It wants to fly backwards. Problem Solved!
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
EDIT: THANKS GUYS FOR ALL YOUR INPUT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THESE FORUMS ARE GREAT!
Ok, not sure where I should have posted this but since I am a beginner in need of help that the local guys can't seem to produce, I figured I would post here.
First off, my engine sucks. It's an enya ss 40. Highly recommend against it. So does everyone that has ever touched this thing trying to get it running (except one person)
Last year I think I broke the world record for prop flicks with a chicken stick and burned out at least 3 spinners trying to get this thing started. Finally got things going, but this year it was a no go. It would start almost immediately, BUT at half throttle it was acting like it was on full and would solid lock. The smell wasnt very pleasent either (burning oil smell)
So I took it to a local guy who said my glo plug was fubard, and I had a few settings a bit off (still don't udnerstand the high low , low high thing)
SO I bring it back, try to start it. Nothing. Next time , I pull it out ...and this time cut the needle valve down to about 1.25, didn't prime it and it started fine. Even was able to tune it to where it need to be for flight.
So I pack up my stuff and head out the local field. Spend 2 hours cutting the grass hoping the 20 mph wind would die down. ..........Finally does and then, as it did many times earlier this year during my original problem, I fires up quickly but IS RUNNING BACKWARDS. This happened probably 10 times, NEVER running in the right direction. My started lost juice and that was a day.
I am starting to get VERY frustrated as I have been trying to fly since JUNE! I know I am several steps closer and if the damn weather would just comply I will probably have her up (and prolly will crash but oh well). BUT I am wondering what can I do to alleviate this problem with the backwards flying thing? I figure sooner or later I would have gotten it running the right way, but I would probably need two starters.
Just fyi: the prop is on correctly and the local hobby store said the engine looks fine, great, dandy. The vibration is pretty bad on this thing until I trim it out. I am wondering if running it rich or lean does this or if it is just the side effect of a 1 hour old engine that has finiky characteristics notoriously?
Thanks!
S
Ok, not sure where I should have posted this but since I am a beginner in need of help that the local guys can't seem to produce, I figured I would post here.
First off, my engine sucks. It's an enya ss 40. Highly recommend against it. So does everyone that has ever touched this thing trying to get it running (except one person)
Last year I think I broke the world record for prop flicks with a chicken stick and burned out at least 3 spinners trying to get this thing started. Finally got things going, but this year it was a no go. It would start almost immediately, BUT at half throttle it was acting like it was on full and would solid lock. The smell wasnt very pleasent either (burning oil smell)
So I took it to a local guy who said my glo plug was fubard, and I had a few settings a bit off (still don't udnerstand the high low , low high thing)
SO I bring it back, try to start it. Nothing. Next time , I pull it out ...and this time cut the needle valve down to about 1.25, didn't prime it and it started fine. Even was able to tune it to where it need to be for flight.
So I pack up my stuff and head out the local field. Spend 2 hours cutting the grass hoping the 20 mph wind would die down. ..........Finally does and then, as it did many times earlier this year during my original problem, I fires up quickly but IS RUNNING BACKWARDS. This happened probably 10 times, NEVER running in the right direction. My started lost juice and that was a day.
I am starting to get VERY frustrated as I have been trying to fly since JUNE! I know I am several steps closer and if the damn weather would just comply I will probably have her up (and prolly will crash but oh well). BUT I am wondering what can I do to alleviate this problem with the backwards flying thing? I figure sooner or later I would have gotten it running the right way, but I would probably need two starters.

Just fyi: the prop is on correctly and the local hobby store said the engine looks fine, great, dandy. The vibration is pretty bad on this thing until I trim it out. I am wondering if running it rich or lean does this or if it is just the side effect of a 1 hour old engine that has finiky characteristics notoriously?
Thanks!
S
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: The Woodlands,
TX
The motor starting backwards means it is loaded up with fuel.
This happens when the motor kicks back and starts backwards.
I start my motors backwards. Pull one extra draw of fuel and the motor
is loaded up and back flip off the spinner.
If it keeps starting backwards, flip it backwards and it will start forward. Yes, it
that easy.
This happens when the motor kicks back and starts backwards.
I start my motors backwards. Pull one extra draw of fuel and the motor
is loaded up and back flip off the spinner.
If it keeps starting backwards, flip it backwards and it will start forward. Yes, it
that easy.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
God that breaks all conventional wisdom! But if it works, then I will definetely be happy regardless of how I have to make it happen.
Thanks alot.
S
Thanks alot.
S
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Crete,
IL
Don't mean to sound stupid here, but if you are using a starter is it turning the engine counterclockwise? A two stroke engine is usually pretty darn hard to get it to run backwards when using a starter, flipping it is another story.
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
[:@]
DOH
sorry, glow plug starter I mean. I don't use a starter. Never worked better for me than hand flippage.
5 guys out at the field with over 100 years experience in RC all couldn't figure it out. But maybe they were just enjoying my newbism eh?
DOH
sorry, glow plug starter I mean. I don't use a starter. Never worked better for me than hand flippage.
5 guys out at the field with over 100 years experience in RC all couldn't figure it out. But maybe they were just enjoying my newbism eh?
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Grand Junction,
CO
starting to get VERY frustrated as I have been trying to fly since JUNE
By the way... make sure you switch arms to start that thing or you're gonna have lopsided muscles!
Ps. Do a search on High/Low needle settings... cause i think it would behoove you to understand their relationship. I bet you'll have it fine tuned in no time!
