Fuel proofing Field box
01-31-2003, 05:37 PM
#4
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by vacinekm
I painted mine with thinned epoxy.
I painted mine with thinned epoxy.
What brand of epoxy?
I have here both the putty and liquid DEVCON but the Epoxy needs to me mixed in equal parts.Shellac would be nice but I can't find the stuff around here anymore
01-31-2003, 05:56 PM
#5
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by Slug
My flight box, varnished 20 years ago, is holding up just fine.
Simon.
My flight box, varnished 20 years ago, is holding up just fine.
Simon.
I never knew that varnish would hold up to the fuel chemicals.
I make canoes and kayaks and use varnish because I can remove it very easy with a light grit sand paper and found in some places it's pealing off.
I'll give it a try since it is cheaper.
If needed then I can epoxy right over it.
Thanks for the post
01-31-2003, 06:15 PM
#6
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Flight Box Finish
I just completed a two gallon fuel carrier using birch plywood. Finished it with water based Varathane Diamond clear gloss floor finish (it's a water based polyurethane). I used 5 coats, sanded between each. Water based ployu is very light weight.
So far (a month) of exposure to 10% and 15% nitro have not shown any problems. I also use this stuff to fuel proff engine and tank areas and for glassing.
A downside might be its cost. Currently running about $38.00/gallon at Lowe's.
Works for me...
Dan
So far (a month) of exposure to 10% and 15% nitro have not shown any problems. I also use this stuff to fuel proff engine and tank areas and for glassing.
A downside might be its cost. Currently running about $38.00/gallon at Lowe's.
Works for me...
Dan
01-31-2003, 10:26 PM
#7
Re: Flight Box Finish
Originally posted by dant
A downside might be its cost. Currently running about $38.00/gallon at Lowe's.
Works for me...
Dan
A downside might be its cost. Currently running about $38.00/gallon at Lowe's.
Works for me...
Dan
WOW!!!
Thats what I call a real downer.
I think I still have a pine can of resin left.
I just need to get the small can of hardner.
I had more fun putting this hunk of crap together then I did building an airplane
02-01-2003, 04:20 AM
#9
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Fuel proofing Field box
The simplest finish I could find for my field box was a couple of coats of Rustoleum - white - straight out of the spray can.
Cheap, quick and has held up fine for about 2 years now.
Time spent on my flight box was time spent Not Flying!
Take care,
Cheap, quick and has held up fine for about 2 years now.
Time spent on my flight box was time spent Not Flying!
Take care,
02-01-2003, 05:49 AM
#10
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by rajul
I painted my SIG field box with zolathane clear polyurethane paint (3 coats). Beautiful smooth and glossy finishing, hard, and chemical resistant.
I painted my SIG field box with zolathane clear polyurethane paint (3 coats). Beautiful smooth and glossy finishing, hard, and chemical resistant.
I stained that box to dark but I think a nice gloss coat will make it look much better
02-01-2003, 05:51 AM
#11
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by klumsy_kid
The simplest finish I could find for my field box was a couple of coats of Rustoleum - white - straight out of the spray can.
Cheap, quick and has held up fine for about 2 years now.
Time spent on my flight box was time spent Not Flying!
Take care,
The simplest finish I could find for my field box was a couple of coats of Rustoleum - white - straight out of the spray can.
Cheap, quick and has held up fine for about 2 years now.
Time spent on my flight box was time spent Not Flying!
Take care,
I just may look into that .
I thought Rustoleum was for metal only.
02-01-2003, 07:42 AM
#13
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fuel proofing field box
Vegas
The field box of mine that you were looking at earlier was varnished with boat varnish. This has lasted for 25 yrs without even getting discolored. I have never had to revarnish any of the box.
Lee
The field box of mine that you were looking at earlier was varnished with boat varnish. This has lasted for 25 yrs without even getting discolored. I have never had to revarnish any of the box.
Lee
02-01-2003, 02:37 PM
#14
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Fuel proofing Field box
I spayed mine with gray primer, sanded lightly, and then recoated with two coats of happy yellow rustoleum. Then I brushed a coat of thinned epoxy on the interior of the fuel bottle and battery compartments.
Thin any brand of epoxy with denatured alchohol.
Thin any brand of epoxy with denatured alchohol.
