PropSpinner

My Feedback: (15)

Look what I just found. [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN4200]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN4200[/link]I think i just might need to order one. What engine would you guys suggest?

gjeffers

there must be some mistake in the specs, it shows wingspan at 54in and the length as 56in?????
my 40 size Do is bigger than that
although the weight sounds right.

PropSpinner

My Feedback: (15)

No, the specs are right. The 40 size is:

Wing Span: 47.75 in (1212.85mm)
Overall Length: 48.38 in (1228.73mm)
Wing Area: 747.37 sq in (48.2 sq dm)

The 60 size Twist is :

Wing Span: 54.75 in (1391mm)
Overall Length: 56.6 in (1438mm)
Wing Area: 992 sq in (64 sq dm)

It weighs about a pound more.

gjeffers

have seen a few twists, i have a 60 size ucd and it has a 65 in span and is 68 in long, just a big difference i guess!!

garywi

My Feedback: (3)

I just ordered one. What do you think of the OS 61 for this?

PropSpinner

My Feedback: (15)

It should fly fine with an O.S. 61. Plenty of people put the 61 on the 40 size Twist. You could probably go larger. Did it come yet? Can you show some pictures?

jawbuy

My Feedback: (3)

Two weeks ago i asked my local hobby shop if they have seen the new twist 60,he said (they made a 60 size?)today i went there to get a 2 dollar part and he said (remember that twist 60 you were asking about well there it is)and he sold it to me for 135 dollars so i jumped on it.i have an evo 100 to put in it and I'm not sure what servos to use.

PropSpinner

My Feedback: (15)

$135! That's a good price! You would never get a hobby shop around here to take $15 off the internet price. They usually want $15 more.

Which servos you get depend on how much you want to spend. My budget would allow analog servos and probably standard ones. The manual says you can use standard JR 537's.

garywi

My Feedback: (3)

My Twist 60 arrives Thursday. I went with a OS .61. I hope this is not underpowered. What prop do you recommend?

Thanks!

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

See how it goes with an APC 14X4.


edit:APC

mstcitabria

gjeffers,
A fellow Club Saito member, see you in Club Saito all the time. Thinking about putting my Saito 100 in the new Twist 60, anybody flying that combo wanna comment ?

mstcitabria

Club Saito #147

bobkra

My Feedback: (13)

I picked one up yesterday at the LHS. I have a Saito 100 with no home and I thought maybe a 60 size UCD would be a good place for it and it was my intention to pick one up. I like my 40 size pretty well but it's not nearly the plane my Kyosho Flip is. Anyway, they had 2 of the Twist 60's sitting there which had just arrived. I opened one up and was amazed at the extent of prebuilding; all pre-hinged, openings cut for servos, wheels installed on LG, pre-bent control rods, pre-installed horns and it has a bolt on tail assembly. How easy does it get? I didn't even check for a UCD; I just bought the Twist.

I spent most of today putting it together. Had I chosen the 2 stroke engine or electric motor setup, it'd be done with time to spare. With the Saito however, there's just no decent way to hook up the throttle. I switched the carb orientation back and forth several times and looked at it from several different angles but the best I could come up with was to build a replacement hatch that would hold an HS81 and have a rod run from it to the carb arm over the top of the hatch. It won't look pretty but it'll be functional. I believe it would be possible to squeeze a rod on the far port side and bend it such that it might work but I absolutely hate using bent rods.

Noteworthy items include - the pre-hinging is nice from the standpoint of saving time but I actually would have preferred to go with nylon piano hinges. Only the control surfaces are beveled so with tight CA hinging, throws are somewhat limited. I was still able to get everything to travel well beyond what the book calls for on high rates, but I think it could handle even a bit more.

The tail wheel that comes pre-installed is the type that's driven directly off the rudder. I cut it off and installed a Sullivan spring drive unit. The rear tail assembly bolt can be used as the front hold down for it.

The book calls for only standard servos which seems a bit light for use with the Saito so I used HS5625MG's all around. I don't think the size of the rudder is such that it deserves anything more. BTW, I'll be running 6 volts.

The CG came out with the receiver and battery in the center of the wing compartment. There's acres of room to move them around so CG experimenting should be a breeze.

There's room for as much as an 18 inch diameter prop so those of you so inclined could easily put a 125 on it. I'm starting out with an APC 16X4W and there's tons of clearance.

The control rods that come with it are what I'd call bare minimums. They're pretty short which is their saving grace. If you're going with the 2 stroke and standard servos I'm sure they'll be more than enough.

The plane seems to be built very strong and they did a great job gluing it together. I usually have to add quite a bit of epoxy and CA to fill in missed spots but this plane needed none. That's a first.

