What is this Black ring like thing around the high-end needle ? It is removable and just slides in. Is it for holding the needle adjustment in place? What if i dont use it? I removed it to remove my engine since it was hitting the wood, When I put it back I dunno how tight the bent S shaped part be...

Also parts of my plane's wooden engine area are reddish /pink in color. Is the wood reacting with fuel...? not sure if it was when I bought it..also at that time everything was new to me(still is LOL)

Pls advise...thanks
-747

That part is there to put tension on the needle valve. If you don't use it your needle valve is going to rotate from the vibration of the engine running. When it moves your mixture setting is going to change and your engine will more than likely die in flight.

Ken

It looks like the spring clip that is designed to hold the needle valve in place. Yours appears to be bent as it is supposed to be resting on the top of the needle valve. I am thinking that it would be best to keep it in place. Good Luck, Dave

The ratchetting spring is indeed bent over about ninety degrees as if the engine has been set down on a table with the needle valve removed.

Hard to tell from the picture but it appears you are in fact missing the needle valve.

John

Hmmm Lets see , Broken engine mount. Is the needle broke off ? or am I seeing it wrong . Looks like the needle is missing or snaped off .

the needle is definatly missing,be carefull when you put the needle back in your engine looks like there is alot of wood dust that stuff can clog the needle area up.
those little buggers(the clickers my LHS calls em) snap off all the time there about 2$ so its no big deal the metal is so thin it doesn't take much.
denatured alcohol will clean the engine area and thinned epoxy,or fuel proof dope works for protecting the wood from fuel soaking into it.

Lock washers, self locking nuts and jam nuts? Weren't taking any chances on that screw coming loose were you?

Yes gentlemen, the needle is off. I just finished making steel mounts. Just that I dont know how bent the black spring should be. Can I leave it the way it is in the Pic? since it looks like its in right angles to the needle axis-looks pretty tight!

Can I use drug store CVS isopropyl alcohol (98% I think )to clean engines? If so can I clean the holes etc and how to reach the holes?

What is fuel proofing dope?

When attaching fuel tubes to lines, do you snug them tight or use epoxy/ca to hold em?

The black spring is bent too far.

You'd be better off using denatured alcohol from Home Depot or another similar source. Isopropyl has a LOT of water in it which will promote rusting. Either way it should be thoroughly dried and lubed after. After-run oil or Air-tool oil would be good.

Any dope would be fuel proofing dope.

Just seat the fuel lines in place and use the correct sizes of line and tubing. No glues/sealers needed.

You want the ratchet spring to apply just enough pressure to the needle valve to keep it from rotating. If it's bent slightly towards the center of the needle holder, and you have to push it out of the way when you install the needle, it should be OK.

How do I clean engine parts with denatured alcohol?[ I just got some Den.Alc from HD]. Do I use a cloth? I just clean the external parts right- like the nozzles, Needle etc? I dont have to pour some in the piston chamber, carburettror etc? I know it sounds crazy but i'd rather ask!!

My socket screw says size 6-32, 3/4". What do these numbers denote and is this SAE?

Where can I get a long socket /hex head screw driver for this size?

747 I use a spray bottle the kind you get at the hardware store or that comes with cleaners like 409 they give a good spray jet.
if I get dirt in my carb or needle area I will hold the engine upside down so the alcohol runs out when clean,or dirt free I will oil it with 3in 1 oil or air tool oil to prevent corosion a few drops is all it takes,if you don't have any WD-40 will be OK for a temp lube to resist moisture.for long term storage a good after run oil is recomended.

here's a good description of what the sizes mean. that part you are looking for is toward the bottom of the page.

[link=http://www.instockfasteners.com/TOOLS/sizes.ASP]screw sizes[/link]

that is a #6 screw (.138) with 32 threads per inch. you should be able to buy the socket anywhere that sells tools. home depot or any hardware store. auto parts stores may carry them as well. yes it is SAE not metric.

You can scrub it with an old tooth brush (don't brush with it again[:'(]). this will get the debris out of a lot of the nooks & crannies. Keep your thumb over the carb and keep the ALC out of the eng if you can. If you need to clean the carb, turn the engine over and THEN remove it. Hopefully no debris will get in the engine this way. Flush the carb out good and pump a little fuel through it. Always hold the engine in a manner where the debris will not try to fall into the openings when it comes loose.

Where can I get extended Allen screwdrivers for RC sizes in SAE?

I bought a idle bar plug from KB-RC. Has anyone used KB plugs? Are they good for the idle bar type? How are they compared to OS plugs?

For an inverted engine, has anyone tried Onboard Glow Plug Driver:
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/
Is it easy to install /use?

I fly a rascal40 with 46fx...thanks!

a good place to pick up a set of those "T" handle wrenches is, Kragen auto parts,or home depot they are all about the same price,without having to wait for shipping.

I just installed the engine to the plane and used Loctite242blue for the screws going into T-nuts. It says loctite cures in 20 mins but needs 24 hrs for strength....Is it true I thought I can fly sunday morning! Pls advise.

For an inverted engine, has anyone tried Onboard Glow Plug Driver:
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/
Is it easy to install /use? is it worth it?

I fly a rascal40 with 46fx inverted thats why

Also, I stored the engine last winter adding wd40 in it instead of After-run-oil. Now it looks good. Would that wd40 have done any harm?
I havent started the engine yet...I will in 2 days!


...thanks!
kris (747)

most of the time I don't use any oil at all so far all my OS engines are fine,I have 7 OS engines and I also live 3 blocks from the Ocean.
when I store a engine I will use 3in1 oil and plastic bag it to keep it clean but have used WD40 and it is also a fine moisture barrior,the can says it protects from moisture and prevents rust thats what the after run oils are suposed to do is all.

As far as the little thing that keeps tension on your needle valve.....

In a pinch, you can use a piece of fuel tubing to keep your needle set. (I say in a pinch....) I've been using a piece a fuel tubing on one of my beloved 46FX engines for a couple of years in place of the little black piece. All you have to do is take the needle valve off and shove a piece of fuel tubing about 3/4" long completely over the threads that the needle valve screws into. You then screw the needle valve into the carb body going through the tubing. You'll want the tubing to almost come to the end the needle. When done correctly, You'll actually be twisting on tubing if your needle needs adjusting.