.28 in a funfactor? oh dear....
#226
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
thanks for noticing our plight normanski! it keeps us off the streets.
rolland - wahey! it works! nice one mate, i know u looked high and low for parts that would work, well done on sorting it, and thanks for sharing ur info, much appreciated. few qs...
no signs of rubbing or binding anywhere?
tmaxx hexes will also fit the swift shafts wont they? theres a 5mm hole in my tmaxx hexes...
any more details on how it handles with those wheels on? it looks the business with those.
what ratios are u running and did u notice any acceleration change due to any change in wheel weight?
hey u just need a big block now... cant have it up and running flawlessly now can we...?
rolland - wahey! it works! nice one mate, i know u looked high and low for parts that would work, well done on sorting it, and thanks for sharing ur info, much appreciated. few qs...
no signs of rubbing or binding anywhere?
tmaxx hexes will also fit the swift shafts wont they? theres a 5mm hole in my tmaxx hexes...
any more details on how it handles with those wheels on? it looks the business with those.
what ratios are u running and did u notice any acceleration change due to any change in wheel weight?
hey u just need a big block now... cant have it up and running flawlessly now can we...?
#227
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
rolland: just been checking ur parts list, pricing up etc, got a few qs there too, sorry mate...
knuckle arms - are u using 2 pairs of front knuckles to do the whole truck? i presume they come as a pair?
cvjs - u say u used 2, do they come as a pair for $16??? lol im guessing that theyre $16 per cvj?
and i also guess that the cups come as a pair?
sorry to hassle u with all those, just need to be sure. i also intend to use the pivot balls and cap screws from my tmaxx hubs, as they should work... shouldnt they?
thanks
forgot: on [link=http://www.racing-cars.com/products.asp?recnumber=37050]this[/link] webpage in the specs part it mentions revised diff cups and shafts. do u know if u got regular or upgraded ones?
knuckle arms - are u using 2 pairs of front knuckles to do the whole truck? i presume they come as a pair?
cvjs - u say u used 2, do they come as a pair for $16??? lol im guessing that theyre $16 per cvj?
and i also guess that the cups come as a pair?
sorry to hassle u with all those, just need to be sure. i also intend to use the pivot balls and cap screws from my tmaxx hubs, as they should work... shouldnt they?
thanks
forgot: on [link=http://www.racing-cars.com/products.asp?recnumber=37050]this[/link] webpage in the specs part it mentions revised diff cups and shafts. do u know if u got regular or upgraded ones?
#228
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No signs of rubbing or binding anywhere. I did have to clearance the arms a little bit and I am using the stock shocks to limit down travel. If you use a shock that allows more down travel you might have to limit the suspension somehow but the stock shocks work perfectly for this.
For hexes you will have to use the buggy hexes. Ofna or Swift it doesn't matter so far they seem to be the same parts. For the Romulins you don't really want to use the adapters anyhow.
Handling with the buggy wheels is unbelievable, night and day difference. The cornering ability of the truck is insane now. Before I could tap the brakes and slide it around corners but it turns way to sharp to do this. I will have to learn how to drive it all over again.
I am running the 11/14 steel HPI bell and the acceleration is greatly increased. I can reach top speed in half of the distance as before and I have the 2 speed adjusted so that the engine winds all of the out before it shifts. The wheels/tires are about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the MT2's. The are some cheap buggy wheels with Pro Lines Knuckle 2.0 tires. I cant' find my scale to give the weight differences right now.
Yes I will be using 2 sets of front knuckles to do the hole truck and they come in pairs.
The CVJ's come as 1 to a package I don't have a part number for the pair in a package. Still 36.00 dollars is still cheaper than the 37.00 for CEN's.
The diff cups come in pairs. I don't know if they are the upgraded ones or not but they are the ones I linked to.
My LHS didn't have the Swift pillow balls so I used T-Maxx pillow balls and caps. You will have to use some extra shock pistons (the round black, flat plastic pieces for shocks) as spacers in between the cap and the T-Maxx spacer/bushing.
I might go to a big block after I wear the OS .18 out.
rolland
For hexes you will have to use the buggy hexes. Ofna or Swift it doesn't matter so far they seem to be the same parts. For the Romulins you don't really want to use the adapters anyhow.
