blvdbuzzard

Not sure what .63 is down on power but my YS .63 yanks the wings off this plane. short roll out then vertical. The YS 63 is not the cheapest engine out there. The Saito 80 would be a good choice too. Now if you are talking like a Magnum 60 4s, then yeah that would not be a good engine for this plane. It would be like putting a standard 40 in it.


I too have been looking at E power for a second Giles. I have found that if I use (4) 2200mah 3s1p batteries, wired 2 in series then wire them in parallel I can get the 22.2v and enough capacity to fly for a little while while not spending $150.00 or more per pack. I have a Turnigy 5056 BL motor and an 80 amp ESC I am looking at. Just running some rough numbers. I would need to get at lest 1 more charger. I have a Triton II but am looking at a polycharge 4 so I can charge a full load of batteries at one time.

It is only money and I just do not have enough to buy all the toys I see. So I window shop and think.


Dru.

opjose

YS engines are supercharged, so these are a different beast altogether. Much more powerful than other 4 strokers.

Re: Batteries

2200mAh in 2Series 2 Parallel work too, but that's four packs per flight.

You need not spend "$150.00 or more per pack" though.

e.g.

4900mAh Rhino 20C 11.1v Packs are $64.00/EA from Hobbycity and these work great.

blvdbuzzard

Yes the YS engines are a different breed. They have oodles of power.

The reason I am thinking of the 2200 3s1p's is because I use them in my other planes and helicopters so I would only need to add to what I all ready have. I have 8 of them now so getting more would not be a problem. The motor I am looking at runs better on 22.2v then 11.1 so that is why I was going to double them then looked at the 2200 mah and said hmmmm If I doubled it again I would have good flight times too. So those are the reasons I was looking at running (4) batteries per flight.


Dru.

P.S. The 2200 are $20.00 at HC too.

opjose

Yup nothing wrong with that configuration at all, particularly since you have other planes.

I do this too on many planes.

For anyone else playing the home version, remember though with the smaller packs you are asking a bit more from them. mitigated a bit by the serial/parallel combination.

So if you opt for something like this it may behoove you to use slightly higher "C" rated packs, e.g. 25C packs for best overall use and value.

-

I've had good luck with the HC 2200's as well. Particuallly the blue Zippies... rated at 20/30C.

Given the cost increases of Glow fuel, if all the vendors could provide batteries in this price range, it would be HARD to avoid electrifying any plane of less than 1.40 CU size...

blvdbuzzard

Well it has been a long time in coming. I finally got to spend some quality time with my Giles 202.

I have had some issues with things getting in the way of my fun. Other planes, helicopters, LIFE!!!!!

I was at the field this weekend. I had an issue with the tank and replaced it. Well I was having a heck of a time with the engine. I did not fly it the last 3 times out. Well I had the vent and fuel lines crossed so fixed that and all is well.

Tuned the YS .63 to perfection. I get it on the runway. I throttle up to about 1/4. Tail comes up, I go to full throttle, nose comes up to vertical. I do a slow roll. I cut power to about 1/2 and pull back to inverted. Plane is just a point and go machine. Up to now I have had to get it up and do a quick flight. Getting dark, wind, rain, time was holding me back. Well I aimed to enjoy this plane. I am just cruising it around trying high rates and low rates. Just to see how it reacts. I do a couple of fly bye's right down the center line. I am trying to see how slow I can go. It is doing a pretty slow fly bye. I did not think it would fly this slow. Did a nice and slow landing. Came in like a trainer.

I settle on high rates with 20% EXPO. I Fuel it and get it in the air again. I am confident in how it flies. I start to do spins. It cracks when you hit the sticks. I was going vertical, input full up elevator, full left rudder, full left ailerons, as the vertical speed slowed, I would take the elevator from up to full down. It would roll onto its back and do nice snap roll and settle into a, a umm not sure what to call it. Wings would be vertical and the fuse would spin around the wings. I could slow the spin by pulling back on the throttle. It would just about fall with a spin every second or so with the wings vertical. Crazy looking in the air. I would go back to full power and full up and it would snap back into a spin.

