Just want to buy all parts for a 4*-40 ARF. I will be using Futaba 3004 servos (likely from a 7C-2.4GHZ package).

My question: For the servos on the throttle, what type of servo arm hardware should I be using.

I would not have even asked but I notice on my trainer the throttle has a different type of connection to the servo arm..it looks like a vertical metal screw with an eyelet where the arm goes through....very different from plastic links for the other servos.

Also, do I need servo mounting screws too?

Tower web links would be great too! Thanks.

These http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXE114&P=K make for good attachments of servo pushrods/cables at servo end if used properly.

Standard servo mounting screws should be used along with the grommets and brass eyelets. These screws can be had from a variety of places like http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFRM2&P=ML The grommets and eyelets come with the servos but if lost find what you need here http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SERVO+hardware

I use these for throttle linkages http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK098&P=0 which I think you are talking about.

Much easier to adjust but I only use on the throttle, I do not use these on other control surfaces. Some folks do, but I prefer the snap clevis for control surfaces.

The servos should come with mounting screws and an assortment of arms, I use the 6 arm one on most of my throttle hookups and I cut off the arms I am not using.
The ARF should come with all of the linkages, connectors and clevis' that you will need. Some ARFs come with all plastic clevis', I replace all of them with "Dubro Safety Lock Kwik-Link" they are a plastic clevis but with a metal pin and keeper.I still use the kit supplied plastic clevis on the throttle.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWH32&P=7

OK...while I am full of questions....this is SIG 4*40 ARF....

I read the instruction (twice) before even unpacking.
The first thing the instructions have you do is place the CA hinges and start to glue them in.

However, when I unpack, it looks like the ailerons are already assembled into the wing. I gave a "light" pull and they did not seem to pull apart but I am wondering if I need to pull them apart and then glue? or are the instructions out-of-date and they now glue them in at the factory?

Also, when I manually push and pull the aileron control rod, it will move only one way...it can push the aileron up but almost no downward movement as the rod seems to hit some wood on the wing (as if the hole the rod stick through is too small or wrong shape).

Thanks for the pointer...I know an ARF is nothing like a kit build but this is a beginner forum..

OK. Thanks for the links...but I did notice one was for 4-40 and another for 2-56. A quick check in the kit shows they are 3.2mm nylon push rods with 2mm screw stubs which thread into the push rods. I found 2mm safety clevis but nothing for the throttle arm mount...can I use 2-56 instead?.

While we are at it, pros/cons of nylon push rods versus metal? (I know I am opening this up for a ton of different opinions...remember NEWBIE...so no need for the "best" or "fail-safe" solution here...just a nice comment like they should work fine or switch to metal with TH link to best solution...)

Thanks.

4-40? Are you referring to http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK098&P=0 which has 4-40 screws? Or http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXE114&P=K which although not stated also has 4-40 screws? This is not a factor as the screw simply clams the wire tightly. Both fit 2-56 wire pushrods. The 3.2mm wire is just slightly bigger than a 2-56 wire and MIGHT require you to drill the fittling slightly larger, not a big deal.

Thanks Bruce...I was editing while you were replying.

Yes, I was referring to this [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK098&P=0]connector[/link] but also found this one from Dubro as 2-56 [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001603520&I=LXD925&P=K]Dubro connector[/link] which I assume would be good for 2mm threaded stub which is screwed into the nylon 3.2mm rod.....

The reason I like the one I listed in my post #2 above is because it uses an allen wrench to tighten it. No slipping screwdrivers and damage to the plane. Smaller package sizes are available too if desired. Also remember the more "gadgets" you connect together the more possible failure points you create and it may also influence the installation. Keep it as simple as you can.

metal vs nylon vs carbon fiber pushrods all have their advantages and disadvantages. It also varies from plane to plane and installation to installation in the same plane type. Important part is to minimize drag and flex. Keep it simple and secure both ends well to the servo/control. You will develop your own preferences over time due to both convenience, recommendations, cost and simplicity. A basic trainer doesn't need top of the line stuff but a 2 meter pattern plane does.

So Bruce, sticking to 2-56 but adding in Hex would be this one? [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD929&P=0]connector[/link]

So how about the aileron question anyone?

Yeah, those will do. Use the metal retainers for flight. The plastic ones IMO don't hold as well but can be used during setup until you figure out exactly which servo arm hole you are going to use.

Ailerons? I assume you are talking about the hinges. Give them a fairly firm pull and if them don't pull out they should be OK. It's not uncommon for manuals to be outdated by production. They probably printed a 1000 manuals and then changed production methods. No sense throwing out a manual over a small item although they COULD have included an update flyer fairly easily.

assuming they do need to be glued, I am surprised a few drops of CA is sufficient? Why wouldntt you want to glue the one half tab firmly into place in the wing (without aileron in place) such that you could really add enough glue to the tab and inside the insert point? Then add glue to other side and assemble? Just dropping CA in the middle is sufficient?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...?article_id=55

Not only is adding a few drops to the middle on each side sufficient, it is the ONLY way to assemble CA hinges.
The hinge is designed with a material that allows thin CA to wick into it. If you try to assemble one side at a time the CA will wick throughout the entire hinge and will be useless for the side you didn't assemble yet. Basically you would have ruined the hinge and have to start all over, which would require cutting new hinge slots.
PS: some people prefer to pin their hinges after assembly by drilling a hole and gluing a pin (dowl or even tootpick) on each end of the hinge. I don't and have never had a hinge fail.

If you have any questions about installing CA hinges spend some time reading Minnflyer's how-to on them. That should answer all of your questions about installing them.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=55]CA Hinges How-to[/link]

Ken

Since I did not see anyone address the question of aileron not moving well in both directions I'll do so. As you think it is probably due to insufficient clearance of the hole that aileron link goes thru. Just open it up some that will take care of that. You want all your control surfaces to move freely and easily to prevent excess servo draw. Also without any slop.

Thanks guys. I think I am all set on what bits-and-bobs to order...I can't wait to start assembling with my son (xmas day)

Just don't rush it like happens to many things on XMAS. Not like you are going to run out and fly it that day. I hope.

hmmm....maybe some snow ski's on the wheels....hmmm....