Well, it seems that Lady Luck has made my decision for me. Last night at the club meeting I won a CG Ultimate kit . Well, actually I won a Zagi 400X kit and traded it for the CG kit . I will start assembly in July.

I already see some changes I will make:

I do not like the way the bottom wing is held on.
I do not like the aileron servo set-up.
Elevator will be set up a pull-pull.

What engine? YS1.10, YS1.20 or OS1.20 w/ pump? I am also going to add a smoke system just cause I want one.

Andrew

Leave the lightening cut-outs that are over the lower wing saddle in place; glue them in with medium CA. The rest of the cut-outs can be removed, but leaving the ones over the lower wing in give strength to a very weak area.

Two aileron servos in the wing are no big deal to do, but it is a good idea to fabricate plywood rib doublers for both sides of the selected rib bays. Once you have your four mounting blocks glued into each corner, make a pair covers from 1/16" ply, soak them overnight in water, then screw them down in place. When they dry, you will have a pair of servo hatch covers that match the double convex shape of the swept wing's airfoil.

Mine had an OS 120 Surpass that was more than enough engine.

I just ordered the "Goldberg" (Lanier???) ARF from The Empire. Of all the models I have built and sold, the CG Ultimate that I did in 1992 is the one I wish I really had back. I'm fervently hoping that this new iteration of the ARF version is as good as the ones that were sold when Goldberg was still in operation. The guy at Lanier said the same vendor as before were doing these new ones. I'll know in about a week...

One other thing; if your kit has the egg shell cowl and wheel pants, don't even try to make them work. They won't last a dozen flights, if that. Cough up the bucks for an aftermarket glass cowl and pants. I hear that the "SpectraGlass" parts in the newer kits is perfectly acceptable.

The Goldberg Ultimate was a relatively easy-to-build kit that turns into a great model. Enjoy...

Steve

I wouldn't get too worked up about the wing servos. You can either lay them on their side with a hatch, or use a low profile aileron servo and screw them straight down into suitable mounting rails.

I did beef up the wing and fuselage strut mounting by doubling the light ply with 1/32 ply on both sides.

I'm not sure why you need to beef up the fuse over the bottom wing. Your choice.

I'm finding that the recommended C.G. range is way too far forward. I'm moving mine to the rear cabane or aft. This forced me to move my batt to the tail.

Ditto on the plastic cowling. Not worth the glue to assemble it, much less paint it. Fiberglass is required.

Use a strong servo on the rudder and elevator.

Saito 120 offers very strong performance.

YS 110 15x8 apc and a 16x8

I had the opportunity to watch three different kit-built CG Ultimates "in action" before I began building mine. All three suffered broken fuselage sides above the lower wing saddle on less than perfect landings.

So I glued those cut-outs in place, and mine never broke; even after a few hard landings. YMMV.

Be aware that this airplane has the gliding characteristics of a cinder block. Once the engine quits, it is coming down in a hurry. So get the nose down and keep your speed up. If you can't make the runway, get it low, pick your spot, and pancake it in. Just don't slow it down until you're inches from the ground.
I found all this out the hard way, due to one of those miserable Dubro fueling valves that kept sticking. Fortunately, I never did any serious damage to the model, and once I got rid of that stupid valve, I never had another flame-out.

No doubt some will chime in here that their model glided okay and
they never had a problem with the valve. Fine. My airplane weighed just over 9.5#, so it wasn't a lead sled. And I'm not the only one who has had bad luck with those fuelers. I'm hoping the new Slim-Line device is as good as they claim.

Steve

I wont get too worked up over the aileron servos. I have modified an arf to take wing mounted servos before. A kit should be easy. I just do not like the plans use of bell cranks and long push rods. I am looking at Hitec 645MGs for the control surfaces with 6.0v for power, they should handle this plane well. I had the same opinion as you guys about the wheel pants and cowel. CG sells fiberglass wheel pants (2) and cowel for $40.00 each. Any ideas on where else can check on prices? Thanks again guys, I can not wait!

Andrew

Well, now Ozz has gone and done it. I can't stand it. I got to put my other DP Ultimate together and then let a friend fly it so they will both be airborne at the same time. Wow.

