Hanger 9 Taylorcraft
#26
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From: FW, TX,
Yes, it is a BIG engine. It would go vertical at a little over 1/3 throttle with it, spinning a MA 18x10 at 7400.
The MDS turns an APC 17x8 at 9100.
The air scoop, hmmm... Oh, I haven't mounted it yet. Need to oder a new cowl, the MDS fit's completly inside the cowl and doesn't need the large vetilation hole in the side of it.
Sorry, alerions servo's are digital 9625's. Battery pack is 6v.
The MDS turns an APC 17x8 at 9100.
The air scoop, hmmm... Oh, I haven't mounted it yet. Need to oder a new cowl, the MDS fit's completly inside the cowl and doesn't need the large vetilation hole in the side of it.
Sorry, alerions servo's are digital 9625's. Battery pack is 6v.
#27

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From: New Ulm, MN
I've got 8 flights on my Taylorcraft. G23... B&B Smoke. 80 oz servos. For the guy that's trying to shove a G38 in the nose- it's gonna be overkill- plus the extra weight will change the wing loading. You'll have all sorts of fun trying to slow her down. Mine crawls in on it's wheels for landings with the 23. . I added no weight anywhere... used the battery pack to balance. H9 did a great job on this one. covering was tight out of the box. I however didn't like the spinner- and for the polished MI one from MAxx.... 2.5 inches. That with a Master Airscrew Classic prop. The front end is gorgeous. Flat spins are awesome! This is one relaxing plane to fly!
Rick
Rick
#28
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From: Manitowoc, WI
Hey Rick:
Sounds like you are enjoying your T-Craft! What size prop are you swinging on that G-23? You said you used the battery pack to balance; where did you locate it? I have a separate pack for my smoke and I'm not sure where I should mount it. I put the receiver pack on the left next to the gas tank under the dash. I have the smoke tank on the left next to the seat. Also, I was wondering if you used the blind nuts to mount your motor, or the regular bolts, washers and nuts. I put the latter in and I think I should pull them and put the blind nuts in. I'm sure the way it's set up now I'm going to have them come loose and it's a B#%@* to get in there to tighten them up. One more question...Did you go with the recommended control throws? 1 1/8" up and 1" down on the elevator, 2"on the rudder?
Sounds like you are enjoying your T-Craft! What size prop are you swinging on that G-23? You said you used the battery pack to balance; where did you locate it? I have a separate pack for my smoke and I'm not sure where I should mount it. I put the receiver pack on the left next to the gas tank under the dash. I have the smoke tank on the left next to the seat. Also, I was wondering if you used the blind nuts to mount your motor, or the regular bolts, washers and nuts. I put the latter in and I think I should pull them and put the blind nuts in. I'm sure the way it's set up now I'm going to have them come loose and it's a B#%@* to get in there to tighten them up. One more question...Did you go with the recommended control throws? 1 1/8" up and 1" down on the elevator, 2"on the rudder?
#29
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From: Salisbury, NC
That is the same set up I have used for my servo positioning. Thanks for the info on the spinner. Where did you mount your smoke tank? I have tapped the crank case plug for pressure to my tank and was going to use a simple pinch valve to control the smoke instead of having a pump.
Aaron
Aaron
#30

