That's definitely different than mine. Mine has a tiller bar directly welded high up on the tailwheel wire right below the rudder. The springs attach to the tiller bar and then to control horns that are attached to the rudder (one on each side). I can definitely now see the area that you were saying wobbles.
Yep, might be a good idea to go with the DuBro or Sullivan versions.....

hattend: Its not the klett tailwheel its supposed to be the CarlGoldberg tail wheel assy. that came with the conversion kit, even though the instructions show something totally differant. What does the Klett tailwheel looklike?

Glowplug: Yeah looks poorly designed huh? I also did purchace the ohio superstar products one but it has huge controll horns that attach on both ends dont know if thats the one you have. So either way. So how do you install the springs? without destorying them like you see i did in the picture.

Well, Klett was always distributed/owned by Goldberg so I was assuming that is what they sent you in the conversion kit. I guess that relationship didn't survive the sale of the company. Here is what the Klett setup looks like.


You can get Klett gear here:
http://www.centralhobbies.com/landin...y%20by%20Klett

You need the .60 size

Don

I really like the design of that!!! Ill think about it. I dont know..
those springs are pre-cut like that? im really digging that. Ive destoryed everyspring i had trying to install them. I must not have the talent of installing springs.

rcfury, my springs aren't real pretty either......but they work!

As far as the control horns, they work, but the hardware doesn't, since you don't use the control horn backplates, the screws are too small.....I used larger, socket head cap screws to attach the control horns(the cap screws go through both control horns on either side of the rudder) As far as the springs, I cut them, then used small needle nose pliers to pull out the end a bit, stuck it through the tiller bar/control horn, and used the same pliers to bend the end of the spring around the tiller bar and control horn so it wouldn't come loose. It took me a couple cuts of the springs to get the tension quite right, but I did get it.

How much difference does the new Tiger2 ARFs make versus the older ones?

dont really know about that question since i have one of their newer tiger 2's but, as i just found out that the tail wheel assemblies that you could order are differant now. They now have that god-for-saken dual threaded rod setup (see the pics on page 1).

Well i was looking at the Klett tail wheel, looking pretty niice. How 'bout the tailwheel setup from NMP (i think thats the company) thats on the top of centralhobbys website? Looks like that uses a single spring setup. sugestions?

fury, not familiar with that one......but I'd use the old addage.....2 springs are better than one!

Is the "new" Tiger 2 still covered with Ultracote? They don't mention it in the ads anymore.

It looks like it works like the Sullivan setup. You attach the single spring to the bottom of the rudder and it absorbs shocks in a side to side manner instead of a push pull. The Sullivan works fine, that one should too. Only bad thing about them is they are designed to be built in before covering so you'll need to strip off some covering and do a little glassing on the bottom of the rudder.

Don

Glowplug: Yeah the tiger 2 is still covered in Ultracote; cub yellow, and white. The arf doesn't come with pushrods either. Dont know if it supposed to or not but mine didn't come with any. Thats the LHS is fo

hattend: thanks for the info there, no more glassin' for me. i glassed the wing joint top and bottom and i made so much mess i dont think my ping-pong table for a workbench works the way its supposed to anymore.. OOPs.. MY BAD!!!

-Neways we'll see how it is when the klett tailwheel arives. So now how bout that gaping hole that will be left in the rudder wheni pull that dang threaded rod out. lite ply?

Find a dowel to fit or drill it out to fit a dowel, cut/sand/cover...done.

Ok. My plane is nearing completion now. Just waiting for my klett tailwheel to arrive from central hobbies. If i should add another question here. What do you think about the throw rates on this plane that the directions give? Im thinking 3/16th low 5/16th high, are really mild for the elevator. What do you fly on and how does it handle?

I don't really have any idea what the throws are on mine........I'm sure they used to be set up according to the manual, but I've had the plane setup on 3 radios since I've had it, so I'm sure I just "eyeballed" it the last time I changed radios. I know I have my ailerons cranked up pretty good......elevator is pretty effective......don't need a whole lot there. My Rudder is maxed out. I've never high-speed stalled the plane.....I don't think you can...but my elevator throw isn't maxed out either, so I'm not positive. If I could guess, my elevator high rate is probably 1/2 - 5/8". Try 5/16 - 1/2" first, and go from there.

Oh well,
I got my klett tail wheel. And gosh what a differance. It was like 20 times easier to put on. Now i just need to glue my hinges in and ill be set. Guess what no more slop.
Im sure the lady who answered my e-mail from "Carl Goldberg" didn't know what she was talking about. Im happy now. I should have it up for its maiden this weekend.
WISH ME LUCK

Good luck! I'm sure you'll like the plane!