Handling with the buggy wheels is unbelievable, night and day difference. The cornering ability of the truck is insane now. Before I could tap the brakes and slide it around corners but it turns way to sharp to do this. I will have to learn how to drive it all over again.
I am running the 11/14 steel HPI bell and the acceleration is greatly increased. I can reach top speed in half of the distance as before and I have the 2 speed adjusted so that the engine winds all of the out before it shifts. The wheels/tires are about 3/4 of an inch shorter than the MT2's. The are some cheap buggy wheels with Pro Lines Knuckle 2.0 tires. I cant' find my scale to give the weight differences right now.
Yes I will be using 2 sets of front knuckles to do the hole truck and they come in pairs.
The CVJ's come as 1 to a package I don't have a part number for the pair in a package. Still 36.00 dollars is still cheaper than the 37.00 for CEN's.
The diff cups come in pairs. I don't know if they are the upgraded ones or not but they are the ones I linked to.
My LHS didn't have the Swift pillow balls so I used T-Maxx pillow balls and caps. You will have to use some extra shock pistons (the round black, flat plastic pieces for shocks) as spacers in between the cap and the T-Maxx spacer/bushing.
I might go to a big block after I wear the OS .18 out.
rolland
#230
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
uh-oh...
sand in a .28 in a funfactor... oh dear
i normally run my first half tank of the day with the shell off, just to keep an eye on all the bits and what have u... truddled round the beach, warming the engine up, then some bloody daytripper shouts "that aint very fast, its 5hit!!".... well... waddya expect me to do?
shut the kid right up, then flip after a 30+mph 30 yard wheelie - well u gotta havnt yer... it looked great, it really did. as i flipped it back over, the sand that fell from my cooling fins straight down the throat of my running engines, filterless carb, however, didnt look so good.
tighten those zip ties guys!!!
parts on standby, strip down soon - bummer...
sand in a .28 in a funfactor... oh dear
i normally run my first half tank of the day with the shell off, just to keep an eye on all the bits and what have u... truddled round the beach, warming the engine up, then some bloody daytripper shouts "that aint very fast, its 5hit!!".... well... waddya expect me to do?
shut the kid right up, then flip after a 30+mph 30 yard wheelie - well u gotta havnt yer... it looked great, it really did. as i flipped it back over, the sand that fell from my cooling fins straight down the throat of my running engines, filterless carb, however, didnt look so good.
tighten those zip ties guys!!!
parts on standby, strip down soon - bummer...
#233
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
wheelie bars? hmm, i still have the lower half of the rear mounted batt box on there, but sometimes it gains too much momentum for that to help...
giggling? gee thanks azzman, ill remember that - did u want some jt shock towers by any chance? ha - tough!
giggling? gee thanks azzman, ill remember that - did u want some jt shock towers by any chance? ha - tough!
#234
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Make the wheelie bars long enough so that they will stop the truck from flipping over. But the added weight to the back of the truck could possibly cause it to wheelie even more.
You said that you were having trouble with your half shafts. Have you thought about running buggy wheels? You can use the Romulin adapters on the T-Maxx hexes and they weigh 130+grams less than the stock MT2 wheels and tires. I am using Racers Edge white spoke buggy wheels and Proline Nuckle 2.0 tires and they weigh 133 grams less than the stock MT2 wheels/tires. The weight savings alone would take alot of stress off of the half shafts.
rolland
You said that you were having trouble with your half shafts. Have you thought about running buggy wheels? You can use the Romulin adapters on the T-Maxx hexes and they weigh 130+grams less than the stock MT2 wheels and tires. I am using Racers Edge white spoke buggy wheels and Proline Nuckle 2.0 tires and they weigh 133 grams less than the stock MT2 wheels/tires. The weight savings alone would take alot of stress off of the half shafts.
rolland
#235
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
yea its higher traction surfaces that cause me half shaft probs - ie grass and tarmac.
buggy wheels - i have been keeping an eye on the bay for a cheap set to try. gotta pull this engine to bits to check what needs doing next. there would be a massive weight saving over the tmaxx wheels, like u say, i will try them as soon as i justify more outlay...
my crx has just died on me tho, need to sort that before anything else. ill let u know re the .28 asap mate.
buggy wheels - i have been keeping an eye on the bay for a cheap set to try. gotta pull this engine to bits to check what needs doing next. there would be a massive weight saving over the tmaxx wheels, like u say, i will try them as soon as i justify more outlay...
my crx has just died on me tho, need to sort that before anything else. ill let u know re the .28 asap mate.