IMHO, H9 has set a new standard of pre-build level and quality with this plane. If it flies as good as it looks like it will, I'll be drooling with anticipation for what they come out with next. One big miss though; they should have made provision for the Saito 100 especially since their web site and even the box says it's designed with that engine in mind.

Maiden flight is scheduled for this Sunday.

lair300s

Had the same problem when i put a saito 82 in my 40 twist. I mounted a servo arm out in front of carb. connected rod from servo to bottom of arm than ran a rod back to carb from top hole, arm pivots in center throttle works great.

mstcitabria

bobkra,
Thanks for the info, very helpful. My LHS said he would sell his last one in the shop for $130, to good to pass up! Please post more info once you get some airtime, thanx! Good luck on your maiden!
mstcitabria

Shocker1000

My Feedback: (2)

I'd like to see some pictures of it if anyone has any.

bobkra

My Feedback: (13)

Enjoy!

Ernie Misner

Clean throttle linkage!!! That muffler looks like it might keep the plane cleaner by point upward?

Ernie

PropSpinner

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the pictures bobkra. Looks like a nice ARF. I like the painted landing gear. You did a good job on the linkage, K.I.S.S. I always say. Hope the weather is nice so you can get out and test fly this weekend. I can't wait to here if it does as good as the 40 size.

garywi

My Feedback: (3)

I have this plane. It was so great in that most of the assembly was done out of the box. Even the antenna tube is installed and runs down the fuse and curves out the bottom near the tail. The hatch has magnets on it to hold it down.

Problem: I can't get the wing to fit in the fuse. The dowel and holes do not line up.

Any one have this?

Gary

dutchalltheway

Bobkra,
Thanks very much for the information and the pictures..you did a good job!
Your maiden should be today.....I can't wait to hear from you how the maided went.

Yeah...the linkage looks different for sure, for the throttle, but heck...it sure is functional....

Good luck with the maiden...I'll be monitoring this tread for your response for sure!!

CCRC1

My Feedback: (13)

I brought one of these home this week. A good friend has the .40 size and he really likes it.
I have had consistent bad luck with ARf's in the past. Every one has required me tearing off covering to do major repair new out of the box. I may get lucky for the first time, with this one.
I have inspected it top to bottom, and so far I can find nothing cracked or broken, nor have I found any poorly glued parts.(thats a first for me) The covering is above average and the wood looks to be decent balsa and lite-ply. The control horns and hinge installation was all done at the factory and looks to be done correctly. I have one aileron with a bit of clicking, but I can correct that.
The wing dowels are to large for the matching holes in the fuse wing saddle, but the do line up. It will require I open the holes just a bit to allow the wing to seat in place properly. Not a major issue and should require just a few minutes to get right. Other than that I can find nothing to gripe about so far, and that makes me pretty happy for a change. Usually at this point, I am irritated that I have to start a major correction/fix before I can even begin assembly. I think this will be a very nice flying airplane. I am hoping I can assemble it per the instructions, and get it ready to fly without any major issues that take me away from a plans building project I currently have going. So far I see none[sm=thumbup.gif]

bobkra

My Feedback: (13)

Lack of the correct prop kept me from flying mine today as planned. The closest I have is a 15X4W (on the plane in the pictures), and the props I ordered from the LHS haven't arrived yet. I have my fingers crossed for Tuesday. BTW, here are some more pics of the engine installation and one comparing the Twist tail to a U-Can-Do 40 tail.

bobkra

My Feedback: (13)

My dowels were snug at first. All it needed was to run around the inside of the hole with an allen wrench and it eased the installation. I think the holes are hardened with thin CA (I always do that myself) which makes the wood swell a bit and the allen wrench helps knock down the high / swelled spots.

sgillmore

My Feedback: (50)

For future reference, what lair300s mentioned is commonly referred to as 4-stroke linkage. Dubro actually makes a hardware package you can buy:

Dubro 4-Stroke Throttle Linkage
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD939&P=7

Just for reference, here are a couple pics. The linkage on my SIG Mayhem is homemade and bolted directly to the engine mount, the linkage on the Tiger 2 is the Dubro hardware and bolted to a small metal bracket that I fabricated. Both work great.

Let me know if you still have questions about it.

bobkra

My Feedback: (13)

Great pics... I am aware of both methods you've used and have seen them both in person. The method you used on the Mayhem requires adequate room between the fuse and the engine mount which there isn't on the Twist. I could have cut off the side of the fuse but decided against it. The bracket mount method could be made to work with a seriously bent linkage rod from the bracket arm to the carb but I don't feel a bent arm provides the same strength and feel as a direct link does, especially when hovering down low where throttle control is critical. I considered using a bracket on the opposite side by flipping the carb but you still have interference problems between the engine mount and carb arm unless you're willing to give up some throw which I wasn't. If someone can do with a bent rod, I believe the port side carb orientation might work without any extra linkage.