Top Flite Staggerwing
#1826
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: ADDLESTONESURREY, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Hi Jon.
Have a look at the phot's of my U/C set up...........Hope these will be of help !!!
Kind regards..........Nick (UK)
Have a look at the phot's of my U/C set up...........Hope these will be of help !!!
Kind regards..........Nick (UK)
#1827
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
So did you add another hinge to the door flap? mine only came with 2 hinges...My door flap is not warped....I can see how adding another hinge would help.
#1828
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Has anyone used the cargo door behind the pilots door for Switches, air fill, air gauge and charge jacks?
I have been working on this and its kinda of a struggle but hopefully it will work out
I have been working on this and its kinda of a struggle but hopefully it will work out
#1829
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tama,
IA
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
ORIGINAL: badazzgti03
Has anyone used the cargo door behind the pilots door for Switches, air fill, air gauge and charge jacks?
I have been working on this and its kinda of a struggle but hopefully it will work out
Has anyone used the cargo door behind the pilots door for Switches, air fill, air gauge and charge jacks?
I have been working on this and its kinda of a struggle but hopefully it will work out
#1830
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Has anyone had any issues with the retract tail gear? I have followed the instructions and noticed you need a strong hi torque servo to retract it. The retract horn on mine bent mainly it has no problems with retracting up but extending down is where the issue is. the horn on the retract binds/bends and don't retract down. Am I doing something wrong? or is there something I need to do for easier retracting? here is a photo of the bent horn.
#1831
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tama,
IA
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
ORIGINAL: badazzgti03
Has anyone had any issues with the retract tail gear? I have followed the instructions and noticed you need a strong hi torque servo to retract it. The retract horn on mine bent mainly it has no problems with retracting up but extending down is where the issue is. the horn on the retract binds/bends and don't retract down. Am I doing something wrong? or is there something I need to do for easier retracting? here is a photo of the bent horn.
Has anyone had any issues with the retract tail gear? I have followed the instructions and noticed you need a strong hi torque servo to retract it. The retract horn on mine bent mainly it has no problems with retracting up but extending down is where the issue is. the horn on the retract binds/bends and don't retract down. Am I doing something wrong? or is there something I need to do for easier retracting? here is a photo of the bent horn.
This picture shows what I mean. (The pic is of crash damage, but the door opener tabs are not damaged, they are bent to what was necessary to get doors opening smoothly.)
#1832
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
the doors open smooth. that's not the problem. It' when it retracts it wont retract all the way like 3/4 of the way and the wheel is still poking out the door and the servo has it all the way retracted but then you gotta push the wheel up to get it to retract all the way. and then when you go to retract it down it wont retract causing the horn to bend like in the picture.
#1833
My Feedback: (60)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Litchfield Park,
AZ
Posts: 7,677
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
23 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
ORIGINAL: badazzgti03
the doors open smooth. that's not the problem. It' when it retracts it wont retract all the way like 3/4 of the way and the wheel is still poking out the door and the servo has it all the way retracted but then you gotta push the wheel up to get it to retract all the way. and then when you go to retract it down it wont retract causing the horn to bend like in the picture.
the doors open smooth. that's not the problem. It' when it retracts it wont retract all the way like 3/4 of the way and the wheel is still poking out the door and the servo has it all the way retracted but then you gotta push the wheel up to get it to retract all the way. and then when you go to retract it down it wont retract causing the horn to bend like in the picture.
#1834
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tama,
IA
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Apparently you guys are using a different unit than I did. I used the one specified in the instructions, which had a plastic actuator horn. I did not have any problems with the retract unit itself. I used the separate air ram mounted up by the servos. Never a problem, once I got the doors to open. Up or down. The only problem I had was not enough turn radius/movement.
#1837
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
going to be using this from TBM for tail wheel retract
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...ELRETRACT.html
it works and moves a lot better with out no binding then robarts and is around the same size as well.
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...ELRETRACT.html
it works and moves a lot better with out no binding then robarts and is around the same size as well.
#1840
Senior Member
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: On a Grass Strip,
NC
Posts: 546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My opinion is that a 30cc gasser would be too much engine for this airframe, but that seems to be the trend. TF recommends 25cc max in 2 and 4 stroke power, (they don't even list gas as a option) so 30cc in gas would be about right because gas power does not produce the same amount of power as 2 and 4 stroke engines. Gas is less power. When I say "too much", I'm talking about the extra shake and rattle that's going to be transferred to the fiberglass fuselage. Not sure if the glass is thick and stiff enough to handle a larger gas engine. It would probably be ok, as I'm sure their are plenty flying with gas power. I would just be concerned about the glass fuselage. My friend has one that he is planning on putting a OS 1.60 twin 4 stroke in, and it has the power of a strong 1.20 4 stroke. Matt Chapman put a OS 1.60fx 2 stroke in his and said it was way overpowered with it. When he flew it, he rarely went over 1/2 power for normal flying. Good luck!
#1841
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin,
CA
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I flew my Stagg for years with a Evolution 35cc gasser in it with great results. Never had any problems with parts breakage or vibration problems. Well over 300 flights. My plane was a little on the heavy side (I tend to re-inforce and strengthen areas) and I didn't think it was overpowered.
Last edited by rslstft; 04-27-2014 at 01:16 PM.