#236
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If it has good compression it might have an air leak or something pluging the carb.
Whats nice about the buggy wheels is that you can get tires for the tarmac as well as for off road and they are cheap. I think I paid 5.00 a pair for the wheels and 20.00 a pair for the tires.
rolland
Whats nice about the buggy wheels is that you can get tires for the tarmac as well as for off road and they are cheap. I think I paid 5.00 a pair for the wheels and 20.00 a pair for the tires.
rolland
#237
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
lol - i was confused for a sec there! i meant my 1:1 honda crx has died, not my os cvr-x! ha, thanks for the effort tho mate!
anybody got any test looms for a honda by any chance?
intermitant ignition faults are sooo much fun...
anybody got any test looms for a honda by any chance?
intermitant ignition faults are sooo much fun...
#239
Poor Judgement. I was reading over this post again and had a couple questions. Did you use the [link=http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=qhnrfudcwvaaopgtlfmqghuouocntt rs&part_id=1816]New Era kit [/link] to mount the .28 in your chassis? Also, did you have to modify the carburetor to get the linkage on the correct side? From the first post with the original picture of the SH .28 it looks like the linkage hookup is on the wrong side but later pictures look like you may have moved it. This upgrade is very interesting. How many others have squeezed a .28 into the Fun Factor chassis?
#240
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i didnt use the new era kit, i used some cen .21+ engine mounts, i forget the part number, but it should be in this thread somewhere. i got them from [link=http://www.asiaexs.com/index.asp]here[/link]. they have some cheap .28s left on ebay, item number 5998181946, best to email them. delivery to me in the uk has been very slow from them tho, and they did miss some parts off my last order... still waiting a good month later... the .28 came with a fairly large nasty scratch on the casing too, also their packaging leaves something to be desired - pipe arrived dented, and got stung badly by customs - however, for price, they are really pretty good. just be warned if ordering from them. its not just me either...
yep, i turned the carb around to make the linkage easier to work without interfering with the brake linkage, as i have lowered my throttle servo. also i wanted to put back my chassis stiffening rod, which is gonna be tricky with this engine in, due to the carbs position and size affecting the linkage.
i know that antwar has a .28 in his, but retained the cen wheels and driveshafts and as such hasnt had any spur or pinion issues, mind u, dont forget i also run on the beach, he doesnt. sand is a terrible thing for hard working gears... i know i could run it elsewhere, but my beach/seawall/wasteland bash spot is too good to resist.
yep, i turned the carb around to make the linkage easier to work without interfering with the brake linkage, as i have lowered my throttle servo. also i wanted to put back my chassis stiffening rod, which is gonna be tricky with this engine in, due to the carbs position and size affecting the linkage.
i know that antwar has a .28 in his, but retained the cen wheels and driveshafts and as such hasnt had any spur or pinion issues, mind u, dont forget i also run on the beach, he doesnt. sand is a terrible thing for hard working gears... i know i could run it elsewhere, but my beach/seawall/wasteland bash spot is too good to resist.
#241
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From: Cleethorpes, UNITED KINGDOM
ha - the motor is still ok, no sand damage it seems.
did the tower to tower reinforcing with some m3 rod and used a cen radio post as an adjuster. man, even with my dodgy tower it works wonders, i was expecting some flex in the towers. my brake seats threads are pretty dead, so i needed something extra in there.
picked up some ofna adjustable engine mounts off ebay for 50p, gonna see if i can use these to make the ofna clutch bell work better.
i left the head shim out on reassembly to see how it would run, lol - its picked up quite a bit... im still running the cen 14/18 bell on gen spurs, it doesnt wheelie too much from a standstill, but once its rolling it pulls them up quite happily. with the head shim in, it would only occasionally wheelie. now where the hell is 2nd gear....? arg....
did the tower to tower reinforcing with some m3 rod and used a cen radio post as an adjuster. man, even with my dodgy tower it works wonders, i was expecting some flex in the towers. my brake seats threads are pretty dead, so i needed something extra in there.
picked up some ofna adjustable engine mounts off ebay for 50p, gonna see if i can use these to make the ofna clutch bell work better.
i left the head shim out on reassembly to see how it would run, lol - its picked up quite a bit... im still running the cen 14/18 bell on gen spurs, it doesnt wheelie too much from a standstill, but once its rolling it pulls them up quite happily. with the head shim in, it would only occasionally wheelie. now where the hell is 2nd gear....? arg....