My bulldog has a Saito 1.80 in it. I also have another Saito 1.80GK just back from rebuild. I also have a YS 1.20. WHAT SHOULD I DO, one of each or two 1.80's??? decisions, decisions.

you will love both i flew mine a flew flights w/the 180.....

I just got through bolting up my YS 120 SC-LOOKS GOOD IN THERE!!

The pictures of this plane, gives it no justice.

Metallic purple,metallic white, metallic yellow and red. All metallic.
Now I know why the plane will be going up in prices.
My DP tail wheel is on the way.
Oh man I can not wait until I start.

I have a Webra 1.20 in my CG ultimate that perpetually dead sticks and has resulted in more then one "hairy" landing. The last time I let it drop to the ground from about 4 ft. and broke the wing saddle you are talking about. I reinforced it when I repaired the plane. The Webra provided great power for this plane but I am sick and tired of dealing with the thing. When she goes up next time there will be a Saito 1.80 or a RCS 1.4 gasser in it. The Saito is a great engine but expensive to operate. The gasser is cheaper to buy and operate but heavier. Still thinkin' about what to do. Then too......... I do have an OS 1.20 surpass with a pump that needs a home........ might have to try it. It worked good on the last bipe it was on.

Why not a YS?
120 or a 140?

I've been flying a kit built Goldberg Ultimate for about 5 yrs now. It is absolutely stock- don't reinforce the plane, it is just fine as is.
I did put dual aileron servos in the bottom wing instead of the bellcrank.

I have put mine through the mill, never broke anything. Well, did have the elevator hinges on one side come out this past weekend doing knife edge spins- those get pretty violent.

Mine weighed 9.5 pounds when I had the Saito 1.50 in it. Very overpowered, landed "heavy", but never broke anything. Tried a Saito .91- flew a lot "lighter" great multi-turn flat spins, etc. Just a little shy on the vertical. Weighed 8.5 pounds with .91.

Tried MVVS .77- excellent power- like the Saito 1.5 but light like the .91. Too many deadsticks though.....

Now using Saito 1.00 which has to be about the best 4 stroke for it. Power like a 1.20, weight like a .91. Consumes fuel like a 1.20.

What would I change? The upper wing mounting is a bad design and hard to assemble at the field. Trash the single wire and build mounts like the DP Ultimate. Might consider a lighter landing gear.

Also, I didn't like the bottom wing attachment with allen bolts- in fact mine tended to become loose and drop out after a flight. Converted to 10-32 nylon- no more problems.

I have read about a couple of GB Ultimate's that weighed 7 pounds. Have no idea how they made it that light.

Ken

Mainly because I already have the OS. I am using a Saito 1.20 on a Kangke extra, like it a lot but I personally think the YS's are overpriced. Good engines, but I get the 1.20 Saito's and OS's for around $280 from local hobby shop.

Which hobby shop is this? I'll be in need of an OS 120 Surpass for my Ultimate. If I can get one for $50 less than The Empire sells it for, that would be good for me...

Steve

After reading through this thread, I went out in the garage and dusted mine off last night. Checked everything out and tightend her up. I've forgotten how well it flies. I'll have to get reacquainted with it this weekend!

Another 8 hr of work on it and it will be ready to fly, cant wait.

i am moving along on another ultimate to add to my collection this one will run a gas motor

and smoke

What color skeem are you going to use?

cub yellow and true red is going to be my base 2 colors.

Fuse sides cub yellow
hatch and turtle deck true red
wings mostly cub yellow

i am not sure how i am going to do the wings as i want some strips something like dave patrick extra and hanger 9 ultimate. i think i may do the bottom part of the wings in the h-9 ultmates top wing look. not sure on my top wing look yet.

the plane is not ready for covering yet as i still need to cut the ailerons out and install my flying wires on the rear half along with sanding the dowels down flush.

right now i have got 2 finish up the pluming of the gas and smoke tank.

i am glueing in a clear piece of canopy so that i can see my tanks fuel level and such in the below pic

it's actually glued in there now with canopy 560 although you can't pick it up with the eye on this pic