Hi woodscra,

I used the CA hinges supplied (including adding the extra ones as recommended), but you will find many people that will scream and say no way. I believe that if the CA hinges are installed carefully and properly, they are well up to the job(on this size plane) and will last a very long time. I did a lot of experiments with the strength of these hinges and it was always the surrounding wood that failed before the hinge...when installed properly.

Of course, on the other hand, other types of hinges will work well too, but they too are only as good as how you install them. My first choice on bigger planes has been the giant klett hinges, but you can also screw up their installation too.

There has been a lot written on proper installation of hinges, so depending on what type you end up with, I'd search on the forums and find someone that has done a thorough write-up on the proper installation of those hinges. For the CA hinges you can just follow the instructions in the DP manual.

Bill

Thanks bpryor, I will take that into consideration. When mine arrives I will know more of what I feel comfortable doing.

If I wanted to match the yellow color, which covering would I need to buy?

Thanks

DP says in the manual that it is Ultracote Light Pearl Yellow. The problem is that there is no such Ultracote color. It really is Pearl Bright Yellow. Standard, not the Plus.

Bill

Mine just came yesterday and it looks great. I would like to ask about the c.g. on this plane. The instructions read 5 3/4 - 6", and I would like to hear from those who have flown this plane if that is accurate, too much, or too little. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi woodscra,

Hey, you've obviously got one of the second batch, since that is a new range from the first batch. The first batch said 5-5 3/4" which turned out to be way conservative....and evidentally DP took notice and changed his recommendation.

I started at 5 3/4 and I'm currently at 6 1/4. The only noticeable side effect is that the elevator has become pretty sensitive, even on low rates, but it still very stable. Some people have gone as high as 7" for serious 3D, but you better know what you're doing if you go that far back.

Make sure and post you final equipment list and total weight when you finish. I'm really curious if the new batch is lighter than the first. I've seen a couple of posts with Moki 2.1's in the high 14lb range, which if these were from the second batch, it indicates around a full pound weight reduction with the new ones.

Bill

Thanks Bill, what a quick reply. I plan on weighing everything before starting, and then when completely finished. I will post when them when I get them. I am expecting 16 lbs with the Taurus 3.2 on front.

Ok, let's start a pool. The winner gets a new Radiocraft 40% Extra 330 ARF with a BME Xtreme 150. Who's going to contact Radiocraft and BME to get the donations?

I'm guessing 15lbs 6oz....of course I reserve the right to adjust my guess if you post more info on what equipment you're using.

Bill

Bill
I read Mike Glavin's review on this Extra. He mentioned that he used a seperate servo for the choke? You made no mention in your review. Is this necessary? Also, in both articles there is no mention of ignition box location. I am tring to get my Extra ready for when my Taurus arrives from the factory, probably a couple weeks away
Thanks
Paul Eagon

Hi Paul,

I didn't use a servo on the choke because of weight. I was going all out to save weight(it's only about an ounce when using a micro servo, but I was going for ounces) and made the choice to keep the choke manual. I have an arm sticking out the side of my cowl for turning the choke on and off(I'll give you details if you want to do it this way). Of course the other major benefit of the servo operated choke is that it doubles as a back up remote kill switch. I think this is the best way to do a remote kill switch if you are going to do one, it works perfectly. I chose not too, and actually regret it because I ended up needing it, and if I had had it I would have avoided a nasty situation when I experienced interference due to a loose ignition ground wire...but that's another story.

As far as the ignition box, I think Michael and I have ours mounted in the same place on the outside of the right side of the engine box. I also have my ignition battery mounted next to the ignition box. With my review on the Extra(in the review section at www.rcaerosport.com), which you probably read, you can see the ignition box in one of the pictures with the article I believe. I've posted the picture here in case it isn't in the article. Make sure and encase the ignition box in foam. I use two velcro straps through slots I cut in the engine box, to attach it. (in the enclosed picture there is only one strap, but make sure and use two criss-crossed, and in this picture the battery isn't there yet)

Bill

I saw that you did not use the taurus radial mount, would you tell me why you chose not to? Was it out of necesity? I have a taurus coming some day as well so I am greatly interested.

Your hub thing on your crankshaft looks very long, does the taurus come stock with that?

Thanks.

Hi woodscra,

Ignore my mounting. I did this to move the engine back thinking that the plane was going to be nose heavy. Funny, huh? This was in the early days of the DP Extra before people found out how tail heavy they were. The extra long hub is custom made to make up for taking the mount off. It will not be required when using the stock radial mount. I think the hub is 3/4" longer than stock.

You will want to use the stock mount and hub with yours and there will be very little adjustment necessary to get the proper clearance between the cowl and spinner.

Bill

Thanks Bill, that is good to hear. Would one of you kindly tell me what size the holes are in the Taurus radial mount to mount the engine to the firewall?

Also, what is the crankshaft size? Drill bit size for the prop?

I want to be prepared as I can be for when the engine arrives.
Thanks.

Hi woodscap,

>>Would one of you kindly tell me what size the holes are in the Taurus radial mount to mount the engine to the firewall?

