I ordered an FA-82 which shows a shaft diameter of 7mm.
I already have new APC 13x8 props in hand which are tapered from .25" to just over .30" by measurement.
7mm is about .28" as I make it.
So do I need a prop reamer?
I suppose one would be handy to have.
I don't remember doing all this 30 years ago. Maybe I did and don't remember?</p>

They are mighty handy to have, a lot of props wont fit out of the box and its the best way to keep everything centered. I know some guys just use a drill but I have seen them end up tossing props because of it too.

Yes that's what I am thinking.
Getting back into this many recommended the APC products and they look very good.
But I think I am going to order a reamer just to have in the box down the road.
It's just money!

APC make some really great props they don't flex much and are really efficient. That being said they do not handle strikes well. MAS props are a lot tougher and better to get started with. I use APC most of the time but recommend grabbing a couple MAS for the learning curve first but that just me.

Either way, paint the tips with white or yellow paint, APC props are very very hard to see when spinning and make great Ginsu knives when not respected. Painting tips helps you see the arc.

Good tips, thanks.

Trying to put a .28 shaft through a .25 hole will be a pain so the reamer is one of the easiest and best ways to make it easy.

My Fox reamer http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/w...I=FOXQ1520&P=7 seems to be sharper than the GP version my brother bought.

A lot of engines have 1/4" shafts so it's very possible that you didn't need to ream your props 30 years ago.

The APC props are tapered from just over .30" to .25".
You missed that in the first post.

No, I saw exactly what you wrote. The smallest part of the hole is .25 and a .28 shaft will not fit through a .25 hole.

Got it!
I think I need some more coffee this AM!

The main bore in the smaller AP props is 1/4", 0.250. Trying to push a 0.280 shaft through it will require a strong arbor press. That is a 0.030" press and there is no way to push 7mm shaft through it with out damage to the shaft and absolutely the prop. There are no tapered holes in a new prop, There may be stepped ones, but not tapered.

The prop reamers are the only way to go.Assuming that the center hole is straight to the back of the prop, the reamer will keep the hole centered and square. Iuse a drill press and lock the prop down to the platform and ream it. Be very careful that the prop can't spin. Hand reaming is best done from the back of the prop. After the right size has cleared the prop, I then continue to the next size to clean the edge of the hole, Just enough to clear the burs out. Do this from both sides. If you don't, the cones in your porp balancer will not center properly in the hole.

Don

I have a reamer its handy but not necessary, if you have a drill press then you could drill the hole closer to the exact dia. of the engine shaft, using a regular drill is a crap shoot its really easy to oval out the hole and the prop is done.

I am not overly nutty about checking balance,some guys are real OCD about it, but after opening up the hole its a good idea to check the prop balance,the larger the prop the more it makes a difference, just to make sure its not way out of tru

The best reason to have a reamer is when you are at the field and break a prop just ream another. You won't have a drill there.

Shaggy

At the hobby shop you can get a step reamer which will ream to most of the useful hole sizes. You local hardware store will have a tapered reamer which will do the same job if you alternate reaming from front and back of the prop. I have both kinds and find both useful.

I have several prop reamers in my field box. I usually have a bunch of assorted props with me and I leave the holes stock so that they can be used on anything that comes along.

One trick to pass along, Hold the reamer stationary while turning the prop, the hole will be straighter this way.

yes,yes,yes every one should have a reamer in their toolbox if they don`t have one already.it`s a priceless tool for the rc pilot!.

Haveingone when you need it just makes for smiles, having one when someone needs it just makes friends.
Tools like this and other things such as starters, field boxes and the like can be had cheap on feebay... and here in the for sale area. Watch for rc "lots". Often clubs will have this stuff used as well.

Of course it will. Get a bigger hammer!

You might want to get the Metric reamer?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXG941&P=ML


The SAE reamer goes fron 1/4" to 5/16" so you'll go from too small to too big...


Or maybe get both?

My Fox reamers are definitely sharper than the G. P.

Heck no you don't need no stinkin prop reamer.... all you need is to know me... everyone borrows mine...

Guess they quit making them, cause nobody seems to have one except me. In my book, they are very important. I never drill props.... and I have both an expensive drill press and a milling machine... drills are not reamers... but you can bring your oblong wobbling prop to the shop and we will use a lathe to machine a proper hole and then sleeve it for you..

Cost of prop $65... cost to fix hole $50, cost of sleeve $10.... look on owner's face.... priceless.

Agree with all.

Also, pick up a prop balancer while you're at it. At least for me - once I started using balanced props - I stopped having dead-sticks. Those "in the know" at the field said that the unbalanced props might have been contributing to excessive fuel foaming in the tank. I fly mostly 40-sized nitro cheapy planes...

r/s... Roger

I have 3 in my box, 1 metric, 1 SAE, and one metric for my larger Saito motors