thanks rcguy1,

that's what I was thinking, that if the 5625's at 6V provide enough torque for the surfaces, there are no reasons not to go for the speed as well. It's nice to have someone confirm that !
I didn't know about the cermark HD extensions, I will check them out.
Anybody else using the 5625's with good results ?

JG

Hi Guys,

For all of you that were upset about the mismatched paint on the canopies of the PW. Great Planes just replaced mine and it is an exact match. I looks great. It was worth the wait.

Andy

Are any of you using the Fuji 50 gasser as the manual notes. I am wondering if this is a good match. Whatever I choose, it is going to be my first gasser and the Fugi looks good. I don't want to bother with an ignition nicad, I prefer self ignition.

I would like a gas engine at the upper end of the range, it doesn't have to be all out hardcore 3d, just the middle or upper end. What do you recommend?

BTW, I have been reading the manual on line and this plane looks like it would take much more than the 15-20 hours that they say. What has been your experience?

Am I crazy to do this plane and gas engine as my 4th plane ever!?!?!??

Shoestringracer:

If you want to go gas and I recommend gas for this plane. (read post #1226) There are a host of engines that will fit the bill.

You have a wide range of choices like the BME 50, ZDZ 50, DA 50, Brison 3.2 and the 3W-50. All are good power plants for this plane and in their own right well designed and manufactured. The other engines are OK but I prefer the lighter, more (I think) reliable engines with electronic ignitions.

I'm using the BME 50 and ran it out of the box with not a single problem. Flys the plane with plenty of power to spare.

I guess all the engines in this class would work just fine. It just comes down to availability and personal preference. I don't mention price because they are all priced within a couple of dollars of each other.

Yes, it will take longer than 15 hours to get this plane into flying condition.

I can't answer your last question because I personally do not know your level of skill and maturity. If you have to ask the question of strangers on whether or not you are ready for this plane, I would have to guess NO.

can any of you give me info on how you enlarged the spinner hole to fit the moki 210, and how you cut out the area for the 20x10 props. I'm starting on this part and wanted to do it right. was the spinner easily balanced?
thanks

How did you go about getting them to replace it?

P51B,

About three weeks ago I read a post from someone that said that GP replaced his canopy no charge because the color didn't match. I figured it was worth the phone call.

I just called the customer service department selected the option to talk to a live person and then related that I was not happy with the mismatched paint on the canopy. They said they had be come aware of the problem and would send one out as soon as they came it. I waited about 3 weeks. They told me to keep the original canopy. And said they were sorry about the problem.

Actually they sent me two canopies, the first one was for a .40 sized Extra. I called them and they said keep it and the were sorry for the inconvenience and sent the PW canopy out FedEx ground. I got it in three days.

The match is perfect. The people painting the originals clearly used the wrong paint color.

Andy

Due to financial problems I have to sell mine that has never been flown.

RTF Great Planes 1/4 scale Extra 300 Wagstaff:
Brison 3.2 w/4 props and pitts style muffler w/smoke ready
7-Hitec 5625 digital servos
Futaba 9CAP transmitter Channel 27
Futaba R149DP Reciever Channel 27
NIMH 6v 2700 Battery Pack New
NIMH 4.8v 2700 Battery Pack New
Never flown All brand new, Asking $1800

please email me if interested

[email protected]

<<<RTF Great Planes 1/4 scale Extra 300 Wagstaff:
<Brison 3.2 w/4 props and pitts style muffler w/smoke ready
<7-Hitec 5625 digital servos
<Futaba 9CAP transmitter Channel 27
<Futaba R149DP Reciever Channel 27
<NIMH 6v 2700 Battery Pack New
<NIMH 4.8v 2700 Battery Pack New
<Never flown All brand new, Asking $180

<please email me if interested >>>

Well. . . how about $140 and you pay the shipping??

LOL


If that weren't a typo I might actually be able to own one of these things!!!

Brett

Brett,

A 181 is an Archer, am I right? I fly a PA-28R-200.

thanks was a typo

asp3d
i just ordered a dave brown 4 in spinner for the 2.10 $60.00 i could not find anyone local to enlarge it. i e-mailed GREAT PLANES A COUPLE OF TIMES and they did not have any cure for the spinner being too small. and from what i hear tru-turn will only cut there own product. GREAT PLANES was no help at all they did'nt even reply to my last e-mail.

