Dave Patrick super cub
#553
I was just notified by email that the Super Cubs have finally arrived. I'll be watching for the delivery truck - should be here any day now!
#554

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From: Round Lake,
IL
AS soon as I get my clipped wing version I'll fire off some pics. I'm curious to see if it has flaps, I can't tell from the picture Sandy sent me. I guess I could just ask.
#558

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From: College Place, WA
Hi guy's, I ordered an ARC version a long,long time ago. They said they didn't get any in this shipment, so I took the last yellow S Cub they had. I just got it and it is too nice to strip the covering and do silk and dope as I had planned with the ARC. I have a couple DP Extra's that were nice, but this cub looks excellent. The covering is nice and tight and everything looks good. I have a new OS 160FT to slide in there. Can't wait to get started. Still collecting all that is needed. Guess I'll do the silk and dope on a Balsa USA 1/3 Super Cub this winter.
Mark
Mark
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From: Lambertville, NJ
rc sport:
I used a OS 160 twin and installed the tank in the mounting arrangement provided in the kit. I was reluctant to cut up the foward structure to lower the tank, the airplane is built very light, and I didnt want to compromise it. I also talked to Dave Patrick at the WRAMS show and he didnt think it was a good idea to cut it up. I run the engine wth a glow driver and have no problems with the engine flooding. The OS 160 is one of the best engines on the market IMHO and it idles at such a low speed you can almost count the prop (well almost). It hand starts on a single plug and jumps into RPM when you light the second one. To avoid any possibility of fuel draining into the engine while sitting I keep the throttle closed, and I generally fill the tank when I'm ready to fly. With the cub sitting on its tail it sort of limits a potential draining problem anyway. I have a Sig J3 cub with the very same arrangement and have no problems in the many years that I've flown it. You will enjoy the DP cub, its everything that you would expect it to be, given its high quality design
I used a OS 160 twin and installed the tank in the mounting arrangement provided in the kit. I was reluctant to cut up the foward structure to lower the tank, the airplane is built very light, and I didnt want to compromise it. I also talked to Dave Patrick at the WRAMS show and he didnt think it was a good idea to cut it up. I run the engine wth a glow driver and have no problems with the engine flooding. The OS 160 is one of the best engines on the market IMHO and it idles at such a low speed you can almost count the prop (well almost). It hand starts on a single plug and jumps into RPM when you light the second one. To avoid any possibility of fuel draining into the engine while sitting I keep the throttle closed, and I generally fill the tank when I'm ready to fly. With the cub sitting on its tail it sort of limits a potential draining problem anyway. I have a Sig J3 cub with the very same arrangement and have no problems in the many years that I've flown it. You will enjoy the DP cub, its everything that you would expect it to be, given its high quality design
#561

