DeadSticker

I am not sure of your theory of putting your hardwood dowels so far into the wing. They shoul be mounted as close to the hinge line as possible and then the control horn is trimmed back to be even with the hinge line.
By doing it the way that you did , the servo arm will have to move further than if the control horn was mounted on the edge.
You want to get the throw you need with as little movement from the servo arm as possible. For correct mechanical advantage the servo arm should be the same size or smaller than the hight of the control horn.
I hope this helps.

BigBird Flyer,
What you said makes perfect sense. I got it all done and I actually had to turn the epa's down because on 100% dual rates it was trying to overthrow. Now I have epa's @ 82% and high rates @ 97%. Maximum throw that the ele will allow. But what you are saying is right. I just didn't think about it before I started. Thanks for the info...maybe someone will use it. Here is a pic completed.....

DeadSticker,
If possible set up your servos and controls mechanically so that it takes the full 150% travel to reach your desired maximum throw. This will give you better mechanical advantage and longer servo life. This was repeated again and again in the DP Extra manual for setting up the gear, and to me it makes perfect sense.

DeadSticker, What kind of pushrods and hardware are you useing? It looks good.


Chad

Hey Chad,
The pushrods I made from 4-40 threaded rod and carbon fiber tube. Really easy (and cheap) to do. I just put the control horns on, measured the gap inbetween, cut thr rod, put it on with the #4 nuts, measued inbetween the nuts, cut the carbon fiber tube, put it all together, CA-ed the nuts and thats it! Total cost...$.68 a rod for the 4-40, and 5 bucks for the carbon tube. I was gonna JB Weld them in, but the 4-40 fits perfect in the tube. The control horns are the new dubro heavy duty. I have rocket city on my 33% patty and I must say that the dubro is more stout. I might even pull the rocket city off and put the dubro's on it too.


And for those of you that were asking about #'s for the DA50, I actually ran it today!! And like John (R/C Foolish) said...WOW!!!! This is what I have so far.

Needles set from factory, did not change.

Mejzlik 22x10: Idle 1915, Top end 7420
Mezjlik 23x10: Idle 2020, top end 6975

That is all for right now. I will have to get some Menz, 3w, and beila props to mess with. If I had a tail wheel she would have been in the air today...

Peninsula modelers main flying site.

NO GP extra flight today to much wind. 20 degrees how to bring a 40% to the flying site.

http://peninsulamodelers.com

Bill,

That sure is pretty country. I have runway envy. I guess size does matter

Andy

Bill,

That sure is pretty country. I have runway envy. I guess size does matter

Andy

I used to love the beautiful fields in Georga - peanuts envy - I guess.

This is one of three clubs i belong to. The field is 80' wide and 856' long. Its not as good looking as Swift Bill's but it a good place to fly.
James

One of run way.
James

Quote:

peanuts envy - I guess.

Hey P-51B,

Thanks for the alert. I went ahead and zip tied my shop vac hose to my dremel extension about 1/4 inch from the sanding wheel.

Worked perfectly! ALL the dust went right in the vac.

Thanks again.

Steve

Anybody out there using the zdz40 on the G.P. extra300s I am fixing to buy a second one and just happen to have a brand new 40 cc gasser sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed . My other Patty has an O.S. 160fx in her This will be my first gas engine plane. any thoughts????????? Lee

The following is straight from the BME Manual.

ENGINE PLACEMENT:

If at all possible, mount the engine so that it is completely enclosed within the cowl, especially the carburetor. This will allow the engine to run at its best. If the engine is mounted such that the carburetor is sticking out of the cowl, it is altogether possible that the carb will be subjected to irregular airflow and as a result, may run erratically.

I am confused. Some say I should cut the bottom half off of the cowling to open it up so I have at least twice as much air flowing out than in.

The manual is suggesting to completely enclose the engine in the cowling.

Hlep!!! Any comments would be helpfull.

I have attached a picture of the cowling.

That should work ok. Mind is cut almost like yours and it works find. Keith of BME was at field when i test flew it and didn't say anything about cutting any more. I had my cap 232 at field and he said i needed to cut some out of back on cowl on it. So i feel yours will work ok.

Good luck
James

Good news on how patty 3D's
An experienced 3d pilot flew mine sat and did rolling harriers hovering 1' off the ground, wall's into torque rolls, elevators down to a harrier landing, the whole shebang. It was great to watch. He said it flew a lot like his 1/3 scale cap
I have read many threads saying patty wont 3d as well as a lot of other airplanes and I can officially say bullhockey now. Now all I have to do is to learn how to fly 3d as well as wayne does

YES, I am!!!
Check out my gallery for some pics. I also have TME smoke system installed as well. You'll need 1-3/4" engine spacers, carb clears the fire wall, makes for a clean installation. Very little needs to be cut from the cowl for it to fit. I'm using a Pro Zinger 22x8 prop.

smallfly :

I got the same response from a couple of much, much better pilots than myself.
They both said it flies like a much bigger plane.

Deadstick

That type of push rods are great i have them. But to be safe using them, you should glue the alltread in the graphite tube with 2000 rubber tire c/a and put aluminum tube that just fits over the graphite 3/4 to 1" long on the end to keep the tube from spliting and glue it with 2000 rubber tire c/a. This glue will set up and the alltread will not turn, making it into a soild rod thats what you want it to be. That graphite tubing can split if you don't do this. Better safe than sorry.

good luck with your plane
James

Thanks for the tip on the pushrods..i just got all of mine finished. I will look for some metal rod like you said.

Chad

Well guys she is done. got the carbon fiber tailwheel from Troy Built Models today. I do believe this weekend will be the maiden!!! After I get her in the air I will post a flight report with the DA50 using a 22x10 Mejzlik, 23x10 Mejzlik, and a 20x12 3-blade Mejzlik. I would do it tomorrow, but I don't have a flying buddy that can go...

What three bladed prop for my 300? I'm using a BME 50. I have read every page in this posting since it started and have not heard of anyone using a three bladed prop.

I think you should get the prop info from BME, if available. If not I think the 20 X 12 that Deadsticker is using is a good start. There is a formula for going to 3 bladed props from 2 bladed props that I can remember right now, but I'm sure that someone will know it.

Andy

Andy,
Is this what you were referring to?

http://www.zingerpropeller.com/_2_blade_.htm

Dave