When I was running the stock gear, it wobbled a BUNCH, but seemed OK. But when I fell out of a harrier and hit hard, it really busted up the bottom of the fuse. I'm using H9 AL gear, modified, and it is way better. I bet Composite would be even better.

BTW the ST300 is now running a 20x6 pro zinger, and OMG!!! This thing is SOOOOO sweet with the power to back up the not so hot pilot!

Has anyone moved their batterry aft for the Fuse sheeting? I'm thinking about putting a deck part way back, but not sure if the "sticks" can hold it. Opinions?

I removed the massive downthrust by leaving off the top serrate plate behind motor mount, thus the mount pieces along with the engine upward. Now it looks like zero downthrust. Downthrust is really counter-beneficial when our CG is way aft like 6". It makes the nose pitch up at idle and inverted flight.

Good point Sean. If I ever get my CG back again, I'll do that too. What do you think of the batt aft of the Rudder servo?

Hi Mike,

They gear is not much wider than the fuse, about a 1/4 to 3/8 is all. Once I centered it on the fuse it doesn't look so bad. I have seven flights on mine and thus far the gear is great. But heck, this model touches down like a feather so I am in no way stressing it. Mine is covered in UltraCote and I was afraid that it would bubble up from flexing -- so far it has not.

I flew mine again today. I have the crow pretty much dialed in and on high rates it will flat spin. The CG is set so that it pretty much flies "thumbs off" inverted. Since my fuel tank is on the spar I think the CG is about 1/8 or so back from the recommended location. I'll put an ounce on the tail once I put the cowl back on. My YS 120NC is still breaking in and I need access to the regulator adjustment. After enlarging the air bleed hole in the butterfly valve it ran pretty well today so I may be over the hump... Although 8400 with an APC 17X6 is not very spectacular...

I decided to put my 180 in my US120 and bought a YS140FZ for my FunWorld. that should be fun! Just out of curiosity, what servos are you guys running in your planes?

Wow, that's quite the engine! I think you'll be happy, the manufacturer liked the YS120, so the new 140 ought to ROCK!

I am using HS605s on Elevator and Rudder. Fut3004s on ailerons/flaps. 5 cell pack. I like 605s for speed and Torque, and never have seen one that didn't center fine, though others say it's a problem. IMO

I'm using the new Hitec HS-5475HB digitals on the elevators and ailerons. I am using an HS-645MG on the rudder, and HS-425BBs on the flaps (I may promote these to 5475HBs), and a std servo on the throttle.

I am really impressed with the power draw and speed of these Hitec digitals. I am using a 5 cell 1100mah pack and after 30 minutes of flying there seems to be a lot of juice left... I need to discharge to know just how much, but the voltage is still above 6.4 volts...

If anyone is considering using standard servos for aileron, I just want to inform that I stripped a standard servo on FW3D's aileron today. It happened just when I was about to land. The left aileron dropped a bit due to the broken gear tooth, and I had to hold left aileron & rudder input to keep it flying level, and had hard time turning for final approach. So I just kept flying down wind, and it went past the fence until I couldn't see it, then landed w/ the right wing first. I damaged the right wing tip and the fuselage after the wing. The stick build-up structure behind the wing broke off and several pieces are floating inside.

I guess I could've done a better job saving it, but it could be a lot worse.

I did enjoy the tight waterfall and "flat" spins this plane offered me. With a 15 mph wind down the runway, I was doing waterfalls down the runway w/o losing much altitude. You guys should really get the elevator-flap couple working, get the CG to 6", and get at least 15 lb thrust. Remove the huge down thrust to zero. This plane is simply a ball.

Seanychen,

Are you going to fix it? Also, can you describe a waterfall to me, or tell me where to find a description?

Waterfall basically is a really tight outside loop, pivoting about the wing axis if executed well. My FW3D waterfalls pivot about the horizontal stab axis. You need to use stall to reduce the pivoting radius, that's why people juggle throttle during waterfalls.

Repair should be a 3-hour job, but I may leave it until winter. Have 2 other ARF's I want to get flying first.

I love this plane!!! With the 20x6 pro Z, it hovers at 1/3 throttle and the slow flight is awsome! Waterfall back to the hover is the funnest thing I've done. I can't do many in a row to make it look good, but I can do one, then hover, then annother, then hover. Looks great!!!

I've broke 2 props due to sloppy landings, at $20 each! I'm interested in cheaper alternatives, any advice? Ever heard of Bambula? The look good and 1/2 the price. I'm gonna order one and see.

Well I finally got the supplies together. My wife doesn't realize it but she did a great job this year for Fathers Day! I ended up getting 7 Hitec 5645's and a standard 3004 for the throtle, YS140FZ Sport, Radio South 1/4 scale CA hinges, 4-40 hardware, and a set of TNT CF gear. Any thoughts,comments or suggestions on this combo? All I need to figure out is the tank size and placement. This project looks like it will go together pretty fast. Hope this combo flies well. I have a US 120 /Saito 180 combo that is fun, but the plane is a tank. This looks like it will build a LOT lighter.