I know that this isn't a T2, but it is a conversion. Couple of years ago, looking for a cheap way of advancement, I converted my Avistar to a tail dragger. First I removed the dyhedral from the wing. Tried some aluminum bolt on gear, but after weighing them, found that they were 3.5 oz. more than the original wire gear, so I just remounted the wire gear forward of the original placement. Used a cheap Dubro swivle castor tail wheel. With the removal of the nose gear, linkage, cowl cheeks and anything else not relevant to flight, I managed to get this 5 pound plane down to just a hair over 4.5 lbs. In doing so it lowered the wing loading. Still running the original .46 LA ( 9.6 oz.) with an 11/4 prop, this little freak will hover. Take off is within 15 feet and with the CG moved back app. 1/4" this plane will float in at a snails pace, let alone do anything you ask of it in the air. Total investment was the cost of the tail wheel for the conversion. The color change was optional. Hope you like it, Joe

Thats actually a nice looking plane. Originally i had the superstar 40 i flew it a lot and got a little bored with it. So i also removed the dyhedral from it. I left it as the trike for the time being. i wanted to see how it flew with the modification. Anyway. Up for its newly maiden flight, and wrung it out. Then the wings folded.

KG, that was also a concern, so I glued some flat stock across the joint on the bottom side of the wing. Low profile and fit within the gear compartment. Joe

So now everything is done and all. Well so far. I need to decide on a way to mount my radio gear. I think i came up with a decient idea for the RX. I cut 2 basswood rods the size of the fuse width. Epoxy them about 2-3 inches apart laying horizontaly. And slide velcro through the bottom of the 2 rods and up over the rx to make it snug. Seems like a logical idea. The battery i will have to wait till i balance the model.
Im using a 11x6 prop with my .46 AX, it should beable to pull the plane around a bit. Thinking a lower pitch prop may be better.

cumin: i relplyed with someone elses account. to many plane addicts at work. Anyway i should of glassed the 2 wing half together but didn't thought it would be ok. Now the plane made great fire starter for the fireplace.

RCFury, velcro is the duct tape of aviation. I originally picked up a 250 foot roll, which cost less than the packaged 1 foot pieces at the LHS. Use it for wire management, hold the RX down and my favorite is positioning the battery. As you play, you have the ability to move the battery for a CG change without a lot of hassle. I seal the balsa with contact glue or sealer where it is going and it is good to go. Good luck, Joe

thats something i havn't thought of doing is sealing the balsa. Though very logical. What do you mean contact glue? As in CA, i take it?

rcfury, I manufacture custom furniture and in laminate counter tops its glued down with contact cement. I thin it and it seals the wood, but results in a tacky finish and really sticks. I believe it can be purchased at home remodeling centers in as little as quart containers. You can get the same results with a thin coat of epoxy or some polyeurothane. Makes all the difference. Some times due to space restraints I mount the battery where it will be hanging upside down as opposed to sitting on the floor of the fuse and even on severe impact the battery always stayed where it was placed. Joe

Hmmm..... If I want to know what version of the Tiger II I have, can I tell it from the fuel tank?

The fuel tank says 1995, Sullivan pylon brand. Is that the year it was made or the year the mold was made?

My Tiger II was really hard to build.... did your Tiger II ARFs need factory-drilled-hole-redrilling? Did you guys need to trim the canopy insert to fit? Did you guys end up with a pretty tail-heavy airplane?

Thanks,
David

Yub: Well the year on the tank is when the tank was made. But, it will give you a decient idea how old the plane is. Not all the time though. I didn't have to redrill anything. But, the push rod tubes seemed to be located, sometimes just centermeters off. Nothing is perfect. With the canopy it fit perfectly on the fuse. It looks a little long in the front and rear of the canopy but, it seemed to fit fine where it was located. I couldn't answer your last question there, as I still am finishing the last of the electronics. But so far I think it maybe slightly tail heavy. To me its easier to adjust the CG to the front of the plane instead of the rear. Nose heavy planes requires you to move the battery all the way to the rear of the plane, which then you have to make a hatch in the tail section. YUCK!!
I did my homework and researched RCU up and down about the tiger 2 being always tail heavy so I built accordingly so i shouldn't have to add much weight. Plus i squeezed in a 10 oz tank in the front instead of the stock 8. So that will help out a little.

Cumn: Durr... I should of known that. I got a little confused on the wording.

Everybody: A little off topic but, since I am allready posting a story.. I just purchaced a Magnum XL 25 for another plane I have. It is a picky motor as im allready hearing? But, it was cheaper then the OS. Which is good.

Hello everyone. I know this is an older thread but its exactly what I'm looking for.

I was dismantling my workbench up at my parent's house that I used in my teens. Below the table I found a new in the box Goldberg Tiger 2 kit in perfect condition. I don't have any recollection of purchasing this kit. I believe that it came from a lot that I bought from friends who got out of the hobby. Apparently I just forgot about the kit.

The Tiger 2 kit is an older kit with die cut parts.....not laser cut.

My first thought was to sell it as I don't need another kit or plane. But, after looking at the kit I am interested in building it. However, I'd like to convert it to taildragger. Is this the best thread on this subject? Also, some posts refer to a "conversion kit" and details described "in the manual". My manual mentions nothing about converting it to taildragger. Is this included with the newer laser cut kit? What is the "conversion kit" that has been mentioned? I'm not too interested in tailwheel assemblies as I have my own way of rigging a tailwheel. I do have main landing gear that I'm planning on using. What else would be included in the "conversion kit"? Are there additional details on beefing up the fuse for the landing gear?

Anything else I need to know?

Thanks,
Brian

ADD: Sorry, after posting I realized that this is the ARF forum. Mine is the kit version. Sorry for not noticing. [:@]