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From: Round Lake,
IL
farmerric, thanks for the info. I had this motor in my Stinson Reliant and it ran great. I can't remember if the tank in the Stinson was higher than the carb, I gave away the plans when I sold the plane. I'll run it and see how it goes. I too am hesitant on cutting out that piece of ply, it seems pretty structural to me.
#563
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From: Mt Airy, MD
Steamship, when I do mine i'll be using Electrodynamics light system.
http://www.electrodynam.com/cgi-loca...exe/?E+scstore
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From: Mt Airy, MD
v-snap, check page one post #18. I think the cowl is probably the same on the clipped wing version as the full version. O.S.160 fits nicely.
Bud
Bud
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From: College Place, WA
Hey Bud, that lighting system looks like a good deal. I think I'll use it too. I have a plane on the building board before I can start on my S-Cub, so that wil give me time to get the order off. I have a complete McDaniel lighting system that I bought about ten years ago and never used, but the nav lights aren't as bright. It does have a pair of syncronized strobes that I might try to use as well.
I guess my winter project will be quite exciting. I'm using an OS 160 FT for power.
I guess my winter project will be quite exciting. I'm using an OS 160 FT for power.
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From: College Place, WA
V-Snap, I just measured my cowl. At the front it is 8 1/2" wide. Check the weight specs for the Clipped Cub at www.davepatrickmodels.com
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From: jeffersonville,
IN
Hello guys
I am currently rebuilding dpm super cub that a friend gave to me. I have to rebuild from the trailing edge forward with no parts. I have been using pic's that you all have posted and scaleing them up to creat a drawing for templates. thanks to all for your pics.
Jeremy Arvin
I am currently rebuilding dpm super cub that a friend gave to me. I have to rebuild from the trailing edge forward with no parts. I have been using pic's that you all have posted and scaleing them up to creat a drawing for templates. thanks to all for your pics.
Jeremy Arvin
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From: College Place, WA
Jeremy, if I were you, I would order the cowl and windows from DPM. This will give you an idea what sizes to make your new cabin. The DPM S-Cub is supposed to be accurate in outline and true 1/4 scale, so a scale three view drawing would help a bunch too.
Another idea would be to order the clipped wing if they are still in stock. Then you would have something to measure from and then sell it if you don't want it. With the popularity of these models, you would have no problem selling it.
Then again, maybe you are looking for a true scratch build project.
Good luck in your endeavors.
My .02
Another idea would be to order the clipped wing if they are still in stock. Then you would have something to measure from and then sell it if you don't want it. With the popularity of these models, you would have no problem selling it.
Then again, maybe you are looking for a true scratch build project.
Good luck in your endeavors.
My .02
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From: jeffersonville,
IN
The good thing is the cowl was not on the plane when it went down. also the top of the cabin is still intact. I have already got a drawing together and wood is on its way. I will have to make molds for the glass. Fortunatly I work for a ther****rming shop so i can pull parts for free.
#571
Well, my big Super Cub just arrived here in KSA! It survived the around-the-world trip pretty well, just a slightly bashed wing tip to fix (easily repairable). It took six months to get here, so I guess Faulkner still holds the prize for longest delivery time from order date (seven months). I ordered a white one, but received a yellow one which is just fine with me. Everything I imagined about this plane is true....an absolute beauty! I have three days off begining tomorrow, so my goal is to have it flyable before Sunday. I am still debating whether to use dowel standoffs for the OS 160 FT ala Pettit, or make a ply box standoff ala Faulkner, et al. I think I will go with the single servo/carbon fiber pushrod arrangement for the elevator as everybody seems to have good luck with that. I'll post pics as they become available. I'm psyched![>:]
#572
I had my first glitch today - one of the cowl blind nut fasteners, hidden deep within, would not take the 4-40 cowl hold-down screw. The instructions say not to force it, cross-thread, or push hard because it is not covered by warrantee (like a warrantee matters over here in the desert
). Anyway, I couldn't get the bolt to take, so I knocked out the blind nut and looked - sure enough, it was plugged up with glue! Thanks Charlie Chan! No problem, just got a new blind nut, fished it on with a wire, held it in place with a long stick and screwed in the 4-40 bolt. After cinching the blind nut down, I dripped in some CA with a long wire feeder - good as new! My camera is on the fritz, so you'll have to wait for pictures awhile - sorry.[
] This is a great ARF!
). Anyway, I couldn't get the bolt to take, so I knocked out the blind nut and looked - sure enough, it was plugged up with glue! Thanks Charlie Chan! No problem, just got a new blind nut, fished it on with a wire, held it in place with a long stick and screwed in the 4-40 bolt. After cinching the blind nut down, I dripped in some CA with a long wire feeder - good as new! My camera is on the fritz, so you'll have to wait for pictures awhile - sorry.[
] This is a great ARF!
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From: College Place, WA
Daniel, congrats on getting your cub. I have the OS 160FT for mine too. I ordered an ARC version and had to take the yellow one in order to get one. I'm glad I didn't pass it up because like you, think it is the best cub yet. I have a plane on the board to finish before I get started on mine. Am looking forward to seeing your pics.
#574
I couldn't find any appropriate sized plywood around so I used the Dick Pettit method for engine mounting. Seemed to work out fine. I mounted the Keleo headers and made the exit hole in the cowl. Lookin' good so far. I'm working on digging out the elevator hinges now. Yes, they are a pain.
#575
Bud,
Your floats and canoe arrangement are striking - just checked out the pic you posted on the previous page. IMHO, I'd fly with the canoe inverted - otherwise you might quickly overgross the aircraft in a heavy shower
.
TripleDeucer,
I like the yellow one just fine even though they are so prevalent in this hobby, it seems. When the covering wears out, and if it is still airworthy, I'll cover it in fabric and paint it something else. I hope that will be many happy flight hours from now.
Your floats and canoe arrangement are striking - just checked out the pic you posted on the previous page. IMHO, I'd fly with the canoe inverted - otherwise you might quickly overgross the aircraft in a heavy shower
. TripleDeucer,
I like the yellow one just fine even though they are so prevalent in this hobby, it seems. When the covering wears out, and if it is still airworthy, I'll cover it in fabric and paint it something else. I hope that will be many happy flight hours from now.


