Bigansady that is exactly what I was thinking about doing...and how it should come from the factory. Cutting up that purty FG cowl is just wrong and that way is way closer to scale. That deserves an email to H9 for incorporation....

i have put monokote marking and insignia on large 1/5 gas warbirds using the windex technique. spray windex on the surface apply the monokote the regular iron on stuff not the stickey trim stuff set into place and squeegee the decal (insignia) with a credit card set aside to dry they will not come off and not bubbles. i have flown a tg gs p-47 for 2 years and all stars and bars and id numbers were done this way no probs. if yoiu use heat bubbles will occur and it will look terrible.
for stickers use the windex method treat as a decal squeege the windex and let dry they will stay on. Its best to glass and paint like my ;pica p-40 but sometines i want in the air soon. HAVE YOU HEARD TF IS COMING OUT WITH A B-25 ARF FOR GAS OR ELECTRIC!!!!
LOOK AT LATEST man!

btw im putting an axi electric in my hellcat. no cowl holes and a scale engine

Putting a thick washer on the balsa blocks on the side mounts can open up some air space - on mine it was about an 1/8 of an inch each side. That should help with airflow. I haven't flown mine yet, but prolonged full power ground runs don't seem overly hot. A little rich on the carb setting helps keep it cool too but we'll see first flight how hot it really gets.

The black pipes on the left side are real and I put fake ones on the right side. With some holes on the bottom but excluding the gap the washers created, the ratio of out to in is slightly in favour of out. I also used some small baffles on the inside of the cowl to control airflow.

got the wing all finished up now and i am now waiting on the new fuse from horizons to come so i can get started on that . but the other one they told me to keep and i have taken the firewall out of it and made a new one out of 1/4 ply and going to epoxie and glass it and save it some one will need it down the road

motorman......Inverted engines dont like me....never have, and Ive learned hard lessons with inverted engines.
That said, MDS engines run hot anyway.
They (MY 78) are dense and heavy, but the power is smooth and strong. Im runnin a 3blade 13/8 and I beleive I could go bigger if I wanted to.
Im gonna try a 14 /8 3 blade on rarebears ST 90.
My MDS has been hangin in the ole stuka for a few years.....bearing rust...................all that ................old school burn it out crap, and I'll keep alot of good glow plugs til all the crap is out of the motor.........
.......Its runnin perfect now, after tweaking the low end for the Texas heat and humidity. Folks dont like MDS engine beacause they are sensitive to low end settings, and unlike most engines, you really notice how the two needles effect eachother.
After turning the low end needle IN 172 degrees, and opening up the high end to 4cycle running, and then slowly closing it off, I get a summer needle setting thats way different from the rest of the year.
The motor runs fine now, although it will benifit from more use........and Folks please ...........dont bother me with bearing care and how to store engines and all that........

Hepdog..Hope your cowl dont crack........ On mine, I releived the mount blocks and added a thin slice of silicone to take up the space, and re-glassed (thin CA) the area about 2 inches around the mount holes in the cowl. I simply tightin the screw, which is a tight fit, until the cowl starts to distort into the silicone, and them back it off a little bit. This keeps cowls with that mount system, in good shape for alot of flights. I do understand you did it for cooling, but I think your benefit would be minimal at best, and risk of cracking the cowl up ......high.
But remember that thin ca will fix it nicely with minimal weight.. I do hope it works out for you.
And get that supertiger sticker off of there!!!!>>>>NOW! [X(][:@] LOL
Say man.....wont the stock fuffler fit in there?
Be careful not to over-tighten that hose clamp......you WILL distort the cylinder case.

Timothy, I think your color application method is correct but the info may be better put to use in the "beginner" section.........
The electric conversion will set well with the hellcat for sure....its sooo light!

RedneckT.....Wanna ship me that fuse?
I will scale the thing out......just think of all those panel lines.......MMMMM Let me know.
Why did you have to get another fuse?
I must have missed somethin...........

Flyin the thing again tomorow...time for some airbrake......STOL carrier ops!
YES !
I cant wait!
BTW: all I did to my firewall was to reglue it. I didnt have to add anything to it. It is fine, and will be fine.
d

bignasdy

when i removed the hot melt the fire wall fell out , it wasnt in there very well , but its fixed now and glassed in with 1/4 ply and nope ill be keeping it i was thinking of ordering a new wing set and put it together with robart gear if i change my mind ill let ya know

Bignasdy thanks for the info. I'm not worried about cracking the cowl - now that the washers are there. Before the screws were flexing it inward and placing it under quite a load. Now it is just even - the cowl slides over with no stress at all. A little dab of RTV on the final install should smooth vibrations.

The stock muffler isn't even close to fitting - and was too restrictive anyway. It was really quiet with just that tiny little exhaust hole. This pitts style is much better - has a real nice low note and a bit of a snarl to it. Damn slimers are noisy anyway so it might as well sound good. I figured as much about clamp tightness so once again high temp RTV to seal it up - the clamp is just snug. So far no leaks.

I've had those Tiger stickers for a long time - waiting for a use. The nose was bare, it IS a HellCAT, a tiger is a cat, its powered by a SuperTiger so....1+1=3 kindof thing.