#8
Sincraft,
If worse comes to worse, dump the Enya engine on E-bay and buy yourself an OS! I'm a newbie and had all sorts of problems with an MDS .40, low speed needle had a mind of its own and I got very proficient with the deadstick landings. (I was better with dead-sticks then with powered landings!) Finally installed an OS LA40 and that damn things purrs like a kitten. I just wish my flying skills were purring as nicely as my engine!
If worse comes to worse, dump the Enya engine on E-bay and buy yourself an OS! I'm a newbie and had all sorts of problems with an MDS .40, low speed needle had a mind of its own and I got very proficient with the deadstick landings. (I was better with dead-sticks then with powered landings!) Finally installed an OS LA40 and that damn things purrs like a kitten. I just wish my flying skills were purring as nicely as my engine!
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
By the way... make sure you switch arms to start that thing or you're gonna have lopsided muscles!
Nice advice on the OS engine, I am going to take it...RIGHT NOW and go buy one. I've had enough...WHY YOU SAY MUAHAH (twitch) MUAHAHHA (twitch, wince, twitch)
OK so today I start out and had to work till 3pm. Overcast with a light drizzle. But the wind was calm and I wanted to FLY! Took YNOT's advice once I got there, after it flew backwards...still did the same thing flipping it backwards. (ugh) But afterwards one more flick in the right direction got her going. So, I decide I am just going to do some high speed taxis to ensure this engine is going to respond correctly. My brother was supposed to show up, but coulnd't. So I had to do this alone if I wanted to fly. I've only solo'd once. And it was with him next to me and that was OVER a year ago! SO, I take down the runway, power down about halfway through are very small runway,...it runs into the grass..I have to power it hard to get it turned around and I bring her back up past me to line up for takeoff. It stalls. My cue to eat something, and hopefully someone will showup to take the controls if I start freaking out after takeoff
About 30 minutes later, noone. Of course. Murphey's law. So I say, ok Ill bring her off the ground and touch it down at the end of the runway and let it glide through the grass. I reeve it up, it goes flying past me...I pull back..and said AHHHH the heck with it!~ And poured on my gas and pull back. It was a gentle but nice climb straight up and out. JUST as I am about to make my first leg of my turn I throttle up some more as I see it is not climbing as fast and I wanted altitude....THE ENGINE DIES!!!!!!!!! OK I have VERY little room to make a decision. Straight is down a hill or into trees, and a road which I can't see (usually no cars on it though) To the left (which I am partially turned) is a VERY rough field with small shrubs/tress. To the right is a field with tall grass but I doubt I would make it over there. SO I try to continue with my left turn and pull back as much as I can....it starts to dive like a lawn dart with no power and I realize there is NO way I had enough altitude to get this thing full circle no to make it to the right field. So I decide the best to do is aim straight leftish. As comes down, I tried to straighten the wings as much as possibel and keep full back on the stick. As it disappeared over the hill I hear THUD. Then I see my wing fly up into the air about 20 feet and come back down. I said 'OMG' and dropped my transmitter. I slowly walk over there, and saw my wing about 20 feet from my fuse. Both rear wheels are missing, including the metal thingies (struts). The front wheel is bent back but the plastic that holds it in is ok..somehow. No major damage seen yet, then OH NO my FIN looks like someone kicked it from the back and it's barely hanging onto the fuse. DOH. And I notice a one inch hole in my wing from the weeds, And I can't find my wheels. I'm all fixed up now. Put a new prop on, and some tape on my beautifully and meticuliously covered wing.
I really want to fly tomorrow but I am not sure I will have the guts to after that. I made it high enough that if that happens again, I probably wont be so lucky as to land quasi on the gears and if I hit sideways or something I am surely looking at countless hours of repair and $$$$.Anyway, thought some of you may enjoy this story. I still want grab the old guy that I bs with at the local hobby store that swears my engine is great, and SHAKE him. But he means well and maybe my experience with Enya is not typical...although I have talked to a few that say it is.
Anyway, stayed tuned for an update I'm sure.

And now, I bid you farewell whilst I go purchase another reliable engine. And if worse comes to worse I will be getting another plane anyway, I can put the enya back into my trainer eagle II and let someone else fiddle faddle with it when they want to.

S
#10

If you are getting a new engine the OS la series is very reliable BUT low on power, The FX is a great one but pricey. Take a look at the Magnum engines, They have great power and run great and if you ever have a problem the customer service is the best The 46 would be better but the 40 is on sale right now http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/210756.asp http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/210750.asp
Dauntae
Dauntae
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Laurel, MD,
It's likely that your high speed needle was set too lean, which is likely why you lost power when you went to full throttle. Did you ever go to full throttle on the ground while holding the plane securely and making sure it ran right there?
The advice above about the engine starting backwards is right on.
Fwiw, Enya engines are, in general, very high quality. The starting backwards thing is a trait of new engines with high compression, a good thing.
If I had to bet, I think it's likely you will have a simular experience with an OS engine as you have had with the Enya. I think your problems come entirely from not setting the engine correctly. If you want to spend money on another engine, take a look at the Evolution engine. It has limiters on the mixture settings and good documentation that can reduce your problems until you learn more about proper engine care and feeding.
I know it's hard, but you should also be patient and try not to charge ahead on your own. It's most likely to result in broken gear than anything.
The advice above about the engine starting backwards is right on.
Fwiw, Enya engines are, in general, very high quality. The starting backwards thing is a trait of new engines with high compression, a good thing.
