RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Thanks for the pictures Bud. It looks great! Yes! I do mix about 20% rudder with mine and that really helps with the turns. You can also mix in some differential on your ailerons and it will have the same effect. I rather do it with rudder but regardless, you need to do this or else when you bank the Cub for a turn it will sort of yaw and doesn't look right, it's just a characteristic of the Cub. By the way, have you weighed yours yet? With the floats and on wheels? Mine came in at an even 17 lbs. dry and I have a 16 oz. tank!

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

I haven't weighed mine, no scale! Thinking about buying a fish scale for models. Guessing at 5# for the floats. I already have diff. mixed in my ailerons but was wondering if I should add some rudder mix. Also have a two position switch for flaps. Speaking of flaps...how does yours do with them?

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Bud, all you need is a bathroom scale to get a good ballpark figure! Just weigh yourself first then get on the scale again holding the airplane. If you have differential already mixed in then try that first, if the turns are good you shouldn't need to mix rudder. In regards to the flaps, they are very effective and allow you to come in steep for short field landings. I only use them on light to no-wind days though, otherwise you don't really need them. Now when you fly yours on floats, that's a different story, they're really going to come in handy especially since you'll be heavier, and they'll give you that extra lift you'll need at the slower speeds for water landings. You will however have to dial in a bit of down elevator when you deploy the flaps, miy setup is 8% at full flaps and that seems to work really well for me.

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Thanks Orvel, I'll keep that 8% in mind. On the bathroom scale...never had one. We just never bothered. Not that we're cheap, just never bothered to see the need.

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Group,

I have really pick up a lot of good information for my S'Cub here. You all have done an excellent job with your airplanes.

Unfortunately I will not get my kit till sometime in June, (ordered in March). I have the OS 160 twin, the radio, and on-board glow system and can't wait to get started.

I plan to put an interior in it, I have seen an ad for an interior kit for the DPM PA-18 listed in R/C Report, (not sure if I will go that route yet). I also plan to paint my trim color per a Piper stock paint job, red on white.

You all have put in a lot of time getting everything as right as you have tried. On average, what do you estimate the building time to be?

Regards,

Ray

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Some info on mine...I've been off the forum for awhile, just catching up. Flew the maiden flight on Sunday, flew like a champ..I mean a Cub!..One click of up elevator and it was hands off. I have a brand new OS 160 twin in it and it started right away and idles at 1100 RPM and revs up to 7300 on an 18-6 Zinger, right out of the box at the inital needle valve setting! I think the OS 160 twin is the finest engine in the hobby. I originally planned a Saito 182 twin, but those twin carb needle valves through the top of the cowl and awkward firing order turned me off.
The cub weighs 16.5 lb with no balance weight needed. It has a EDR 103 glo driver and battery under the fuel tank, and Rx and 6 volt Nimh flight battery, Hitec 645 servos on rear cockpit floor as per plan. I made some simple seats and lined the cockpit and aft compartment with vynyl material from WalMart. I mix 20% rudder with airilon, no differential. The throws were set up as per instructions, right on, maybe a little much on airilion at the high rate setting. Plenty of power, 1/2 flies it realistically. Super stable in landing approaches, flares and touches down like a feather. I am really liking this airplane..great to build a dream to fly. You wont be disappointed!!

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Some Pix..
Hanging on the balance wires, cockpit detail

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

whoops

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Sounds great Ric, what happened to the pix?
He,He, Never mind.

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Looking good Ric! I see you closed your interior back end in similar to what I did, very nice.

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

:eek: GUYS ,did your struts ends at the fuze line up ok? my left wing panel jury strut is almost wound clear out yet my wing is flat and the strut, rearmost , isnt even with the front strut , maybe have to call dave? thanks JIM

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Ray,
Sounds like you're all wound up and you should be :) you're gonna really enjoy this cub.
As for a building time....someone beside me should answer that. I tend to build very slow (especially on kits) I'd almost rather build than fly so I take my time. It's such a well designed plane you should have no problem, the engine mounting takes the most time but the rest just falls in place if you follow the instructions. Who had the ad for an interior?


Builder Jim,
Are you sure you don't have the front and rear lift struts reversed? My front measures 27 3/4" (just the streamlined strut without the screw ends) and the rear is 28" That 1/4" difference may be your problem if they are reversed?
Just looked at your post again and you said your struts don't line up, maybe your jury struts are reversed? the rear is 5.1" long and the front is 4.7" maybe that's why you had to unscrew the lift strut so much. Would also make your lift struts not line up. Just a thought from my feeble mind this morning but then I haven't had my second cup of coffee yet. :D

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Bud,

The interior kit was listed in the Toledo 2005 review in R/C Report (pg 70, June 05 issue) says it fits over the servo tray. It is available from Dynamic Balsa, and includes two seats, instrument panel, both side panels, the cargo shelf behind the rear seat, floor, sticks, and rudder pedals. Price listed says it is "about $100".

Ray

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Well here's the latest thing to add. Will have to rework the cross braces to fit or mount to side of supports, undecided if I should I mount it up or inverted if I mount it here.

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Bud,
I vote for the Canoe to be inverted. Would not collect exhaust residue and would be more aerodynamic.

looks like your getting near the end of the rainbow.

