lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good! How does she run?
I am planning to get started on mine this week and I am watching your progress.

maneba

i've uploaded a video using nitro. Tomorrow i'll try it with gas after adding a pair of head gasket.

Pete, follow these links for information about gas conversion.
[link=http://www.justengines.co.uk/acatalog/Ignition_Systems.html]Justengines[/link]
[link=http://www.justengines.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_E.html]Gas conversion FAQ[/link]

clockguypete

Thanks for the info Stefano! I have a video of my Saito 1.80 running smoke on the test stand, but to large to upload yet, need to find a way to compress it or edit out something, not my area of expertise. The strut support looks good, I need to find a way to make it fit inside the wheel pants during assembly, since the new style wheel pants are all one pice, not split in two halfs, so I need to slide the wheel pant over the strut, and strut support, then have an access hole in the side of pant to beable to connect them reconnect the support to strut! On your gas conversion, what carburetor are you going to use? Pete

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

I need help with this landing gear. I got my ARF from one of are club members that suddenly passed away, I always loved Gee Bees. My problem is my cables for the gear are already made up. He never opened the box so they had to come like this.There are no instructions on how to do these and the loops are already in the cables there is no way to put them in the turn buckels in the wings. Should I cut one end loop off? They are already the correct length per the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

clockguypete

I have not got to that part of the build yet, but looking at my instructions it appears they want you to slip the looped ends over the landing gear and up to the u shaped yolk before attaching oleo strut to the wing. Their info is very vague, and does not show you what holds the loops in place other than the two set screws locking the socket head screw holding the u shaped yolk in place. I bought a set of Sullivan flying wires in a kit, and plan to remake wires for gear, wings, tail etc. If you read this thread through from the beginning, you will see other people's modifications for this attachment, like putting a small metal hose clamp around oleo strut, and looping the wires through the holes in the clamp befor crimping them in place. Of course that means starting over with unassebled wires, unless you can engineer another way to attach the looped ends of gear support wires to hose clamp via a small split ring like keys are put on, only miniature like 1/4 or 1/2 in. Dia. Or maybe a small 1/4 in. wide strap that loops around the strut and through the loop end of cable, then is clamped in place with a 4-40 screw and nut? Just an idea. Pete

clockguypete

I forgot to answer your question about attaching cables to the wing. One end of the cables should be looped through a threaded rod which you attach a snap clevis's, which then clips to your wing anchors. At least that's how my instruction book shows them. I believe there a couple of different revisions of this Arf, and the manufacturer has continued to upgrade things here and there. For instance I have noticed earlier arf's did not have oleo struts included, just bent wire gear, and the wheel splats were in two halfs that required gluing together once the wire gear were installed! I know this is a challenging one to put together, and as usual, we must rely on some of our own ingenuity along the way. I guess that's the part of modeling that hones our skills;-). Pete

maneba

Gas test has gone bad. I wasn't able to go over 6300 RPM with standard carburator. The temperature is much higher than using nitro.
Good low-end very stable (about 1000 RPM) but a not so good top-end and low thrust.
So i'm going back to nitro [:'(]

Today i've received the HUGE 5" Dubro inflatable tires.
They are a little bigger, in diameter, than the original and they weight a lot but the landing bouncing will be reduced.
Now i've an entire collection of tires to choose from.


I've uploaded another solution for the struts.

Tomorrow i'll begin the build.
Stefano

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

My problem is the wires have loops on both ends.There is no way to attach them to the threaded rod and clevis. I am getting ahead of my self on this build but always like planing ahead. I may have to make all new wires or try to figure something else out. Thats ok it's part of the hobbie I actually like.

maneba

You must remove the strut from the base.
Stefano

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry Stefano, Iam talking about the other end, were the clevis and threaded stud are.

maneba

It must be a mystery. Also my wires have loops on both ends. I've to cut the brass that stop the wires and make new loops (if the length is correct).
Stefano.

