Goldwing 50cc Pitts Python V3.
#51
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ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I ended up changing the elevator hinges also, they did get sloppy,, sorry I forgot to mention that before, I used those same robart hinges and they've help up just fine. I have no fear they'll ever pull out
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
I was right in my thinking then, thanks for confirming my thoughts on them...
We have our club meeting tonight, I'm going to bringthe pitts for show and tell.. Figure I will show themthe plane now and then when i finish it..
Jimbo
#52

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From: El Reno, OK
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Scale,
I was right in my thinking then, thanks for confirming my thoughts on them...
We have our club meeting tonight, I'm going to bringthe pitts for show and tell.. Figure I will show themthe plane now and then when i finish it..
Jimbo
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I ended up changing the elevator hinges also, they did get sloppy,, sorry I forgot to mention that before, I used those same robart hinges and they've help up just fine. I have no fear they'll ever pull out
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
One thing you might notice is the TE of the Stab and the LE of the ELV., the covering is kind of transparent and you can see that they didn't add any hinge blocks to the 5/8'' thick TE/LE... I tried a Robart hinge point and it will only grab with two barbs, not good.. The rudder is the same way, no blocking for a pin style hinge....
Jimbo
I was right in my thinking then, thanks for confirming my thoughts on them...
We have our club meeting tonight, I'm going to bringthe pitts for show and tell.. Figure I will show themthe plane now and then when i finish it..
Jimbo
I'm sure that yours will work out great!!!!!!
#54
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ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello
Jimbo - a few years' back, maybe '08 or so, I did the PeakModels' Python 50cc...reading your build and seeing the pics reminded me that many of the same things existed on that plane. The cowling stuff, the too many screws,<span style="color: #ff0000"> the short wing tube</span>, the engine hub location....I'm thinking there must be a universal "mother" Pitts Python in China that everyone used for the 50cc versions....Mine was the solid black almost - and the silhouetting in sun was a big problem. Yours will be a lot more visible. Mine flew VERY well, was incredibly fast and agile, would snap like no tomorrow, stop on a dime, and FLOATby at high speed on approach. We thought it would slow up, but it was plenty fast, and really very nice.
I'm sure that yours will work out great!!!!!!
Jimbo - a few years' back, maybe '08 or so, I did the PeakModels' Python 50cc...reading your build and seeing the pics reminded me that many of the same things existed on that plane. The cowling stuff, the too many screws,<span style="color: #ff0000"> the short wing tube</span>, the engine hub location....I'm thinking there must be a universal "mother" Pitts Python in China that everyone used for the 50cc versions....Mine was the solid black almost - and the silhouetting in sun was a big problem. Yours will be a lot more visible. Mine flew VERY well, was incredibly fast and agile, would snap like no tomorrow, stop on a dime, and FLOATby at high speed on approach. We thought it would slow up, but it was plenty fast, and really very nice.
I'm sure that yours will work out great!!!!!!

The mother pitts in china, now that's funny and i think your right.....

#55

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From: El Reno, OK
I want to be clear - the "short wing tube" simply meant that it looked pretty short (or I was expecting something longer), but at any rate - the length was plenty sufficient to the task. I think the way both wings tie together with the cabane assembly and the interplane struts it seemed quite strong. I had no issues due to it.</p>
#57
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ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
#58

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Mine has wire bracing,, I wouldn't recommend flying without some sort of bracing,, that's for sure. That would apply to any plane 120 size and up with a flat stock tail surface configuration
My ignition problem is just a moving hall sensor making the timing change, long story, I think I have it sorted out,, thanks
My ignition problem is just a moving hall sensor making the timing change, long story, I think I have it sorted out,, thanks
#59

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From: El Reno, OK
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
It is a lot of work, but totally alleviates that mental image of stab fluttering that creeps into your head at the first high speed roll or tumble...
#60
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ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello
FWIW - I agree w/ scale only 4 me - tail flutter of any kind would turn your beauty into a scrap heap in a heartbeat. One method I have used in the past is very carefully boring holes with a 3/8" diameter sharpened brass tube - by hand - at the appropriate intersections of framing pieces at l.e. and t.e of both fin and stab. Then, epoxy in hard 3/8" dowel that has been drilled through on centers for 4-40 bolts. Then, buy appropriate rigging, heavy steel cable, clevises, etc. and have a ball.
It is a lot of work, but totally alleviates that mental image of stab fluttering that creeps into your head at the first high speed roll or tumble...
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
It is a lot of work, but totally alleviates that mental image of stab fluttering that creeps into your head at the first high speed roll or tumble...
There does appear to be blocking installed for them, i will take a pic later and post it up..
Bob, good tips on how to do it right. Thank you!
Jimbo
#62

