n8ksc,

Looks like you are particular to the U can 3-d planes!...

good photo.... It gives the size comparison of this plane.....

I too love the GeeBee R2.....

I have thought about picking up the Comp.ARF. Gee bee and stick a 250cc radial in it.....

It is obviously bigger.... Just wonder if that plane is also difficult to land>???

I might go for the QQ pitts M12 and place the engine in that airframe, pick up the GP geebee and install flaps.....

Justin

I currently do not have this plane......
If you are going to place that gas engine in this plane would you consider adding flaps???

I am not sure that anyone has done this to this plane....One would think that it would help greatly with the landing of this plane???????

Anyone that has this plane, can you look at the wing and tell me if there is any structure there to make flaps?????

Or would I have to re-engineeer the whole wing to make it work?????

Thanks guys.....

Justin

That's a whole lot of engine for a plane this size. Good luck finding your roller bearing.

Best solution might be to fabricate an airbrake flap for between the wheels. Definitely not scale, but a whole lot simpler to engineer.

Anybody want a REALLY BIG Byron/Iron Bay R-2?

Hi Justin,
Well I think all the problems people have with landing the gee bee is inproper setup (throws and CG) Mine flies like a dream very doscile and stable. You have to add a little more speed then lets say a extra or yak when landing but I have flown mine over 23 flites in cross winds and other conditions without a single misshap. I still believe that the Lateral and CG balance are of the utmost importance with this bird. The elevator control settings suggested in the manual from great planes in my opinion are wrong. I would decrease them by a third !! This baby also rolls and knife edges like no other plane I have flown. I also mounted my pants more forward then most people do and on bouncy landings the wheels do not contact the pants. I still cannot believe it flies as good as it does. As far as composite arfs 33% I have flown one and it flies even better (landings are a little slower then the GP R2) but very stable - Steve ANYBODY TRY TO FLY A BASSET HOUND LOL

[/quote]

Best solution might be to fabricate an airbrake flap for between the wheels. Definitely not scale, but a whole lot simpler to engineer.

Anybody want a REALLY BIG Byron/Iron Bay R-2?

[/quote]

1. How much? I was looking for one that I could place a big radial in it..... I think the geebee you have might support the RCS/moki 150 Radail??
how does that one balance out?
PM me and we will talk about it (your Bryan Geebee)!!!!!!

2.so sort of airbrake like the SBD Dauntless has on it's wings?? but under the bottom of the Geebee fuse??

Great dog. I had one for 14 years. Gentle old soul but STUBBORN his whole life. I miss ol' Clarence

I'll pm you with the details on the big R-2

Regarding the air brake suggestion, here are a couple of pictures of what I'm suggesting. This is on my Aeronca L. Just a simple flap that I control with the gear channel. Pretty effective at slowing it down.

Hey Gageebees, Thanx for the comment with regards to CHIEF my basset, Anyway PM me with regards to details on the big gee bee I am interested. - Steve

Just curious as to what runway demensions people are flying off of.. I know there are several that are having no issues with landings and others that are having a hard time.. Perhaps some of the problems are the type of field(Length, surface, etc..) that the planes are flown off of..

Rick

The problem is not so much as the field, but the wire used in the landing gear. If you research Henry Haffke's building technique for the gear you would note the balsa triangular filler block that supports the front and rear pieces of each gear. This block adds significant to the gear, thereby reducing the amount of forward and backward flex. IMHO, it is the flex that occurs during landing that allows the wheels to dig into the wheel pant and botches many a landing. The only other problem that I have witnessed with the Gee Bee Z and models R2 are the proper location of the CG. One would be well advised to compare the models cg with that of the full scale. I attempt to have the landing gear as far forward as possible with slightly heavier wheel assemblies to compensate. And finally, do try several landings before the fuel tank reaches the half empty point.

I agree with revo - I moved my gee bee pants forward and the wheels do not hit (even on some bouncy landings) I fly on a moderate grass field. Also I would recommend flying with the pants off a few times Just make sure to adjust the CG accordingly Steve

I haven't been able to find the building technique you're referring to. Can you post it (or a link to it)?

Thanks in advance.

Gee bee crash
http://youtube.com/watch?v=iTYnN6ZJGz0

Wow I didn't think they bounced like that ,Robart struts?

That's what you get when your AOA gets too high from overcorrection. He should have gone around before he passed the runway threshold since his approach wasn't yet stabilized. Any struts will bounce like that when you slam them against the ground.

Just regular struts, didnt think I was that far out of whack? So I got it too slow or the AOA was so high that it fell out of the air?

AOA too high is a fancy way of saying it stalled.

Just see the video, I love my Gee Bee

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGdZM5WTQqU

What is your runway specifications at the field in the vid?
That kind of touches on the question I had about the landing issues .. IF you are flying off of 500-600ft of concrete it removes a lot of the problems with getting the GB down.. IF tho, you are flying off of 250-275ft of runway then getting the bird down on a postage stamp is a little bit more difficult.. Setting up for a spot landing with this bird is far more difficult than getting the pleasure of flying it to the ground and let it touch down wherever and roll out.. I am not knocking those who have the facility to land this way but to some people the landing issues with the plane are not always there plane setup, sometimes it is where you are flying/landing the plane..

FWIW, to get a handle on the landings I doubled all the recomended throws...

JMO,
Rick

I just started my new GP Gee Bee, what a cool airplane. I went with the Robarts gear and an onboard glow driver but I have an engine choice to make
a YS 120, or a Saito 150? I'm leaning to the YS because it might be stronger and it is a racer after all.


Daryll

Do yourself a favor and check out the Super Tigre G2300. I was shocked at the speed of this plane and engine combo. Though the Super Tigre can be a bit tedious to setup and break in initially, the cost of the engine over shadows the time and patience needed to bring the motor to life. I like the Fox Miracle plugs in the ST 2300 and if you are setup with glow driver, just make sure you set the engine at proper height to tank.

Thanks for the engine advice but I already have the others availble, my Father gave them to me but they have not been run for several years I will try both on a test stand to see
witch one is stronger and easyest to start and tune.

Daryll

zlooks like you are runing gas??

What is the lightest someone has made there GP GEE BEE. I want to get another and probably have it around 10.5 pounds if I can dry.

The last one I had was around 12.5, and this was without the radial. I had a OS 120 4 stroke in it, and jr ds821 sevos, 7 channel scan

select r790, and . I want to rebuild it with a saito 125 (24.69 oz) this save me 9.0 ozs, futaba servos s3152 or s3010 ( they both are 1.4 oz

per servo) this will save me about .5 ozs. The receiver will be r790UL 6 grams( this will save me about .3 ozs). I am looking for the lightest

battery that I can put in it, I had a jr 4n100( 4.9ozs), nothing less that 700mah/nimh, any suggestions? I am also not going to put the radial

in, this will save some weight too.




Total weight savings so far=9.8oz plus whatever the radial weights

Last questions does anyone know how much the GP GeeBee weight put together without anything put in it just fuse wings and landing gear?