Hi woodscra,

>>Which size is suitable for a 22x8 or 24x8 menz prop, the 3.5

You want to use the 3.5. The 4" would be too big for the DP Extra. It will easily handle those size props. I have the Menz cut on the 3.5 Truturn on mine and I've used 22X8 and 22X10 Zinger Pro, 22X8 Menz S, and 22X10 Moki, and they all fit the cut out easily.

>>Has anyone tried putting the rudder servo at the tail of the 330?

I really doubt anyone has done this. The problem with this plane is tail heaviness, even with a gas motor up front. The standard location with pull-pull is the way to go.

>>I see that you just fold the wire over inside the hex piece, I don't see how this can keep the wire from coming through. Anyone care to enlighten me?

The size of the hole in the hex aluminum piece that the wire goes through is exactly the size of the wire. The folded over end, which is then clamped into position with the screw is never going to come out. There's physically no way. Just trust me, hundreds of people are using these on 40% planes without a problem. Nelson knows what he is doing with this stuff. I've used it on a 35% Radiocraft Staud, a 40% Carden Cap and the DP Extra without any problems.

>>On the performance side, my 330 with a Taurus 3.2 up front, do you think it will be able to peform an inverted flat spin with the engine weight up front?

Even with the Taurus 3.2 up front and servos all in the stock positions, you will need at least the ignition battery, and probably the receiver battery in the engine box to get it to balance in the 6" range. Move the receiver battery back and you'll be able to get to 7", probably farther than you'll want to go, but you can ask JBH about the far rearward CG range as he, and Michael Glavin are the only ones I know of that have tried this. FYI, I have mine at 6.25 and it will flat spin easily at that CG, upright or inverted.

>>has anyone had any issues of these becoming weak over several flights? Or do they seem to work well under high stress conditions?

I used them, but only for about 20 flights. I would quantify my flying as moderate to this point, without any problems. I have fair confidence they will be ok in the long run, but other people don't. If you are a radical 3D flier, I would change them out for Rocket City horns. Michael Glavin did this and has pictures and descriptions in his review of the plane. If you need the link, let me know.

Chris's DPM 330... the one I've been flying lately... is at 5-3/4" with the Taurus 3.2 and it will do a completely flat inverted flat spin. It would probably climb out if I asked it to. :-)

I would use rocket city but it is so hard to get a hold of and I have no idea what the part numbers are for certain things. Does anyone have a link with pictures of this stuff and descriptions and know of a place that sells it?

Thanks

Hi woodscra,

This won't help you much right now, but here's link to where you will be able to get everything: http://www.rocketcity.biz

Nelson Hobby (www.nelsonhobby.com) I guess also has the rights, but from my understanding will only be selling wholesale in large quantities.

Michael Glavin (mglavin) can give you exactly what part numbers you need. I'll write him and ask if he'll post the numbers here.

Bill

The exact numbers evade me presently, I'll take a look at my inventory and see if I have these parts in stock. I will then be able to provide the specific part numbers. This is a maybe...

Rocket City 6-32 hardware with 4-40 clevis's and ball links on all elevator and ailerons. These are offered with and without offset, you need to have the offset.

Rocket City 6/32 hardware with 4-40 ball links and clevis's for pull-pull rudder, again these are offered with and without offset, you need to have the offset. A 4"x 6/32 stud was used with Nelson cable and cable ends. The 4" stud was obtained from a hardware store.

Take a look at my website for some ideas and the method I used to install the Rocket City hardware.

http://mglavin.com/Extra330lreview.html

My Extra has held up very well, thus far. It's even survived a severe imapct with mother earth, been repaired and still flying today. See's routine 3D abuse. Is there any other kind of flying?

What material do you guys use to deflect the air over the engine inside your cowl? Do you glue in cardboard, or something else? And what type of adhesive do you use?

How big should the exit, or bottom of the cowl be to provide sufficient room for the air to exit?

Thanks, my first gas engine in a cowl and I don't want it fying when I try my hover.

Hi again woodscra,

I hope you're not tired of me answering your questions. Anyone else is welcome to jump in.

Ducting is an important consideration typically in large planes with twin cylinders. With the DP the engine cylinder is pointing down and you typically will have to cut the cowl to let it point down, and there is your hole where the air comes in, right over the cylinder where you want it. You won't need any baffling or ducting.

As far as exit air, the big opening at the back of the bottom of the DP cowl is plenty big enough as it is.

You really shouldn't have to do anything except cut the cowl out for the cylinder and the exhaust and it will cool fine.

Thanks, no I don't mind at all. What do you guys do for the twin cylinder planes, what material and adhesive? I am interested as I will some day get a 33% and this would be very useful.

How big of an exit hole is needed?

