I think the OS 46AX I am using is in the 17 ounce range, took right at 5 ounces of lead in the nose to balance.

Well, we tried it today. The weather was perfect, virtually no wind. The weather vane at the club field suggested a slight breeze out of the east, so west to east was the takeoff plan. The 46 fired up and turning the 9X7 3 blade prop it was SCREAMING! This is plenty of power as discerened from the push-o-meter of the left hand holding the nose at wide open throttle.

Taxied a few times, need to increase the throw on the rudder for the nose wheel as it would make a 30' radius circle turn with full rudder.

Taxied to the west end of the runway, lined up, gradually put the coal to it and as it zipped by I thought for sure the canard was just starting to fly by about 200 feet into the takeoff.....rotated at about another 75 feet and as it got airborne it started turning to the right....

Right as in right for the BIG oak trees!

Got out of the throttle to abort the takeoff and it came down on the right side of the nose pretty hard....hard enough to break the canard at the fuselage and rotate it so the inside edge of the elevator crushed into the fuselage when it did a violent horizontal cart wheel. As for the landing gear, bent the nose gear back pretty good, and the mains?

the mains STAYED ON the plane! Absolutely mangled the gear, twisted and bent the right side around and under the fuselage.....but they didn't rip out and take the bottom of the fuse with them, nor did they get into the wings....thats the only damage!

Should be ready to try again in a few hours of repairs.....nothing major. Here's a photo that aint to sporty as I was swift in getting it back to the hangar. Notice the canard and the main gear!

As for the ground clearence, there is plenty. I'm starting to think that the OS 46LA might be the better engine choice than the 46AX for this particular model, as even though the LA doesn't make the power of the AX, it is about 5 or 6 ounces lighter---hence removing the additional lead in the nose might get the canard flying sooner.

Sorry to hear about the test flight. I noticed you ran with the cowling. did you notice any overheating with that arrangment. I'm still debating wheather I want to install the retractable nose gear or not. everyone seems say they need a little extra weight up front and that might be just enough.

[&o] I have crashed my Nitro Planes long-ez 6 times now trying to get it off the ground. Either
I am doing something seriouslyv wrong or this plane is seriously flawed.

I balanced my long-ez with an empty tank 5.98" back from the leading edge of the wing at the fuse.

I have no up or down thrust in the engine. I mounted it on the cross marks flush on the fire wall.

My Long-EZs vertical stabilizers at the wing tips are pointed inwards. This seems to me to be a mistake by the manufacturer or is it suppose to be like this?

I would appreciate any advise from anyone who is sucessfully flying this plane?

I consider myself to be a good R/C pilot but this plane is __issing me off!!!

Sorry to hear your having trouble with your LongEZ. I've been flying mine for some time now and have posted to numerous threads on the this model. I checked my balance point the other evening for someone here on RCU and mine balances at 16.75 inches from the leading edge of the canard. its balanced with an EMPTY fuel tank.
I may sound crazy here but you do have the canard elevator going in the right direction? They work oposite of conventional tailed aircraft. As for the verticle fins mine seem to have a slight lean to the inside also. I don't know it thats scale or a design flaw but thats the way they are. I have a retractable nose gear on mine and I see no change in flight attitude when the nose gear is retracted, it actually moves the CG back about 1/8 inch.

You may want to try something I read on the full scale LongEZ web page. If you have the nose of the model sitting at a downward angle it take tremendous amounts of elevator to rotate the plane on take off. Hence the dreaded departure stall, and believe me a canard's main wlng will stall. I had mine sitting nose down and it was a bear to get airborne. After reading that it should sit slightly nose hi on level ground I changed the nosewheel strut length a little, and it was a different airplane. Mine just lifts off nice and easy now.

Yes, I have my elevator set to pull back on the gibble the elevator goes down 1/4" with 40% expo. Push forward on the gibble the elevator goes 1/4" up with 40% expo. I will check the cg for your number. I have 3/8" up and down in the ailerons with 25% expo. I got these numbers from AK-Models web site even though their plane is a little different than my white Nitro Planes.
I have already set the nose up with a higher nose gear. I am trying to take off on grass. I have a YS 45 on mine. Thanks for the info.

jmupilot

I was wondering if you could post some pics of the nose gear installation. I have a hobbico mech. unit that I was considering installing. I haven't had alot of time to investigate that yet with some of my other builds taking up all my time. Just trying to do some research before cutting any holes if you know what I mean.

