Avistar Arrived
08-05-2010 | 04:08 PM
#26
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RE: Avistar Arrived
Okay guys, I've encountered another problem :|
The Futaba S3001 servo has a little rubber guard, to protect the servo wire as it comes out of the case, problem is, this guard makes it so the servo wire doesn't fit in the pre cut pocket. I can't cut the pocket bigger, because if I did, I would cut into the root for the wing Joiner.
What should I do? I circled the rubber guard in the pic, it's a faint circle, but you can see it.
Pic: http://s902.photobucket.com/albums/a...ent=Servo2.jpg
The Futaba S3001 servo has a little rubber guard, to protect the servo wire as it comes out of the case, problem is, this guard makes it so the servo wire doesn't fit in the pre cut pocket. I can't cut the pocket bigger, because if I did, I would cut into the root for the wing Joiner.
What should I do? I circled the rubber guard in the pic, it's a faint circle, but you can see it.
Pic: http://s902.photobucket.com/albums/a...ent=Servo2.jpg
08-05-2010 | 04:23 PM
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From: green bay,
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RE: Avistar Arrived
page 7 second paragraph down on the left in the manual says enlarge either hole if needed with a hobby knife. I had to do the exact same on my tower trainer and had no problems. Just take your time and make sure you have everything trimmed the way you want before the wing is epoxied together, this will make things much easier.
08-05-2010 | 04:27 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: airtime82
page 7 second paragraph down on the left in the manualsays enlarge either hole if needed with a hobby knife. I had to do the exact same on my tower trainer and had no problems. Just take your time and make sure you have everything trimmed the way you want before the wing is epoxied together, this will make things much easier.
page 7 second paragraph down on the left in the manualsays enlarge either hole if needed with a hobby knife. I had to do the exact same on my tower trainer and had no problems. Just take your time and make sure you have everything trimmed the way you want before the wing is epoxied together, this will make things much easier.
Does anyone think it's possible, to cut off the rubber piece?
08-05-2010 | 04:50 PM
#29
RE: Avistar Arrived
Probably the chance of nicking the wire is greater than the risk of cutting the slot a tad larger. If cutting that little causes the wing to fail, you had problems elsewhere.
08-05-2010 | 04:54 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: goirish
Probably the chance of nicking the wire is greater than the risk of cutting the slot a tad larger. If cutting that little causes the wing to fail, you had problems elsewhere.
Probably the chance of nicking the wire is greater than the risk of cutting the slot a tad larger. If cutting that little causes the wing to fail, you had problems elsewhere.
Idon't know how to approach the cutting either, I'd have to cut through 3 layers of ply.
08-05-2010 | 05:05 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
even if you get close to where that joiner is it will be reinforced on the opposite side with epoxy on the joiner and in between with epoxy where the wings meet.</p>
08-05-2010 | 05:15 PM
#33
RE: Avistar Arrived
Do you have a round file? If not take a piece of 1/4" dowel and wrap a piece of sandpaper around it, then saw it back and forth. You don't have to remove much. I'm sure you will get lots of answers on different ways to do it. Pick the one that you like the best.
08-05-2010 | 05:33 PM
#35
RE: Avistar Arrived
Guess I don't understand the down part. Looking at the picture and the part that you have circled the dowel looks like the way to go. Or if you have a hardware store you can get a 1/4" rat tail file. I personally don't like drilling as it always has a tendency to slip (at least mine do) It's called the OOOOPS maneuver. 
08-05-2010 | 05:40 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: goirish
Guess I don't understand the down part. Looking at the picture and the part that you have circled the dowel looks like the way to go. Or if you have a hardware store you can get a 1/4" rat tail file. I personally don't like drilling as it always has a tendency to slip (at least mine do) It's called the OOOOPS maneuver.
Guess I don't understand the down part. Looking at the picture and the part that you have circled the dowel looks like the way to go. Or if you have a hardware store you can get a 1/4" rat tail file. I personally don't like drilling as it always has a tendency to slip (at least mine do) It's called the OOOOPS maneuver.
Alright thanks, wish me luck?