Bill:
Couple quick questions (still waiting for Taurus so don't have in hand) Does it take small or large fuel tubing? I had a tru-turn spinner for the YS140 I was going to use on the Extra - do I just need to call Tru-turn for an adapter kit for the Taurus?
Thanks
Paul

Hi Paul,

The small(med) size gas tubing will work fine on this motor, though some people do use large. If you do, you'll need to put the large tubing in your tank too. I am using the small tubing.

Yes, you will need an adapter kit from Tru-turn, and if you don't have access to a machine shop, you need them to precisely enlarge the hole in the spinner backplate to the correct diameter. It is VERY important this is done accurately. Don't do it with a drill press!

Bill

What adhesive did you guys use to glue on the plastic tail fairing? Would cutting the covering and exposying provide the best hold, or I have some canopy glue that holds real well, I just don't know if it will keep it on for 100 flights.

Thanks for sharing.

The canopy glue will work fine. I used 5-min epoxy. A neat little trick is to use a safety pin to poke numerous small cavities into the wood through the covering to allow the glue to bond to something other than the Ultracote...

On the spinner adapter...

I purchased a 5/16" fine thread stud and replaced the bolt that came with the Taurus engine. I then purchased the appropriate Tru-Turn spinner adapter. Much nicer setup than the stock bolt...

The fuel line known, as medium to gassers is best served on this engine and tank assembly. Be sure you purchase and use a "gasser" tank stopper. The are various grades and or qualities of fuel tubing used for gasser's. Silicone is an absolute "no-no". Tygon the yellow stuff is very popular, not the best, however. There are a few products offered by others such as Prather and Aerotrend that are far superior. Another nice trick when building a gasser tank is too use a filter clunk that is typically used and sold by mower repair shops. These have a heavy weight and felt surrounding the clunk. They are very desirable for our applications. Around $3.00 a piece. Weed eaters use them.

Another worthwhile gadget offered by Dubro when building gas tanks is the fuel line ferrule or barbs they are offered in two sizes. These neat little doodads are soldered in place over the brass tube to prevent the fuel line from slipping off. You can also use the next size up brass tube and make your own fuel line barbs.

Aircraft ply is generally used for the baffles, some use balsa. Epoxy, shoo-goo, PFM, Silicone or whatever is adequate to hold these parts in place.

Rocket City p/n# 69C was used on the ailerons, elevator and rudder on my DPM Extra. A .340 offset is provided to line up the hinge line.

I finally got the wings covered. Have to get this one off the bench. Still have two more projects to complete and spring is getting close! cbk

Where can I get a set of graphics to finish this thing? Thanks, cbk

Last pic

Canone use JB weld just as well for glueing on these dubro fuel barbs?

Thanks

Bill Pryor:
Got my Taurus a couple days, looks like a piece of art. Couple questions. I assume you remove the throttle spring so as to not put a load on the servo and remove the idle stop so you can kill the engine with the transmitter if need be. After installing the engine, the pitts muffler is very close to the underneath motor box. How hot do these mufflers get? Should I worry about less than 1mm clearance and alter the box a little? Also, after looking at the direction of travel on the choke, it looks like you would have to have a double bellcrank to actuate it from a servo? Manual looks the way to go. How do you activate yours? Also, I notice the Champion plug they sent me does not say it is a resister type and I have always heard you should use one? Do you use the supplied prop bolt? Have not received my new Tru Turn spinner yet so I don't know what comes with the adaptor kit?
Thanks Paul

Hi woodscra:

I bet the JB Weld would work, but I wouldn't put anything in the tank, or that is in contact with gas, that could come off. I do something a bunch simpler that works well. I take an x-acto blade and score the brass tubing at a backward angle in several places all around the tubing(mini barbs)....and of course clamp the tubing too. BTW, I've used the small plastic ties too, but they don't clamp as uniformly, or as tightly as safety wire.

Hi Paul:

>>I assume you remove the throttle spring so as to not put a load on the servo

I didn't. It's a really light spring and it provides a safety back up in case the throttle linkage comes undone.

>> and remove the idle stop so you can kill the engine with the transmitter if need be.

Yes.

>>After installing the engine, the pitts muffler is very close to the underneath motor box.

I had to cut away the bottom of the box to clear my muffler, but if it clears at all, it will be fine. It won't get hot enough on the muffler can to burn anything.

>>Also, after looking at the direction of travel on the choke, it looks like you would have to have a double bellcrank to actuate it from a servo?

Yes. If you want to do a servo actuated one, that is true.

>>Manual looks the way to go. How do you activate yours?

I used a manual setup because I was carried away with saving weight, though a micro servo actuated one would only weigh about an ounce total. Here's a description of how I did my manual one:

I mounted a ball link on the choke arm, then using a 4-40 nylon fitting on the ball I ran a 4-40 threaded rod out the cowl and put a small threaded cap on the end outside the cowl. For putting the cowl on and off I just screw and unscrew the rod out of the nylon fitting on the ball link. You can see the link through the front of the cowl to line it up and I just stick a screw driver up through the bottom of the cowl to keep it pointing in right direct while starting the rod. It might sound complicated, but it actually works quite well and is quick to get on and off.

