Tango

You have a good looking set up, will it hold up i am not sure but think it may work loose with time. But your ideal is a good one. I took a grinder and grind off the brass arm and put a nose wheel steering arm on mind, once i got it set i drill a dimple in the rod so the set screw could have a place to set. put lock tight on set screw and its stay in place. this is just another ideal in case yours dont work out for you;

GOOD LUCK
James

Swift Bill
How much did you have to pay that guy to use his pictures. I saw your and your dog on a picture the other day. Theres no way that youny man in this picture could have got that ULGY in 33yrs.HA!HA!

Have a Good day up there on top of the world and watch out for incoming rag heads. Our TROOPS have got them running you keep them from coming in up there and we will stop them on the bottom down here. Ithink the largest sand storm that been recorded in the world will be takes place in a few hrs.

Have a Good day
James

I am ready to order my servo extension wires for my WM 300 Extra. I am going to be placing my elevator servos in the rear, and will have a pull-pull on the rudder, one servo in each wing. What servo extensions length do I need for each. Thanks

rcpilot,

I used 12" on the wings and 24" for the tail servos.

John

Had this made for my ZDZ50 at work with a CAD program and a C&C Okuma lathe.
Makes prop changes easy and My spinner doesn't need drilling.

GUY'S i wanted you to see this

Apply for a patent for the adapter then sell it to RCS. Looks great if you decide to sell some let me know.

That really is very nice, but I like the security of having all of the bolts through the prop so it can't be thrown. Now if there were a way to develop an adapter that had the 6 studs on it and make its so that it fit through the prop and bolted in the center that would be the ticket.

It really is a work of art and I bet that you could sell it.


Andy

Shake it don't break it wrap it up and I'll take it

Hey Jack,

I have a BME 50 also. The pictures of the cowling are great!

What tool did you and your brother use to make the cuts for the cylinder head, muffler and adjustment hole.?

Thanks,

Steve

Does anyone have any tips or "gotchas" for cutting the cowling?

Thanks.

I used a cuttoff wheel on my Dremel to make the initial holes and then used the 1/2" and 1/4" sanding drums to round the corners and open up the holes. It worked great! Remember measure twice and cut once.

Andy

Thanks Andy!

On the cut-off wheel --- slow speed or fast. Is there any tendency of melting.

Does it make a lot of fine dust? I seem to remember reading some cautions on respiratory risks.

Steve

Use what ever speed you need to cut it, with mine low speed cut it no problem at all. If you have the one with a rechargeable battery, fast speed may be needed. Yes it makes some dust but its nothing to worry about, do it in the garage or outside if you are conserned but i don't think there is a need for a mask. Do exactly like andy said... use the cut off wheel for intitial holes then clean it up with the sanding drum.


Chad

He used a dremel also.

While the cutoff wheel will work well. The sanding drum is what he used to cut the opening and finish it. Before seeing him do it this way, I would have used the cutoff as well, but after seeing how easy and nice a job he did just using the sanding drum, I won't use the cutoff on a cowl again.

If you tip the dremel on a 45 degree angle from the surface your cutting, you can run the sanding drum right into it without having to create a starter hole. Jut tip it on a 45 and pull the whole dremel downwards. Not pushing down like if you were drilling, but sliding down. Don't be to near an edge though. Stay in a little ways in case you goof.

Mark the area you want to cutout with a black magic marker and when you do the initial cutout, don't try to go right up to the line. Stay about an 1/8th of an inch away from it until you get the piece out.

You might want to put a drop of CA glue on the cut edge of the gold stripes. It peels back easily at any openings.

Jack

Hey fellow Patty Fliers,
If anyone needs props for their 50cc gassers I have a Menz S 22x8 and a Mejzlik 23x10 that are brand new not drilled/mounted for sale. You can see the thread HERE ..

Steve,

I keep my RPMs around 10,000 for cutting the cowl. Yes it does make a lot of dust. I guess there are some risks, but I never use a mask. If I were doing them every day it would be a different story. I figure the one or two cowls that I do a year will not hurt me, but follow your own conscience.

Good luck,

Andy

For years I have used a Dremel tool both AC and battery powered with a small rotary file or diamond grit bit for fine detailed cutting it is very fast and easily controlled. I finish the edges with the drum sander. Speed, it's not that critical.

I have had mt PW 300 for three months and just started it yesterday. I am cleaning up the wing tubes with a brake cylinder hone and it is working well, not fast but I will not have egg shaped tubes. BME 50 is mounted and all hinging is with Robart hinges glued with Gorilla Glue. I am replacing the tail wheel with a CB leaf spring type. Futaba 9CAP for guidance. I have many pages of notes from this site and these have been a great help in making some decisions. While the plane may not be perfect I thing it is a good value. I have never built a plane in over 30 years of modeling that I did not modify or re-engineer.

Thanks to all for your input

After 5 months, 5 phone calls, 8 emails, and 2 complete kits I finally got a plane that's not damaged. My new cowl and pants showed up today in perfect condition and it only took 4 days. Great job Great Planes. Maybe now I will consider buying more of their products. I can't believe it took so long to straighten this out but I'm so glad it's over with, now I can relax and start putting this thing together. I still got the cardboard wing tube sockets but I can fix that. Anyway I had to tell someone. Thanks!

Took a lot of work to make the first on. I may considder duplicating. For safety you could remove one of the countersunk bolts and replace with a stud and drill 1 hole in the prop and spinner.

I was looking through the manual to find the size of the prop shaft.

I have a couple of Pro Zingers I need to drill and didn't know the size.

Thanks for any help!

Steve

a little birdy told me it was 7/16"...but i may be crazy...i left a message @ BME..and hopefully theyll shoot me an email later today...

unless of course someone else knows...

...the verdict is in...

it IS 7/16"...

woo hoo.

Guys,

When using a dremel WEAR A DUST MASK! You are talking about cutting fiberglass. Remember that with that resin is GLASS fiber, which will also become dust along with the resing. Neither is good for the respiritory system. I am not positive about the resin dust, but the glass dust will not be adsorbed by the body for years, not worth the risk.

I read a couple posts back that someone was having a prob with using long servo arms on the elevator. Here is a simple fix to that. Put your servo arm on (I am using the airwild 1.25") like in the picture. Make a control rod that you can put on just to measure with. then make sure it is at a 90 deg angle with the servo arm and take a white board marker and make a mark on the ele at the front and the back of the control rod. Then draw a straight line between the two marks. Then take your control horn (I am using the dubro heavy duty) and put the connecting hole over the hingeline. Then make a little mark where the end of the control horn. Draw a horiz line off of that. Then cut back the covering and make the center marks with a pencil. Go to home depot or lowes or whatever home store is near you and get a 5/8th hard wood dowl. cut a little piece off and make an x in the center. Use these to line up with the lines drawn earlier. Set the scrap piece on the elevator and draw the circle around it. Then cut out the circle with an exacto knife (wood is real soft). Then cut 2 pieces of your dowl to fill in the holes you just cut. Mix some good ole 5 min epoxy, put it inside the ele and on the dowl then just shove it in. Wipe excess epoxy with alchohol. sand it smooth with the rest of the contour of the ele, drill a hole, and install the control horn.

I hope this isn't too confusing...