I will most likely cut up the lower fuse on each side an put some cooling slots like you did on top. That and some more baffles inside and it should be good on the hottest of days.

cool guys...yall know what your doin and thats nice.
Flew all mornin..what a nice flyin plane.
No poblems at all.......same rough feild.[8D]
d

For cooling you should only cut the area out in front of the cylinder head. You are defeating the purpose of the baffle by cuting out between all of the cylinders. You want all of the airflow over the cylinder head. I just remove the one cylinder head in front of the real head and have no problems with the engine overheating. Here in Las Vegas we fly on day's with the temperature well over 100 degrees.

Hellcat716,
I totaly agree with you on the baffling thing. All of my planes which are colwed in have only the portion infront of the head open. Most of the time, I have to block the other side like with a Cap or Extra. Even my Shoestring runs noticibly cooler with the otherside blocked off.
Are you running a Saito 1.00.

Saito 100 inverted.

I understand what you are saying about using the fake motor as a baffle. I cut them all open cause I thought the crankcase and especially the muffler could use some cool airflow. To compensate for all that air rushing in unorganized, I actually baffled the cylinder head inside the cowl so it has its own dedicated influx and efflux (plus I cut up the fuse for a channel behind the head). That's how all the piston slappers I ever flew were cowled so hopefully that works here to. Electric would have been sooo much easier...

For the gear, I think it would be pretty easy to add the forward facing small gear doors. Anyone given that much thought? I think I will need to do it to keep all the slime off the retract mechanism - although at least one side will be well lubed

Got 2 maiden flights in tonight - absolutely a sweet flying airplane but a bugger to land (at least the way I have it set up). I can land it just fine actually, but getting it stopped is another issue. We have a large sized short grass feild and with no wind I was using up the entire feild on ground roll. Ultimately I drove er in the weeds off the end but absolutely no damage to the cowl or the gear ( it didn't look pretty but wasn't that rough really).

My idle is as low as I can realistically go - on the last flight I was even trying to kill the motor on roll out. I flew as long and low and low power final as I dare but the thing just keeps going and going and going.... I guess I should prop down to get more disc drag at idle. Using a 13-8 and it lifts off at 1/4 throttle so I guess its overpowered and overpropped. Now I have to seriously think about those top gear doors for some drag - that or speed brakes ...or an arrester wire across the feild

Really pretty in the air and sounds pretty good.

they should have flaps!!!!! their p-40 is like that hot and fast onlanding! have to x control to slow her down. it wouldnt take much design work on h-9 to get the flaps in but to cut a premade wing with no idea of what the structure is WRONG. THEY SHOULD STUFF A SET OF PLANS IN THE BOX SO WE CAN SEE WHATS IN THERE

richin up your idle some........that'l allow it to turn slower .......Ive Had no problems slowing down. I do have airbrakes set up and active but havent tried them yet.
It lands like a trainer but looks like the old footage of ww2 fighters skimmin and hoppin across muddy feilds.
I flew mine today as well. What a nice little ole plane.
Glad it went well for ya!
d

could you please explain how you have airbrakes set up on yours? I am guessing a 9cap (or the like) and you are using the ailerons and a dial switch to move the flaps up (or down) in unison???

Im using a super 6xas futaba. (You may also use a mixer........I think)
1 aileron is pugged into the #1 rec. slot......the other into # 6. Airbrake is then activated in the tx. I mixed in about 15% down elevator when the airbrakes go up. This will all have to be adjusted when I get to using them. I have about 40% up aileron and 15% down elevator as a starting point.
I activate the flptrm(flaptrim) knob, and I can use this to raise the ailerons up or down, but the elevator stays nuetral.
I dont use them as flaps because it will induce a stall. If they were strip ailerons, they could be lowered, but depending on the plane....could still induce stall.
Also , from my expeiences, when the airbrake is on, aileron response is much much less than normal. I dont recomend hitting the airbrakes on the down leg, but rather after the turn on final.
If you are going too fast..the plane will baloon. Loose airspeed on the down leg.
I like to be lined up, barely up on thr throttle to keep flying, hit the airbrakes at the end of the runway.
Makes the nose pitch up and the plane settle in nicely. When I get it all set, thats how I will do it.
Now....you can set it up how ya want.........to acheive whatever you want with whatever plane yopu want.
Just remember that aileron response is nil when brakes are deployed.
I'll be using them this week sometime and will work out the %s.
Hope that helps ya!
d

yes, thanks. so the ailerons essentally kill off some of the lift??? How are the airbrakes different from spoilers?

airbrakes are spoilers.
The ailerons dont kill lift...they kill speed when raised or lowered, and actualy creat lift, ( I dont want to argue all the technical aspects of different design and function)........... With barn door ailerons like these, you want to raise them for brakes to reduce tip stall.
d

ok, thanks again!!

Changed props, lowered the idle just a tad more and now she lands AND rolls out like a fast trainer. Still uses up a fair amount of real estate but manageable. Did 4 flights tonight with alot of touch and go's. No gear issues and no overheating issues. In fact by the time I taxi it close to me to check the temps they are quite low - and it was hot and muggy tonight - around 28c.

What props are you guys running with a Saito 1.00 in the Hell Cat. I plan on running the engine on the stand this weekend. I picked up a MA 14/8 and a 15/6. I would like to run a 14/7 three blade, but I do not know how the 1.00 will turn it on 10%.

13/8 naster airscrew but Im goin to a 14 8 for sure.
d

Doesnt any of you have a video camera? geeesh...