#243
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The Ofna mounts will work (assuming that they are adjustable) but the bolt spacing is to far apart. You will have to drill new holes in the mount and tap them for the bolts. I also believe that the Ofna bolts are larger so you might have to widen the slots on the chassis plate.
Find a wide open spot before you try for second gear or you might end up ordering more parts. Remember the tree carnage.
rolland
Find a wide open spot before you try for second gear or you might end up ordering more parts. Remember the tree carnage.
rolland
#244
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aye - i can get hold of some metric taps no probs, and u are right regards the hole spacing and size etc, couldnt let them go at 50p tho! they are a lot more substantial than the cen 21 mounts and should help with the chassis flex when i hit the throttle...
hmmm i havent forgotten the last incident... ahem... i will use the beach in my search for 2nd gear i think... oh it wasnt a tree by the way - it was a large bill board advertising a miniature railway... i did dent it quite well tho...
hmmm i havent forgotten the last incident... ahem... i will use the beach in my search for 2nd gear i think... oh it wasnt a tree by the way - it was a large bill board advertising a miniature railway... i did dent it quite well tho...
#246
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didnt see that post sneak in there rolland... plenty of trains near me mate, right by the beach in fact, trouble is theres never one when u need it, so i had to make do. i could get a pic of the pic of a train with a dent in it, or is that just going a wee bit too far?
re these 1/8 buggy wheels... got some here, yes they have got tyres on too... man they look a bit silly after being used to seeing the big wheels (and tyres) on there. but anyway, they are an excuse to get out before the winter really kicks in here (eh scouser?) i see what u mean about the weight difference, 2nd gear could well be more reliably found with these on, its a bit indifferent with the big uns.
what ratios and general suspension setup did u find worked well with them rolland? and what surface was that on?
will have to guess a bit of a conversion for suspension due to my different shocks n springs etc, but was just wondering before i took it out.
...yep... i still reckon it looks silly - maybe its the shell.... aint postin a pic til it looks right
re these 1/8 buggy wheels... got some here, yes they have got tyres on too... man they look a bit silly after being used to seeing the big wheels (and tyres) on there. but anyway, they are an excuse to get out before the winter really kicks in here (eh scouser?) i see what u mean about the weight difference, 2nd gear could well be more reliably found with these on, its a bit indifferent with the big uns.
what ratios and general suspension setup did u find worked well with them rolland? and what surface was that on?
will have to guess a bit of a conversion for suspension due to my different shocks n springs etc, but was just wondering before i took it out.
...yep... i still reckon it looks silly - maybe its the shell.... aint postin a pic til it looks right
#247
Yeah I know what you mean about the weather mate, getting colder already! I don't think the Savage is getting any hibernation this winter though, the local track is running a winter series that it will get entered into if CEN don't reply to my question about the 2wd Stadium truck. (Which means the Savage is going to be entered ino the series as CEN don't seem to like my questions for some reason!)
#248
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i gave up with cen once before - either have a support forum or dont bother at all is my thought.
its not just your questions mate, anything in any way slightly technical is ignored or they get it wrong- where are jeremys findings on 1/8 springs? where the hell is jeremy for that matter? what was [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2332765/anchors_2332765/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#2332765]this[/link] all about? i gave up... they dont know their own products? and as for [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2177973/anchors_2177973/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#2177973]this[/link] farce... wth?
and [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3054023/anchors_3054023/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#3054023]here[/link]
and [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3327394/anchors_3327394/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#3327394]here....[/link]
i thought they had things straightened out now, its certainly hard keeping any continuation of threads and ideas, projects or whatever if they keep putting someone else on once in a while too, especially if they are giving out false info without realising it. i wont mention that nasty thread that cen really werent pleased about, but its not forgotten just cos it got deleted.
nothing personal to anyone at cen, its just... well... they should either have a support forum with cen support (thats accurate) or dont bother, it can give a false impression otherwise, and end up backfiring on them.
rant over, but man they do piss me off sometimes - try askin em for some jt shock towers...
but yea mate - freezin... get the savage out there - cant have the cold weather ruining that os engine!!