I have the RichModel .46 EZE and used input from JUMPILOT and has been good info.. Haven't had the nerve to make my third flight but.... gonna do it shortly. Used a lot of expo and I know it takes a lot of ground to get airborne. Lottsa luck EZE fliers...Cliff (Remember John Denver?)

Took my yellow Long EZ out this afternoon to work on the engine tuning....and figured I'd take the wings along while I was at it. Didn't take long to get the low end and mid range correct on the OS 46AX so I went ahead and flew it without the rear cowling.
Gets up to speed really quick now, I'd say about 200' of paved runway for the total takeoff into a slight breeze. With the exponential, the plane is very stable and fun to fly both wide open and about 50-60% power. Landing is something I'll have to get used to with this thing---as it doesn't want to come down! Shot at least 6 approaches before landing just a bit past mid runway--somewhat due to tall trees on the final out about 500'. It just glides and glides and glides!

I've got the elevator at 1/2" total throw each way with -40% exponential and the ailerons at 3/8 each way with -26% exponential, the leading edge of the canard 15mm higher than the trailing edge of the wing, and the CG spot on at 430mm back from the leading edge of the canard/152mm back from the leading edge of the wing---with NO fuel. It basically flies off on its own when it gets to speed. When setting the elevator "neutral" point I'd suggest setting the bottom of the elevator flush with the bottom of the canard, as the elevator being a symettrical shape in cross section if set with an equal "gap" from the leading edge of the elevator to the trailing edge of the canard on both the top and bottom tends to add a bit of down elevator----mine requires just a tad of up elevator (down as you are looking at it) to maintain altitude. "Jmupilot" aka Pete is da MAN! where I picked up a LOT of info on this model in getting it set up correctly. I'm having fun confirming his tips and trying to add some of my own for other Long EZ owners.

It was also an afternoon for the maiden flight of a fellow club members new "Bobcat" ARF----he used an OS 61FX for power and it really scoots! Word of caution though with that one---apparently they intended for the builder to epoxy the wings onto the fuselage---it uses an aluminum wing tube and small rod (similar to our Long EZs but the small rod is near the leading edge of the wing) yet has NO connection for the wings to the fuselage! While running the engine up on the ground, at full throttle the left wing would seperate from the fuselage about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and stay that way until power was reduced to idle, where the left wing would then slide along the tube/rod back to the side of the fuselage.....and the right wing would then move out the 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from the side of the fuselage! They wound up putting a #64 rubber band around the fuselage pushing it back over the leading edge of the wing to fly it.

I handed the transmitter of my Long EZ to the Bobcat pilot in mid air and asked him what he thought. He flew it wide open for a few passes and then slow flight to see what the stall was like---it would stall and drop the right wing but wasn't violent or anything. He was very impressed with the slow speed flight, and like myself made several approaches that were on the high/fast side.

I asked him "compared to the Bobcat, which one do you like better? His reply was "Heck, I like BOTH of them, I'll have to get one of those (Long EZ) also!"

Rube, You're becoming "THE" source for info on the EZE... There is another thread for the BOBCAT, that hopefully wiill see your info..Perhaps you could go there and post that info... Gonna make flight #3 on the EZE soon, one more Scotch should do it...

Nah, I'm just trying to supplement Pete's tips for having success with the Long EZ around here. I just wish I hadn't aborted "maiden flight #1" and put it in the dirt breaking the canard and bending up the landing gear, which by the way are very easy to bend/hammer back into shape and the canard is actually a built up structure. Looks like a solid piece of balsa, but it is built up and sheeted. And as far as recovering the repaired canard, the closest match to the Chinacote Yellow is that Hangar 9 "Ultracote?" that the local hobby shop only had in a roll of yellow/black small checkered squares. Different but appealing we think!

I'll cut and paste the Bobcat info to that thread.