If I had to bet, I think it's likely you will have a simular experience with an OS engine as you have had with the Enya. I think your problems come entirely from not setting the engine correctly. If you want to spend money on another engine, take a look at the Evolution engine. It has limiters on the mixture settings and good documentation that can reduce your problems until you learn more about proper engine care and feeding.
I know it's hard, but you should also be patient and try not to charge ahead on your own. It's most likely to result in broken gear than anything.
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
Mont, I love the avatar!
Yes I tested it on the ground. Throttle response was great. However I have to watch not to go to far down (last click) or she will die if I am up anywhere above a few notches for any period of time.
Thanks for the advice and words o' wisdom. My feelings are that I just might have the same issues with an OS engine, but it won't be as finiky. I play around with my brothers OS engine on his plane,..and it start immediately (after sitting around all winter) and the remote needle valve makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
BUT If I can't get this thing running predictable, then it is useless to me. I probably could sell it right now to the local hobby store for $20 cutting my new engine costs down. But I would love to get her running, broken in, then make an opinion based on REAL data...not my newbism experiences ya know? I heard good things about Enya, and would like to give them the full benefit of doubt before tosses it aside.
Off I go soon to play around, I may take off...dunno. I'll update ya all. I will only takeoff if it reacts as I wish.
S
Yes I tested it on the ground. Throttle response was great. However I have to watch not to go to far down (last click) or she will die if I am up anywhere above a few notches for any period of time.
Thanks for the advice and words o' wisdom. My feelings are that I just might have the same issues with an OS engine, but it won't be as finiky. I play around with my brothers OS engine on his plane,..and it start immediately (after sitting around all winter) and the remote needle valve makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

BUT If I can't get this thing running predictable, then it is useless to me. I probably could sell it right now to the local hobby store for $20 cutting my new engine costs down. But I would love to get her running, broken in, then make an opinion based on REAL data...not my newbism experiences ya know? I heard good things about Enya, and would like to give them the full benefit of doubt before tosses it aside.
Off I go soon to play around, I may take off...dunno. I'll update ya all. I will only takeoff if it reacts as I wish.
S
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Crete,
IL
Sincraft
First off, sorry to hear about the crash. I know it's easy to rush into things but one thing that is very important with any plane is get the engine running reliably before you even THINK about taking off. You need to make sure it is somewhat broken in and has good transition from full power to idle and from extended idle to immediate full throttle. You should be able to let it idle for at least 30 seconds and quickly move the stick to full throttle. The transition should be smooth. If it sputters, it's likely that the low speed needle is too rich. If it simply dies, it's usually that the low speed needle is too lean. From your description of not being able to chop the throttle all the way down after running a few clicks up or it will die, it sounds as though the low speed needle is too rich which is causing the engine to load up with unburned fuel. The high speed needle on a 2 stroke can usually be set by ear, just run at full throttle, (be sure you have the plane secured!) and start out with a somewhat rich setting. Lean the high speed needle a click or two at a time and wait for a change in rpm. Keep doing this until you hear the rpm's start to decrease meaning that the mixture is now getting too lean. Richen back up slowly until once again you reach the highest rpm's and then RICHEN it a couple more clicks. Now go back to idle and re-check the low speed setting. Have someone hold the airplane and point it straight up while at full throttle and make sure the engine rpm doesn't drop, if it does, richen the high speed needle a little more and try again. Once you have all of this dialed in correctly you will find that the engine will be reliable at any throttle setting and will start very easily. With a reliable engine you can now fly the airplane without having to worry about a deadstick situation, (unless you run it out of fuel of course). The other thing you need to be aware of is that if you are in another deadstick situation, DO NOT use up elevator until it's time to flare right before touch down. If you have enough altitude to make a turn toward the field make sure it is a very slight bank and use VERY little elevator. Keep your inputs as small as possible. The key is to keep all the airspeed you can, pulling excessive up elevator will lose too much airspeed VERY quickly and the only way to get it back is to dive IF you have enough altitude left. You have to remember that the elevator, just like the rest of the controls, only work when there is sufficient air moving over them. Good luck and try to get some help at the field.
First off, sorry to hear about the crash. I know it's easy to rush into things but one thing that is very important with any plane is get the engine running reliably before you even THINK about taking off. You need to make sure it is somewhat broken in and has good transition from full power to idle and from extended idle to immediate full throttle. You should be able to let it idle for at least 30 seconds and quickly move the stick to full throttle. The transition should be smooth. If it sputters, it's likely that the low speed needle is too rich. If it simply dies, it's usually that the low speed needle is too lean. From your description of not being able to chop the throttle all the way down after running a few clicks up or it will die, it sounds as though the low speed needle is too rich which is causing the engine to load up with unburned fuel. The high speed needle on a 2 stroke can usually be set by ear, just run at full throttle, (be sure you have the plane secured!) and start out with a somewhat rich setting. Lean the high speed needle a click or two at a time and wait for a change in rpm. Keep doing this until you hear the rpm's start to decrease meaning that the mixture is now getting too lean. Richen back up slowly until once again you reach the highest rpm's and then RICHEN it a couple more clicks. Now go back to idle and re-check the low speed setting. Have someone hold the airplane and point it straight up while at full throttle and make sure the engine rpm doesn't drop, if it does, richen the high speed needle a little more and try again. Once you have all of this dialed in correctly you will find that the engine will be reliable at any throttle setting and will start very easily. With a reliable engine you can now fly the airplane without having to worry about a deadstick situation, (unless you run it out of fuel of course). The other thing you need to be aware of is that if you are in another deadstick situation, DO NOT use up elevator until it's time to flare right before touch down. If you have enough altitude to make a turn toward the field make sure it is a very slight bank and use VERY little elevator. Keep your inputs as small as possible. The key is to keep all the airspeed you can, pulling excessive up elevator will lose too much airspeed VERY quickly and the only way to get it back is to dive IF you have enough altitude left. You have to remember that the elevator, just like the rest of the controls, only work when there is sufficient air moving over them. Good luck and try to get some help at the field.
