If you've built any kits, these should be a piece of cake... There are tabs on the formers that go in slots in fuse sides, so alignment is automatic. The only part that would be considered at all hard is servo placement and motor mounting. but that is pretty easy to do.

Don

These are some pretty nice alternatives to the standard "kits" and "arfs" available to us.

CGr.

Don has AMAZING choices!

Brian

These planes sound really cool.  A great way to learn sheeting and possibly use retracts. When do you expect to start shipping.  I am looking forward to flight reports.  Would a Fox 15 be good  or a Magnum 25?  What is your target engine?

Can't really tell from the small avatar, but are you the Pepsi skywriter pilot ?

Personally, I think that 25's are overkill on 40" models unless you are looking to fly a missile. If you are, then possibly using a light 25 such as the Norvel's (back in production now) might be a good option. They also have 15's. Otherwise I would think that any good 15 to 21 would be more than ample power. Pipe the 15 if you are so inclined or use a muffled 21.

Speaking of 15's and 21's, the two NovaRossi RE engines below would be scary choices!

David.

Yes, the Mach One is now ready, less canopy...

They will start shipping next week, (TM, Banshee, and Mach One) since I am out of town visiting daughters and granddaughters this weekend for Thanksgiving, and will be back at shop Wednesday.

Yes a .25 is overkill, but you know how people are. A .15 is as big as I would go, for weight reasons.

You all have a great Thanksgiving...

Don

Good question.. I certainly hope so.. I just bought one. I plan on tail dragger without retracts and electric power.

CGr.

CGr,

While I may be speaking out of turn since I'm not Don, here are my 2 cents:

if you've built a couple of kits before, these will go together very easily I suspect. With Don having simplified their construction as well as having laser cut them, they will be "quick build" in nature. Some shaping of wood may be required on the fuse using sanding blocks. If you've never built a foam wing before, then these are also perhaps the ideal first wing to do so. The trickiest part of the build will likely be landing gear block and engine installation - mostly due to the smaller size of the models.

David.

Pretty accurate, David

CNC cut, not laser, so no burn, but the same from the builder's standpoint. The tabs on the formers go into slots in the fuse sides, so easy alignment.

Typical build sequence (simplified):
1) Glue tri-stock to fuse sides
2) Glue formers to one side of fuse, be sure they are perpendicular (do not install firewall yet).
3) Glue second side to formers.
4) Sand tri-stock as needed, bring rear of fuse together and glue. Do same for firewall.
5) install top sheeting, and sand top of fuse to shape shown on plans.
6) cut 1/8" wide slot in fuse top for fin.
7) Glue in Fin and Stab, making sure fin is glued to top of stab.
8) install servos, control rods, radio gear, and motor/engine etc, before installing bottom sheeting.
9) Glue bottom sheeting and sand to shape shown on plans.

10) Sheet wings, ad LE, TE, & wing tips, and add ailerons and servos

11 Cover and fly.

I said simpified, but as yu see, they will be straight forward to build.

Tips and examples will be added to web site as I get them...

Don

No,
My friend took that picture of me when I was test flying my last Pitts Special and posted it as a Face Book avatar. I just used it here too.
I'm just an airline pilot.
I like that Pepsi Skywriter, it's a Travel Aire I think.
Chris...

Can anyone post a decent electric set-up for one of these little Mach 1's? Please?
Chris...

I built two similarly-sized Gulfstream II (Daddy Rabbit derivative, I think). Both were powered identically - E-Flite Six-Series 2000Kv (Mega 16/15/4 equivalent) on 3S 2200's, 40A ESC, 7x5 prop, both right about 28oz. Mine was built with fixed gear, my son's with retracts. I still haven't put mine on radar, but we got Ian's on the straight and level at just over 100 MPH with the gear up. Hopefully this winter I'll build another - the kit is sitting on my workbench, waiting in line.

That should be pretty close to what you're looking for with these models.

Andy

Sure thing Chris,

this is the setup I used on a 40" span Tiporare. About 250W input power on an 8x6 thin electric APC - more than ample power.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL6z7SxlxUc[/youtube]

The only problem is torque caused by the large prop when hand launching (the Pico has no landing gear). Going down to a 7" prop would be preferable but the available power is less. An alternative would be to use one of the various high KV inrunners capable of turning 6" and 7" props at decent revs (e.g. E-Flite Six series). A number are also available on sites such as Hobby King.

Below are the pictures of the gear used:
[ul][*] DualSky XM-2834CA-6 (~1500 KV)[*] Castle TB 36 AMP ESC[*] TP 2100 Pro Lite's
[/ul]
Batteries in the 1600 to 1800 mAh capacity are preferable to keep the model light. You may even be able to use 1350's if you are very conservative with the throttle.

Hope this helps, David.

By the way,

in the video you can hear that there is an issue with the bearings right after the second start up (middle of video). I bought two such motors and mentioned to the dealer that there was a problem with the bearings on one. They sent me two additional motors free of charge. The one shown will probably end up making a decent fan in the shop . The other two remaining are in need of a home. I was going to build a 42" span Tsunami (which I actually started cutting) but now there are more options!

They are rather inexpensive - $36 I believe.

David.

Wow David, I'm impressed with the braking action of that setup! Stops right now! Does it stop that quickly with a prop attached also?

RG

Thanks for the info on electrics guys!
Happy Thanksgiving...
Chris...

Hey Ralph,

oh yea, electric motors are extremely flexible that way. You drop the throttle stick to zero and it will just stop like that. In fact, the tricky thing is to get an idle. Startup tends to be abrupt unlike a glow engine. With modern radios though you can set up throttle curves as well as kill switches so that you can have a soft start with a click or two of throttle and then just have the motor idle at low throttle. If you want to stop the motor, then you just flick a switch or if you like you can also use the trim lever like we used to on glow engines before computer radios.

It behaves no differently with a prop on it except that it blows a heck of a lot of air. It's rather amazing actually that a little motor like that with some flat batteries can have the plane leave your hand vertically upon flooring the throttle stick. At 300W and 40 oz, the model is quite grossly overpowered.

David.

Hi dfturnock, Know this thread is about the baby pattern planes, but did visit your web site & saw the many Bill Evans Simictar listings. I have old plans for the Senior Slo Motion I'd like to build & wonder if the foam core wings &\or short kit might be available? Your time is appreciated & hope your having a great T-day

Mike Brennan T-man49 in Alabama

As far as the Banshee canopy goes, it is very easy to scratch build, like the original magazine plans show. You need a flat piece for the top, shaped like an elongated teardrop or oval with one end cut square asross, then a wrap-around horseshoe clear plastic piece.

Yep, that is what is on the page... Works great.

Don

Wife & I are in Houston with our 2 daughters and 4 grand-daughters for Thanksgiving Will be back in shop Tuesday.

During breaks here have almost finished Baby Curare and Baby Nutcracker, and answering mails. Both planes are looking good so far.

Have a great Thanksgiving weekend!!

Don
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You're Awesome Don!!!!!

Happy holidays man.

Brian Lundberg

Blue Angel could be a great addition to this collection.

Have this picture of BA with .25 looks great !!!

That would be a great one to do. Just need the plans. Anyone have them?.

Don