seriously tho - have u read anything about running the engine in much colder temps than normal?
its not just your questions mate, anything in any way slightly technical is ignored or they get it wrong- where are jeremys findings on 1/8 springs? where the hell is jeremy for that matter? what was [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2332765/anchors_2332765/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#2332765]this[/link] all about? i gave up... they dont know their own products? and as for [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2177973/anchors_2177973/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#2177973]this[/link] farce... wth?
and [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3054023/anchors_3054023/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#3054023]here[/link]
and [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3327394/anchors_3327394/mpage_1/key_FAO/anchor/tm.htm#3327394]here....[/link]
i thought they had things straightened out now, its certainly hard keeping any continuation of threads and ideas, projects or whatever if they keep putting someone else on once in a while too, especially if they are giving out false info without realising it. i wont mention that nasty thread that cen really werent pleased about, but its not forgotten just cos it got deleted.
nothing personal to anyone at cen, its just... well... they should either have a support forum with cen support (thats accurate) or dont bother, it can give a false impression otherwise, and end up backfiring on them.
rant over, but man they do piss me off sometimes - try askin em for some jt shock towers...
but yea mate - freezin... get the savage out there - cant have the cold weather ruining that os engine!!
seriously tho - have u read anything about running the engine in much colder temps than normal?
#249
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The setup that I'm using with the buggy wheels is, 1/8 buggy front shocks on the rear with the stock Traxxis black springs and 40wt oil. On the front I am using the stock shocks and springs with 40wt oil. The gearing that I am using is the stock MT2 11/14 bell but I think I am going to change that to a 12/15 or a 13/16 bell. I have ran the truck with a single speed 13 tooth bell and I really liked they way it ran so I am probaly going to try the 13/16 bell first. With the OS engine 11/14 is really to low.
I primarily run on a combination of dirt/gravel, grass, and asphalt. In grass I have to slow down considerably before sharp turns or it will roll.
Keep in mind that my steering geometry has changed when I switched over to buggy steering nuckles, wheel hexes, and cvj's. For the better I think.
I am afraid it is going to look silly no matter what you do, although it does look a little better with the body lowered as far a possible. It migh look better with a rally body on it.
I think I might try the XTM XLB buggy wheels and see if it looks/handles better.
Lets not get all that upset over CEN's lack of respones lately. If they do what they have always done in the past they will be back to posting again in a month or two saying how sorry they are and then they will stick around until we get used to them and then they will dissapear.
They have always done this and I personally don't expect them to change.
CEN should help with the shock tower situation. Mainly because they promote them for their kits and they have even given them a part number. Ehobbies should as well. But I am not going to hold my breath waiting for them to get involved.
As far as cold weather running I know there are old posts from last winter on RCU about it and there used to be a really good write up on wildhobbies but unfortunately all of that info is gone.
rolland
I primarily run on a combination of dirt/gravel, grass, and asphalt. In grass I have to slow down considerably before sharp turns or it will roll.
Keep in mind that my steering geometry has changed when I switched over to buggy steering nuckles, wheel hexes, and cvj's. For the better I think.
I am afraid it is going to look silly no matter what you do, although it does look a little better with the body lowered as far a possible. It migh look better with a rally body on it.
I think I might try the XTM XLB buggy wheels and see if it looks/handles better.
Lets not get all that upset over CEN's lack of respones lately. If they do what they have always done in the past they will be back to posting again in a month or two saying how sorry they are and then they will stick around until we get used to them and then they will dissapear.
They have always done this and I personally don't expect them to change.
CEN should help with the shock tower situation. Mainly because they promote them for their kits and they have even given them a part number. Ehobbies should as well. But I am not going to hold my breath waiting for them to get involved.
As far as cold weather running I know there are old posts from last winter on RCU about it and there used to be a really good write up on wildhobbies but unfortunately all of that info is gone.
rolland
#250
I don't really know what the engine settings should be in the cold. I am just going to start it up and fiddle with it until it doesn't stall!!
Hey that Matrix link was my first post in here!! .......so many memories!!
I know what you mean mate, I really don't expect an official response any more. Just aswell the forum members are so clued up and helpful.
Hey that Matrix link was my first post in here!! .......so many memories!!
I know what you mean mate, I really don't expect an official response any more. Just aswell the forum members are so clued up and helpful.