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
just like the rest of the controls, only work when there is sufficient air moving over them. Good luck and try to get some help at the field.
All in all though Stick, 1 hour of repairs isn't bad.I flew today
Well, sorta. Another guy at the field watched me tune her up (exactly how you described) he held the plane in the air and said she's ready to go. But the wind was too much for me. He convinced me to let him take it up and I would fly. Pretty much the same routine as last year that I went through. I tuned the engine the same way, and also had my bro takeoff and land for me whilst I figured things out. I don't remember it flying as fast as it did today!
I wanted to keep it slow and medium alt with tighter circles, but I was high up and almost let her go a bit too far for sight. Even the trainer today said he couldn't tell which way it was going for a bit. The wind was horrible. But at least I know the plane will fly 50+mph (going with the wind) 
Twas fun, but I wasn't going to risk landing. 20 mph cross wind, wind sock flopping around well beyond solid....wasn't touching that with a ten foot pole. So the trainer took it down for me. He did a beautiful compensating for the crosswind. I expected him to come in and allow the wind to blow him onto the run way, but with only 3 channel plane..he managed to keep it pointed toward the runway...TOUCHDOWN. I was pleased.

Anyway. That is my latest and greatest.
The ONLY GENTLE CONTROL THROWS advice is great and I must keep telling myself that. I also get a bit paranoid making turns as it wants to dive so I compensate by pulling back on the stick. Plane is a bit squirly, and faster than I remember last year hehe. fun fun fun
Welp, at least I got to fly this weekend. Going to try to make it out one day this week and maybe my day off will also yield nice weather. Wish me luck..
Thanks for all the advice guys!!!!!!!!
S
#15
Maybe it's too late to mention it now but I believe the Enya SS40 has a cast iron piston. If it's been run in like an ABC then it may be run out by now. The quality of Enya engines is superb and a cast iron piston run in properly will last so long it'll be a family heirloom IF you use the right fuel (meaning oil type and quantity).
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Laurel, MD,
Glad to hear your engine is settling down. Enya's can be a bit harder to tune than an OS LA, but they will last longer. That iron pison is a big reason why. Iron pistons break in slower, but last longer than ABC engines.
The idle speed thing sounds normal. There is a limit to how low you can idle an engine, and a new engine won't idle well until it's broken in. The low end mixture also has a tendancy to change as the engine breaks in, so spending too much time on the low end mixture early on is a waste of time, it will need adjusting later anyway.
Anyway, if the engine is settling in, that's great. Probibly just a matter of getting it broken in enough. If it's still giving you trouble, you might try some different fuel or glow plug. Some engines are more picky than others about such things. With an iron piston, fuel with a little caster oil in it might be a good idea. Iron pistons don't react well to lean runs, so the extra protection of the caster isn't a bad idea.
The idle speed thing sounds normal. There is a limit to how low you can idle an engine, and a new engine won't idle well until it's broken in. The low end mixture also has a tendancy to change as the engine breaks in, so spending too much time on the low end mixture early on is a waste of time, it will need adjusting later anyway.
Anyway, if the engine is settling in, that's great. Probibly just a matter of getting it broken in enough. If it's still giving you trouble, you might try some different fuel or glow plug. Some engines are more picky than others about such things. With an iron piston, fuel with a little caster oil in it might be a good idea. Iron pistons don't react well to lean runs, so the extra protection of the caster isn't a bad idea.
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
Now that I recall, I think I ripped the glow plug out of my engine and gave it to my bro when we went flying (or tried to) earlier this year, and then replaced it with what I had in my field box later that evening. Quite possibly the reason for my problems. The guy at the shop said I had the wrong glow plug in it, and it did start working afterwards. As for the stalling thing, I went flying on sunday. Club trainer picked up my model and said it's ok and ready to go. I later check the needle valve settings and if anything it was set a tad bit more rich than I had it.
Regarding my fuel: It is byron's fuel. 10% nitro, 20% total oil (is that ok?)
Flew like a champ on Sunday. Saturday was depressing. You seriously can't complain though if you can repair with 0$ and 1.5 hours time right?
Downunder: Nice avatar eheh. How will I tell if I fubard my engine, and what is the proper way to break it in? I tried to run my engine at home after I flew it, to break it in more. But after running it on high throttle for about 20 secs, when I went down to half it started sputtering and died. I noticed a good deal of fuel in the tank, but it may just be at that level where there is a tad of air hitting the clunk. hmmm. Also, I was told just to take her up in the air and break it in up there by a hobby store. Good/bad?
Regarding my fuel: It is byron's fuel. 10% nitro, 20% total oil (is that ok?)
Flew like a champ on Sunday. Saturday was depressing. You seriously can't complain though if you can repair with 0$ and 1.5 hours time right?

Downunder: Nice avatar eheh. How will I tell if I fubard my engine, and what is the proper way to break it in? I tried to run my engine at home after I flew it, to break it in more. But after running it on high throttle for about 20 secs, when I went down to half it started sputtering and died. I noticed a good deal of fuel in the tank, but it may just be at that level where there is a tad of air hitting the clunk. hmmm. Also, I was told just to take her up in the air and break it in up there by a hobby store. Good/bad?
