" and "minor"ARF-issues with mine, but not anything to write letter about. Purchased from TBM. Quality of covering and paint is 10+, IMO, parts fit VERY good, alignments right on the money (normal stab tweaking to match wings). Hinge blocks at every hinge point drilled, but, alas, EVERY one of them was not on center of hinge line, so replaced all with Radio SOuth Pro Hinges (flat CA type) since mine is e-power.
I know the 30cc lineup is later in their experience, and I think the Pitts you have was when they were learning. I'm glad you're keeping it after all the work - my bet is that it will fly very nicely and reward you for the efforts.
I'm not chiming in to debate or derail your thread - I just wanted to point out what I've found with their 30cc bird.
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
I know most of you reading this will call me crazy for what I am about to say, but this is how i feel..
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... 
I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
I know most of you reading this will call me crazy for what I am about to say, but this is how i feel..
I still like this plane!!!!
I will work through the problems and have a blast flying the crap out of it... I spoke to GMP about the cowl and the canopy and he is working on getting me replacements, I know he just sells them, but is making sure i am happy with it, very good CS in my book and I won't hesitate to do business with him again in the future...
I have some plans to really dress this plane up and make it my own, I hope you all will follow along with your knowledge and opinions...
Jimbo
I know the 30cc lineup is later in their experience, and I think the Pitts you have was when they were learning. I'm glad you're keeping it after all the work - my bet is that it will fly very nicely and reward you for the efforts.
I'm not chiming in to debate or derail your thread - I just wanted to point out what I've found with their 30cc bird.
thank you for joining in with that, those are the comments that I seen a lot on RW as far as quality.. I don't mind having to do things on ARF's to a point, in the end, as long as i am happy with the results, all is good.. My letter to them will be more to help others from having to deal with the things I am going through, at least i hope that it will help, I don't know what kind of company they really are yet.. Got any picks of your YAK, feel free to post away...

Jimb
#50

My Feedback: (158)
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo


