Got the Left wing done and ready for covering, the right wing is framed up and ready for sheeting. This kit is going together so fast and strait that it is scary. I'm really trying to take my time, but the parts are ready to go as fast as the glue dries (20-30 min., using CA to tack in place and wood glue to finish the gluing). I've shown other Builders my progress and they all seam very impressed at my progress and the quality of my work (so although I feel like I’m rushing I’m really not!).

Sorry for the spelling as my spell check dose not work.

Don t worry.SSE builds super fast. Just about as fasr as you can jig it up and drop the glue in, your ready for the next step.

Finally got around to cleaning my car and guess what I found.... that's right my camera. So hear are some pics of my progress and of my work space.

Will 5 min. epoxy work good for the firewall or sould i go get 15 or 30 min?

I need help. I got the LE and TE sheating on the right wing, and i noticed that the TE bows up slightly, apears to be equal on the inbord and outbord. I have tryed twice to spay it down with water then pined and waited it down and this did not work. My last opon seams to cut the 1/4 stock off the back and replace it (would like not to!) the bow is about 3/16 ince on the inbord section with the tip held down the the bord. Is this some thing to worry about? How can i fix it?????

OH NO, he's building on the wall, just like Pilot Chad did!!!! Long story there.

Is sheeting done on top and bottom?

I would be checking the level and trueness of my work suface if I were you. Crooked airplanes fly crooked. Not that I would know...[&o] I would probably try to saturate the TE for a couple of hrs, and then put a stand off under the inboard and outboard tips of the wing and put weight in the center opposite direction of bow. You risk warping your wing in other direactions by doing this, though just due to the difference in flexibility from the leading to trailing edge. There are lots of people smarter than me on this forum, listen to them.

sheating is only done to the top. I went out and bought some new 1/4 stock and will cut out the old. The LE and main spares are strights it's just the little bow at the TE.

Can't say that it WILL happen this time but SOMETIMES when the sheeting is put on the opposite side it will pull the wing straight.

Was the TE stock straight before you assembled it?

dont know if it was. I've removed the TE 1/4 stock and have pined weted 1/4 sock to a flat surface in a streight line (had some warpage). Now i 'm geting the wing ready for the new peace. Tell you what removing that peace was harder than the construction of it.

That, I could have told you. Heat loosens epoxy or usually wood glue. Debonder on CA.

zachmccool,
Ok, let me see if I understand your problem. You're saying that the trailing edge isn't straight? And this is before you have sheeted the other side of the wing, correct?

On the SSE wing it can look out of shape until you sheet the second side. You need to use a 1" piece of wood to block up the TE, and make sure the spar stays flat on the building board, and when you sheet the second side of the wing it will help put everything in shape (step 14 in the manual). But you can't look at it when only one side of the wing is sheeted.

Hope this helps

Ken

Got the new TE 1/4 stock in. It still seam's a little bowed but not as bad as before. Ken I'll continue as is and hope that the instructions (and you) are right. I’m now letting the glue dry and might work on it some tonight (I actually got HW tonight)

HW = Hot Wings?

j/k HomeWork - Been there, done too much of that.

HW takes no time when you’re a freshman. Any way's just so up dates, The TE 1/4 stock is put on the TE sheeting. The middle section of sheeting is being prepared and the will be glued in.

(Got to love the many uses of the cal. Book!)

Judging by the overhead light fixture, widow blinds, bunk bed and wall outlet I'd say DORM ROOM.

Got the aileron for the right wing done. I have also glued to gather the elevator and stab., one of my 2 mods I'm doing is to counter balance the elevator. (the other mod is to counter balance the ruder.) The right wing is not done but the next few steps require me to spread out over the floor so I'm going to wait until this week end.

Just won a new OS .46 FX off of e-bay. $73. So now I don’t have to retire the P-51 once the Somethin' Extra gets done.

How much do you all think a Scat Cat 500 would be worth with a OS .40 LA, servos, and battery? Thinking about getting rid of it now.

Finished the Ruder and Elevator (and both Stabs.) And now it's time to start on the Fuse. This kit realy go's to gather very fast.

I'll post pics tomorrow.

When using regular wood glue you have to be careful with warpage as the glue takes longer to set even tough it gets tackey pretty fast it isn't full set and if you move the part it can induce warp. Another thing I learned about regular wood glue is the moisture in the glue will cause critical parts to warp sometimes as the glue is absorbed into the wood. The moisture caused the wood to swell and get larger, you can actually see this happening on some parts. Make sure you weight everything down with those books might as well get your moneys worth out of them. Weight, clamps, and pins should help keep things straight. Some critical parts just plain work better if you will tack with CA to help hold parts till wood glue dries. I have tried wood glue on many planes before I just finally got tired of trying to hold all these critical parts straigh and finally decided for me I would use CA on some areas and wood glue on others. I have been experimenting on the last few models with Polyurethane glues and the seem work really well because you can apply and scrape most off clamp together and the glue expands engough to give a good glue joint. This results in very light and strong airplanes and like wood glue it is relative cheap and because you can use so little it goes a long way. Tooth picks, syringes, and small cheap brushes helps apply just the righ amount which is as little as you can get on most parts to be glued. The Something Extra is one of the easies planes to build and fly out there I have had two and will build another is a few more years. It is fast agile and very aerobatic. THe 46 should pull it ok, but if larger motor is needed you will need longer landing gear.

Should I epoxy in the fire wall? The instructions dose not say to use epoxy.

Yeah. Epoxy the landing gear ply mount as well as the back sides of the blind nuts. I don't think the instructions specifically tell you to use epoxy. I reinforced the firewall and landing gear mount with some triangle stock.

Don't get epoxy inside the blind nuts obviously.

I used Thick CA for the blind nuts like the instructions say.
The new pic's inclued: Everthing done so far, close up of elevator, close up of Ruder.

K. You might also consider installing a different tailwheel assembly than the kit comes with. The supplied tailwheel setup is prone to ripping the rudder off from what I have gleaned in the many other threads about this plane. I used a Dubro unit that mounts to the fuse and is only steered by the rudder. Looks good, I'm looking fwd to seeing your covering. RCKen's control surface covering method is gold.

I've decided to go with regular red, white, and carbon fiber Ultrakote. It will be coverd in the same scheme as posted before. I also have a Graphtec Carbon fiber landing gear on its way! All control surfaces will be carbon fiber Ultrakote and gap sealed. The hatch floor will also be Carbon fiber!
Do you all think this will over do the Carbon fiber look?