My Feedback: (158)
I just talked with my buddy who I bought the Pitts from,, he tells me it didn't come with anything but the top post for the wire,, his instructions showed just the fin supported by the wire on top of the Stab., but nothing supporting the bottom of the stab,, he got parts via Tower and fabricated the wire set up himself,, this is what he used
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGP3&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLZ1&P=SM
Personally I'd probably use a different system or heavier gauge wire at least,, I already have had to replace one wire because the set screw pinches the wire enough to make it break
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGP3&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCLZ1&P=SM
Personally I'd probably use a different system or heavier gauge wire at least,, I already have had to replace one wire because the set screw pinches the wire enough to make it break
#63
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Thanks a bunch, the pics help a bunch too... I guess GW didn't think that hardware was that important, why on earth would they want a plane to last...lol
I am still waiting to hear back from GMP on the cowl and canopy, I sure hope I don't get stuck with the two crap ones that came with the plane. Time will tell on that one..
Just about have everything researched, time to order the rest of the goodies so I can get this plane in the air. I think why I am waiting for stuff to come in, I will pimp out the covering job.. It needs more then just the basic Bulldog job it has on it now.........
Jimbo

I am still waiting to hear back from GMP on the cowl and canopy, I sure hope I don't get stuck with the two crap ones that came with the plane. Time will tell on that one..
Just about have everything researched, time to order the rest of the goodies so I can get this plane in the air. I think why I am waiting for stuff to come in, I will pimp out the covering job.. It needs more then just the basic Bulldog job it has on it now.........

Jimbo
#64

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I've been curious what progress your making,, I took mine out a few weeks ago and had trouble again with my Brison, so I picked up a DLE,, Now I see why the guy cut so much fiberglass away,, it was to get the cowl over the muffler,, he still took way more off than needed,, but if it had a wrap around pitts muffler,, the cut out could be much smaller. I might order one and cut install the new cowl I have
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic,, can't find my camera,,
Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic,, can't find my camera,,
#65
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ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I've been curious what progress your making,, I took mine out a few weeks ago and had trouble again with my Brison, so I picked up a DLE,, Now I see why the guy cut so much fiberglass away,, it was to get the cowl over the muffler,, he still took way more off than needed,, but if it had a wrap around pitts muffler,, the cut out could be much smaller. I might order one and cut install the new cowl I have
Pictue loader not working [:@]
I've been curious what progress your making,, I took mine out a few weeks ago and had trouble again with my Brison, so I picked up a DLE,, Now I see why the guy cut so much fiberglass away,, it was to get the cowl over the muffler,, he still took way more off than needed,, but if it had a wrap around pitts muffler,, the cut out could be much smaller. I might order one and cut install the new cowl I have
Pictue loader not working [:@]
still haven't heard nothing back from GMP about the problems with my cowl and canopy, so it's kind of on hold.. It's funny how fast folks are when you got money that they want, after that, your the last person they want to here from... Our last phone call he was going to call me back after he found out something on the parts, that was well over a month ago... Post up some pics when RCU lets ya..........
#66

My Feedback: (158)
Had to go the photo bucket way,, I'm torn,, do I really want to invest money into a muffler for this plane??
I guess I will,, I'll use this motor in other planes in the future
p.s.
When my buddy had the issue with the top wing,, it took almost 3 months to get GW to send him the new top wing set,, I was surprised they did actually
I guess I will,, I'll use this motor in other planes in the future
p.s.
When my buddy had the issue with the top wing,, it took almost 3 months to get GW to send him the new top wing set,, I was surprised they did actually
#67
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From: Victoria, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Another QC issue, this is the fit of the rudder to the fuse...
I'm really not one to complain about things, but I'm sure you find that hard tobelieve with all the post I put up on thebad things..
<span style="color: #ff0000">Is this normal for GoldWing planes, or did I get a lemon?
</span>
Their site also said the fuse was 80", well I am 70 1/2" with out spinner.. They also said removable stabs on a CF tube, well my one piece stab is flat, maybe there is a CF tube onthe inside...lol
Another QC issue, this is the fit of the rudder to the fuse...
I'm really not one to complain about things, but I'm sure you find that hard tobelieve with all the post I put up on thebad things..
<span style="color: #ff0000">Is this normal for GoldWing planes, or did I get a lemon?
</span>
Their site also said the fuse was 80", well I am 70 1/2" with out spinner.. They also said removable stabs on a CF tube, well my one piece stab is flat, maybe there is a CF tube onthe inside...lol
I will measure mine up, but mine has no mention of removeable stab with carbon tune
i reckon thats a cut and paste overlook from the other models (i have a 50cc GW sbach flies superb and a few other 50 size GW's)<br type="_moz" />
#68
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From: Victoria, AUSTRALIA
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
I flew mine today for the first time since the rebuilt,, all went well with the airframe,, but had ignition issues again,, I'll get it sorted out for next time.
Good to here you got her back in the air again, hope you get your ignition problem worked out...
Question for you and Bob,
are you guys using flying wires on the stab? Mine didn't come with anything and it doesn't show anything in the manual.. To me the stab seems week, a lot of flex if you just lift the tail from the tips and mine doesn't have any gear in the tail yet.. I plan on using them on mine, not sure how I will set them up yet though.
Jimbo
<br type="_moz" />
#69
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ORIGINAL: STATUS TUNING
The fly wires are what bought me to this thread mine has some nice fittings for the stab but no instructions on how to fit them. I wanted to see where they are being placed to be most effective..
<br type="_moz" />
The fly wires are what bought me to this thread mine has some nice fittings for the stab but no instructions on how to fit them. I wanted to see where they are being placed to be most effective..
<br type="_moz" />
mine is the yellow one and the covering is semi transparent, you can see the mounting blocks in the stab and finon mine.. I will try and get a pic or two for you this eve to help show where they are...
Jimbo
#70