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

I was just down in my workshop and put things together temporaily I have come to to the conclusion I have to cut the loop off one end and that end over again

clockguypete

Just checked my arf's supplied wires, and they are just cut to length but not crimped yet, just loose in the bag, so see what I mean about different revisions of this plane?  I just received mine new about three weeks ago.  Pete

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

I love seagull models, I have 2 others the big Ultimate and the Edge 540 these instrustions have got to be the worst so far.

maneba

Mine is recent. Leg booth in one piece, struts with two screws near the fork. But wrong wires. It's not a problem for me. Every ARF needs some upgrade/mod.

clockguypete

[*]I too like the quality of seagull planes, I flew their 540 edge all last year with a 90 four stroke.  I don't think they offer the orange &white 90 to 120 size anymore.  Last fall however, I pulled a big loop on final to bleed off air speed and it stalled, wobbled over into a tree!  My fault totally ;-).  Stripped all equipment out of it unharmed, but have not found a replacement this size yet.  Hardware, construction, covering is very nice on the Gee bee and 540 I have purchased so far!  Going to try and get my Gee Bee on the assembly bench soon I hope.  Been working a lot lately, and going to the Toledo show the first week of April.  I have four other planes waiting in the wings as well.  GP stearman 120, BH Stuka 120, an old astro flight porterfield colligiate kit, and a world models, 1/3 clipped wing cub![/list]

mbgbe696

Here is how i modified my Struts to keep from turning. I got a large surface washer, had a friend of mine spot weld it to the nut ,then drilled and installed 2 1/8 screws with nuts. see photo.

mbgbe696

Looking forward to flying my Gee Bee, have flown others love them.

clockguypete

That's a good idea. Did you happen to take apart the strut to see if there are flats filed on the socket head screw where it enters the lower end of strut? Mine have two set screws, one on each side holding the screw tight. You definitely solved the U shaped bracket connection, but the screw must be really secured where it enters the strut as well. On mine it looks like there might be some gray looking JB weld under the washer and socket head screw, holding the U shaped bracket tight. I guess I will just have to take everything apart and inspect how the factory assembled it to make sure it will hold permanently, and allow me to lube the internal spring and moving parts with a good teflon or graphite grease to help them work smooth, and prevent eventual rusting. Pete

maneba

Hi guys.
This is my cradle for the baby!
And the baby with the engine on.

I'm asking myself why Seagull in the manual suggest to assemble the engine sideways an not upside down.
If i assemble the engine sideways the lateral balance is off the center on the other end if i install it upside down the lateral balance is perfect.

I'm still thinking if to going nitro or electric with an Eflite Power 110 and 9S.
Stefano

clockguypete

Hi Stephano, nice cradle! About engine position, all I can guess is by mounting the engine horizontally, you keep the carberator closer to the center line of the fuel tank. That ASP 1.80 fs engine is about a pound heavier than a saito 1.80, so your right, mounting it horizontally throws a ore weight to side of the plane. You could help compensate by installing battery, receiver, etc on opposite side of fuse to help balance.

mbgbe696

I like your cradle. Great job, mind if I copy it?

maneba

Is the same thing i was thinking. I've to put everything on the other side. Rx 2100 2s mAh life battery, 4500 1S nimh battery for the glow-plug, RX and other.

Why not? Down here you can find the original project made by a friend of mine to do this cradle that i converted.
[link=http://www.baronerosso.it/forum/attachments/aeromodellismo-progettazione-e-costruzione/263330d1361784276-portamodelli-portamodelli.dwg]dwg file[/link]
[link=http://www.baronerosso.it/forum/attachments/aeromodellismo-progettazione-e-costruzione/263331d1361784288-portamodelli-portamodelli.pdf]pdf file[/link]
[link=http://www.baronerosso.it/forum/attachments/aeromodellismo-progettazione-e-costruzione/263908d1362218219-portamodelli-portamodelli.zip]dxf file[/link]

dderst

My Feedback: (1)

I took one of my struts apart and it only has one set screw holding the the large screw that holds the fork, but it has a small pin that comes down into the forks that I guess keeps the fork from turning.Any body else have this?

maneba

Not mine. Post a photo, please.