08-05-2010 | 07:55 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
Oh, also, I didn't have to cut the mounting blocks for the aileron servo tray, it has full contact with the wing, without cutting for dehidral. Does that sound right? I checked if the wing halves were together as snugly as possible, no gap in between the wings, I can see the dehidral with my eyes, but the mounting blocks still fit perfect without any trimming.
08-05-2010 | 08:30 PM
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From: green bay,
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RE: Avistar Arrived
I dont think there is much dihedral in that planes wing so I guess its possible that they would only need to be trimmed a little if any.
</p>
08-05-2010 | 09:38 PM
#39
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RE: Avistar Arrived
Ditto, there is only about 5 degree of dihedral in the wing, the blocks will fit fine without much if any trimming.
Have you tried inserting the servo at an angle so the wire goes in first, then rock the opposite side of the servo down into position ?
Have you tried inserting the servo at an angle so the wire goes in first, then rock the opposite side of the servo down into position ?
08-06-2010 | 05:34 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
Before I glued the wing havles together, I went to test the servos, but when I turn on the tx and rx, and wiggle the sticks, the servo don't move.
Could this be because my batteries aren't fully charged?
Could this be because my batteries aren't fully charged?
08-06-2010 | 05:52 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
regarding cutting the hole for the servo. I usually only make a small v notch to allow the wire to sneak through. second concerning mounting blocks. Remember you need enough meat for the mounting screws to bite into. If the screws are only going into a thin balsa sheet they will pull out and then you will have a mess on your hands while flying. Also harden the servo mount holes with thin ca
08-06-2010 | 05:52 PM
#43
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: rgm762
batteries not charged
tx/rx not bound
servos not plugged in correctly, if your using extnesions or y harness
not plugged in the right channel on the rx
batteries not charged
tx/rx not bound
servos not plugged in correctly, if your using extnesions or y harness
not plugged in the right channel on the rx
Also, how do you fuel proof the firewall, and reinfornce it?
@rlipsett
I've done everything on your list
The problem is, since I have the rubber boot on the servo, I have to glue the halves together, and the mount on at the same time. I can't get the servo in if the halves are together.
Also, when it says 4drops of CA on the hinge, is it 2 on the top of the hinge and 2 on the bottom? Or will the CA just spread around the hinge by itself.
And will a sewing pin work, instead of a t pin?
08-06-2010 | 06:31 PM
#44
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RE: Avistar Arrived
You should be able to get the servo in and out, even after the halves are glued together.
You can fuel proof the fire wall by thinning out some epoxy and coating all the exposed wood. You can cheat by using CA, but in my opinion it does not last as long, thinned epoxy is probably the best.
The CA will wick into the hinges on its own, and 4 drops on each side would be a minimum.
A thick sewing pin might work, the goal is to keep enough gap between the two parts to allow the proper range of motion with out binding.
You can fuel proof the fire wall by thinning out some epoxy and coating all the exposed wood. You can cheat by using CA, but in my opinion it does not last as long, thinned epoxy is probably the best.
The CA will wick into the hinges on its own, and 4 drops on each side would be a minimum.
A thick sewing pin might work, the goal is to keep enough gap between the two parts to allow the proper range of motion with out binding.
08-06-2010 | 06:35 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: hugger-4641
You should be able to get the servo in and out, even after the halves are glued together.
You can fuel proof the fire wall by thinning out some epoxy and coating all the exposed wood. You can cheat by using CA, but in my opinion it does not last as long, thinned epoxy is probably the best.
The CA will wick into the hinges on its own, and 4 drops on each side would be a minimum.
A thick sewing pin might work, the goal is to keep enough gap between the two parts to allow the proper range of motion with out binding.
You should be able to get the servo in and out, even after the halves are glued together.
You can fuel proof the fire wall by thinning out some epoxy and coating all the exposed wood. You can cheat by using CA, but in my opinion it does not last as long, thinned epoxy is probably the best.
The CA will wick into the hinges on its own, and 4 drops on each side would be a minimum.
A thick sewing pin might work, the goal is to keep enough gap between the two parts to allow the proper range of motion with out binding.