Mike

I finally tried a elevator-flap coupled flat spin and it was awesome! Normal control throws at idle and it just went into the neatest flat spin I've seen! I love the sound that a flat spinning model makes!

My YS 1.20NC is not making the power I want, and my pumped ST 3000 is looking very tempting...

I am having a lot of fun with this model and my only complaint is my habit of leaving the hatch at home when I head to the field. I guess I need to tie it to the airframe...

Galen, which way are you mixing the flaps for the spin?

The ST3000 will not disapoint you! I'm loving mine except the CG is so forward! But I recently heard a guy say "aft CG does not make up for poor 3D skills" I just got annother new model, so the FW3D has competition.

Later

The best powertrain for this vehicle is Saito 180, swinging 17x6. It's light to keep the CG right, and will waterfall this plane silly, and may even do an ascending flat spin when the flap-elevator is coupled.

Aft CG does not make up for poor 3D skill, but great 3D skill does not make up for unacceptable CG either. Both the plane setup and the pilot skill complement each other.

I peeled the bottom fuse covering aft of the wing. Once you see the wood structure (or the lack thereof), you won't be surprised that any impact will break this fuselage stick structure. I am gonna repair the sidewall stick structure, but add a balsa sheet at the bottom all the way to the tail. This should improve its lateral rigidity. Ever notice your tail is flimsy left & right?

Hi Gordo,

I have my flaps (ailerons) mixed to move opposite the elevator. I could not get the flaps to move using my 8U Super using the ele-flap mix... It doesn't seem to matter though...

I have my CG pretty far back -- maybe a little too far back. When I roll inverted it pretty much just stays where it is in the pitch axis. Elevator is pretty sensitive too, but landings are uneventful so I will leave it where it is...

Mine weights 10.8 lbs empty and with 20 oz. of YS 20/20 on board it's down right heavy! My ST 3000 will add another 14 oz plus muffler plus Perry pump since my tank is mounted on the CG... This will put me near 12 lbs sans fuel and the ST is as addicted to Methonal as the YS is so I will retain my 20 oz. tank. However, a 20X6 prop will add a lot of thrust and I want to get some airtime on this engine so I will mount the 3000 later this summer...

Well, I'm lovin' the ST3000, I'm sure others are great too. This is the most over powered I've ever had a plane. Sean, wasn't saying CG wasn't important, just that my skills aren't good enough even with the right cg. I'm trying to figure out how to get mine aft again w/o adding weight. I'm at almost 11 now.

20x6 was awsome. 20x8 was not good. 18x18 ok. I'm gonna try a bambula, as the Zinger Pro is a bit pricy @ $20. Ever used one?

Hmm, instead of Super Tigre 3000, how about OS 1.60? Anybody? It's not that much heavier than the 120 4-strokes.

I already have the ST 3000 lying around!

I agree that this model needs a stong light weight engine. Since I prefer 4C glow engines I think the YS 1.40 is the way to go, but they are expensive to own an operate... I wonder if an Irvine 1.50 would be a good 2C choice?

Dittos Galen, got the ST3000 for almost nothing NIB, never would have thought of it otherwise. My origional thought was the Moki 1.35. Not bad at $250.

First, just to be clear, and to avoid the coming wrath, "I told you so"s, etc. This is my fault, I put on the large engine, and I had 3 hard prop hits! So yes, it's my fault!!!

Good news is, I found it out on the ground. Had a prop hit (gear problem) so I was checking things out. Pulled on the prop and the firewall moved 3/8". Tonight I pulled it out fairly easily. There is a balsa tri stock glued in to join the Firewall to the ply sides, but there is very little contact. I've had some oil enter the cavity so it's gonna be hard to glue more in. I'll dowl the firewall to the ply sides, and maybe more, as well as re-glue the parts how they were.

Still love this plane, what a sight it is hovering and waterfalling!!!

I ordered some 4* CF gear from TNT, but the are still waiting on the shipment. I was wondering how weak is the stock gear? I have some reservations on using wire gear on a plane this size, but all I need is the gear to get this bird up and it could be a while before my CF gear comes in. Should I wait or just go with the stock gear until the CF gear comes in?

Mike

Mike:

Use the wire gear. Thats what I've been doing and they work quite well.

I never had a problem with the stock gear. I just needed more ground clearance, and that's when I started haveing gear trouble, when I changed to non-stock!

I just put a some 3.5" wheels. It allowed me to go up almost 1" in prop diameter. But I did also lower the thrust line by re-arranging the sandwitch plate in the soft-mount setup. I also reduced the downthrust by removing the top serrated plate. This brings thrustline more paralle & in-line with the wing, hoping it will fly more neutrally.