Got several flights on the Gee Bee last weekend. What a joy to fly!

Getting ready to hive the Gee Bee a heart transplant. I am changing out for a new Zenoah G-38.

Hey Guys !
Here is my new Gee Bee Z. It got a new engine last week :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTWssnESI28

Tom

I'm considering a 55cc engine for this model. Has anyone tried that?

I am re-thinking my decision on the Zenoah G-38. I think it is just too big for this airframe. A 55cc would be a rocket if the airframe would take it.
I think I am going to a DLE 30.

In your opinion, is the firewall strong enough? I think the tail surfaces could be braced and the wing supports beefed up.

Dle30 is more than enough. It gets really small really fast

I doubt it will ever be near the speed of the Formula 1's I flew in the 80's.

I still want to hear lomcevak's view on my last question.

Well, maybe. I think you could brace it up enough that the firewall would hold. The thing that makes me reconsider is the landing gear, they are kind of weak. The plane is pretty stout otherwise.

Just started my Seagull Gee Bee Z. Making my first post to this thread. I have read about 7 of the 29 pages of the thread so far and see nothing about engine thrust lines. My ARF kit seems to have no angle to the firewall so I am going to add 1.5 degrees down and 1.5 degrees right. I made a shim to bring the engine out to the right position and give it the angles. Going with a Saito FG-40 gasser on this Z running a 19 X 10 XOAR. It is going to cowl in nicely with the head down and maybe only the rockers protruding from the cowl. Leo

I plan to start mine around the first of February. Already have a new DLE 30 and installed a Baal ring. Looking forward to adding it to the hangar right next to the 12 year old Great Planes Gee Bee R-2.

Epoxied my engine firewall wedge to the air-frame. It gives me about 1.5 deg. down and 1.5 deg. right thrust. Had to take a jigsaw and cut a rectangular hole in the firewall to clear the carb. Epoxied the stab and rudder on, it was really easy. Also used their flex hinges as they are easy. These hinges are not the greatest for giants but if you keep and eye on them you can catch breakage. Leo

There are a heavy-duty variant of C/A hinges. They are sold under the name of Radio South. I have 10 year old, 55cc powered planes that use them with no issues.

Lifer, I do have some of the blue Radio South Hinges and put them on one side of the elevator and the white kit hinges on the right. We will see how they compare over time.

Installed some servos and pushrods in the fuse. I used Nelson hardware to improve the quality of the linkages. Substituted flat washers for the reinforcements to get a lower profile and look better. A few drops of CA under the washer and keepers makes it more solid during installation. The pushrods provided ended up being too short, so I substituted longer 2-56 rods. Leo

I am concerned with your use of EZ connectors for a high-powered airplane. They were originally designed for .40 glow powered trainers. Highly suggest you use soldered on clevises. Just my opinion.

I would agree with Lifer, mine is a few years old now and has a DLE 35 on it. I would either solder or Z-bend those ends and get rid if the EZ connectors. Just my 2 cents.

Back on the Z today. I want to get this airplane done and flyable by Thanksgiving. It is an aggressive goal, but I'd like to try. Bonded the wings together with 30 min. epoxy. Servos and linkages in the wings are done. Here she is on the gear. Leo

Looking good!

if any one wants to buy a NIB PA GeeBee Y (yellow, 82"span) I have one I will sell, it will come with Robart spring struts, I also have a MVVS 35 and or a Super Tartan 44cc twin I will sell, it sure will go with ether engine,

I am sticking to 70" span planes or smaller







Jim

Are you willing to ship, and how much do you want for it?

I wouldn't mind shipping it, but I need a bigger box to ship it,,

edited. as for the price, I have a bit over $650 invested in it, that is a total of the money out of my pocket to get it here plus the struts, the landing struts are off my fist GBY that crashed and they have about 10 flights on them and some of the flat paint that Robart has panted them with has come off, and I have an extra wing that is good that goes with it if you want it shipped too, comes with 3 sets of tires, I want $480 plus shipping,, will you pay UPS to box it and ship it ??

Jim

my first PA Gee Bee Y

Can you send me a PM so we can work on the details?

I sent you a pm

Jim

Z is on the gear with wheel pants. The mounting was pretty straight forward, but I think I will pull them back off and shim with thin plywood to take up the gaps behind the fiberglass giving the wood screws the ability to clamp the pants and not deform the fiberglass. It is also critical that the angle of the wire gear be bent to center the wheels in the pants. Mine are too far forward right now by about 1/2 inch and they rub on the front of the pants when the airplane sits on the bench.

I ordered a 1/2 3D printed Pratt & Whitney Wasp Jr. from Damon at Atwood Aviation. The diameter we agreed on was 9.6". He can print whatever a person wants. The plan is to install this on the front of a baffle in the cowl and then just expose the cylinder head for the Saito. The surprising thing is when you block all the open area of a cowling like this and duct the air right past the cylinder only, your cooling of the engine actually improves! Crazy thing. I will be using a thermocouple temp probe with telemetry on the head so we will have actual readings. The goal is continuous operation below 300 deg. F if possible. Leo