I am so angry I could [sm=cry_smile.gif]

My brand new engine just out of the box.

I was assembling my engine for my LT-25 build when removing one of the bolts from the engine mount I ripped a chunk of my engine underneath the muffler case.
I had no idea the metal on an engine can be so soft.

Please tell me this is an easy fix as there is no way it will work proper now. The exhaust will just come out of the hole and it will be noisy as all heck, as well as probably more at stake.

Please look at the pics and recommend an easy and permanent fix that hopefully won't be too noticeable. And no, I no longer have the chunk around so it is not available to reattach.

The chunk is about 1/8" deep and 1/2" across.

PLEASE HELP

Very easy fix, buy a new engine.

I know that sounds harsh, but with the placement of the missing piece any repair is going to be very difficult. That portion of the engine will be exposed to high heat and vibrations which make just about any repair attempts next to impossible. You could try JB Weld, but I wouldn't hold my breath that it's going to last.

Ken

First things first - the metal on a model engine is NOT that soft!

It can and does take a LOT of abuse without breaking!

Unless you have dropped this engine from a great height this should NOT have happened![:@]

You have a defineate defect from the manufacturer! Send it back for replacement!!

IF they will not replace it you need to go to the local hardware store and buy a package of J&B Weld - a high temp Metal Epoxy - you'll figure out how to mold it to fit easily enough.

WOW!!!

Ummmm, not to go down the wrong path, however that sure shows the quality of the motor. What is it?

It's a GMS2000 .32

Bought it from Towerhobbies, what are the chances I can get an exchange?
Don't know about any warranties and I no longer have the shipping box or papers. And I don't know about contacting the manufacturer.

What do you use to repair holes and such in car motors? I imagine they get just as hot.

That's just it, you don't repair holes in car engines either. It's really an interesting place for a piece to break off. If there were no outside forces that caused it then you should contact Tower and tell them about it. Even without the box you should be able to return it (I save every box and manual for all of my engines. The make a great place to store engines when you're not using them). Like I said, repairs are going to be very difficult to do so that they are permenant. As I said, you can try but don't get your hopes up.

Ken

A check book. Seriously, this is not going to be easy and if you start glopping stuff on it in an attempt to repair the chances of getting it exchanged go down.

If you can remember approx when you bought it I'd call Tower and see what they have to say. I still don't know how that happened.

If it's something you yourself did, then it's not something a warranty would cover. Lessons aren't always cheap.

I've been VERY impressed with tower's warranty service. I called them a few months back and said "I am an idiot and put my tower .75 muffler together without locktite, and it came off in flight. Do you think you can send me another one for free?" Tower rep "yep, sounds like we owe you another muffler.."

that easy!

Send it back to Tower, pay the difference and get an OS.

I sent them an email but not expecting anything as I checked my past account with them and I purchased this back in December. I explained the situation to them and found an engine I can exchange with but its only a .28, bit smaller than the .32 I have but all they had in stock for close to same size. It is a Magnum XS28. Are Magnums any good?

No way to solder some kind of fix on it, huh?

if nothing else you might find a machine shop that could repair it, as long as it wasn’t over half of the engine cost it might be worth it. it would require tearing down the engine. I have a mig/tig welder that is a 110 unit if it were my engine I would attempt fixing it. as far as glues or patch fixing it the damage is in a bad place to try to repair that way.

I don't think repair is an option, in terms of being worth doing or economics. A new crankcase is $20.

wow dude, that really bites the big one...what did you do, tap the screw with a hammer or something? you gotta be more careful. take your time. i'd call tower and try to get a replacement from them. or like mikel said...a new case would be and easy fix if that doesnt work. good luck and let us know what happens.

Tiger, I used to work at a machine shop (I did dissasembly and reassembly of engines) I learned alot about the trade. Even if the machinist could fix that crack which would require tig welding to fill the crack and some light machining to resurface. the heat produced would traslate into other parts of the engine It is only cast aluminum. After any major welding was done on a block (we only did this if the engine was rare) a full machine was done to the engine to ensure the block was in check. So in reality to repair that engine properly would cost the price of 3 new GMS .32 or more.

Here is a link to the new block for that engine it's only $20. If tower can't do an exchange or replacement the repair is very simple
and straight forward. to replace the block is the same procedure as replacing the bearings which you will need to learn to do some day.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEGP8&P=Z : link to crank case.

GMS engines have a 2 year warranty, and Tower is amazingly easy to get along with when it comes to replacing things that we screw up. (Not to say you did- I don't know what the circumstances were) Call Hobby Services and tell them what happened, I'm 99.9% sure you will get a whole new replacement engine. If you ordered it over the net, you can go to the website and click on "my account" - you can find your invoice there, or call tower- they can find it also.

I think I will go the new crankcase route. $20 (+ shipping) + paying local hobby shop $10 to replace = LESS THAN BUYING NEW ENGINE
I do not want to attempt taking the engine apart myself, too many small parts I will lose and I'd never get it together again

Thank you all so much for quick responses.

Post # 15 has the link.

Actually, metal castings can be very brittle. I have knocked cooling fins off on more than one occaision [:@]

The area that is damaged is not a good one, and it won't be covered under warranty - that's the bad news

The good news is, before you dish out any cash for a new case or engine, try JB weld.

My dad has an OS91 on which he stripped the muffler threads in the head. He used JB Weld and that engine has been running for years like that.

The combination of JB Weld AND the fact that the muffler will help to hold it on, I'm willing to bet that it will work just fine.

I know that if I did it, that's the first thing I would try

Maybe after using the JB Weld I could coat that with Seal-All sealant. Says on the tube that it is gas and oil resistant. What do you think?

I think I will still purchase the replacement crankcase as a backup.

Ever consider installing the screws from the bottom and putting the nuts/lockwashers on the top side of the mounting flange?

No, bruce, I have never even considered that [X(] didn't know it was an option, I always thought they had to go from the top. But now that I know I think maybe I should do that from now on. Thank you for that suggestion.

It comes in most handy if you have a thick mount and need to use long screws.

Try this:

Clean the area with denatured alcohol. Install the muffler as normal. Now, apply red RTV silicone around the area that is opened from the break. It should hold. And even if you don't do anything, the hole is so small it won't make much more noise than normal, it will just add a bit of extra oil around the engine compartment. If you live in a rural area, fly without the muffler. We used to fly without mufflers all the time 'back in the day'.

I think I will apply the JB Weld and then top-coat with Seal-All sealant or RTV silicone. Double protection, gotta work at least for now until I can get a new crankcase for it and get someone to put it on.