I tested each servo 1 by one, they all reacted the same way. I'm out of town right now, so I can't really try anything else.


I heading to my field this thursday, and my instructor is bringing another receiver, so I guess I'll know what's causing the problem, after that.<br type="_moz" />

Yeah all I can say is try another receiver and battery... that's really all it can be, you'll have a brand new set up with new receiver and battery so all should be fixed whether it's the receiver or the battery causing the problem..

I just checked with my voltmeter, and the receiver is giving off 5.4v.

This is really strange [:@]


I think it's the connection between the TX and RX that's causing the problem now, because the servos no longer respond to stick movement at all.

What kind of radio is it? FM or 2.4 ghz? If its FM, do the crystals match so that it is on the same channel or is it 2.4 ghz does it need to be binded?

Do you have your on/off switch hooked up? if so just take it out and plug the batteryu directly to the rx and see if thats it. I've seen this before.</p>

Same thing if it's plugged in through a switch or directly to the rx.

I've had 3 avistars and still have my last one. I learned on the avistar and it will always be my choice of plane. One thing I found is that the tail fin doesnt mate well to the stabilizer. Here is what I decided to do: use balsa to add thin strips on either side of the tab for the tail fin so that it doubles the mating surface. I used "gorilla glue" for this and it was very solid. Then, I cut just enough away from the top of the fuselage so that I could then get this whole thing in glue it solidly to the horizontal tail surface, inside the fuselage. then I just glued some scrap balsa to fill the holes on either side of the vertical fin and cover with white mono kote. I realize this seems alot for a first ARF but think of it this way, you are learning a new technique and it makes the tail so much stronger. It's a GREAT plane to fly and the approach on landing is magic.

do you have another rx laying around so you could test the servos and battery seperate from this rx?

Can someone give me the GG for the Avistar? OOPS I meant CG location.
I have it ready to fly but I left the instrcutin amnual at work. LOL

Tom

The CG for the Avistar according to the manual states 3 1/4" back from the leading edge. FYI, that manual is available on line from Hobbico.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/hca/hcaa2016-manual.pdf

thanks

I'm moving slowly, but I've gotten to the horizontal stabilizer.

The instructions say to cut off the monocote where the stabilizer will come in contact with the tail. Do I cut off the monocote where the vertical stablizer will come in contact with the horizontal one?

Yeah, just remove the MonoKote that will be within the fuselage sides, top and bottom. You will have to do the same to the vertical stabilizer. The soldering iron trick works great for cutting MonoKote.

Position the stabilizers in the fuse and make sure everything is lined up and square, then with a felt tip pen trace on the covering of the stabilizers the edges of the fuse so that when you pull them out you know exactly where to cut the covering.

The engine mount came pre bolted onto the firewall. Should I trust this? The screws are held by what looks like toothed washers, and there's a piece of paper over them. I'll post up a picture.

The other thing I wanted to ask is, how do you thin out epoxy?

ON the inside of the firewall there is paper or tape over the blind nuts for the engine mounting bolts. I checked for tightness and installed the engine.
I flew my students Avistar Wed. evening. It's been along time since I flew an Avistar. This plane flies great.
A couple of tips when you get to the landing gear.
Once you see where the wheel collars are on the outside of the tires file a flat spot on the axle where the set screw will seat. After you have the wheels and collars on cut a 1/8 to 1/4" length of fuel tubing and slide it over the exposed axle. If the wheel collar does work loose the wheel will stay on the axle.

Tom

You can trust the kits bolts, but I've always swapped them out for cap head bolts. Especially around the engine mount. Round out a Philips screw, or experience the frustration of sliding out of a flat screw enough converts you real quick. There's a few ways to thin epoxy. If you want a thin coating of epoxy for fuel proofing, I've taken a hair dryer to warm up the epoxy, but you have to move fast because it will also speed up kick off for curing. Sometimes guys will use acetone, paint thinner, and Isopropyl Alchohol. You might want to do a search here in RCU on thinning epoxy. Lots has been written. Thinning epoxy can weaken it, so I suggest you be careful. OK for fuel proofing, but weakens it as an adhesive. Hope that helps.

Okay, but I will have to remove the engine mount to fuel proof right?

How will I get the blind nuts back on?

You leave the blind nuts in. The teeth of the blind nut should hold it in place on the back side. Do prevent epoxy from going into the threads. I've used pointed wood that I've screwed into them just to prevent epoxy from entering. If you're worried they will pop out, put some CA around the edges of the blind nut to hold it in.

I read that nail Polish can be used at a thread locker. Is this true?

Yeah, that's ok. I even have used aliphatic glue. Anything that inhibits a nut to vibrate free will work. What's nice about using actual threadlock is that when it comes time to loosen it, a little heat and it will come loose. But I would think nail polish would work. Run some tests.

I've used great planes, Fuel can fittings for my nitro gas. I checked for leaks, and when I tip over the bottle it leaks a bit. I've already tried puttying a little seran wrap around the fittings to stop the leaking, and it didn't work.

Would it be okay for me to put glue around the fittings, on the surface of the fuel bottle cap? Since I can just re use the cap, when I buy a new jug of fuel.

Are you talking about the one gallon jug you take to the field to fuel your airplane? Yes, I have modified a cap where I've taken off the outside safety cap portion and drilled holes for two 1/8 brass tubes that I soldered to a brass strip then epoxied the whole assembly into the to the top ledge of the remaining cap. Mark in some manner so you can identify the fuel line to the bottom from the vent. And I move it to the next new fuel gallon.

Wow, this is a pleasant surprise, the fuel compartment, and firewall have been fuel proofed for me already.


Does my motor have to be dead center, when I mount it?

As close as possible would be best. I have actually made plywood spacers that fit around my engines mounting lugs and get held in place with the clamping mounts screws. The engine will stay on center. You don't want to create any sidethrust.