A question about tail wheel assemblies
#1
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From: Spring,
TX
I just broke the rudder on my 4*40 for the second time. [
] The reason? I am a total klutz and when cleaning the plane I put too much down pressure on the horizontal stabilizer which caused the tail wheel to break loose from the rudder. What a goober thing to do! [sm=drowning.gif]
Anyway, that brings me to two questions.
First, I have ordered a new rudder. When it gets here I know I need to attach it to the existing vertical tail fin by using CA hinges. However, I am going to have to fabricate new slots in both the new rudder and the vertical tail fin to receive the CA hinges. (The existing slots in the vertical tail fin which match up with the prefabbed slots in the rudder will already be filled with one-half of a slightly used CA hinge.
) First question - what is the best way to fabricate new slots in the rudder and the vertical tail fin?[sm=confused.gif]
Second question, what is the best tail wheel assembly I can buy for this plane? Do they make an assembly with some sort of spring mechanism can absorb some of the blow from placing too much downward force on the back end of the plane? If not, is there a modification I should make to the existing tail wheel assembly?
] The reason? I am a total klutz and when cleaning the plane I put too much down pressure on the horizontal stabilizer which caused the tail wheel to break loose from the rudder. What a goober thing to do! [sm=drowning.gif]Anyway, that brings me to two questions.
First, I have ordered a new rudder. When it gets here I know I need to attach it to the existing vertical tail fin by using CA hinges. However, I am going to have to fabricate new slots in both the new rudder and the vertical tail fin to receive the CA hinges. (The existing slots in the vertical tail fin which match up with the prefabbed slots in the rudder will already be filled with one-half of a slightly used CA hinge.
) First question - what is the best way to fabricate new slots in the rudder and the vertical tail fin?[sm=confused.gif]Second question, what is the best tail wheel assembly I can buy for this plane? Do they make an assembly with some sort of spring mechanism can absorb some of the blow from placing too much downward force on the back end of the plane? If not, is there a modification I should make to the existing tail wheel assembly?
#2
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From: Bay, MI
I had the same issue last year and I had no problem going right along side of the old hinges, But it might not work for you
it kinda depends on the thickness of the wood too.
And yes they do make a real nice tail wheel assembly with a vertical load spring axle assembly which also has a spring
connection for some forgiving shocks.
it kinda depends on the thickness of the wood too.
And yes they do make a real nice tail wheel assembly with a vertical load spring axle assembly which also has a spring
connection for some forgiving shocks.
#4

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From: Sarnia, ON, CANADA
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]
Hmmm I'm not too sure why you're ordering a new rudder if you just broke the tail wheel... is there more extensive damage to the rudder??
Rudders are just a balsa wood frame placed together with CA glue and a couple of supports and then covered with your choice of covering material. The average Rudder can be put together in 1/2 hour or so; covering to folow. (See attachment)
The Wheel assembly is just wire and very inexpensive, start bending until you get something that you like (see same attachment) - throw away the first 5-10 trials (tell no one...
)
To remove an old hinge take out your Dremel tool and attach a rotory cutting blade. A couple of precise passes will excise the old hinges. If the new slot is too large for your new hinge; fill in the hole with a thin slice of balsa and cut a new slot for the hinge.
Your problem can be solved in one evening in your workshop for under a dollar.
Good Luck
]Hmmm I'm not too sure why you're ordering a new rudder if you just broke the tail wheel... is there more extensive damage to the rudder??
Rudders are just a balsa wood frame placed together with CA glue and a couple of supports and then covered with your choice of covering material. The average Rudder can be put together in 1/2 hour or so; covering to folow. (See attachment)
The Wheel assembly is just wire and very inexpensive, start bending until you get something that you like (see same attachment) - throw away the first 5-10 trials (tell no one...
)To remove an old hinge take out your Dremel tool and attach a rotory cutting blade. A couple of precise passes will excise the old hinges. If the new slot is too large for your new hinge; fill in the hole with a thin slice of balsa and cut a new slot for the hinge.
Your problem can be solved in one evening in your workshop for under a dollar.

Good Luck
#5
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ORIGINAL: M. Michael Meyer
Do you know who manufacturs this tail wheel assembly and where I can get it?
Do you know who manufacturs this tail wheel assembly and where I can get it?
Ken
#6
I've had good luck with the Sullivan tail wheels. Easy to install, spring for hard landings and it is driven from the rudder with a spring so the linkage gives on bumps.
My LHS has it. So does Tower and Horizon hobbies.
My LHS has it. So does Tower and Horizon hobbies.
#7
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From: San Antonio,
TX
I'm with Ken and Pum-doggy. I like and use the Sullivan tail wheel assembly. I currently have some on my Sig 4*60, H9 Twist and H9 AT-6. All three work perfect.
Best of luck..
Best of luck..
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From: Eugene, Or
I Like the CB Associates Tail Wheels.
I have one for my Nosen Citabria.. I'll tell you how it works if I ever finish it
My 40 Cloud Dancer has the Sullivan tail wheel.. it's nice too.
http://www.mecoa.com/cb/tailwheels.htm
I have one for my Nosen Citabria.. I'll tell you how it works if I ever finish it

My 40 Cloud Dancer has the Sullivan tail wheel.. it's nice too.
http://www.mecoa.com/cb/tailwheels.htm
#9
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If it were me, I would avoid using CA hinges again. As you said, you'll need to cut new slots and in a small section like a rudder, there's not much room. I would go with Robat Hinge points.
And don't feel bad Mike, we've all pulled a bone-headed moves more times than we care to think about!
And don't feel bad Mike, we've all pulled a bone-headed moves more times than we care to think about!
#10
I use the Sulliavans on all my taildraggers. Sometimes the back end of the fuselage can be pretty thin in which case
I cut a flat piece of aircraft ply the shape of the white plastic and just thick enough to allow mounting of the blind nuts. Then I glue the ply to the bottom of the fuselage and after the glue has set use a small bit and drill through the blind nuts to allow the small bolts to thread in past the blind nuts and into the fuselage. Never had a problem with this set up. BTW, my field is rough grass so I always use the stiffer spring that is supplied for the steering.
I cut a flat piece of aircraft ply the shape of the white plastic and just thick enough to allow mounting of the blind nuts. Then I glue the ply to the bottom of the fuselage and after the glue has set use a small bit and drill through the blind nuts to allow the small bolts to thread in past the blind nuts and into the fuselage. Never had a problem with this set up. BTW, my field is rough grass so I always use the stiffer spring that is supplied for the steering.



