I have another Question gang. running 6 digital servos in this plane, what type and size battery did you use?
I also have on-board glow, what extra battery size with be good for that? as far as the main battery how
long did the run time last through out the day?
Thanks,
Jeff

yeah mine bend too but that is because you may be putting it under extreme stress like bending them with your hand, during flight it does not have the much stress unless you max out the your servo throw and it pushes the wood farther than the control surface can go. It does not take that much throw to move this plane around. So you should never worry about being maxed out on servo throw.

I have a 1100mah battery on and that last me at least 6-8 long flights and my voltage is usually around 4.9 or 5 when I stop flying, so I could fly more if I wanted. I do not know how the on board glow will effect the battery because I do not have on board glows on my planes

The dihedral has to be set when you glue the wing half together. I used a heavy book on the wing that was touching the floor and I prop something under the wing that was in the air until it measure 6" from the floor. Let the item prop the wing until the epoxy fully cures (at least 10-12 hours). Once it cure your will will be set with the dihedral. If you just Glue the wing halfs together the dihedral comes out to about 5" (I think, it has been three years since I built mine) which is below the recommended.

Thanks!

Mine has a OS 120FS no pump and I had to add a heavy hub prop nut on mine to balance it out. I think it was a 1 oz hub. I have everything per the manual. The Thunder Tiger 130 is about 4 oz lighter than the OS 120FS. So you may have to move the battery and receiver back to balance it out, and if you do that you can keep it light and the lighter the Gee Bee is the better it is to land.

My Final weight came out to 10lbs on the dot, and that was with everything in the factory spots. No dummy radial, and a 2oz spinner hub. I had to look at some old post to see. So if you do that Thunder TIger 130 you could probably get yours down to 9.5lbs without the dummy radial. That would make it really easy to land.

So you left out the part that installs in the cowl then? I think that's what your saying :-)

Yeah its called a dummy radial engine(it is all white, and you paint it). It makes the Gee Bee look like it has a real radial engine in it. With your engine being 4 oz lighter than the OS you could probably get away with installing it and still be around 10lbs.

Mine is about 3 years old. Set up with a ST 2300 and a Bisson Pitts-style muffler. Several flights, no damage. It is really easy to land with a 16x6, and a bear with a 16x8. I think the braking effect of the lower pitch helps to control the rate of descent.

x2

Right on the money, I flew my first one with a 16x8 and it was hard all h to land, did not want to slow down. I change it to a 16x6 and mannn it was like night and day

I have a ST 2300 too and I think I might put mine in the Seagull Gee Bee Z.

It is great see to that the GP GeeBee is still out there flying !!!
Hope I do not need body parts one day ! or a new wing. !!

What type 16x6 is working best a WOOD or APC for you guys?

I have a evolution 16x6 on mine now, on my last one I had a Master Air Screw 16x8 and 16x6. I switch over to evolution props once they started making them about 2 or 3 years ago, they have been working good on the GP so I have not changed. APC is a great prop to that does not flex, I have only used APC once on a Seagull Edge 540. Wood is a great choice but if you have a prop strike most of the time they break, which is good because it lowers the chance of damage to the engine.

As far as parts, I would say just get a extra set of wheel pants.

Where would you find extra parts these days? I already do have extra wheel pants :-)
I will look into the evolution props as well. never have heard of them until now.
Thanks,
Jeff

Yeah they are made by the same company that makes the evolution engine sold at HorizonHobby. Most hobbies stores do not carry them, when I was in TN there was a hobby store that sold a lot of the evolution props and they were priced cheaper than the others. So that is how I started flying with the evolution props and like them. I think the biggest they sell is a 16x6

Here is a link

[link]http://search.horizonhobby.com/index.jsp?sid=1332D4C2CF22&Ne=500&N=603&Ntt=prop[/link]

Parts: Ebay,RCU(Buy Sell Section),RCGroup-( put a "s" on the end), Amazon, Craigslist

This plane has been discontinued for about 3 years now I think so Towerhobbies no longer has parts.

not understanding the ( put a "s" on the end) tho.

check your PM

A friend of mine nosed over and did a number on his so I made the molds for the wheel pants and cowl for the CMP, Seagull, Hobby king , Gee Bee. I now have available those replacement parts if anyone needs them. I am also building an 80"ws version of the Gee Bee r2 so I'll have parts for it also. We may do the fuselage mold also for both.

that is good to know THANKS!

Does anyone know it the stock landing gear that comes with the Hobby King version of the 120 Gee Bee is the same as the GP 120 Gee Bee?

Do you need a pair for the GP GeeBee?
I have a new never used set.
Jeff

No I was trying to find out if anyone knew what kind of landing gear came with the CMP 120 Gee Bee that Hobby King sells. I found a manual to the CMP Gee Bee and the gear is trash[:@] so I don't know if I will be getting it

It's the same as the CMP model . I have one of those and I did put the robart oleo struts on it . I did have to carve a couple of trenches in the foam for gear blocks .

Deleted

I just got one of these NIB for a very nice price...and Tower had one more set of the robart struts. I'm on page 11 of this thread so far, so I thank everyone for their information.

I'll be going electric on this one...probably 8S 5000. Probably a scorpion 4035-330 or 380 with the recommended 16x6.

However, this might be a winter build for me...but it will get done!

(I have a 12S 1/4 Red Lion ARF to get together next!)