I have been looking for a reasonably priced second plane and just found an older Sig Something Special for a steal of a price. It is older and will need work. How will it do as a second plane? Will have a few weeks of work before it can fly and I plan on flying the wings off my trainer during that time.

Gary

I had a good laugh when I read this one. Roo Man, perhaps you're talking about the Sig Somethin' Extra. I think it would make a great second plane as long as you have mastered your trainer because the SSE is much less forgiving. You can snap this one around as you please so it will make a great aerobatic sport plane.

I thought Sig had taken that so necessary step onto the distillery business.

Thanks!

Our field is all grass but it's still very nice. The guys in the club keep it mowed very well.
Here's an picture of it from the air.

The Sig Something Extra is a great sport plane, and yes I have seen one guy go from his trainer to a SSE without any trouble. He was an exclent pilot and learned fast with the help of a simulator. Less skilled pilots I would push them towards the Sig 4 Stars, Hanger 9 Pulse XT's and Goldberg Tigers. That being said, be honest with yourself and select wisely. Also concider the cost of this presumably used aircraft and maybey just give it a try... I do reccomend you have an experienced pilot buddy box you for the first flight or two with your second plane because your nerves will crash you faster than your lack of skill.

Roo Man,
If you are referring to the Sig Somethin Extra I would highly recommend that you forget about this plane as a second plane. I have had 3 of these planes and I will admit that they are among some of my favorite planes. They are a total blast to fly. But they are in no way suitable for somebody coming off of a trainer. This plane is a very maneuverable plane that will do a lot of things and do them quickly. It's not for somebody coming off of a trainer. Maybe as a 3rd or 4th plane, but definitely not for a second plane.

Ken

LOL.... my second plane was an Extra Special.

There's nothing wrong with getting the SE as second model.
It dosn't have any bad tendency. It's design to fly at a lower speed and be toss around.
That's what dual rates are for.

Just use the same procedure as you did with your trainer.
I seldom fly a new model on it's maiden flight to begin with anyway.
My instructor love's me. Me breaks in all my models. Put it through the pace,
2-3 more flights depending on adjustments require to dial the model in.


Just fly that thing at 2-3 mistake high until you get comfortiable with the model or any model.
Have someone stand next to you incase you make mistakes...but at 2-3 mistakes high ?

Most of time I crash my models is taking changes and showing off at lower altitude.

The SE lands like a kitten on low rates.

It'll be easier to tail drag off of grass anyway.
If you're not use to tail dragging..just take the wing off and practice taxing or punch it for take off less wing.

Havng said that..I've had more than hundreds of flight just decicate to landing proceedure, dead sticks, touch and go, or proceedure turns.
mmm...also trying to froce my trainer into a flat spin too or a water fall as trun around, inverted 5' off of the deck.lol
I'm somewhere between free style and a pattern flyer.
As I said most of my crashed comes from showing off, bascially doing maneuvers that wasn't thought out.

it depends what type of flying you have been doing on your trainer.

Thanks for all the input. Since I have already committed to buy, [$50.00 complete less receiver], I think I will give it a try. Probably will try it with low rates on a buddy cord the first few flights.

Gary

$50 less Rx
man..you're going to toss that thing around like a bad step child , simply becuase it was only$50 and you didn't built it.

It is high recommend that you do second or third preflight inspections or radio check before all take offs.
I've been know to connect the wings Y harness backwards. Keep the guys from talking to ya when you're
hooking up the wings.

I also use tie warps instead of rubber bands. You can get bundles of tie wraps at the $ .99 store
Don't worry too much about the minor graps between the wing and fusleage. As long as the wing is secure it'll be fine.

$50!!! Awsome deal. The engine is likely woth that much. What engine does it have? Set up some low rates and go for it. You could not build a SPAD less receiver for $50. So, when do we get pictures of your new plane?

Don't know wht engine, picking it up Sunday, will update then.

Gary

If any of you have the instructions for this bird, I sure would appreciate the following information:
CG
Aileron settings, low and high
Elevator settings, low and high
rudder settings, low and high

Many of the plane manufacturers have their instructions available on line at no charge, could not find for SIG except on their price list at $7.50.


Thanks,

Gary

Just got the Something Extra yesterday. Dosent't look too bad for $50.00, it's complete except for a receiver.

The engine is an OS 46 don't know the model.

Have some questions:
The engine appears to be angled to the left instead of to the right as my other planes are, is there a reasone for this?
Is there anyone that knows the control surface settings for both low and high rates?

Gary

Hi
control surface travel chart
surface low rate high rate
elevator 1-1/4" up and down 2" up and down
ailerons 1" up and down 2" up and down
rudder 1-7/8" left and right 2-1/4" left and right

Hope this helps, it's a great plane. Just get very comfortable with low rates before you even think about high rates, as there is a big difference. High rates will get you into trouble really quick if you are not ready for it.
Not sure about the thrust angle is it built from a kit or an ARF, if an ARF then should be right, could be wrong if built from a kit. Think mine has some right thrust (not sure would have to check) and it was from a kit. OK have checked the kit instructions and the firewall is glued in at 90deg to the fuse side so i am assuming there is no thrust built in to the kit.
Andrew

burnie1,

Thanks for the rates. Is it possible that the cant pf the engine is done using washers under the motor mount?