02-01-2003, 04:41 PM
#15
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by ctdahle
I spayed mine with gray primer, sanded lightly, and then recoated with two coats of happy yellow rustoleum. Then I brushed a coat of thinned epoxy on the interior of the fuel bottle and battery compartments.
Thin any brand of epoxy with denatured alchohol.
I spayed mine with gray primer, sanded lightly, and then recoated with two coats of happy yellow rustoleum. Then I brushed a coat of thinned epoxy on the interior of the fuel bottle and battery compartments.
Thin any brand of epoxy with denatured alchohol.
.Yeah,
I have to hit some stores and look for some cheaper prices.
Your the 2nd person that responded saying they use rustoleum.
Thanks for the info.
02-01-2003, 07:27 PM
#16
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Fuel proofing Field box
Try Walmart, they have fast drying gray primer for 97cents, rustoleum for about 2.50, and denatured alcohol by the quart for under 3 bucks.
Spray your box with primer this morning, give it two coats of rustoleum tonight and then leave it in your furnace room next to the flue so all the fumes are drawn up the chimney, for about a week so it cures out really hard. Then do the fuel proofing bit friday night and you are ready to fly saturday morning.
Have fun.
Spray your box with primer this morning, give it two coats of rustoleum tonight and then leave it in your furnace room next to the flue so all the fumes are drawn up the chimney, for about a week so it cures out really hard. Then do the fuel proofing bit friday night and you are ready to fly saturday morning.
Have fun.
02-01-2003, 08:18 PM
#17
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by ctdahle
Try Walmart, they have fast drying gray primer for 97cents, rustoleum for about 2.50, and denatured alcohol by the quart for under 3 bucks.
Spray your box with primer this morning, give it two coats of rustoleum tonight and then leave it in your furnace room next to the flue so all the fumes are drawn up the chimney, for about a week so it cures out really hard. Then do the fuel proofing bit friday night and you are ready to fly saturday morning.
Have fun.
Try Walmart, they have fast drying gray primer for 97cents, rustoleum for about 2.50, and denatured alcohol by the quart for under 3 bucks.
Spray your box with primer this morning, give it two coats of rustoleum tonight and then leave it in your furnace room next to the flue so all the fumes are drawn up the chimney, for about a week so it cures out really hard. Then do the fuel proofing bit friday night and you are ready to fly saturday morning.
Have fun.
Enough to do several boxes unless she has planes for me to build her something
02-01-2003, 10:33 PM
#18
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by Whirley Bird
.Thanks for the information but the Little Lady just came in with a can of Clear POLYURTHANE COATING.
Enough to do several boxes unless she has planes for me to build her something
.Thanks for the information but the Little Lady just came in with a can of Clear POLYURTHANE COATING.
Enough to do several boxes unless she has planes for me to build her something
.Well, I did screw up a bit.
I never used this stuff with a brush and I created some minor run marks.
But considering this was headed for the trash bin,
it came out good.
I just sorry I didn't pick out a lighter stain.
This is only the first coat and I think I will sand out the few runs and go slower with the 2nd and third coats.
At least it's going to be used and will be very functional.
Where the 7 amp battery goes i'm going to use some small brass hinges and a latch.
I may as well dress it up and put some brass band strips around all the exposed edges.
There were no wood for dividers for the 2nd drawer so I guess that will be used for bigger items and go with the fuel tank that has a built in pump on the side.
If you didn't see the other post on this I had to make the power panel permanently fixed because the wood was so warped.
When I get the SIG built up then i'll sell this CHEAP with the power meter
02-02-2003, 12:38 AM
#20
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by Whirley Bird
.
.Well, I did screw up a bit.
I never used this stuff with a brush and I created some minor run marks.
But considering this was headed for the trash bin,
it came out good.
I just sorry I didn't pick out a lighter stain.
This is only the first coat and I think I will sand out the few runs and go slower with the 2nd and third coats.
At least it's going to be used and will be very functional.
Where the 7 amp battery goes i'm going to use some small brass hinges and a latch.
I may as well dress it up and put some brass band strips around all the exposed edges.
There were no wood for dividers for the 2nd drawer so I guess that will be used for bigger items and go with the fuel tank that has a built in pump on the side.
If you didn't see the other post on this I had to make the power panel permanently fixed because the wood was so warped.
When I get the SIG built up then i'll sell this CHEAP with the power meter
.
.Well, I did screw up a bit.
