Which is lighter CA or Titebond?
#52

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John, after all these years?? I thought you knew me better then that.
It started out with the SK .80 two stroke but then I had to mount in the blocks for the float legs. That moved my fuel tank back into the wing bay and that brought up the problem of fuel draw. Been there before and didn't want to mess with it so I went to the smallest pumper I have on hand, the YS 1.10!!!
I know!![X(] If I had a smaller engine on hand I would use it but the .80 was as small as I had. My kingdom for a smaller YS more in line with what it should be. This could help out the CG knowing it will be tail heavy? Looks cool with the floats on it. Maybe the big float fly at the Bridge this year? I had hopes to have them both finished though. If I get them finished and set up/trimmed maybe you could fly them at the float fly for me?? I need a new AMA card.
Gene
It started out with the SK .80 two stroke but then I had to mount in the blocks for the float legs. That moved my fuel tank back into the wing bay and that brought up the problem of fuel draw. Been there before and didn't want to mess with it so I went to the smallest pumper I have on hand, the YS 1.10!!!
I know!![X(] If I had a smaller engine on hand I would use it but the .80 was as small as I had. My kingdom for a smaller YS more in line with what it should be. This could help out the CG knowing it will be tail heavy? Looks cool with the floats on it. Maybe the big float fly at the Bridge this year? I had hopes to have them both finished though. If I get them finished and set up/trimmed maybe you could fly them at the float fly for me?? I need a new AMA card.
Gene
#53
I use Elmers carpenter wood glue for some construction that doesn't need a lot of holding, or for fillets after tacking together with thin CA like ribs and webs. On my Kadet the majority of the fuse is held together with CA and Epoxy fillets. So far after many ,any rough landings, and being tossed around the sky like a Yak, everything is still rock solid tight. Weight from glue was never a consideration when I build.
#54

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Cool Gene[8D]
Working on the floats for this one as we speak only the idea is not to fly it at the float fly but fly it to the float fly, down the river.
Hmm during my stint in Germany 66, 67 used UHUHart cement and it was a cellulose type cement like the Testors, Ambroid Sig and so on. I think it was sold by Graupner.
John
Working on the floats for this one as we speak only the idea is not to fly it at the float fly but fly it to the float fly, down the river.
Hmm during my stint in Germany 66, 67 used UHUHart cement and it was a cellulose type cement like the Testors, Ambroid Sig and so on. I think it was sold by Graupner.
John
#57

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You forgot the pontoons!!! I have to make up a bleeded tank to go in the front of the swoose too. I can only go 10 ounces under the wing and 4 ounces up front. I need to buy a couple of those brands you are so nuts about so I don't spring a leak!!
You going to be the one in the back of the truck?? Why not just strap a gallon can over the CG and go??
Gene
You going to be the one in the back of the truck?? Why not just strap a gallon can over the CG and go??
Gene
#58
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From: Huntington,
IN
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Bill what would you do about this dihedral???
Bill what would you do about this dihedral???
#59

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ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
You forgot the pontoons!!!
You going to be the one in the back of the truck??
Gene
You forgot the pontoons!!!
You going to be the one in the back of the truck??
Gene
The floats are right here on the bench and their installation is what i am working on. Nope not gonna be in the back of a truck but with my butt thourghly secured in a boat. Its a sixty two mile trip as river flows.
John
#60

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ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana
So I've read the the dihedral helps the plane sorta level back out to some extent.. and eliminating it makes acrobatics less work to acomplish. Being less dihedral makes it easier to roll etc. What does this do?
ORIGINAL: Gray Beard
Bill what would you do about this dihedral???
Bill what would you do about this dihedral???
Once a question on RCU has been answered to death like this one we often tend to banter back and forth with people, sometimes a bunch of guys will join in and you would need to go back to the original post to know what was asked in the first place. This post was just turning into banter and show and tell.
#62
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From: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
The Question was....Which is lighter Ca or Titebond? I just finished a scratch built LT 40 that I up sized 9% and I used EPO GRIP Epoxy exclusively on the construction of the fuse and tail..I could not beleive how much weight it added . I had to add 5 oz to the snout to compensate....I will not do that again...I know the differance because there are 8 of these planes made and the only two that were tail heavy were the two made in my shop and were made with epoxy....I should know better I have been building for years but this is the first time I have used Epo Grip Epoxy...I love the stuff....It dosent run...It almost like grease or vaseline and very easy to place...It dosent run all over the place...However even though you dont need to use a lot it adds lots of weight...I will go back to using Titebond...I am not crazy about CA except for threads and tacking things...I am slowly starting to use it more often though ...Its hard to teach an old dog new tricks...One that I use Ca for that I have not seen mentioned is using it with Baking soda for making fillets...It works great for that..But watch your eyes and nose....You just put the baking soda where you want the fillet and drip on the CA and WHACK It goes off and is very very strong....I dont use it that often but once in a while... I have even used it on oil soaked firewall areas will success .
#63

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I use em all CA, epoxy, and Tight bond wood glues, it does seem like the CA is a bit lighter if you don't use some glue control when building.
a couple of ways I do this is I take a old CA bottle crack out any residue from the dried glue and fill it with Tite Bond with just a tiny bit of water,a few drops, to loosen up the glue, I use a new top and I have a glue bottle that I can really control the amount of adhesive I use, and where it goes
I can also make nice tight fillets when necessary, although I rarely add the excess glue, if the joints are tight its not needed only when I am in a hurry to get a section done or for jobs where CA is specifically indicated the fumes can be nasty they give me a headache if I use it too much
a couple of ways I do this is I take a old CA bottle crack out any residue from the dried glue and fill it with Tite Bond with just a tiny bit of water,a few drops, to loosen up the glue, I use a new top and I have a glue bottle that I can really control the amount of adhesive I use, and where it goes
I can also make nice tight fillets when necessary, although I rarely add the excess glue, if the joints are tight its not needed only when I am in a hurry to get a section done or for jobs where CA is specifically indicated the fumes can be nasty they give me a headache if I use it too much
#65
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From: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
The way I apply my wood glue is , I put it in a Syringe and thenI can really controle where and how much I apply...I buy my syringes from the drug store 50 at a time. They have curved plastic tips that reach in tight spots...You can refill them over and over....I use mostly tightbond111 I have been building with it for yrs and I know how to make it work for me...I use CA on a limited basis..I just dont trust it .. Somtimes I can get a good bond and somtimes not so good..I know its me ...



