Sig Kadet LT .25
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
I have used the search function to death and really haven't found much info on this plane over the last couple of years and it seems to be a hard kit to find. But I finally have one on the way. I have an O.S. FS-30S that I plan to put on it, but I'm a little worried about it being underpowered. I have done the trainer route and have since moved on to 4*s etc and honestly, I prefere a high winged plane and a lower pulse rate.
Any suggestions on building this kit lighter or making sure the engine has enough power to not run off the end of the runway would be appreciated.
10x6 with 15% is what I'm thinking.

Any suggestions on building this kit lighter or making sure the engine has enough power to not run off the end of the runway would be appreciated.
10x6 with 15% is what I'm thinking.
#7

My Feedback: (7)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ihave an LT25 that Ibuilt and Icant say Ihavent been less than 100% happy with it. Iused an OS LA .40 in it so that Iwould have enough oomph to pull out of something hairy close to the ground but Iam sure that something less will certainly fly it without any problems. I used a Nickel Metal battery at 1500Mah and standard Hitec servos and even with the reinforcing of the bulkhead in front of the wing and the tailwheel area it still weighs around 5lbs and a few ounces with fuel. Iwould suggest the reinforcements if you have a rough field since mine has survived a few trips into the brambles with nothing more than some popped covering. You are going to be SOhappy with this plane, it's so forgiving and you can land it like a butterfly with sore feet! Good luck on the build but you wont need it, Sig includes a wonderful manual with that build!
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Please do a build thread. The plane does look like it is too much for a 30 four stroke but when you compare it with an LT-40 you will see it is made very light weight
Please do a build thread. The plane does look like it is too much for a 30 four stroke but when you compare it with an LT-40 you will see it is made very light weight
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
ORIGINAL: jeffie8696
Using a modern receiver battery that is light would be a good move also the throttle servo need not be full size.
Using a modern receiver battery that is light would be a good move also the throttle servo need not be full size.
Thanks
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
ORIGINAL: Mk23socom
I have an LT 25 that I built and I cant say I havent been less than 100% happy with it. I used an OS LA .40 in it so that I would have enough oomph to pull out of something hairy close to the ground but I am sure that something less will certainly fly it without any problems. I used a Nickel Metal battery at 1500Mah and standard Hitec servos and even with the reinforcing of the bulkhead in front of the wing and the tailwheel area it still weighs around 5lbs and a few ounces with fuel. I would suggest the reinforcements if you have a rough field since mine has survived a few trips into the brambles with nothing more than some popped covering. You are going to be SO happy with this plane, it's so forgiving and you can land it like a butterfly with sore feet! Good luck on the build but you wont need it, Sig includes a wonderful manual with that build!
I have an LT 25 that I built and I cant say I havent been less than 100% happy with it. I used an OS LA .40 in it so that I would have enough oomph to pull out of something hairy close to the ground but I am sure that something less will certainly fly it without any problems. I used a Nickel Metal battery at 1500Mah and standard Hitec servos and even with the reinforcing of the bulkhead in front of the wing and the tailwheel area it still weighs around 5lbs and a few ounces with fuel. I would suggest the reinforcements if you have a rough field since mine has survived a few trips into the brambles with nothing more than some popped covering. You are going to be SO happy with this plane, it's so forgiving and you can land it like a butterfly with sore feet! Good luck on the build but you wont need it, Sig includes a wonderful manual with that build!
#11

My Feedback: (7)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Honestly Gary, Icouldnt tell ya exactly. I know I reinforced the two areas that i mentioned earlier and after some thought, I recall doubling some plywood for the landing gear and some spots inside the fuse that looked spindly to me. The .46 wieghs a bit more than what a .25 would so that accounts for SOMEof the extra weight but I am not sure why it is so "heavy". I can recall my epoxying methods werent very good back then either, perhaps there is a little more than is needed on there somewhere. Truth be told, I'm plum tickled with its weight and Ididnt have to move anything to balance it either! Ican certainly say the thing flies beautifully and Ican set it down and have it stopped inside 10 feet on the runway since she can be flared til he!! wont have it!
my runway is 300ft and have no problems on take off.. how long is yours?
my runway is 300ft and have no problems on take off.. how long is yours?
#12