I never used this stuff with a brush and I created some minor run marks.
But considering this was headed for the trash bin,
it came out good.
I just sorry I didn't pick out a lighter stain.
This is only the first coat and I think I will sand out the few runs and go slower with the 2nd and third coats.
At least it's going to be used and will be very functional.
Where the 7 amp battery goes i'm going to use some small brass hinges and a latch.
I may as well dress it up and put some brass band strips around all the exposed edges.
There were no wood for dividers for the 2nd drawer so I guess that will be used for bigger items and go with the fuel tank that has a built in pump on the side.
If you didn't see the other post on this I had to make the power panel permanently fixed because the wood was so warped.
When I get the SIG built up then i'll sell this CHEAP with the power meter
02-02-2003, 12:46 AM
#21
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by rajul
Hi whirleybird, try not staining your next box. them wood grains turn out beautifully with plain urethane. just make sure that you dilute the paint and apply 2-3 *thin* coatings with light sanding in between. zolathane is diluted with paint thinner and it has a nice tint to it.
Hi whirleybird, try not staining your next box. them wood grains turn out beautifully with plain urethane. just make sure that you dilute the paint and apply 2-3 *thin* coatings with light sanding in between. zolathane is diluted with paint thinner and it has a nice tint to it.
OK I assume the paint shops know what ZOLATHANE is?
Well this kit had wood as white as a sheet and the color lable on the can of stain looked lighter then it was.
I worked with stains before but I had already built this box thinking it would be a real junker so I was not able to rub out the stain like I usually do.
Thanks for the info.
Really appreciated
02-02-2003, 03:43 AM
#23
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by rajul
whirleybird, i've posted some pics here http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...496&forumid=63 check it out !
whirleybird, i've posted some pics here http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...496&forumid=63 check it out !
I have a SIG box coming,the big one like you have.
I like the 1/4 ply uprights to support the plane.
Everyone TH sells uses the 1/8th balsa and it's not very strong so I never bothered to install it.
I have a couple of questions.
What pump is that and who sells it?
Doesn't look like anything I saw in TH catalog.
The removable carry bar is your own mod?.
Very nice setup.
I guess you have access to a band saw?.
$22.00 differance between the TH box and the SIG and you have all good quality materials.
The pictures show the quality of the SIG box.
Thanks for posting themm
02-02-2003, 04:09 AM
#24
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by rajul
whirleybird, i've posted some pics here http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...496&forumid=63 check it out !
whirleybird, i've posted some pics here http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...496&forumid=63 check it out !
The first coat dried and the runs just shrunk away
so I went easy on the second application.I guess 3 should do it.
I'll save the remainder for the SIG box.
Thanks for the picturess
02-02-2003, 04:48 AM
#25
Fuel proofing Field box
Originally posted by Whirley Bird
.rajul,That is really a nice looking box.
I have a SIG box coming,the big one like you have.
I like the 1/4 ply uprights to support the plane.
Everyone TH sells uses the 1/8th balsa and it's not very strong so I never bothered to install it.
I have a couple of questions.
What pump is that and who sells it?
Doesn't look like anything I saw in TH catalog.
The removable carry bar is your own mod?.
Very nice setup.
I guess you have access to a band saw?.
$22.00 differance between the TH box and the SIG and you have all good quality materials.
The pictures show the quality of the SIG box.
Thanks for posting them
.rajul,That is really a nice looking box.
I have a SIG box coming,the big one like you have.
I like the 1/4 ply uprights to support the plane.
Everyone TH sells uses the 1/8th balsa and it's not very strong so I never bothered to install it.
I have a couple of questions.
What pump is that and who sells it?
Doesn't look like anything I saw in TH catalog.
The removable carry bar is your own mod?.
Very nice setup.
I guess you have access to a band saw?.
$22.00 differance between the TH box and the SIG and you have all good quality materials.
The pictures show the quality of the SIG box.
Thanks for posting them
The pump is a slimline boxxer. about the best and most reliable electric pump out there. Tower has it. The carry bar is not removable but the cradle is. I used a good old razor saw and B&D rtx (dremel equivalent, only more power
). the curves are done by marking out with pencil (I copied the outline of my ernst ultra stand), then drilling holes along the marking and "joining" up the holes with a Higley reamer bit, and final sanding with a sanding drum. let me know if you need anything else..................mike