#1843
rslstft,
A couple of questions about the install of the Evo 33. In the manual the distance from the firewall to the front face of the thrust washer is 6 inches. The Evo 33 with the stock wrap around muffler is approx 8 inches, I see in your pics above that it looks like you used a Bisson muffler. One thing I'm pretty anal about is mufflers sticking out the side of the cowl on a scale ship. Did you use the Bisson to move the engine back to get the proper distance to the front of the cowl? Did you try to use the wrap around muffler? And, did you have to add any nose weight? That Evo engine is pretty large, so I'm thinking adding nose weight should be minimal. I have a Syssa 30cc engine that would probably work, but it's pretty light when compared to other engines. I'm looking forward to your input! Thank you!
FB
A couple of questions about the install of the Evo 33. In the manual the distance from the firewall to the front face of the thrust washer is 6 inches. The Evo 33 with the stock wrap around muffler is approx 8 inches, I see in your pics above that it looks like you used a Bisson muffler. One thing I'm pretty anal about is mufflers sticking out the side of the cowl on a scale ship. Did you use the Bisson to move the engine back to get the proper distance to the front of the cowl? Did you try to use the wrap around muffler? And, did you have to add any nose weight? That Evo engine is pretty large, so I'm thinking adding nose weight should be minimal. I have a Syssa 30cc engine that would probably work, but it's pretty light when compared to other engines. I'm looking forward to your input! Thank you!
FB
#1844
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tustin,
CA
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FB,
I'm not sure of the dimensions of the EVO 33 as they might be a little different from the 35GT (turned into the 40GT a little later on). It LOOKS about the same, but the older 35's didn't have the rear mounting lugs, just the beam mount. Anyway, if I would have used the wrap around muffler, I would have either had to move the engine pretty far forward with the carb sticking out of the cowl, or modified the lower front of the fuselage with a cut-out for the muffler as the fuselage sticks into the cowl quite a bit.
I'm not much for mufflers sticking out either, but I didn't feel like doing all the work to get the wrap around muffler to fit, after all, it is just a fun fly ARF. I also added nose weight, but I don't remember exactly how much now, I think somewhere around 8oz.
One thing I did do, and I'm sure I hear a bunch of negative comments about it, was added a gyro on the rudder. With the narrow gear, it can be quite a handful on takeoff and landing. With the JR370a gyro onboard, I could straddle the centerline of the runway and make a nice straight takeoff (I fly off pavement), while another Stagg at the field would be all over the runway before getting in the air. I can hear everyone saying "Learn how to use the rudder", well, I do know how to and I'll bet they have never flown a Stagg. One of our club members owns a full scale Stagg and he says even that one is a handful on take off and landing.
Even thought it requires your attention while flying, it is one of my favorite planes, so much so that I have a spare one new in the box.
I'm not sure of the dimensions of the EVO 33 as they might be a little different from the 35GT (turned into the 40GT a little later on). It LOOKS about the same, but the older 35's didn't have the rear mounting lugs, just the beam mount. Anyway, if I would have used the wrap around muffler, I would have either had to move the engine pretty far forward with the carb sticking out of the cowl, or modified the lower front of the fuselage with a cut-out for the muffler as the fuselage sticks into the cowl quite a bit.
I'm not much for mufflers sticking out either, but I didn't feel like doing all the work to get the wrap around muffler to fit, after all, it is just a fun fly ARF. I also added nose weight, but I don't remember exactly how much now, I think somewhere around 8oz.
One thing I did do, and I'm sure I hear a bunch of negative comments about it, was added a gyro on the rudder. With the narrow gear, it can be quite a handful on takeoff and landing. With the JR370a gyro onboard, I could straddle the centerline of the runway and make a nice straight takeoff (I fly off pavement), while another Stagg at the field would be all over the runway before getting in the air. I can hear everyone saying "Learn how to use the rudder", well, I do know how to and I'll bet they have never flown a Stagg. One of our club members owns a full scale Stagg and he says even that one is a handful on take off and landing.
Even thought it requires your attention while flying, it is one of my favorite planes, so much so that I have a spare one new in the box.
#1845
Hi,
I did rip all internal structure and reassembeled all upfront. First ASP 160 but got a nice offer on a OS 160 twin and the combo is outstanding. The light version flies so much better than all other videos I have seen. Larger (heavier) engine and equipment does not make this a better plane.....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10769083
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10773432
I did rip all internal structure and reassembeled all upfront. First ASP 160 but got a nice offer on a OS 160 twin and the combo is outstanding. The light version flies so much better than all other videos I have seen. Larger (heavier) engine and equipment does not make this a better plane.....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10769083
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post10773432
Last edited by affas; 05-07-2014 at 12:07 AM.
#1849
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montgomery Village,
MD
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That Robart plastic tailwheel retract is garbage! I went with the miracle all aluminum tail wheel retract TBM offers. its the same size as the robart. I ended up changing the strut on the miracle cause they give you a spring style strut which really don't work all to well.
#1850
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nixa, MO
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That Robart plastic tailwheel retract is garbage! I went with the miracle all aluminum tail wheel retract TBM offers. its the same size as the robart. I ended up changing the strut on the miracle cause they give you a spring style strut which really don't work all to well.