My Feedback: (10)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Grants Pass,
OR
ORIGINAL: GaryHarris
I have used the search function to death and really haven't found much info on this plane over the last couple of years and it seems to be a hard kit to find. But I finally have one on the way. I have an O.S. FS-30S that I plan to put on it, but I'm a little worried about it being underpowered. I have done the trainer route and have since moved on to 4*s etc and honestly, I prefere a high winged plane and a lower pulse rate.
Any suggestions on building this kit lighter or making sure the engine has enough power to not run off the end of the runway would be appreciated.
10x6 with 15% is what I'm thinking.
I have used the search function to death and really haven't found much info on this plane over the last couple of years and it seems to be a hard kit to find. But I finally have one on the way. I have an O.S. FS-30S that I plan to put on it, but I'm a little worried about it being underpowered. I have done the trainer route and have since moved on to 4*s etc and honestly, I prefere a high winged plane and a lower pulse rate.

Any suggestions on building this kit lighter or making sure the engine has enough power to not run off the end of the runway would be appreciated.
10x6 with 15% is what I'm thinking.
#13

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Cedar Falls,
IA
I have a LT25 that I put home made floats on and am very happy with the plane. It would just get off the water with a Fox 25BB and I switched to an OS 32 for a little more punch. It weighs just over 4-1/2 pounds. With floats it weighs 7 pounds.
I recommend making the wing a bolt-on. The rubber bands are annoying after a while.
Stan
I recommend making the wing a bolt-on. The rubber bands are annoying after a while.
Stan
#15

My Feedback: (10)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Grants Pass,
OR
I went back and looked at my notes from the planes the kids built. Average weight ready to fly without fuel and Thunder Tiger GP 25 engine was 4lbs 4oz. All took a little weight up front to balance 1/4-1/2 ounce. Now we bought the kits in bulk and could assume they were from the same production runs so we may have had a more consistent average weight that way, I don't know really. In any case <font size="2" color="#00265e">w8ye</font> has good advise, stick to the plans.
#16
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 644
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Birmingham, AL
Sig trainers are very light so they tend to look too big for the recommended engines. And they are very well engineered so do not give into the temptation to reinforce everything. Maybe a little 1/8" ply LG brace if you fly a rough field but that is it.
And patience is a virtue. You can save a lot of weight by using white carpenter's glue instead of epoxy. If you use a thin coat and clamp or pin, that stuff dries very strong.
If you must use epoxy to fuel proof something, mix equal parts of slow part A, part B and 90% isopropanol. Then paint on, let it soak in for a few minutes and scrape off. I let it dry and then lightly scrape with a single edged razor blade until it has a sort of even light matte look.
Tom
And patience is a virtue. You can save a lot of weight by using white carpenter's glue instead of epoxy. If you use a thin coat and clamp or pin, that stuff dries very strong.
If you must use epoxy to fuel proof something, mix equal parts of slow part A, part B and 90% isopropanol. Then paint on, let it soak in for a few minutes and scrape off. I let it dry and then lightly scrape with a single edged razor blade until it has a sort of even light matte look.
Tom
#17

My Feedback: (1)
I've got one ready to cover. The only thing about the build I can recommend is to lightly sand off the nubs that hold the parts in the sheet where it was laser cut after you break them out, so the pieces fit together better. This mostly concerns the wing assembly.
Really one of the best kits I have ever built in terms of design, wood, and fit. Since I have put models together for about 50 years, that might be saying something. I'm not too keen on the tailwheel tiller, and the tank should have been placed slightly higher, but overall it is an easy build.
I'm going with a ST.29 with a 10-4 prop to start with.
Really one of the best kits I have ever built in terms of design, wood, and fit. Since I have put models together for about 50 years, that might be saying something. I'm not too keen on the tailwheel tiller, and the tank should have been placed slightly higher, but overall it is an easy build.
I'm going with a ST.29 with a 10-4 prop to start with.
#18
I used to fly a Midwest Aerostar 20 with an O.S. 20 RC, this was the old strap on muffler job back when all they realy had was RC or CL. The guys called it the weed wacker, because it was green and trimmed the grass at the end of the runway on every take-off. I put a new O.S. .25 ABC with bearings and it would almost go vertical. That was a heavy trainer and the newer engines are even better, so prop it right and it should fly great.
#19