I brought it down the center line and started to do some knife edges flight. I was expecting to use lots of rudder. Nope, just about 1/4 to 1/3 and it would hold altitude. It did tuck to the canopy a little. So I needed just a touch on down elevator. The more I get to fly the more I like the way it flies. I may end up ordering another one to keep on hand to replace this one.

I have a YS.63 in the nose, (5) $10.00 Cirrus servos, 5 cell 2400 mah battery and a 2.4G Rx. This is a great flying plane. I know I will enjoy flying the hell out of it.


Dru.

paul49

Great news, Dru.

I know what you mean about things getting in the way - so I took a rare holiday before Christmas and flew the Giles as much as I could. I enjoy the plane so much that I bought a 2008 CMPro Edge 540 50 size. The build is 99% complete - I've just got some issues with the spinner which I haven't sorted yet.

Cheers,
Paul.

million-air

got one of these not to long ago and great plane for price and quality, but I sold it before I built it and then got to fly it once from that guy. Now I want to buy one for myself since its so cheap. Can anyone tell me how they got the wing saddle to properly fit to the blind nuts (how you aligned them?)? I dont like that set up at all but im sure there is a way of doing it that im not aware of. Have you guys beefed up the gear block and or firewall? Im putting a magnum .70 4 stroker and thought the firewall might be a bit wimpy for it. Let me know.

Paul, I am to curious about this plane (edge 540t) and it has a nice covering too. Some 14 year old kid has it at our club and flies it like its his last day alive and im pretty sure hes running a .60 size two stroke. It was really fast and had an incredible turning rate, 3d, and agility like ive never seen from a scale/sport arf. Anyways, I started a thread if your interested.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post11391962

paul49

Hi million-air,

I built my Giles over a year ago and I remember that I thought about the blind wing nuts for quite some time. I seem to remember that I fitted the blind nuts and then screwed some bolts into them from underneath so that a few threads were protruding out of the top. I painted the ends of these threads with a white marking pen and then pushed the wing down so that it left an impression on the wing. Hope this makes sense as it's a while since I built it. I must have got lucky as my bolts align nicely.

I find the gear to be plenty strong so far and I've banged it down quite hard a couple of time with no ill effects. Our field is quite rough. I've only got an OS.55AX in mine and the firewall seems fine.

I've been waiting for someone to start a thread on the Edge. Thanks - I'll go and have a look.

Cheers,
Paul.

blvdbuzzard

I just made a paper template of the location and the drilled through the wing. If you line up the paper with the rear of the fuse, then line it up with the rear of the wing, it lines up really close. I was about 1/64th on an inch off. Close enough to not worry about it.

This planes does fly great. It is my favorite since my Goldberg Super Chipmonk !!! Does anything I ask and lands like a trainer, the YS gives it a good boost too.


Dru.

million-air

Thanks guys, those are great ideas. Now the only thing I have to deal with other than that is that y-elevator connect which will be a pain in the @$$ to install but I do like this setup. I noticed some guy had a checkerboard on the bottom section of his plane (on this thread). I might do that for the bottom of the wings since the blue plane seems to be a puzzle piece from the sky. Im also just for kicks going to put some fiber glass around the firewall and gear block. I still cant believe how cheap and good quality this product is...and to think I was going to get one from pheonix models....pff. Really though, its beautifull. I dont even use that word often, I dont even call my girl that!!!

Ayrton

paul49

Ayrton,

The Y-elevator setup was, at least for me, very fiddly. Others with more experience found it more straightforward and, the second time around on the Edge 540, it went more smoothly.
However...
The Giles fuselage is longer and skinnier than the Edge. I experimented with the plane upside down and the wires sitting on the fuse until I felt I had the wires bent about right and then pulled the ends together with a rubber band. Then I wiggled them into place until they were lined up with the slots and then removed the rubber band. Then I hooked them with a piece of wire with a "u-bend" and dragged them out through the slots. It was ugly to say the least.
Also, it would be good if you could contrive some way to prevent or limit any sideways movement of the CF rod. Again, the long, skinny fuse on the Giles make this difficult so I didn't bother. You can move each elevator half up and down quite a bit and the rod just moves sideways. Of course, it's nowhere near as bad if you try to move both elevator halves simultaneously and, in practice, I've never had any flutter problems. But then, I don't chuck it around very aggressively.