3/16". The mount is 1/8" thick if you want that info to decide how long of bolt to buy.

>>Also, what is the crankshaft size? Drill bit size for the prop?

A few thou under 7/16". It's designed for you to drill the prop to 7/16". Read the thread "center drilling props?" in the Giant Scale Aircraft forum if you haven't drilled large holes in props before. It will give you some ideas on a good way to drill the hole.

Also, feel free to e-mail me directly with any Taurus specific questions like this.

Bill

I am now trying ot adjust the incidence of the stabilizer, and I have never done this before.
I am seeking the help of those who have done this before, especially for this plane.

Do you guys reference the datum line? If so, how the heck do you find it?
I am looking for as detailed instructions as you are willing to write. My left stab will only gown down a certain amount before hitting the top in the slot, while the right stab will go quite a bit further. My fear is that the left will not go down far enough to be at 0.

Is zero where I want to be?

What in the world do you guys do to be Certain that the entire plane is level?

All your help is much appreciated. I have the Robart incidence meter.

Thanks in advance for sharing.

Woodscra, the spec according to Dave Patrick is 0-0-0 for the engine wing and stab. I used my wings as the datum and leveled the plane so that the wings were at 0 degrees using a Robart incidence meter. My engine was within about 1/2 degree of this and I am sure for starting out this will be acceptable. I then place my other incidence meter on each stab half and zero them to the wing. If you do not have one already it might be in your best interest to purchase one of Robarts 3' long incidence meter bars for measuring the incidence on these larger wings.
For measuring engine incidence you can probably remove the plastic incidence meter from th bar and hold against the firewall flush. Assuming your mount/engine combo is square you can assume your engine incidence will be square to the firewall. I had a friend machine me some simple tools for setting up my engine at zero and usually set up everything off of that.
Having said this, I have not flown the plane yet and do not know that 0-0-0 is the best setup. Someone who has flown this plane may have some better input on that. I was just going by what the manual said as a starting point. I am sure there are other ways of accomplishing the end result but this has always worked for me. Hope this helps. Email me if you have any other questions, cbk

Thanks CBK, that will be very helpful, I will try just what you said and see how things are. Did you have one stab that seemed to have more movement than the other?

Another question, how are you guys mounting the fuel tank on the CG with the Wing tube in the way, and it is some cramped quarters to be working in for the CG?

Would mounting the tank up against the wing tube still bring decent results? The instruction show the fuel tank all the way up against the firewall.

Thanks

Woodscra, again, not sure this is the best way but I mounted a 1/8" thick honeycomb/carbon fiber composite plate (1/8" light ply would have been fine) on top of the wing tube. I screwed it to the bottom of the motor box with #2 screws and extended it over the wing tube. I then brilled holes and zip tied it to the wing tube. Tank is held to the plate with velcro. Will try to post pics if I get a chance. cbk

What brand and size of aluminum spinner works well on the Taurus 3.2 and will fit zinger/bolly/menz 22x8 or 24" size props?

Also, which prop adapter size do you recommend?

The Dave brown seem like they have a stronger cone and are less expensive than Tru turn.

Thanks

I have always succesfully used Tru Turn spinners and think they are of the highest quality but from what I have seen the Dave Brown Spinners look to be a good value. I actually purchased one of their 3 1/2" Ultimate spinners at the Wram Show yesterday and am pretty impressed. I do believe that both Tru Turn and Dave Brown will custom cut the spinners to fit Menz, etc. props. They are both great companies to deal with. In fact, I think some of the mail order companies are now selling Tru Turns with a Menz cut.
As far as the adapter, I am a BME guy so can not help you. Maybe someone else can chime in with the appropriate adapter. In short, your best bet would be to contact Tru Turn or Dave Brown direct as they will have the exact info you need. cbk

CBK you have been very helpful, thank you for your time. You mentioned carbon fiber sheets, where do you buy carbon fiber sheets? I cannot find a place that sells small square or rectangular sheets of carbon fiber.

Thanks again!

Aerospace Composites sells these as well as any fiberglass/Carbon/Kevlar cloth, sheets, rods, vacuum bagging, etc you may need. They do have a website but am not sure what it is (it may be www.acpsales.com). They sell the CF sheets as small as 6"x12". Let me know if you have a hard time finding their site. I believe they advertise in MAN. cbk

cbk has given you good advice. I used the composite to build my tank mount and I've enclosed a picture of it for you. If you want to see more pictures of this and other mods I made, check out the review I wrote at www.rcaerosport.com in the review section.

I'm using a Tru-turn spinner on mine, modified by Tru-turn with a menz cut, lightened backplate, drilled for the Taurus, and they supply the correct adapter too. I know Tru-turns are superb quality from experience, but I can't steer you on the Dave Brown ones as I haven't see them.

Other end of tank.

Thanks for the pics. I will consider going with tru turn for the spinner, having it custom done to fit is very nice.

Hi woodscra!

Consider a CF spinner by Pierre:

http://www.geocities.com/pierrejac/

I'm getting one next week for my AW Edge.

They're light, look awesome, and they're very cheap. He'll cut them for your prop and motor, too!