Pete

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

I'm kinda leaning that way Pete. Gonna rebuild my crossbraces maybe this weekend. I'll get this thing finished eventually.

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Well I have been paddling a canoe in moderate white water with wife child and friends for 30 years. I store it inverted under our deck and I carry it on top of the van inverted. Once I put the canoe on a trailer for a Hobbie Cat sail boat inverted. When a canoe fills with water its VERY heavy so any one who paddles knows to keep it inverted when not in it. Sometimes it becomes inverted while your in the canoe but we will not go there[:@]


Looks Great!!!!

Carl

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

He,He....been there...done that. Thanks Carl.

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

:DBud, thanks for the reply, been busyer than a one armed paper hanger, will measure everything this week end, Ive followed the directions to the letter, but maybe just maybe Ive managed to reverse those, yours and the others are really looking nice, luv the canue. thanks builder JIM

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

All right bud have a question or two on the operation of a plane with floats. As you might know my dad (builder jim) has 2 DP cubs and and I kinda tryed to have him make one a float plane! Yet, he doesnn't fly but only builds. So I need from you some tips on flying off water instead of land but do realize that the maiden should be off land first and then water. Any help would be appreciated thanks.


Jon

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Hi Jon,
How the heck do I know...I just build em. :D :D :D
I'm with you Jon, we have an 8 acre pond our club uses and I've always loved float planes but have never flown one. When I joined the club and saw the pond I decided I had to build one.
One of the guys on several forums does fly floats and likes to tease me about not finishing my BUSA cub, I've seen pictures of his float planes and i'll track him down and ask him to visit this forum and help you with some answers. He usually hangs around the seaplane forum. I think he may have visited this forum too. Hey Nony....HELP! I will maiden mine on wheels first and then when my flying buddy from Canada visits again (he also flys floats) I'll have him do the float maiden and give me some help. So...in otherwords....I'm a float newbie. ;) Did builder jim get his strut problem worked out?

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Geee....who would that be ???

Best place to get answers is in the seaplane forum. There are some rules for setting up a floatplane, but I have seen most of them broken to the extreme, and the planes still fly. The trick is to get a middle-of-the-road setup that will fly, then tweak it from there.

The first consideration is the location of the float step in relation to the cg. I like to have mine in the exact same place as the wheel contact point (for a taildragger)...some folks prefer it farther back than that. Too far back, or too far forward and you will run into handling difficulty on the water at speed..I'll get back to this in a moment...

The second consideration is the angle of the floats relative to the wing. (I have seen wild variations on this theme). The bottom line is that with floatplane resting on a flat surface, with the step and the heel of the float touching the surface, an incidence meter on the wing should give you 7 degrees positive incidence.

Once you have these 2 variables nailed down, you will have a plane that will take off, and fly. (if the floats are the right size).

Now the floats can be considered to have 2 separate sections- the part ahead of the step, and the aft part behind the step.

The only function of the front part of the float is to support the model through boyancy when it is at rest or at very slow speed (taxiing) on the water. Except for this phase, we want the front part of the floats out of the water at all times.
The next speed range (on water) is the moderate range. Here we want to replace the floatation boyancy of the front of the floats with hydrodynamic lift from the aft part of the floats. This is done by holding full up elevator and adding power. At this point, the floats are plowing a lot of water until speed builds up.
As the speed of the plane increases, hydrodynamic lift increases, meaning less of the rear part of the float is required to be in the water to provide the same amount of lift. We ease up on the elevator, which allows the nose of the model to drop a bit, and allows the model to accelerate even more, meaning less and less of the float surace is required to be in the water to support the model (at this point the wings are beginning to supply some lift).
At high speed, the model is going to be running in a fairly level attitude, and only a very small part of the float, just ahead of the step is actually touching - both the nose and heel of the float are clear of the surface of the water...this is what is called being "on the step". As water drag has been greatly reduced, the plane accelerates to flying speed quickly and a gentle rotation (back elevator) will allow the wings to supply the lift required to rise from the surface. (this is where the 7 degree positive incidence fits in...giving you room to raise the nose attitude withough having the back of the floats hit the water again.) The technique is very similar to flying a taildragger from land.

Now back to the step position...if the step is too far back, or too far forward, the plane will be riding on more on the front part of the float at high speed..this can lead to directional instability and waterloops. depending on the model, having the step about 1/2" or so behind the cg seems to work well.

If the model starts porposing on takeoff, abort, taxi back and try again.

Landing is easier....most planes require a bit of power due to the extra weight and drag of the floats. aim to touch down with the back part of the floats first. The drag of the water will rock the model forward, reducing the angle of attack of the wings, reducing lift. If it should bouce, it will settle back quickly. If you touch down with the front part of the floats, it is similar to landing nosewheel first on a trike, and the results will be similar.

Good luck!!

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Thanks for the help Nony,
Best description i've heard in a long time. BTW.....I think congrats are in order, geez...what are you gonna do with your time? :D

Bud

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Thanks NONY for your time in this matter. Will be looking in the seaplane category for further questions.

RE: Dave Patrick super cub
 

Hey Jon,
Just noticed you're in Clarksville. Had an army recruiter come in the bowling alley last week who has a house there and can't wait to get back. I've been there several times while my son was at Campbell. Screaming eagles 7th aviation chinooks. 5 years there. Nice area.

Bud