#18
Cast iron pistons need a careful run in...the hobby store gave you BAD advice. Rather than go through the details here it's better if you go to http://www3.telus.net/dieselcombat/breakin.htm which explains not only how to run them in but gives the WHY of it all. This sort of info isn't generally known in RC and I'm sure many Enya's will never get the life that they should have. I should add that I've got no idea what the Enya instructions say.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Byron mix by weight and not volume which makes the actual oil content around 17%....way too low. Powermaster and Sig both have a fuel suitable for an iron piston engine.
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Byron mix by weight and not volume which makes the actual oil content around 17%....way too low. Powermaster and Sig both have a fuel suitable for an iron piston engine.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Plainville,
CT
Here's the straight p00p on Enya SS .40's. First, I have to say I love 'em... When I started, they were the cheap engines, which was all I could afford. I ended up with 2 very high-time engines that were well-trained.
I only used a chicken stick. Do NOT use your hand, though I did use a heavy hardware-store leather glove with happiness. I can show you the scars on the outside of my middle finger from those danged APC props. Too much fuel - engine locks...hand keeps going. Next you're gonna have blood all over your plane and radio
The Enya's take a LONG time to settle in - like a flying season, if you're a casual flyer like me. I like 'em when they run RIGHT - and the transition from idle or mid-range to full-throttle is difficult to set initially on the Enya's. They're not, however, particularly sensitive to glowplug brands or heats.
Settings: Needle valve out 1.5 or so turns - 2 turns is OK, too, when you're initially trying to figure the engine out...it'll start.
Idle stop: While looking down into the carb throat, with the radio on and the throttle pulled back all the way and the throttle trim DOWN all the way, screw the idle stop until the carb barrel JUST closes. It should be completely closed, but that's all. Use your throttle trim, now, to 'crack' the carb open - if it doesn't, you'll have no idle on the trim. 1/2 throttle trim should be OK to keep it running once you've got it tweaked. (This allowed me, when flying on floats with no retrieval boat, to use full throttle trim to bump the idle up and give me some insurance against a flame-out).
Idle mix: This is an airbleed - to start with, at least half of the airbleed should be covered by the screw - maybe a little more, leaving only a small hole for the air to bleed through at idle. This is the screw you'll mess with when you're trying to get it to run right all the time and transition properly...
To start - you've already learned the hard way that it doesn't want all that much fuel. My drill was to, with no plug lighter, choke the carb (you can plug the exhaust, too, but I did the carb), turn the prop through in running direction until fuel was sucked up TO the carb - not INTO it. The fuel would just touch the carb...OK, maybe a wee bit more, like a 1/4 turn on the prop, but NO more than that. My engines were 'trained' to start at about 1/3 throttle - I don't know if it was just me or what, but that always worked.
Radio on, open the throttle half-way or so, put the lighter on, and flip. It should start in a couple flips. If not, check your fuel line and make sure it's still full of fuel. If it's not, you, by rights, should figure out why not, which means going back to the pits. If you're me, however, and the line has emptied or drained back a little, you'll simply choke, turn the engine a bit (maybe a little more to get more of a prime in it) and keep flipping. Too much fuel will either lock the engine (looking ruefully at my cut fingers) or cause it to (SURPRISE!) run backwards..... If you're patient, by the way, you can use the throttle stick sometimes to reverse the engine - worst case, you'll have to flip it again. If it's running backwards, kill it with the radio (closing the idle or whastever works - don't stick it in the dirt) and DON'T prime - just FLIP (with the plug lighter on, of course).
By the way, nothing beats backyard practice with an engine. I'm a firm believer in test stands or at minimum, running the engine on the plane.
Once it runs, tweak the high-speed needle until it's happy - a pinch of the fuel line should result in a very minor and momentary increase in RPM before it dies (if you held the line pinched). THEN set it up to idle happily...don't worry about the transition from idle to full or anything...just get it to idle. Check your settings...ust play with it. The transition is usually a function of the idle bleed, and it's usually too rich - what happens is the engine loads up a little, then when you give it full-throttle, it just dies.....
Patience is a virtue.......'specially when you're poverty-stricken
I only used a chicken stick. Do NOT use your hand, though I did use a heavy hardware-store leather glove with happiness. I can show you the scars on the outside of my middle finger from those danged APC props. Too much fuel - engine locks...hand keeps going. Next you're gonna have blood all over your plane and radio

The Enya's take a LONG time to settle in - like a flying season, if you're a casual flyer like me. I like 'em when they run RIGHT - and the transition from idle or mid-range to full-throttle is difficult to set initially on the Enya's. They're not, however, particularly sensitive to glowplug brands or heats.
Settings: Needle valve out 1.5 or so turns - 2 turns is OK, too, when you're initially trying to figure the engine out...it'll start.
Idle stop: While looking down into the carb throat, with the radio on and the throttle pulled back all the way and the throttle trim DOWN all the way, screw the idle stop until the carb barrel JUST closes. It should be completely closed, but that's all. Use your throttle trim, now, to 'crack' the carb open - if it doesn't, you'll have no idle on the trim. 1/2 throttle trim should be OK to keep it running once you've got it tweaked. (This allowed me, when flying on floats with no retrieval boat, to use full throttle trim to bump the idle up and give me some insurance against a flame-out).
