How do u put servos in an ARF if it is all covered alreadY?
#1
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From: Highland Park,
IL
I know I know, im a newbie, but im getting closer and closer to buying myself a plane and want to know AS MUCH as possible
reason for edit: Very poor and distasteful sig line, this is a family site.
reason for edit: Very poor and distasteful sig line, this is a family site.
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From: West Middlesex,
PA
Okay Maxx, here's the skinny!!!!! ARF's generally have the cutouts already for servos. You don't really have to cut anything up.
Just put together the rubber grommets on the servos. Follow the ARF instructions for servo locations. Then, drill 1/64 holes and use the servo mounting screws. Hell, my rottweiler Brutus can do that and he rides the little yellow bus to school every morning!!!
And, you would line up where your pushrods get located in conjunction with the servo. Then, add your control horn and line them up with the pushrod. Drill 3 to 4 holes for the control horn and voila! You gots a controlling surface!!! Best thing is just take your time. Most trainer ARF's take newbies into consideration when you are putting them together.
Dave...
Just put together the rubber grommets on the servos. Follow the ARF instructions for servo locations. Then, drill 1/64 holes and use the servo mounting screws. Hell, my rottweiler Brutus can do that and he rides the little yellow bus to school every morning!!!

And, you would line up where your pushrods get located in conjunction with the servo. Then, add your control horn and line them up with the pushrod. Drill 3 to 4 holes for the control horn and voila! You gots a controlling surface!!! Best thing is just take your time. Most trainer ARF's take newbies into consideration when you are putting them together.
Dave...
#5

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The hardest part on some is getting the pushrod through the fuselage and out the little slot to the rudder or elevator.
Here's a "tip" though. Get a small piece of tubing, like from a "Nyrod" and insert it through the slots from the back up into the servo compartment, then put the end of the pushrod into the tube and work them both back and out the slot.
Dennis-
Here's a "tip" though. Get a small piece of tubing, like from a "Nyrod" and insert it through the slots from the back up into the servo compartment, then put the end of the pushrod into the tube and work them both back and out the slot.
Dennis-
#6

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ORIGINAL: t to the maxx2
I know I know, im a newbie, but im getting closer and closer to buying myself a plane and want to know AS MUCH as possible
I know I know, im a newbie, but im getting closer and closer to buying myself a plane and want to know AS MUCH as possible
http://www.hangar-9.com
and pick a plane from the trainer section or any section if you wish, I only chose trainers since you are just starting out. Usually at the bottom, there is a link that will allow you to download the instruction manual and you can read it from there. This can be done for most of the planes on Tower Hobbies web site also. I often do this just before I make a decision on a new plane so I can get a feel for it's construction.
http://www.towerhobbies.com/index.html
Hangar 9 is not the only one that does this. Most, but not all, of the manufactures offer the instruction manuals online for free. I just picked this because all of their planes are ARF kits.
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From: Fort Mohave,
AZ
Another good tip when installing your servos is after you tap the hole
for your screws, Put a couple of drops of thin CA around the holes to
strengthen the area, let dry then install your servos.. Don't forget to
use fuel tubing over your RC links to insure they stay on.. Another
good one is if your Kit/ARF comes with metal rods for the throttle, Its
better to modify it by cutting it in half and adding nylon/or something
between the two halfs to have some give in case of nose-in's or just
use a cable for the throttle.. It's been known to save some equipment
during training.
for your screws, Put a couple of drops of thin CA around the holes to
strengthen the area, let dry then install your servos.. Don't forget to
use fuel tubing over your RC links to insure they stay on.. Another
good one is if your Kit/ARF comes with metal rods for the throttle, Its
better to modify it by cutting it in half and adding nylon/or something
between the two halfs to have some give in case of nose-in's or just
use a cable for the throttle.. It's been known to save some equipment
during training.
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From: Cedar Rapids,
IA
Well, you could solve the problem completely by not buying an ARF and just build a kit. That way it's easy to see how to install the servo's and pushrods, etc.
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From: el centro, CA
sometimes...
de hole in the firewall...to get long stiff rods into the fuse
nice if the tank and engine was'nt installed first
.
you can also use strings as a pull line to pull the rods thourgh the rear exit
of the fuselage.
use weight..screws, needle or whatever to help run the string.
same method for dual aileron servos.
some ARF have guide tubes...some don't..
there's also rubber gromets and eyelets use to mount the servos.
this help isolate vibrations to the servos.
the flange side of the eyelet gose between the servo and mounting surface.
de hole in the firewall...to get long stiff rods into the fuse
nice if the tank and engine was'nt installed first
.you can also use strings as a pull line to pull the rods thourgh the rear exit
of the fuselage.
use weight..screws, needle or whatever to help run the string.
same method for dual aileron servos.
some ARF have guide tubes...some don't..
there's also rubber gromets and eyelets use to mount the servos.
this help isolate vibrations to the servos.
the flange side of the eyelet gose between the servo and mounting surface.
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From: Worcester,
MA
Lucky Armpit, you have a Tiger II ARF right?
Did you have any trouble with yours? I had some badly drilled holes and wrong hardware in mine.
Did you have any trouble with yours? I had some badly drilled holes and wrong hardware in mine.
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From: West Middlesex,
PA
Yub'ster, the only problem I had with the Tiger 2 was the dummies drilled the holes in the firewall for the throttle rod and nose gear upside down. I had to drill my own. Also, if you are using the trike gear, the nose gear metal is pretty soft. Mine bent on every landing. I have since replaced it with Dubro gear. Everything on the firewall that mounts I used screws, nuts and lockwashers. I don't trust blind nuts that use wood screws to tighten (mounting the engine mount). These items always
get loose from vibration.
Dave...
get loose from vibration.
Dave...



Ask around ok!!!