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From: New Ulm, MN
Hey T Craft!
I used a 1100 mah pack right above the landing gear. I'm using a B&B smoke system so there isn't another battery pack- and the smoke tank fits under the regular tank.
I used blind nuts with 1/4 x 20 screws going through the engine and spacers to get the right clearance for the cowl. I didn't have to cut any holes in the cowl for the cyl head... just the muffler (B&B- stacks straight down) and the plug... but that's underneath and it needed cooling holes anyway. From the top and sides- you can't see the holes in the cowl.
You'll love her in the air!
Rick
I used a 1100 mah pack right above the landing gear. I'm using a B&B smoke system so there isn't another battery pack- and the smoke tank fits under the regular tank.
I used blind nuts with 1/4 x 20 screws going through the engine and spacers to get the right clearance for the cowl. I didn't have to cut any holes in the cowl for the cyl head... just the muffler (B&B- stacks straight down) and the plug... but that's underneath and it needed cooling holes anyway. From the top and sides- you can't see the holes in the cowl.
You'll love her in the air!
Rick
#32
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From: Manitowoc, WI
Rick,
Thanks for the info. I will bear down and tear it all apart again to put the blind nuts in. Geez, I hate the thought. LOL I have a slimline inverted pitts smoke muffler and I too cut the opening in the bottom, but I pretty much have one slot cut out wide enough to slide the cowling on easily. You need to crawl under it to see the cut out so I guess it's ok. You forgot to tell me what size prop you were using. You said it was a Master Airscrew Classic but no size. I have a 16/10 but was wondering if I should go to the 17/10.
Thanks for the info. I will bear down and tear it all apart again to put the blind nuts in. Geez, I hate the thought. LOL I have a slimline inverted pitts smoke muffler and I too cut the opening in the bottom, but I pretty much have one slot cut out wide enough to slide the cowling on easily. You need to crawl under it to see the cut out so I guess it's ok. You forgot to tell me what size prop you were using. You said it was a Master Airscrew Classic but no size. I have a 16/10 but was wondering if I should go to the 17/10.
#34
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From: Salisbury, NC
A two guys in my club both had to have this plane when it first came out. They used the G23's and one had a B&B smoke system. They both sold them and when I questioned what were they dissatisfied with they both said it was underpowered. The first guy to have the plane said he would use a 150 Saito and the other said the G38 or similar. I have not had any major trouble mount my 38. And as far as the extra weight goes, this thing has a monsterous high lift wing. Have yaw read the thread were the fella mounted all the camera equipment inside his Taylorcraft. I believe he used a 2.4 BME or Brison for power and weighed in closer to 20#.
#35

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From: New Ulm, MN
By the way- the high rate throw on the elevator will make mine stall out when I pull full elevator. As far as being "underpowered" with the G23- it all depends on how heavy the thing is- and how you want to fly it. I fly mine scale like at about 1/2 throttle... and will do gorgeous wingovers. Will it hover? No.... Will it do an outside loop? Yes.
Have a blast with it!
Have a blast with it!
#36
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From: Manitowoc, WI
Bucket:
Yeah I talk to Rbort once in awhile. He has quite the set-up. I weigh in at about 17lbs. with a full tank of gas. I fly full scale aerobatics and I know that you can't just pull up and go unlimited vertical in the scale plane. I guess if you want to do that in the scale plane, you would need a 300 hp lycoming engine and I believe most of the aerobatic T-Crafts are running 150 to 180 hp motors. You need to manage airspeed to make it look scale-like. For instance, to do a loop in the full scale version, you dive down at about 1/4 throttle to 145mph, pull up and go full throttle at 45 degrees until 45 degrees inverted, cut the trottle to idle through the bottom of the loop and then come back on the throttle again for the next manuver.
Yeah I talk to Rbort once in awhile. He has quite the set-up. I weigh in at about 17lbs. with a full tank of gas. I fly full scale aerobatics and I know that you can't just pull up and go unlimited vertical in the scale plane. I guess if you want to do that in the scale plane, you would need a 300 hp lycoming engine and I believe most of the aerobatic T-Crafts are running 150 to 180 hp motors. You need to manage airspeed to make it look scale-like. For instance, to do a loop in the full scale version, you dive down at about 1/4 throttle to 145mph, pull up and go full throttle at 45 degrees until 45 degrees inverted, cut the trottle to idle through the bottom of the loop and then come back on the throttle again for the next manuver.
#37
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From: Salisbury, NC
I really like my Zenoah engines and have never had a minutes trouble. But the I have never been a real 23 fan. I guess maybe since I have never owned one. I have seen people use them on the Ultra Stick, Stingers and even a poor GP Pitts. Yes it may be great for scale aerobatics in this plane, but it does not fair well in the fun fly type planes. Also I wonder sometimes about H9's suggested equipment. They say you can fly their 1/3 Sukhoi with a G62. It does alright with the GT80 but I would not use anything less.
#38
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From: Manitowoc, WI
I agree with you about their recommendations. I wonder how they calculate the engine size needed. I know they scale the plane based on wingspan. You need to calculate the engine by thrust to weight ratio I think. If my calulations are correct this plane should use a 45cc motor to be like the real one.
#42
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From: Salisbury, NC
I have a Brison 4.2 that I bought to go on a 91" Hots. It is light, powerful, and very reliable. I would consider a 2.4 but I already have the 38. Some ways the electronic ignition is great and some time it can be a hassle. It lets you move the ignition battery for more ballast and hand starts very easy, but you have to keep up with the battery. The mag ignition is so much less hassle. Just a bit heavy. I prefer to use a spring start on mag ignition.