Gary

Hi
Yes it is possible to adjust thrust using the washer method, you need to check to see if there has been any washers added. Don't know why you would need left thrust, none of my planes have that, some have a little right, some have none. I would pull any washers that are there out and fly it, then you can decide for yourself what it needs. Do a little searching and you will find out what manouvers to fly to see if you need to add thrust. Generally if the plane climbs a lot under full power it may need some down thrust and if you fly straight up with full power and it pulls to the left then you may need to add some right thrust.
Hope this helps
Andrew

What a great deal! Have fun! I'm jealous!

u stole it...for $50 with an OS .46.
He bascailly gave it you.

It's an older late 80 early 90 OS. Pre LA
It should say on the side if it's FP or FS.
It'll still have plenty of power either way. wheather it's ball bearings or not.
If you don't think there's enough...just remove baffle.lol

I don't recalled it having anytype of RT. I wouldn't find my plane or book.
yeah keep it on low or remember to flick it back to low before you land.

control surface travel chart
surface low rate high rate
elevator 1-1/4" up and down 2" up and down
ailerons 1" up and down 2" up and down
rudder 1-7/8" left and right 2-1/4" left and right

burnie1 gave me the above high and low rate settings. What would happen if I used 1/2 the low rates for initial flying?

Gary

No... don't alter from the plan. Use the buddie cord for 2-3 flights.
Fly it at 2-3 mistakes high. Then fly it at half throttle so you know how it behaves at slower speed.
Then just do landing precedures at 2-3 mistakes high and bring it lower as you get more comfortable.
You'll get use to it faster than you think. You're not to crahes it at 2-3 mistake high.
If you get in trouble just slow down.

Even if you do goof at a lower altitude, you probably not going to crash it, if it was trainer.
Sometimes trainers crash becuase they don't roll right side up fast enough.

flyx,

Thanks

Gary

Started working on the SIG last night, am having to realign the engine as it is canted to the left. First thing I broke 2 of the motor mount attach screws, it appears they were installed with non-removable locktite. Also can't get the fuel tank out [want to make sure that it is not contamiated] probably will have to take a section out of the covering either on the top or bottom of plane, which would be better?

Also, would using Expo make it easier [less sensative on controls] to fly for a relativly new pilot?

Gary

Okay.. that can be a pain..but not bad.
Can you remove the mount by cutting the screw's head off then use plier or a smaller pair of vice grip to get
the screws out.

I'd go with bottom. it's only balsa. Simply becuase it'll look better and the color of white covering is not
as noctible when the color don't match.
Do a good job. when you cut. There's boublers on the sides. Sand it flush later. Make a hatch cover accordingly.
Apply CA to conners to make the wood hard.
Then use lite ply for the conners for the hatch mount on to. Apply CA for the threads.

If you decide to mount the battery pack. In the fuel tank compartment. I suggest making sometype backet or brace so you
can hook rubber bands or tie wraps to prevent the pack from falling.
Or mount the battery on top of the tank
Shove alot of soft foam for a snug fit. Just incase the the hatch comes loose.
Or just CA the threads of the screws , it'll break loose.

Or don't do donuts just for kicks and inspect your model before EVERY FLIGHT.

It won't matter if it's on top or bottom. If the hatch comes loose, you'll just loose it when the model is inverted.lol
Guess how i lost my SE ?

flyx

Thanks for the input. I cut the bottom out just behind the firewall and was able to get the fuel tank out [it looks clean as a whistle] will rince with new fuel and re-install. The firewall is 90 degrees to the fuse. The cant to the left was caused by the instalation of the engine on the mounts. Was able to get one mount out and am working on the other. Will get new onw piece motor mount which should be easier to install. Will make hatch attached with screws to replace the removed bottom section as you suggested.
You mentioned placing the battery under the fuel tank, would that put the CG where it belongs? I plan on putting the receiver on the servo mount with velcro using the slots provided.
Did you have any roblems with wing fit? My starboard wing is very tight going on and has about a 1/16" gap between wing and fuse, can get it all the way but it is a struggle, can't seem to find where it is binding, took the alum tube out and it goes in all the way with no resistance at all.
Any input on using Expo to improve handling for a rookie?
Thanks again,

Gary

I read on another thread, you can just hammer the bind nuts out if you cut the head of the screws.
Since you removed the tank that shouldn't be a problem.

I sheeted the rear deck, extended the rudder and , and install a semi scale scale tail wheel assembly on mine.
By putting the battery pack in the fuel tank compartment I didn't have to add lead to the nose to keep it balance.
I wish I can find the plans to give you the CG.
Don't put the pack in the tank area just becuase i did.

You can try cutting the metal tube a little bit. The tube bottoms out. Spray spam to give it a little lube.
The gap on mine was from the inner or the root ribs not being perfectly even.
It didn't effect the model flying character.

You can dial out/in the throw, If it's still too much for you on low rate...I love PC TX.lol
That's why i recommended you still use a buddy chord or have an instructor next to you.
This way you'll have a general idea how the model flies then adjust the throw accordlingly.
The recomemded low rates was still a bit much for me . My model was a bit nibble becuase I set my CG farther back.
I lowered it a little bit at a time after each test flight to dial in the model.

Than again...I added more airleron or max it out ...as far as my servo will let me on the High rates.