I built one that the grandson is learning to fly on. It has a Saito 30 and weights 4lb 5 oz. The Saito powers it well and keeps the speed slow enough for better reaction time and is very quiet making little more noise than some electrics. A friend had one with an OS .32 and it flew twice as fast. The only changes I made were the addition of round pieces of 1/8 lite ply about the size of quarters at the wing dowels and after some flying the screw axles were changed for some better quality screws.
A great plus of the LT-25 is the ease of repairs as it is all balsa and having the full size plans makes it so easy to repair. In fact, I saved the punch out sheets as parts can be marked from them easier than tracing off the plan.
A great plus of the LT-25 is the ease of repairs as it is all balsa and having the full size plans makes it so easy to repair. In fact, I saved the punch out sheets as parts can be marked from them easier than tracing off the plan.
#21
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
ORIGINAL: Mk23socom
Honestly Gary, I couldnt tell ya exactly. I know I reinforced the two areas that i mentioned earlier and after some thought, I recall doubling some plywood for the landing gear and some spots inside the fuse that looked spindly to me. The .46 wieghs a bit more than what a .25 would so that accounts for SOME of the extra weight but I am not sure why it is so ''heavy''. I can recall my epoxying methods werent very good back then either, perhaps there is a little more than is needed on there somewhere. Truth be told, I'm plum tickled with its weight and I didnt have to move anything to balance it either! I can certainly say the thing flies beautifully and I can set it down and have it stopped inside 10 feet on the runway since she can be flared til he!! wont have it!
my runway is 300ft and have no problems on take off.. how long is yours?
Honestly Gary, I couldnt tell ya exactly. I know I reinforced the two areas that i mentioned earlier and after some thought, I recall doubling some plywood for the landing gear and some spots inside the fuse that looked spindly to me. The .46 wieghs a bit more than what a .25 would so that accounts for SOME of the extra weight but I am not sure why it is so ''heavy''. I can recall my epoxying methods werent very good back then either, perhaps there is a little more than is needed on there somewhere. Truth be told, I'm plum tickled with its weight and I didnt have to move anything to balance it either! I can certainly say the thing flies beautifully and I can set it down and have it stopped inside 10 feet on the runway since she can be flared til he!! wont have it!
my runway is 300ft and have no problems on take off.. how long is yours?
I can't tell what if any mods Ill do untill the kit gets here Thursday cept a bolt down wing and dual aileron servos. The way I Figger it the weight of an additional servo, Y harness and extensions is a wash out weight wise over the single servo metal rod chingadero.
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Houston, TX
ORIGINAL: HighPlains
I've got one ready to cover. The only thing about the build I can recommend is to lightly sand off the nubs that hold the parts in the sheet where it was laser cut after you break them out, so the pieces fit together better. This mostly concerns the wing assembly.
Really one of the best kits I have ever built in terms of design, wood, and fit. Since I have put models together for about 50 years, that might be saying something. I'm not too keen on the tailwheel tiller, and the tank should have been placed slightly higher, but overall it is an easy build.
I'm going with a ST.29 with a 10-4 prop to start with.
I've got one ready to cover. The only thing about the build I can recommend is to lightly sand off the nubs that hold the parts in the sheet where it was laser cut after you break them out, so the pieces fit together better. This mostly concerns the wing assembly.
Really one of the best kits I have ever built in terms of design, wood, and fit. Since I have put models together for about 50 years, that might be saying something. I'm not too keen on the tailwheel tiller, and the tank should have been placed slightly higher, but overall it is an easy build.
I'm going with a ST.29 with a 10-4 prop to start with.
And thanks for yalls help guys.
#23
Senior Member
My Feedback: (11)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: gilmer, TX
I have a SIG LT 25 with a 40 size FS on it .IT's one of the best planes that i learned on and I still love to fly it .Just build it as the plans say and you won't have any problems.good luck.
#25

My Feedback: (16)
I used the pull pull tiller on my LT-25 and it was trouble free
But there's no reason you cannot have a pushrod to the rudder and have the tailwheel wire go up through the fuselage into the rudder hinge line and turn 90 degrees into the rudder. I did my LT-40 tail dragger that way and it works great.
But there's no reason you cannot have a pushrod to the rudder and have the tailwheel wire go up through the fuselage into the rudder hinge line and turn 90 degrees into the rudder. I did my LT-40 tail dragger that way and it works great.


