RTV might be the best solution if it will hold. No vibrations, easy to apply, and cheap. Easy to reapply if you ever need to.

BTW, When I said use JB Weld, what I meant was - Glue the original piece back in with JB Weld. Don't try to just fill the hole with it.

Clean it all good with alcohol first.

Once the piece is in place, add a blob of JB Weld on the underside of it for extra strength. Just keep the muffler side clean for a good seal with the muffler.

If you get some JB Weld on the seal, wait till it's cured and then chip or sand it off rather than try to wipe it off which could make the piece move out of place - unless you can easily clean it without the piece moving.

YNOT has a point. I am guessing you got the GMS 32 due to cost vs. ADVERTISED performance. A GMS is harder to break in and tune than a good ole OS .25 and as a beginner you need stick time in the air; not a bunch of frustration on the ground. Get an OS .25 LA. It will fly your plane just fine and be far more reliable in the air. Your second plane will not likely be a .25 size plane so your .32 won't be any more transferable than the .25 unless you are going for combat planes. I know what your thinking, "I already paid for this one and I don't want to waste what I have in it." I know because I have been there and ignored the advice and ended up spending more money in the long run for it. What ever you decide... Best of luck, have fun with it and don't quit.

From post #1: "And no, I no longer have the chunk around so it is not available to reattach."

It seems like it would be easy to square up the area of the missing piece and make a new one to fit.

I will attempt to fix it. I went to Home Depot and got some JB Weld and something called Super Glue All-purpose Permanent Patch that cures with light source http://superglue.supergluecorp.com/15296.html It is a fiberglass-reinforced polyester patch that you cut to the size you need and press where you need it applied, it is activated with sunlight or UV light and is ideal for pipes, metal, concrete, tanks, exhaust pipes, mufflers, and engine parts, and is watertight and durable.

I was thinking seeing as though I no longer have the chunk that broke off I could first apply a patch as mentioned to fill it in, followed by the JB weld, and lastly a coating of Seal-All sealant. That has to accomplish something for now. Probably down the road I will need the crankcase replaced.

That's an awful lot of stuff to put in a very small space, where you don't exactly have a lot of surface area. Why not just fix it right, and get on with enjoying the engine?

And the only other engines I have available is a .40 and a sport .45, Both way to big for a trainer of this size and weight.

If Tower Hobbies won't replace the engine under warranty - assuming that it is a defect, why not just buy a new crankcase? Tower has them for $19.99 [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEGP8&P=X]here[/link] and all you would need to do is take the guts from the old one and put them into the new instead of trying to Southern Engineer something that might cause more problems than it is worth.

Just my .000002 worth,

I just think that the crankcase is $20, maybe $25 with shipping. You're going to spend how much on materials? You've got minimal surface area to work with. That patch you're looking at depends on surface area to work--they're designed for auto mufflers and such, where surface area just isn't an issue.

It's not hard to disassemble an engine. There things you have to be mindful of, but it's not tough. Seeing as you don't appear to have the firewall put on yet, the plane can't be ready to go.

OK, I am sold. Decision made. I will order the new crankcase early this coming week, but still feel safer paying Local Hobby Shop say $10 to do it for me. Still cheaper than new engine. And as of tonight the firewall is attached.

In the Navy, we used a product called "DEVCON" , similar to jb weld, but a lot stronger, if the first conglomeration doesnt stick try some, use a pop sickle stick or something, even heavy card stock to make a dam inside the opening and then file down level with the muff mount area, should be fine, ps 2 stroke engines are a snap to change crankcases, need an oven or a heat gun and about 1/2 hour, lot of paitence, you can have a good engine

Maybe someone could show me a diagram or something on how to do it, or pics. If not I think it safer for me to have LHS do it for me, I know he will, hes done soldering for me and fixed an expensive battery pack for me. I know I would lose some small parts and not be able to put it back together.

And never-the-less, the patches and sealant will come in handy the next time my tenants need repairs done. You know how things are - plumbing and heating always going [:'(]

[link]http://www.raptortechnique.com/enginebearing.htm[/link]

[:'(] ouch hate it when that happens!

a common method for using JB WELD is as follows:
clean REALLY clean with solvent the edges of the break.

use some 1/16 scrap balsa and glue it with A LITTLE ca to the inside of the exaust port.

then apply some jb weld (only use the original not the "quick" stuff)

after about an hour it will be slighty firm, gently shape it to conform to the flat surface the muffler sits on using a small file. BE GENTLE then set it aside for a couple days to cure

then use your exacto knife to remove the small balsa DAM the key is to get the alum totally oil free

we did a club demo of motor repair with this method using a badly crashed LA 40. it had busted off lugs and a crack in the case full length of the lug and busted out screw holes. i would have canned it but we fixed it and so far it has run just fine.

My attempt at repairing. Applied the JB Weld and gonna let it sit for 24 hours. See what happens. Will keep you posted. Ordering the crankcase next week as a backup.

Even if it falls off while running it won't hurt the engine. It'll just fall away from the plane (the patch, not the engine).