Fixing Avistar Horizontal Stab
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
I haven't been flying for a while and accidentally broke my plane's horizontal stabilizer when I stepped on it in a drunken stupor.
I can order the new tail kit from a local hobby shop and I'm just wondering what the best way to fix it would be? Right now I'm thinking of sawing off the old one, hollowing out where it passes through the fuselage and epoxying the new one in. Any other ideas? Can't wait to get back out flying!
I can order the new tail kit from a local hobby shop and I'm just wondering what the best way to fix it would be? Right now I'm thinking of sawing off the old one, hollowing out where it passes through the fuselage and epoxying the new one in. Any other ideas? Can't wait to get back out flying!
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
I stepped in the center of the right side of the stabilizer so about halfway down it is turned up about 20 degrees. It crunched pretty good at the time. I can take a pic of it but probably not until tomorrow as I'm going to the Astros game tonight. I don't think it's that bad but I have no experience building except for this one ARF so I'm a bit scared of trying to repair it myself.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , PA
It sounds like it's repairable. I've been using my trainer as a sort of dare devil plane, and i cracked my horizontal stab the way you described. I simply used some six minute epoxy to glue it together. Just use some packing tape on the torn covering. You'd be suprised how much abuse a plane can take and still fly.
#6
ORIGINAL: ScienceisCool
I don't even think the covering tore, just crunched the balsa underneath.
I don't even think the covering tore, just crunched the balsa underneath.
#7
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
ORIGINAL: Nathan King
That's very repairable. The Avistar has a built up horizontal stabilizer. Remove the covering 1/2" past either side of the break and take a picture. I'd bet you could totally repair it in two consecutive evenings. Balsa, being very soft, is an extremely easy wood to work with and requires very little experience to get a good repair. It's forgiving!
ORIGINAL: ScienceisCool
I don't even think the covering tore, just crunched the balsa underneath.
I don't even think the covering tore, just crunched the balsa underneath.
Ken
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
Hey Bruce, yeah, been some time since I've been out so I've got the itch. Already told the wife to inform the bank. 
I'll get some pics in the next day or so when I have a bit of time.

I'll get some pics in the next day or so when I have a bit of time.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
Ok, here are the pics of the broken stabilizer. While moving the plane around I realized the vertical stabilizer is broken at the bottom too. It looks like I could probably smear some CA glue or epoxy in there and have that done pretty easy. What should I do about the horizontal stab?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#11
The damage is minor. Exactly as you said about the vertical stab, bend the stab back and place some glue between the cracked sections. Get some straight pieces of balsa and clamp the stab to it to make sure it's flat and straight. Recover with monokote and some trim sheets.
I agree with Ken, fixing it is easier than replacing it.
Make it straight and correct. The avistar's a nice flying plane.
Jim
I agree with Ken, fixing it is easier than replacing it.
Make it straight and correct. The avistar's a nice flying plane.
Jim
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
How big for the tri-angle stock at the base of the vert? I'm not an experienced builder so bear with me. Also, what do I do about the Horizontal Stab?
#14

3/8 or 1/2 inch triangle would probably be fine. If the stab is still tight in the fuse it won't need bracing. For the broken area of stab see if you can relocate the pieces in a straight order and a little CA should hold. Think about putting doubles on anything that functions like a spar though. The entire elevator may need replacing. Just cut old CA hinges (if used) and re-slot for new ones near the old ones. Do NOT reuse old locations.
#16

ORIGINAL: a65l
Not to interfere with all the good advice going on here vis-a-vis the repair and all, but the Avistar's horizontal stab and vert are bolted in place.... unless you glued them, you can get replacement pieces and bolt them back into place....
A
Not to interfere with all the good advice going on here vis-a-vis the repair and all, but the Avistar's horizontal stab and vert are bolted in place.... unless you glued them, you can get replacement pieces and bolt them back into place....
A
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
This is the ARF model where the tail parts are epoxied in place.
Any suggestions on how to brace the spars for the horizontal part? I can just put a flat peice on top and bottom but it would stick up from the rest of it, like a bump.
Any suggestions on how to brace the spars for the horizontal part? I can just put a flat peice on top and bottom but it would stick up from the rest of it, like a bump.
#18
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
Scienceiscool,
Looking at your pictures I don't think the repair is going to be all that difficult. Since the wood never separated from itself at the break you can probably just glue it all back together. While keeping the two pieces together straighten out the horizontal stab and the elevator. Once you have it straight push the two halves together as tightly as you can. Now you need to get it straight while gluing it, clamp a straight piece of wood to the top, or bottom, of the horizontal stab while you apply glue. Place the wood away from the area you are gluing. With the stab straight wick thin CA into the breaks and let it set. Continue this on all the break areas. Once it's set you should be fine. Recover the stab and it will be plenty strong enough to fly. Heck, I've had worse hangar rash (damaged caused in the shop or hangar) that I've fixed in the same manner as what I just described.
Ken
Looking at your pictures I don't think the repair is going to be all that difficult. Since the wood never separated from itself at the break you can probably just glue it all back together. While keeping the two pieces together straighten out the horizontal stab and the elevator. Once you have it straight push the two halves together as tightly as you can. Now you need to get it straight while gluing it, clamp a straight piece of wood to the top, or bottom, of the horizontal stab while you apply glue. Place the wood away from the area you are gluing. With the stab straight wick thin CA into the breaks and let it set. Continue this on all the break areas. Once it's set you should be fine. Recover the stab and it will be plenty strong enough to fly. Heck, I've had worse hangar rash (damaged caused in the shop or hangar) that I've fixed in the same manner as what I just described.
Ken
#20
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
If you use a doubler, place it on the front/rear surfaces and NOT on the top/bottom.
If you use a doubler, place it on the front/rear surfaces and NOT on the top/bottom.
#21

ORIGINAL: Nathan King
Doublers can be useful in the right situation, but I try not to use them as they add quite a bit of weight. You can either do as Ken suggested or cut out the damaged spots at a sharp angle and replace. Using a heavily angled cut will eliminate the need for a doubler since there is more surface area to glue to. Yes, it's strong. I did this with my Joker (old pattern aircraft) wing and can still do snaps on downlines, outside loops, figure 'M''s, etc without it breaking. Do yourself a favor and use wood glue.
ORIGINAL: bruce88123
If you use a doubler, place it on the front/rear surfaces and NOT on the top/bottom.
If you use a doubler, place it on the front/rear surfaces and NOT on the top/bottom.
#22

#23
#24
Thread Starter
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston,
TX
I don't think I have the right tools to make a scarf joint so I'm going to try bending it back into place and using thin CA to hold it. I just have to run by the hobby shop and get some straight peices for bracing and some clamps. Then have to convince the wife to let me buy some monokote and an iron. Is there any other way to recover it without resorting to that?
#25
No. Do it right with some monokote. You can use a full size iron in a pinch, but the covering irons are only $20. You could be back up in the air for under $40.