I enlarged my spinner to fit a 22x10 Bambula prop with a rat-tail file. If you take a little off at a time from both sides it should balance after completed.

HOW HAVE PEOPLE BEEN ATACHING THE CANOPY/HATCH TO THE FUSE ? i KNOW SOME PEOPLE HAVE HAD THEM BLOW OFF. i WAS THINKING OF USING BVM HATCH LATCHES... ANYONE USED THESE OR HAVE ANY GOOD IDEAS OR PHOTOS.

Bryan01601,

I used 4-40 socket head screws, washers, and lock washerswith blind nuts on the canopy tabs. You have to put a plywood spacer between the tab and the fuse side.

It works great.

Andy

I Put 4 40 blind nuts in and used socket head screws. No problems........

I did, however, have a problem with the supplied hinge material breaking on the rudder. Not pulling out, just breaking clean through. I'm putting in Robart Hinge points tonight.

<<<Brett,

A 181 is an Archer, am I right? I fly a PA-28R-200. >>>>

That is correct. I have a couple hours in the 28R-201, nice aircraft!

I am mostly a Cessna man as of late however, and they just aren't the same. :-(

Best Wishes,
Brett

I used 4-40 nylon bolts into corresponding blind nuts with lite plywood spacers. Washers should not be necessary for nylon bolts because they stretch. Used nylon bolts on the cowl and they worked loose from all the vibration. I then cut thin strips of glow fuel tubing and used them for washers on the cowl. Ten flights later and not one has worked loose.

Used Robart hinge points from the start. This is the only way to fly.

I was just wondering what everyone was using for batts. I am looking at getting the duralites plus series. This is what I am looking at...

1 - 3600 mah 4 cell 7.4 v pack, Redundant receiver battery
1 - Regulator - 7.5 amp, 6.0 volt (for receiver battery)
1 - 1800 mah 2 cell 7.4 volt Ignition battery
1 - Regulator - 7.5 amp, 5.1 volt (for ignition battery)*
1 - Charger [email protected] volt output w/DC Cable only
1 - Load Tester Universal Inline 1 amp load
PRICE: $ $293.70 US - $456.15 CDN

Seems kinda expensive, but from what I have heard and seen this is probably what I will go with. Let me know what ya think....

And also is anyone running redundant recievers? i know on 30% and above it is recommended, but I don't want to loose this bird!!

1 - 2700 nimh 6 volt $28.00 Sanyo
1 - 1100 nicad 4.8 volt 16.00 Sanyo
have charger and load tester no regulator used or needed

Total $44.00

I want to try to keep things light. The duralite plus batts+reg's=11.1 oz. Pretty light. Plus I have had some trouble in the past running 7.2 receiver packs. That's why I want to use the reg's.........but I am open to ANY suggestions!!! I just am not real "hip" on which brand is good/best/lightest/anythingelseIforgot.........

Deadsticker,

I used 2700 mah 4.8v nimh for the receiver and servos and a 1500 mah 4.8v for nimh for the ignition. The 2700 pack is in the tail, the 1500 pack is in the nose.

Andy

Gees I can't wait to get home to build this thing!! i still haven't got the DA yet, but I did order the 10X. I am going to use hitec 5625's all the way around, and put the jr digis in my pattern plane.

So the higher the MaH on a batt, the longer it will last. am I reading that right? I think I might go with the duralites just because......well I really don't have a reason! i just want this thing to be the sweetest setup I have ever owned!

I installed blind nuts into the back of the canopy tabs and use 4-40 bolts to screw in to those. Im the lucky guy that had his blow off and obliterate the left stab. The blind nuts hold well. You may want to hit the tabs with a little CA. I found it very easy to push the tabs up into the canopy.
Ditto on grinding the spinner. I used a dremel and took off a little at a time and then put it on my prop balancer to balance it

I used Blind nut on the inside of the canopy posts and opened up the slots a bit to accept the blind nuts and everything seems to be just fine...hope this helps.