Idle mix: This is an airbleed - to start with, at least half of the airbleed should be covered by the screw - maybe a little more, leaving only a small hole for the air to bleed through at idle. This is the screw you'll mess with when you're trying to get it to run right all the time and transition properly...
To start - you've already learned the hard way that it doesn't want all that much fuel. My drill was to, with no plug lighter, choke the carb (you can plug the exhaust, too, but I did the carb), turn the prop through in running direction until fuel was sucked up TO the carb - not INTO it. The fuel would just touch the carb...OK, maybe a wee bit more, like a 1/4 turn on the prop, but NO more than that. My engines were 'trained' to start at about 1/3 throttle - I don't know if it was just me or what, but that always worked.
Radio on, open the throttle half-way or so, put the lighter on, and flip. It should start in a couple flips. If not, check your fuel line and make sure it's still full of fuel. If it's not, you, by rights, should figure out why not, which means going back to the pits. If you're me, however, and the line has emptied or drained back a little, you'll simply choke, turn the engine a bit (maybe a little more to get more of a prime in it) and keep flipping. Too much fuel will either lock the engine (looking ruefully at my cut fingers) or cause it to (SURPRISE!) run backwards..... If you're patient, by the way, you can use the throttle stick sometimes to reverse the engine - worst case, you'll have to flip it again. If it's running backwards, kill it with the radio (closing the idle or whastever works - don't stick it in the dirt) and DON'T prime - just FLIP (with the plug lighter on, of course).
By the way, nothing beats backyard practice with an engine. I'm a firm believer in test stands or at minimum, running the engine on the plane.
Once it runs, tweak the high-speed needle until it's happy - a pinch of the fuel line should result in a very minor and momentary increase in RPM before it dies (if you held the line pinched). THEN set it up to idle happily...don't worry about the transition from idle to full or anything...just get it to idle. Check your settings...ust play with it. The transition is usually a function of the idle bleed, and it's usually too rich - what happens is the engine loads up a little, then when you give it full-throttle, it just dies.....
Patience is a virtue.......'specially when you're poverty-stricken
#20
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
lol oh god someone , just let me send you my engine and you tell me what you think! LOL. Ok, I'm joking (sorta) but I see the guys at the airfield do the SAME thing for EVERY engine. After being on here, I am starting to realize that there are SO many variances in SO many engines out there. One person tells me this engine is great, great customer service...then another says....NO RUN>>>RUNNNNNNNN. 
Regardless, I obviously didn't break in my cast iron engine properly. Worse, I am worried that by running it at high idles ...possibly lean this year for more than a couple minutes could have done some serious damage. I believe it will run, and when it did this sunday seemed to have AT LEAST twice the power as the OS .40 la engine the guy next to me was flying.
I had a eagle 2 trainer, he had a tower hobbies trainer. Both are just about dead on in weight. But mine at half throttle was screaming through the air while he was almost at stall speed when fly to the side of the wind.
Does that mean I'm in good shape? yes and no. It will fly and nicely, but for how long? How many issues will I have and worse...WHEN will they happen. At over two telephone poles high (ok I'm no genius) I won't stress too much if it cuts out on me. But if it happens on takeoff just as I am about to make my first turn. YIKES. To many trees, rocks, roads, cars, people, small furry aminals, and general pestilence abound ready to adsorb my poor little airplanes dollar value
Ce le vie. Thanks for the info on the cast iron and the 1st hand account of the Enya engine guys. I appreciate it. I'm learning everyday.
Now, hopefully with some time I will figure out whats up. I am curious about this fuel mixture thing though. I have to check into this. I actually had a guy at the airfield say I was running way too rich and too much oil in my gas because my plane was SOAKED after a 5 minute flight.
S

Regardless, I obviously didn't break in my cast iron engine properly. Worse, I am worried that by running it at high idles ...possibly lean this year for more than a couple minutes could have done some serious damage. I believe it will run, and when it did this sunday seemed to have AT LEAST twice the power as the OS .40 la engine the guy next to me was flying.
I had a eagle 2 trainer, he had a tower hobbies trainer. Both are just about dead on in weight. But mine at half throttle was screaming through the air while he was almost at stall speed when fly to the side of the wind.
Does that mean I'm in good shape? yes and no. It will fly and nicely, but for how long? How many issues will I have and worse...WHEN will they happen. At over two telephone poles high (ok I'm no genius) I won't stress too much if it cuts out on me. But if it happens on takeoff just as I am about to make my first turn. YIKES. To many trees, rocks, roads, cars, people, small furry aminals, and general pestilence abound ready to adsorb my poor little airplanes dollar value

Ce le vie. Thanks for the info on the cast iron and the 1st hand account of the Enya engine guys. I appreciate it. I'm learning everyday.

Now, hopefully with some time I will figure out whats up. I am curious about this fuel mixture thing though. I have to check into this. I actually had a guy at the airfield say I was running way too rich and too much oil in my gas because my plane was SOAKED after a 5 minute flight.
S
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Plainville,
CT
*grin* I, with 2 of those Enya's, didn't have a bad one, but I DID have setup problems.
If it's slobbering rich, it's probably one of two things: Yeah, it could be rich, and it's rich enough to be spewing fuel, that could easily be your dying problem. The engine would be loading up, have lots of raw fuel hanging around and quenching the plug. So - to tweak (and this goes for any engine. I forgot, during setup, to mention that you should have the carb barrel open all the way, but no further. It should close completely with closed throttle and trim and go to full open with open throttle and about 1/2 trim. Anyway - running at full throttle, keep closing the needle valve. The engine will speed up, then at some point, will 'sag' and lose RPM. Don't let it stay there! Open it about 1/4 turn or so, bringing it back to full RPM...maybe more, maybe less, depending on the results of the pinch-and-die test on the line. When you pinch, it should respond quickly - like right NOW - if it doesn't, there's something else wrong.