Dave (as in not the brother of Carl!)

Well, anyway, twix you two, my fate is in your hands..... just a note.. I paid $115.00 for my EZE......feel culpable? Cliff

My dad just got one of these and built it with no problems, the only question we were unsure of was the direction that the elevator goes to take the plane off. We figured out that it would be reversed so off to the flying field. It took off pretty good with the only problem being that it took almost the entire field to get lift off. We read somewhere to put both ailerons up about 1/16" and seemed to work pretty good. No trim was needed but pulling into a loop was pretty scary the first time, it went up and went into a spin and I lost control once the plane lost airspeed, I regained control and did not do any more rolls. Landed the first attempt, it is a sure floater but landed gracfully. Here are some pics. I am the test pilot, my dad just started and loved the "unique" planes, always being over his skill to fly.

Congratulations! Another one in the air! What engine/prop combo are you running on yours? Noticed yesterday after flying mine between wide open and 50-60% power for at least 15 minutes we still had a half tank of fuel left!

Dave

my dad and i have a 46ax with 10x7p. it is fast, boy does this plane roll nice!!

Im the dad who built this Yellow-Bird EZ-Long. My test pilot, Dan, did a great job on the initial. Spent a lot of time researching to get the correct elevator and aileron settings. Hope I get up the courage soon to try my hand on the sticks. Sure ate up most of our runway (grass) before it hopped up into the air, but flew with conviction once aloft.

My son thinks I need to go back to more conventional airplanes. We'll see. Any ideas on another novel plane?

As far as a "novel plane" I'd say the Long EZ is about as novel as it gets---there is a 40 size "Quickie" that is a really funky looking deal, and then there is the 120 size Gee Bee R2 that I bought at the same time as the Long EZ. Currently working on the Gee Bee, it looks nice---it's already been dubbed "the flying watermelon" around here and for about $150 it is hard to beat.

I've been in this hobby with my Dad as well for the last 31 years---he's 86 now, finally retired about a couple months ago as a Consulting PE designing bridges for the past 60 years. Still builds our airplanes but hasn't flown much in the past couple years due to his losing his eye sight to glaucoma and demacular generation (sp?), but he's still the sharpest tack in the box and I don't know what I'd do without him!

I put an EZ 46 together, and you are all correct, the plans are not much use.

CG was no problem with an empty fuel tank, I have not gotten enough experience to second guess the mfg.

The first time I flew the bird, it flew great, towards the end of the flight, I got a little cocky, and tested the stall tactics of the plane, only problem is that I was only about 15 feet off the ground, and you guessed it, nosed in.

Repaird, and went to fly again, this time, I must have changed radio setting or something, had too much control surface, and the bird got real squarelly on me and nosed in real good.

I ordered new nose cone and weight, pulled the canard apart, and am getting ready to put it back together. Sure would like to have a set of plans for correct length of the nose, etc.

Love the plane, but it is a challenge.

Hank

Bump. You guys still flying the LongEZ? havent seen any activity here for a while.

Pete

Pete,

Check out the "Long-EZ 46 Conversion to Electric" forum. I'll be posting some new images of my progress later today.

Steve

here's the link to the past threads. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_34..._2/key_/tm.htm




Pete

Flew my Long-EZ this afternoon, along with my Rutan Quickie 40. It's quite enjoyable to be "the guy with the really odd looking planes" at the flying field.

I might try one of the Rutan Defiants next, but if a twin engine plane is what I'd like to have, the little Hobbico Twinstar is a really dandy looking little twin.....and I could have two of them for the cost of the one Defiant.

I think i'm going to balance mine with 1/2 tan, i have a 10 oz. tank in mine.
i didn't like the quality of the canopy. I made my own cockpit floor with the
canopy glued to it so i can remove it without worrying about it.
I replaced the nose gear with a Fults strut. Going with OS 50SX.
I understand this thing is fast, bet it looks good in the air.

help please
dose anyone know witch way the main landing gear go on long easy.one way is tapered and the other is flat.
lar air

Tapered side goes towards the front

You will find that it takes off easier with the taper on the rear side.

Jim