I find it a delightful plane - goes where you point it, the roll rate is fast on high rates but I have had it get annoyed occasionally with too much elevator. It lands nicely unless you come down final too fast and then it's a bit slippery.

And yes, matt's checkerboard covering did look very nice and useful. I was thinking about that for the bottom of the fuse but I don't know if you can buy it or do you have to make it yourself? (I'm not that patient)

Hope you enjoy it.

Cheers,
Paul.

mattmc

I bought the checkerboard covering from Hallam Hobbies. I wouldn't have the patience to make it myself.
The covering isn't heat shrink, it's just a real sticky backing that stuck like nails when applied. Used in the right place, it can look really good and differentiate between top and bottom.

paul49

Thanks Matt,

I'll chase it up. I've more or less gotten used to the Giles but I've recently been flying a Seagull Extra 300 EP which has a red and yellow checkerboard pattern underneath and solid colours on top and, especially for a little plane, it's soooo easy to see way up high.

million-air

Paul, for that Y connect, it seems if you dont over bend the Y rods outwards extending to the elevator halves, the added pressure coming inwards on the control horns (of the elevator halves) when connected should be enough to hold your carbon rod straight. Yeah it seems that needle nose plyers, string, elbow grease, and one of those foam balls you squeeze when fustrated is the only way to make this set-up work. Yeah a heard about the edge being fat, but lucky for you, you actually have a removing hatch bay (im jealous).

Matt, yeah you did do a great job and how did you apply it without any wrinkles in it? Did you use a blow dryer to wrinkle it out or just a lot of concentration?

I have a sukhoi from pheonix thats fun to fly and performs well, but I am always forced to make fast landings because word on the streets says it will snap on you fast; I dont even get to throttle down until im on final. Il try to see if maybe I can stall it a little and compensate for power but my fear is that it will tip stall...will see.

Ayrton

million-air

It has been purchased,

Everything was going well with the sukhoi, until someone with my same frequency turned it to a kit again. What are frequency boards made for right? Anyway that guy just bought me the giles so ive cooled down since.

To be honest, I was kinda dissapointed with the .70 magnum 4 stroker, but it was a good and really reliable engine, but was lacking really that need for speed. Yeah it has power but it really does not have that "rocket" like thrill you get with a 2-stroker. In my opinion, that four stroke would of gone well in a war-bird. I was thinking about getting a super tiger .61 which should be more than enough power but am not familiar with the quality. Let me know powermatch wise if this is a good plan.

The game plan,
.61 super tiger for power
4 futaba s3004 servos all around and one 9-gram for throttle
TX Futaba EXA

anyways, cant wait to get it in...

Ayrton

blvdbuzzard

There was a post a while back about spraying clear over the paint before you even start building it. I think it was Luster cote. I still need to do it. I have little chips here and there now.

You will love this plane. I have a YS 63 in mine and it yanks it off the ground like a rocket. Lands slow too. I was surprised at how slow it flies. It will do everything you want and more. I have $10.00 servos in mine. CS-601's, they are working really well so far. Plenty of power for the control.


Dru.

million-air

good news, it finally came in
bad news, its the version 1

So I open the box and I was bummed when I recognized the white canopy section indicating that it was a version 1. Im so pissed at those guys for selling me a version 1 when they said in black and white that is was a version 2. I lucked out the first time I bought it be because I got the second version and everything was great. Hell yeah this first versions covering breaks like peanut brittle. Not to mention that it has more wrinkles in it than an old mans hairline and the cowling paint matches the fuse like stripes on a zebra! I sent them an email and maybe I can get them to change their minds.

Anyways, do you guys think that spraying the plane down with some clear make it stronger?? What about the covering? I hear you can heat it too much or it will tear...blowdryer maybe? Let me know.