That's the correct needle setting - nothing Star Wars about it. The Enya's are simple and robust.
The other possibility, and I had it on an OLD K&B .40, is a sloppy front crank bushing. Mine was so bad that the plane would be coated in raw fuel and you'd be wet to the elbow after a day of flying. Holding the plane by putting your feet in front of the elevator resulted in sloppy-wet shoes. I actually gave the engine away cuz I was too lazy to repair it, and it was a STRONG, Perry-pumped-and-carbed engine.
The Enya doesn't have a removable backplate, so the only place raw fuel can escape if it's damaged is at the bushing that supports the crankshaft at the front. You can see if it's bad by, when running it, looking and seeing if it's puking fuel out of there.
If it's slobbering rich, it's probably one of two things: Yeah, it could be rich, and it's rich enough to be spewing fuel, that could easily be your dying problem. The engine would be loading up, have lots of raw fuel hanging around and quenching the plug. So - to tweak (and this goes for any engine. I forgot, during setup, to mention that you should have the carb barrel open all the way, but no further. It should close completely with closed throttle and trim and go to full open with open throttle and about 1/2 trim. Anyway - running at full throttle, keep closing the needle valve. The engine will speed up, then at some point, will 'sag' and lose RPM. Don't let it stay there! Open it about 1/4 turn or so, bringing it back to full RPM...maybe more, maybe less, depending on the results of the pinch-and-die test on the line. When you pinch, it should respond quickly - like right NOW - if it doesn't, there's something else wrong.
That's the correct needle setting - nothing Star Wars about it. The Enya's are simple and robust.
The other possibility, and I had it on an OLD K&B .40, is a sloppy front crank bushing. Mine was so bad that the plane would be coated in raw fuel and you'd be wet to the elbow after a day of flying. Holding the plane by putting your feet in front of the elevator resulted in sloppy-wet shoes. I actually gave the engine away cuz I was too lazy to repair it, and it was a STRONG, Perry-pumped-and-carbed engine.
The Enya doesn't have a removable backplate, so the only place raw fuel can escape if it's damaged is at the bushing that supports the crankshaft at the front. You can see if it's bad by, when running it, looking and seeing if it's puking fuel out of there.
#22
Sincraft...I wouldn't worry too much about whether or not you've damaged your engine. You're obviously happy with the power it has when flying so that's good. If it starts easily (by hand, electric starters cover up a multitude of sins) then that's another sign it's in good shape. Turn it to TDC, preferably when warm, and see if it holds compression for a reasonable time. "Reasonable" in the old days with cast iron pistons was at least 5 seconds. Take off the muffler and have a look at the piston for score marks. The chances are that there's nothing wrong with your engine.
Although there's a correct way to run these in, so long as it wasn't abused (even if unknowingly) then the difference shouldn't be anything to make you lose any sleep over. But to keep it in good shape then I'd suggest using at least 20% oil (and more certainly won't hurt) with half or more of that oil being castor. If it's a plain bearing engine then it definitely needs that amount of oil (that goes for all bushed engines). As for the tune, you can never run these too rich, it's the lean side that causes damage.
Although there's a correct way to run these in, so long as it wasn't abused (even if unknowingly) then the difference shouldn't be anything to make you lose any sleep over. But to keep it in good shape then I'd suggest using at least 20% oil (and more certainly won't hurt) with half or more of that oil being castor. If it's a plain bearing engine then it definitely needs that amount of oil (that goes for all bushed engines). As for the tune, you can never run these too rich, it's the lean side that causes damage.
#23
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
Don't let it stay there!

See my problem, after I found out why it was running at full throttle at half throttle stick, was that I could never get to the point where I would be able to tweak it out. Last year I remember just going full throttle, turning the valve until it stopped screaming...then backing off a bit.
On saturday, someone else tuned it for me. First time it was tuned properly all year. And it was only run a handful of times all year to begin with. However as I said, trying to tweak it..it sounded like it was WAY to rich to begin with. I am hoping I didn't damage anything. I would lock up if I didn't hurry and drop the needle to make it rich again. Locking up or stalling at LEAN is probably real bad. But I can't imagine how much really and doubt anything horribly wrong will occur as it is pretty basic concept of combustion. Longevity? Who needs it. I just don't want to replace this pig this year, and would like to keep this trainer in tact for others to fly.
TODAY was a GREAT day!
Hurricane Isabel is coming. Not that it will make it through two mountain ranges..but it WILL make it unflyable for more than a few days here. I have a day off coming on friday but I know (as in the past) my days off I choose always result in rain/cold or general pestilence to combat with. Knowing this, I am way too itchy to fly. I left work a tad bit early and hoped someone would be at the airfield. And there was. Just not the someones I was hoping for (experienced pilots) Unfortunatly our airfield was built by those that believe it is to be looked at but not flown in any manner. So they built a walking trail RIGHT next to the end of the runway and refused to clear some 40 foot trees. Actually it really isn't too much of a problem as long as you don't suck really really bad. But the other bad thing is that the walking trail also continues along side of the airfield approximately where most would normally consider the 'spectator' line. Thus it brings a plentiful crowd of people...ESPECIALLY on a nice day as it was this evening. The sun shinning as it sets right where we need to fly. The only reason to fly over the walking area is for the 2nd to last leg of a landing. My muffler redirector (plastic thingy) fell off on my 3rd turn and I watched it bounce about 20 feet from a family walking their dog.BTW I HATE WALMART, story about that later.
