I was just wondering if there was a tool to put threading on my metal control rod.

This is my procedure now: I cut the metal rod to size, and only one end of the rod has the threading. I thread on the plastic clip that clips on to the control horn on the end that has the threading. On the other end, I make an "L" bend that clip on a different type of clip that keeps the rod connected to the servo horn. I really like using these metal clips that are made for pull-pull systems since they thread on easier and in turn makes it easier to adjust the length of extension my conrol rod has. The only problem is, I can't put it on the servo end because of the lack of threading. I hate making those "L" bends and adding that clip. It's really not engineered too well and sometimes the connection area hits the servo causing immobility/battery drain.

I hope all this made sense. I wish I knew all the proper terms for all the parts. I'm sure that would make it much easier for you pros to understand.

Tower Hobbies has the tool your looking for, remember the size of rod you use when ordering the thread die, i use 2-56, the threader works pretty good, and it has saved me some $$$ also, i think it cost around $7 there.


Goodluck

I think this is what you are looking for.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE225&P=7

To thread a rod, you need a die. A tap is to thread a hole. Many hardware stores carry these.

Perhaps YOU are OVER-engineering the connection? Hitting the servo is a rare problem with most any type of connection. Can you post a picture of what you have?

Only problem is that the prethreaded rods are threaded using a rolling process not a die. The diameter of the wire is smaller than the thread and the wire will not take a die and give you a full thread. I would like to know where you can get pre-threaded push rods that you can cut to length and rethread the end with a die and get a full depth thread. I have used the rod-chuck system with a welding rod and a two step die- threading process where you can get a full depth thread either 2-56 or 4-40 threads. That way I can make my own push rods to any length.

You're right flianbrian, I am "OVER-engineering" the connection. LOL.

The problem is that when the servo moves all the way to the extremes, the plastic part is hits the servo arm. And to think that I was a E.E. major. LOL. Let me see if I can post the pic.

A good way to do it is to buy the 4-40 rods threaded on one side and either use a 4-40 size connector (a clevis or ball joint, etc.) on one side and then "die cut" a 2-56 on other side. You can put the larger connector where ever you want. Or just buy fully threaded rod and cut to size and stick em in nyrods or whatever.

I'm having problems posting the pic. When I click on "Upload Images" it asks for the path to the picture. I guide it and click OK. After a while, it says upload was successful. Well, what is the path of the image that I just uploaded.

Am I doing this all wrong?

For my metal rod connections, I have both a threaded clevis, and a soldered clevis. I don't need to thread anything. I thread the metal clevis on the servo end, and the other end, I use a solder clevis. That is, once measured, adn all is 'straight', I cut it to length, and then solder it on. Sullivan and Du Bro both make 'solder celvises'. You'll need to pick up a small torch, some plumbers flux, and solder. Acetone will clean it all up in a jiffy!

One 'danger' about using threaded clevises on both end is that you have to 'lock' one end so the rod does not turn / rotate. As you turn teh rod (due to vibrations), it'll unthread in one clevis, but thread in on the other.

I use the brass threaded ends that you can solder on the cut end of the rod to create threads. I also use nylon clevises on both ends, which pretty much eliminates the rod rotation problem. If you're using metal clevises, the rod spinning out is a real issue with threads on both ends.

I do not remember the exact web address but just look up "Rodchuck" with a search engine. It is a kit for making either 4-40 or 2-56 threaded connections.

Here is a pic with the servo at its extreme.

Lot's of good suggestions above.
Do you NEED that much servo arm travel? Cut down the travel (EPA, ATV) so you don't have the binding, and maybe move the clevis on the opposite end to a hole closer to the control surface if you need to. Or a longer servo arm plus less travel.

Do a "Z" bend instead of the "L".

Turn the rod around so the "L" is at the horn (but more of a pain to adjust at the servo).

I most probably will not need that much travel. I just thought that normally, you would put the servo to its extremes to test if there is any binding. Well, thanks guys.

Dear Geish:
Smitty is absolutly right. Do not ever try to thread a rod with a die. It will not hold up. However having said that it is very possible to thread the rod. Set up your control throws. Adjust as nesessary then solder the BRASS clevis to the rod you threaded. This will makle a very good connection. Best of luck.