Ayrton

million-air

pics

opjose

Weird that looks like a Version II to me?

The Version I's had pin striping, and did not feature the overpainted blue covering AFAIK.

Did it come with carbon fiber landing gear or aluminum?

The CF gear indicates version II, aluminum version I.

million-air

I guess there were 3 versions then. The first one I got had clearly written on the box "version II". The covering was way stronger (something like monokote with 2 coats of clear and real shiny. It also had hinges that individualy looked like 2 nylon sticks with a pivot point in the middle (cool design). The ones I have on this kit are simple round cutouts made from sort of plastic material. Also the version II section where the canopy sits is blue like the rest of the plane. Other than that, it looks the same and btw the one on nitroplanes is the first version but they send the second version. At least thats what they did with my order.

Its bothering me, I hope that the clearcote will keep the covering from tearing when I fly and clean it.

paul49

Under my canopy is the same colour blue as the rest of the fuse and the box on mine said "Version II". I've also got the Robarts-style hinges as you mentioned with the integrated control horns. (Incidentally, CMP have reduced the size of these on the Edge 540.)

Hopefully you can encourage them to send you a Version II, Ayrton.

million-air

Ok build almost done and I need an engine but im stumped. I want great vertical performance. Paul, hows that OS 55ax working out for you? let me know

Here are some pics along with dubro aluminum hardware I used because of pauls misshap [&o]

paul49

Hi Ayrton,

Looking good - I don't think the control horns are likely to give any trouble.

I'm very happy with the .55AX. Mostly I just fly around at half throttle and occasionally get favourable comments about the speed. I don't think I've ever pointed the nose vertical and tried it to see if it will fly out of sight. After the Edge 540 debacle, I'm taking the Giles to the field next weekend, so I can let you know then (if you can wait that long ).

I feel that I've overpropped it a little and I don't make any particular effort to lean out the HS needle since it is more than adequate. I've also found it a very "friendly" motor. Easy to start, nice and quiet (probably quieter than some of Peter's electric models ) and I can idle it all the way down base and final and it will still go straight to full throttle without quitting. Fuel consumption seems pretty good - I fly for 8 minutes and re-fuel. Unfortunately, you need to remove the wing to see the tank so I can't assess how much is left but it doesn't take long to re-fill compared to when it's empty so I don't think 10-12 minutes would be stretching it. (I've had enough after 8 minutes anyway).

And it balances quite nicely with the .55. I put 1/2 oz of lead in the tail of the Edge to balance the (much heavier) Saito on the forward recommended CG and it still was fairly nose heavy. (It managed to stay in the air long enough for me to work that out). So that should give you an idea of the motor weight ranges for the Giles.

As a comparison, the Giles needs a medium length take off run on full throttle (possibly because of the prop) but, as I mentioned in the other thread, I wasn't actually planning to get the Edge airborne - I only throttled the Saito up to a bit less than half just to see how it tracked in the taxi and it caught me by surprise. I was still holding up elevator to keep the tail down in the taxi and it leapt into the air. I can see now why people like the mid-range torque of a 4-stroke.


You also mentioned Super Tigre in a previous post. One of the more experienced members of my club (helped me break in the Saito) owns quite a few ST's and believes they're great motors and are cheap to buy and run. I've never owned one.

weekend hack

[&:]Bought CMP Giles 202 on sale. Only $99.00. Put a magnum .61 in it 11x6 prop. Flys great. Not unlimited vertical but I think I can experiment with prop size. Only complaint is the landing gear is weak. I had a light bounce on landing and one side of the main gear broke. I thought it was metal but was some type of wood saturated with resin. If you get one you might save yourself a chewed up wing tip and replace the gear with aluminum or similar. After the gear broke it skidded on the wing tip.[img][/img]

million-air

Yeah there was a previous post about warming up some epoxy to get a runny viscosity and pouring it in the gear block. It will help a bunch and will not cost you a lot of weight. Mine came with carbon fiber landing gear which seems to be really strong but have not flown it yet.