Ok, so not sure if I touched on this or not. But I only really flew about 8 times last year. Of which I didn't do the landing or the takeoffs on most. In total I have 3 landings 4 takeoffs and 1 semi solo flight as of last year. This year I have 0 as someone took my FINALLY working plane up and down for me. I just puttered around.
Fed up with the lack of help and the year growing short. I went for it today. I tuned my engine slightly to decently rich. I even let about 1/2 of a tank go through it only the LOWEST idle speed I could get to without it stalling. I was actually amazed as it seems many have stated this is a point I would not acheive for quite some time. I then SLOWLY taxied up and down the runway to cool it before shutting it down and refueling. The windsock (standard sock) was solid crosswind of about 15 mph. I flew in it on sunday with the instructor, but only really worried about 2 things. Stalling on takeoff and landing. Before I tookoff I made sure my engine could run on high speed and hold the model up in the air. The response was a bit sloppy. but I was happy with the reliability factor as it was set at the time. So I had to decide to either go, or pack up and wait and hope the next time I came out there would be someone there to help me...or the people that I could schedule with could correspond their schedule to mine and the weather (fat chance). So I said screw it. I gassed her up. She puttered and spit as oil spewed out of the muffler but finally caught at about 1/2 throttle and started really speeding up. Just before I hit the grass I pulled back and about 2 feet in I was up. Nice and beautiful sharp yet gentle climb and I made my first turn. Just above the sun as I made my full 180. I invented a new way to fly with the sun in your face..but it can't be explained on here but I'm sure many know how to
So I decide I am going to fly a box and land it AS SOON as possible because I REALLY wanted it back down almost as fast as I had made the decision to take it up eheh. I made a box. then another. I cut the throttle. It climbed more. I pushed down AND cut the throttle. It still climbed. So I stopped fighting it and made sure I was at the 180 degree point of landing and really cut the throttle. THIS ENYA is POWERFUL. At only 3 notches...it flies with absolutely NO problem. I had to cut down to the last idle point with my trim up high on the throttle to find a nice landing speed. I made my descent (ugly) made my 2nd to last turn (very ugly) pulled up...opps to far over ...pointed it RIGHT at me. Let her fly a bit more..more ahhh pull up..no push down. ok over the runway 'area'. Ok now in the safe short grass (only 15 feet from a cliff and very tall grass) Ok 10 feet off the ground..CUT the throttle. descent pretty flat and quick, just skimmed the grass..then rolled across the runway ...back into the grass about 2 feet and stopped 1 inch from my foot! 
WOOOOH!
MY FIRST SOLO. Without a person there. Last year I only solod once and had two good pilots next to me to help out if disaster struck. I was proud of my speed of learning back then, and am actually just as proud today as noone was with me...and I only flew one other time (sunday) since I did that solo last year almost to the date.

Anyway, the Enya seems to be running. At first she is still starting backwards, running rough and stalling when I pull the glo charger off (rich obviously). But after the 3rd start she wants to run. I will tweak it out more as I get the time and patients. But today I didn't want to risk getting to that point where I couldn't start it again and couldnt figure out why it would stall like it did so many other times. Even the guys at the airfield couldnt get it running until sunday both myself and another worked with it for 20 minutes and it magically seemed to run correctly. (not to mention with the correct glow plug in it hehe, sure helps)
Anyway, that's my story. I'm a happy camper but not NEARLY as much as I was when I landed that sucker..shook like hell and didn't kill any walkers, pets, or what-nots
OH and why do I hate walmart. WELL after I landed. Just before I was about to switch off my power. My servos starting going NUTS. I said ***?!?! Then I hear this whinning behind me. Some beavis and his kid are walking on the the trail behind me with this giant RC truck. Not a care in the world. UM. I suppose this was why? Or do they use a different frequency? Anyway, I have seen this truck in wally mart for 99 bux. Anyone know which I speak of? It takes up and entire endcap shelve. Could this 'toy' interfere with my plane, and if so doesn't the guy have to check the airfield first before using that thing?
Just wondering. I asked him to tell use the next time he comes down even though I wasnt sure cause it 'COULD' cause one of use to lose our stuff or worse, damage/ hurt someone.
S
#24
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
As for the tune, you can never run these too rich, it's the lean side that causes damage
And I have the power I need, and it doesn't stall so I'm all good. I am actually going to chop the elevator a bit for a more level flight at 1/3 power as I would like to retain speed while keeping my elevation current. Man it still flies so fast. The trainer guy I was flying with on Sunday, even said it seemed a bit quick for a trainer.My next step is to build another wing for it. I have it setup as a 3 channel with the highest dihedral. I am going to change it to the medium dihedral or low and put a 4th channel on there. Probably not until I have flown and landed many more times successfully. But at least it gives me something to do, and keeps me out of trouble

S
#25
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Elizabeth,
PA
Another questions: Most the fuels I am seeing resemble something like this...
Nitro 10%
Oil 18% (80% synthetic, 20% racing castor
but from what I am hearing, that is a big NOOOO. Mine is at least 20%..dunno how much castor though.
HMMM?
Nitro 10%
Oil 18% (80% synthetic, 20% racing castor
but from what I am hearing, that is a big NOOOO. Mine is at least 20%..dunno how much castor though.
HMMM?