>>I notice the Champion plug they sent me does not say it is a resister type and I have always heard you should use one?

The one that comes with the engine is a resistor type. You can always tell by the number on the plug. If you have any doubt you can look the number up on a plug chart and it show that it is a resistor type. I think they come with an RCJ7Y which is a resistor plug.

>>Do you use the supplied prop bolt? Have not received my new Tru Turn spinner yet so I don't know what comes with the adaptor kit?

The adapter kit comes with a new bolt a bit longer. Make sure it doesn't bottom when you mount it up. You could shorten it, or add a washer which I did to make sure it doesn't bottom.

I have always had good luck with Kirbbys Kustom Vinyl Graphics. They have a ton is stock. He has a web site with lots of pics. Jim

Hey guys

I got my last sept.after ordering it at the Wram show in Feb.I have a 160fx in it the pull/pull set up and the batt.over the engine box.I have the cg set as per inst.far back. This plane flys great I don't know why you would put such a huge motor in it and then complain the push rod ect. arn't strong enough.this plane isn't made for this much power.Your really don't need it! Mine weighs in at 13lbs
The only thing I had happen was the canopy flew off .The fuse broke in the aft cockpit area. Dave is replacing the fuse the gear,fin-rudder ect. The design of this plane is great(becides the canopy thing)I was still able to make a landing ,saving the plane.
Now I need to wait 5 weeks to get the replacement. This is the only problem I have with DPM.I'm always waiting.



Peace
xtraflyr

Bill Pryor:
Got my 3" Tru-Turn spinner and adaptor kit for the Taurus. Forgot to order with the Menz cut so will have to do considerable cutting to fit my 20X10 APC prop. The adaptor kit comes with a longer prop bolt. It is so long where the bolt is not threaded, it takes 2 extra washers plus Taurus stock spacer to even get close to tightening the prop. Was yours that way? What did you do? There was also an aluminum spacer with the kit that is the same size as the bolt but to small for the shaft (back plate is correct size for the shaft) Just curious why it was included. With the Taurus stock engine mount, the closest I could get the spinner back plate to the cowl is 3/8" of an inch which is very disappointing. To much space so doesn't look to good ,thinking about not even running a spinner due to the excess spacing. Major work to change spacing. As it is, I only have 3/8" overlap of the cowl . A picture of you manual choke set-up with be helpful if you would be so kind.
Paul

One more question Bill:
If I decide to cut up the spinner to fit my prop, do you have any suggestions of how I could re-balance it?
Paul

Hi Paul,

>>Forgot to order with the Menz cut so will have to do considerable cutting to fit my 20X10 APC prop.

>>....do you have any suggestions of how I could re-balance it?

My advice would be to send it back and get the one cut by Tru-turn...unless you're really confident you can do a perfect job. The balance is really important, and again I suggest you send it back to Tru-turn if possible.

If you do decide to cut it yourself(many people do), you can balance spinners with some prop balancers. I've done it in the past, but not recently. I believe you can do it with the Dubro balancer, but I'm not sure of others. You're right that balancing is very important to a smooth running setup.

>>it takes 2 extra washers plus Taurus stock spacer to even get close to tightening the prop. Was yours that way?

Yes, but two washers were enough in my case. I would recommend shortening the bolt. Just thread a nut over the bolt, cut off the a 1/4" or so, smooth out and slightly taper the end of the bolt, then back the nut off and the threads should be fine....unless of course you have a die and then just use that.

>>There was also an aluminum spacer with the kit that is the same size as the bolt but to small for the shaft (back plate is correct size for the shaft) Just curious why it was included.

No idea. You shouldn't need that for anything.

>>the closest I could get the spinner back plate to the cowl is 3/8" of an inch which is very disappointing.

I can't help you here since I didn't use the stock setup as you know. I would call Taurus and ask them if they have a shorter mount. They do make the mounts in different sizes.

>>A picture of you manual choke set-up with be helpful if you would be so kind.

I didn't do the manual choke on mine, though in hindsight I wish I had. Write [email protected] and ask if he has a picture of his.

BTW Paul, you're welcome to write me directly at [email protected] if you have DP/Taurus specific questions. That way we won't bore the rest of the people in this thread.

Paul, on this model it would be very easy to move the firewall back 1/2 ". This will probably be alot more cost effective than buying a modified mount. LEt me know if it works! cbk

Paul, When I was trying to put a Satio 1.80 in mine I looked at moving the cowling forward. You can move the cowling forward on the mounts, re-drill, and replace blind nuts. Doing this might get you 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch farther forward with the cowl. With mine the stripes lined up almost as well. Tom