I can't get the servo in and out after the halves are glued together
08-06-2010 | 06:41 PM
#46
RE: Avistar Arrived
I used a Dremel with a small drum sander attachment to enlarge the hole for the wing servo. It's kind of a pain, but by the time you get finished where the servo will go into that hole easy enough, you wind up with what I'd call an upside down question mark shape (?). And it takes considerable grinding away before you get it large enough. You shouldn't have to sand the wing joiner channel. But don't worry about opening up enough for the servo to fit in. I'm surprised Hobbico hasn't addressed this, but the model has been around for so long, they probably feel it doesn't need any changes. If you don't have a Dremel, just buy the little drum sander at the local Hardware store and put it in a drill. A little clumsy, but it should work.
The pushrod support I replaced with two popsicle sticks so that instead of holding the pushrods rigid, they can slide within a slot, which helps so that there is less binding. Because if you use that support, the pushrod will have to flex at those hole locations. With a slot, the pushrods can move without being hindered.
The pushrod support I replaced with two popsicle sticks so that instead of holding the pushrods rigid, they can slide within a slot, which helps so that there is less binding. Because if you use that support, the pushrod will have to flex at those hole locations. With a slot, the pushrods can move without being hindered.
08-06-2010 | 06:44 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: Tom Nied
I used a Dremel with a small drum sander attachment to enlarge the hole for the wing servo. It's kind of a pain, but by the time you get finished where the servo will go into that hole easy enough, you wind up with what I'd call an upside down question mark shape (?). And it takes considerable grinding away before you get it large enough. You shouldn't have to sand the wing joiner channel. But don't worry about opening up enough for the servo to fit in. I'm surprised Hobbico hasn't addressed this, but the model has been around for so long, they probably feel it doesn't need any changes. If you don't have a Dremel, just buy the little drum sander at the local Hardware store and put it in a drill. A little clumsy, but it should work.
The pushrod support I replaced with two popsicle sticks so that instead of holding the pushrods rigid, they can slide within a slot, which helps so that there is less binding. Because if you use that support, the pushrod will have to flex at those hole locations. With a slot, the pushrods can move without being hindered.
I used a Dremel with a small drum sander attachment to enlarge the hole for the wing servo. It's kind of a pain, but by the time you get finished where the servo will go into that hole easy enough, you wind up with what I'd call an upside down question mark shape (?). And it takes considerable grinding away before you get it large enough. You shouldn't have to sand the wing joiner channel. But don't worry about opening up enough for the servo to fit in. I'm surprised Hobbico hasn't addressed this, but the model has been around for so long, they probably feel it doesn't need any changes. If you don't have a Dremel, just buy the little drum sander at the local Hardware store and put it in a drill. A little clumsy, but it should work.
The pushrod support I replaced with two popsicle sticks so that instead of holding the pushrods rigid, they can slide within a slot, which helps so that there is less binding. Because if you use that support, the pushrod will have to flex at those hole locations. With a slot, the pushrods can move without being hindered.
Ye, I enlarged the hole so the servo can fit nicely, but I can't get it in and out if the wing halves are glued. What did I do wrong O_O
08-06-2010 | 06:54 PM
#48
RE: Avistar Arrived
You haven't done anything wrong, you just need to extend that enlargment up towards where the servo goes in. If you haven't glued the wings halves together yet, you should be able to see what material needs to sanded out so that the servo will go in once the wing is together. Keep grinding and blowing out the sawdust! Welcome to the Avistar club. ha.
08-06-2010 | 06:59 PM
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RE: Avistar Arrived
ORIGINAL: Tom Nied
You haven't done anything wrong, you just need to extend that enlargment up towards where the servo goes in. If you haven't glued the wings halves together yet, you should be able to see what material needs to sanded out so that the servo will go in once the wing is together. Keep grinding and blowing out the sawdust! Welcome to the Avistar club. ha.
You haven't done anything wrong, you just need to extend that enlargment up towards where the servo goes in. If you haven't glued the wings halves together yet, you should be able to see what material needs to sanded out so that the servo will go in once the wing is together. Keep grinding and blowing out the sawdust! Welcome to the Avistar club. ha.
I'm going to have to enlarge it by at least an inch
And it will end up to be a rectangle again, not the question mark shape, that I already have