My Feedback: (158)
Had mine out 2 times this week breaking in the new dle55,, it worked great,, small tweaking of the needles but then it started acting funny after 2 tanks,, and then again the next time out,, Ign, sputtering... Ends up when I checked the voltage of the ign pack it was 5.4 so I figures it was fully charged,, well after it got down to 4.8 I charged it,, It came up to almost 7volts off the charger,, Duuh I forgot I used a 5 cell pack,,, 35+ years in the hobby and I still make a rookie error once in a while..
Ran great once properly charged
Ran great once properly charged
#71
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
Had mine out 2 times this week breaking in the new dle55,, it worked great,, small tweaking of the needles but then it started acting funny after 2 tanks,, and then again the next time out,, Ign, sputtering... Ends up when I checked the voltage of the ign pack it was 5.4 so I figures it was fully charged,, well after it got down to 4.8 I charged it,, It came up to almost 7volts off the charger,, Duuh I forgot I used a 5 cell pack,,, 35+ years in the hobby and I still make a rookie error once in a while..
Ran great once properly charged
Had mine out 2 times this week breaking in the new dle55,, it worked great,, small tweaking of the needles but then it started acting funny after 2 tanks,, and then again the next time out,, Ign, sputtering... Ends up when I checked the voltage of the ign pack it was 5.4 so I figures it was fully charged,, well after it got down to 4.8 I charged it,, It came up to almost 7volts off the charger,, Duuh I forgot I used a 5 cell pack,,, 35+ years in the hobby and I still make a rookie error once in a while..
Ran great once properly charged
Jimbo
#73
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Ok, it's time to go ahead and put this thing together.. GMP has not taken care of the cowl and canopy issue and I am sick of waiting, I will have to fix the problems myself.. Ioriginally ordered the Ultimate they had marked down for 369.00, only to have him call me back later that day to tell me they screwed up and didn't have any left.. He told me he would sell me the pitts for the same price and honor the deal, so I got the plane for 369.00.. Heck of a deal i thought and that is why I have been so understanding about all the problems with the plane. But problems like the ones I have, should have been taken care of by GMP and were not.. Live and learn, it will be the last GW productand plane that I buy from GMP, period...
Jimbo
Jimbo
#74
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Anyone that has this plane, be very scared of the pre hinged surfaces.. Here is a pic of one that took very little force to pull apart, total junk IMHO... I decided to use the robart hinge points, large size on the wings and the smaller ones on the tail...
The first pic shows how bad the hinge gap is, almost an 1/8" in spots...
Pic two shows good hinges next to the crap they used, 3rd pic is how weak they really are....
The first pic shows how bad the hinge gap is, almost an 1/8" in spots...
Pic two shows good hinges next to the crap they used, 3rd pic is how weak they really are....
#75
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I am so glad mine were glued in crooked, forcing me to change them. After seeing how easy I was able to score them with and blade and pull the surface right off, there is no doubt that mine would have failed sooner or later.. I would really check yours out guys, hate to see you lose a plane over them...
To get them apart I just scored the top of the joint on all of them and work the surface to it's max and they all just broke apart.. Pics show how crooked they were installed, thus the major binding I had. Being they were not put in straight, they were stretching the little loops that go over the brass ringthat holds them together...
The fix won't be to bad, but work non the less... Using the larger Robart hinge points calls for a 3/16" hole, using a piece of 3/16" brass tubing on a drillto core them out is working great.. The tubing fits right over the old hinge and pulls out the old hinge like it was never there. If you end up doing this, make sure you take off the brass eyelet and as much of the hinge sticking out as possible and it will fit fight in the brass tubing..
Jimbo
To get them apart I just scored the top of the joint on all of them and work the surface to it's max and they all just broke apart.. Pics show how crooked they were installed, thus the major binding I had. Being they were not put in straight, they were stretching the little loops that go over the brass ringthat holds them together...
The fix won't be to bad, but work non the less... Using the larger Robart hinge points calls for a 3/16" hole, using a piece of 3/16" brass tubing on a drillto core them out is working great.. The tubing fits right over the old hinge and pulls out the old hinge like it was never there. If you end up doing this, make sure you take off the brass eyelet and as much of the hinge sticking out as possible and it will fit fight in the brass tubing..
Jimbo


